Ford spark plugs - Ford Triton motor

[XV1100SE]

I have a 2007 Ford Mustang GT and last Sunday went to change the spark plugs. The first one went well....second and seventh not so well. The two plugs started turning the same as the others but when I had the plugs unscrewed and lifted them out, the bottom part of the plug was still in the plug hole.

 

I did a search on a Mustang forum and breaking plugs is a common problem. You can see from the picture (centre plug is a full plug, the other two are what came out when they broke). The problem with the Ford plugs is they are a two part plug. They separate between the two parts, leaving the bottom part in the spark plug hole.

 

When the plugs broke I figured I was screwed and would be facing an expensive repair. When I found out that it was a common problem I found out that there is a solution to removing the plug without tearing in to the motor. Lisle makes a spark plug removal tool. It is such a common problem that they had reason to make a tool.

 

When I searched for "spark plug removal" I found several hits on Kijiji for people that offer a service to come to the vehicle and for a flat rate of $125 they'll remove as many plugs you have that are broken. Cost of the tool is $60 US/$100 CDN. I watched the You Tube videos and it looked easy. So...I ordered the tool. Ordered it on Sunday thru Amazon and received it Wednesday afternoon.

 

So....a word of warning. If you have a Ford vehicle with a Triton motor, replace the Ford plugs with a one piece plug. I only had two options on a plug. One was an "E3" but the Stang forums say they are crap. The other option was a Champion plug at $23 CDN EACH. $200 with tax plus $100 for the tool, and my plugs are replaced.

 

[cowpuc]

I wonder if Auto Zone rents the tool? I wonder if a little anti-seize on the threads during the last plug change may have helped in the removal process? I wonder what in the wild world of hash pipes the engineer who designed those plugs was smokin the day he did that job?

 

Seriously XV - GOOD ON YA FOR GETTING HER DONE!!!! BUT WOW - Right there with ya on the cost of admission on that one brother:scared:

[cecdoo]

Just curious Don, how exactly does the removal tool work? Same as an ez out?

 

Craig

[XV1100SE]

Lots of videos on YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=lisle+spark+plug+removal+tool

 

Watch this one -

[BlueSky]

This is a standard issue with the 5.4L F150s. You need to run a bottle of chevron techron in the fuel for about 3 tanks to clean up the carbon in the combustion chamber. Then, spray some penetrating oil around the plugs and let it sit for a while before attempting to remove them. The recommendation from the f150online site is to use a small battery operated impact to gently unscrew them. Also, the latest recommendation is to warm up the engine slightly before removing. The barrel of the plug is what corrodes and sticks to the deep hole the plugs are in. It's not the threads that stick. Put anti-seize on the barrels of the new plugs to facilitate the next removal, not on the threads. Another recommendation is to thoroughly clean the holes before installing new plugs.

[XV1100SE]

I did warm the engine to operating temperature. Used the compressor to blow away the dirt/grime away from the area around the plugs. Gave the plug a shot of Liquid Wrench and let it sit for 20 minutes. Turned the plug about 1/4 turn and then gave them a shot of carb/choke cleaner and let that sit 20 minutes.

 

The carbon build up or corrosion that around the lower shaft locks it in place. Spraying penetrant on the top end of the plug doesn't do it. Some info on the forums suggests Seafoam.

 

I put nickel anti-seize on the threads and shaft of the new plugs. The trick is to use one piece plugs....NOT the two piece Ford ones. Maybe they want you to remove it in two pieces.

[djh3]

Stay with motorcraft plugs. Its a Ford thats what should be there OEM. Anti seize is your friend. My instructor I'm working with has like 19 yr as a Frod tech. Says its a common problem on the F-150, so any motor like that would be the same.

[BlueSky]

This particular plug problem affects the 2004 thru 2008 5.4s and maybe some of the 4.6s. The Ford V8s (the 2 valve engines) from 97 thru 2003 tend to blow out plugs if they aren't tightened properly. There is only about 4 threads holding them in and Ford originally recommended 8 ft lbs of torque for them. 28 ft lbs is the current recommendation and they wont' blow out. Some of the 4.6s were 2V after 2003 but I'm not sure exactly when they were changed to 3V. The same is true for the V10s those years. 2Vs blew out plugs. 3Vs had sticking breaking plugs.

[XV1100SE]

Stay with motorcraft plugs. Its a Ford thats what should be there OEM. Anti seize is your friend. My instructor I'm working with has like 19 yr as a Frod tech. Says its a common problem on the F-150, so any motor like that would be the same.

 

Motorcraft are still a two piece design though. Going to a one piece design plug reduces or eliminates the possibility of a plug breaking.

[Marcarl]

Leave it to Ford,,, at least Chevy only breaks off the exhaust manifold bolts,,,, easy fix,, just take it to the mechanic and $900 later all is good!!

[Flyinfool]

Ford must have had another "better idea"

[V7Goose]

Man, that's some ugly stuff. I'm a Ford man, and I'm really sorry to see Ford putting out such a stupid design! I haven't really kept up with current details of their products, but what I have seen on the new motors has not struck me as good stuff. this info just enhances that impression. Glad I stuck with that 22 year old F250 - looks like I want to hold onto it for another 22 years!

Goose

[BlueSky]

Most 04-08 F150 V8 owners use SP-515 plugs. They are less prone to breaking than the OE plugs.

This particular plug problem was fixed in 2009.

 

As far as brands, I was a hard core chevy guy back in the early days, 60's. I wouldn't own anything else. I loved those small block and big block hot rods. I owned a 56 Chevy convertible, 59 Impala coupe, 65 chevelle 300hp, 4speed, posi, 69 ss396 chevelle, 4 speed. But, later in life my experience has been much better with Fords. In fact I have had so many problems with GM products that now I have a phobia against anything GM. The bailout didn't help my opinion of GM either. Maybe they got their act together again. I hope so. The taxpayers invested what 25 billion in GM that we didn't and wont' get back.

 

The 97 thru 03 F150s are probably as reliable as any trucks ever sold. I bought a new 2000. In 105k miles, it only needed one axle seal. And now have a used 2002. No plug issues at all.

[XV1100SE]

Just found a list (because there is a class action lawsuit begun in 2011)... 4.6 and 5.4 Triton motors :

[h=3]Ford Models included in the Ford Spark Plug Class Action Lawsuit[/h]The “class” for this lawsuit would include owners of the following Ford, Lincoln and Mercury models:

Ford

 

• 2005-2008 Mustang
  
• 2004-2008 F-150
  
• 2005-2008 Expedition, F-Super Duty
  
• 2006-2008 Explorer
  
• F-53 Motorhome Chassis
  
• 2007-2008 Explorer Sport Trac
  

Lincoln

 

• 2005-2008 Navigator
  
• 2006-2008 Mark LT
  

Mercury

 

• 2006-2008 Mountaineer
  

[XV1100SE]

I'm happy with my Mustang but if I wanted to replace plugs and coils it would be $1,000. Good thing the computer (check engine light) tells you which coil has failed so you can do them one at a time.

 

Anyone wants to read the class action info - https://www.lawyersandsettlements.com/blog/are-you-part-of-ford-spark-plug-class-action-read-on.html

 

Also - http://www.aa1car.com/library/ford_broken_spark_plug_problem.htm

"Watch Out for Ford Motorcraft Two-piece 16mm "High Thread" Spark Plugs That Break!

The original equipment Motorcraft brand spark plugs that were factory installed in many late model (2004 to 2008) Ford trucks with 5.4L V8 and 6.8L V10 engines, 2005 to 2007 Mustang GT 4.6 & 5.4L V8 engines, and 2008 Mustang GT models built prior to 11/30/07) can break when you attempt to remove them!

Vehicles with these spark plugs include: 2004 - 2008 Ford F150

2005 - 2008 Ford Expedition and F-Super Duty

2005 - 2007 (and 2008 models built to 11/30/07) Ford Mustang GT with 4.6L V8 engine (uses 3L3E ignition coils)

2005 - 2008 Lincoln Navigator

2006 - 2008 Ford Explorer

2006 - 2008 Lincoln Mark LT

2006 - 2008 Mercury Mountaneer

2007 - 2008 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

F-53 Motorhome chassis

The Motorcraft PZT 2FE Platinum spark plugs have a crimped lower electrode shell that becomes coated with carbon, causing it to stick in the cylinder head. Rust and corrosion on the lower plug shell can also cause it to stick. When you attempt to unscrew the plug, the lower shell breaks off and stays in the head. Removing the broken shell requires a special Ford, Snap-On or Lisle extractor tool. Worse yet, if any shell or electrode fragments fall into the cylinder and can't be fished out, you may have to remove the cylinder head to get the debris out.

Many experts recommend replacing the original equipment Motorcraft spark plugs before the get too many miles on them (over 40,000 miles). Replacing the plugs at low mileage will reduce the risk of them sticking and breaking. Waiting until the original equipment spark plugs have 100,000 miles on them is asking for trouble!

 

.....Here's another thought. If you are planning on selling or trading your Ford truck or Mustang within the next couple of years (and it is running fine now), leave the spark plugs alone and let the next owner worry about changing them. The risk is if you attempt to change high mileage plugs and break off several plugs (which commonly happens), those spark plugs could cost you a lot of money. Many Ford dealerships are charging $600 to several thousand dollars to change the spark plugs on the 5.4L, 4.6L and 6.8L engines that have the two-piece Motorcraft spark plugs. Why? Because the plugs usually stick and break, and it takes a lot of time and effort to extract the debris from the spark plug holes. In some cases, it may even be necessary to remove the cylinder heads to complete their repair."

Edited December 4, 2015 by XV1100SE

[XV1100SE]

Continuing from the aa1car post :

 

"Ford's Technical Service Bulletin 08-7-6

Ford Technical Service Bulletin 08-7-6 covers the recommended removal procedure for these spark plugs, as well as the repair procedure if one or more plugs break ( Click Here to View Ford TSB 08-7-6). NOTE: TSB 08-7-6 supersedes the earlier TSB 06-5-9 that also covered the same subject. The difference is that the newest TSB says to remove the spark plugs when the engine is COLD (at room temperature). The older TSB said to remove the spark plugs when the engine was WARM (not COLD and not HOT). They theory was that a warm engine creates a little more clearance between the plug shell and cylinder head. But removing spark plugs on a warm engine with aluminum cylinder heads also increases the risk of damaging the threads in the spark plug hole, too.

How to Remove the Motorcraft Spark Plugs So They Do Not Break

First, make sure the engine is at room temperature (COLD).

 

Loosen each spark plug about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Then Stop!

 

Spray some WD-40 or penetrating oil into each spark plug well. Allow the oil to soak into the threads so it can loosen any carbon or corrosion around the electrode shell. Wait at least 15 minutes, or longer (overnight is recommended if the plugs have over 80,000 miles on them).

 

After the penetrating oil has had time to work, slowly loosen each spark plug, applying no more than 35 ft. lbs of torque to your wrench. If a plug sticks, retighten it half a turn, apply more penetrating oil, wait, then try again. The plugs may squeal and groan, but will hopefully come out without breaking.

Removing carbon from inside the combustion chamber prior to changing the spark plugs can also reduce the risk of the spark plugs sticking and breaking. Using Top Tier gasoline or adding a fuel system cleaner (such as Chevron Techron or equivalent) to your fuel tank regularly can help reduce carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber. If you engine has a lot of miles on it, and/or is using oil, using a Top Cleaner treatment to remove carbon prior to changing the spark plugs is highly recommended.

If You Break a Spark Plug

If you break a spark plug, see the Ford TSB 08-7-6 to see Ford's method for removing the broken electrode shell from the cylinder head.

 

Here is a short video on how to use the NAPA Ford Spark Plug Extractor SER 4664

.

Lisle Tool also sells a spark plug repair tool for these applications (part number 65600). For details about this tool, Click Here. To see the instructions on how to use the Lisle tool to remove a broken spark plug insulator shell, Click Here.

 

The Lisle Tool is available online at Amazon and from Snap-On tool distributors.

Spark Plug Installation

Do NOT reinstall the same Motorcraft spark plugs (PZT 2FE Platinum). Replace the original equipment spark plugs with one-piece spark plugs from Champion Spark Plugs(part number 7989), or similar spark plugs from NGK, Denso or Bosch. Several aftermarket performance companies (including Roush) also sell a stronger one-piece replacement spark plug for these engines that won't break. Note: the Champion spark plugs require a larger 5/8-inch socket to install (the original Motorcraft plugs have a 9/16-inch hex shell).

 

Apply nickel anti-seize to the outer surface of the lower electrode shell (the smooth part) before installing the plugs.

 

Tighten the new spark plugs to 25 ft. lbs (34 Nm).

 

Replacing the rubber boot that fits between the coil and spark plug is also recommended to prevent arcing that can cause misfires."

Edited December 4, 2015 by XV1100SE

[djh3]

My theory is that Leslie or KD tools actually engineered the plugs. That way they could sell some special tools and make money.

[BlueSky]

What about Ford? They charge hundreds of dollars to change these plugs. There aren't any perfect vehicles out there though. They all have some issue. The 2 valve engines like I have in my 02 are very hard to get to and the labor charge is about $240 to change out the plugs. I changed mine myself at 119,000 miles. I took my time and spent many hours doing it. The engine is mounted under the windshield to a certain extent. Ford charges $10 each for my plugs. Advance Auto sells the same Motorcraft plugs for just over $2.

[billmac]

Most 04-08 F150 V8 owners use SP-515 plugs. They are less prone to breaking than the OE plugs.

This particular plug problem was fixed in 2009.

 

As far as brands, I was a hard core chevy guy back in the early days, 60's. I wouldn't own anything else. I loved those small block and big block hot rods. I owned a 56 Chevy convertible, 59 Impala coupe, 65 chevelle 300hp, 4speed, posi, 69 ss396 chevelle, 4 speed. But, later in life my experience has been much better with Fords. In fact I have had so many problems with GM products that now I have a phobia against anything GM. The bailout didn't help my opinion of GM either. Maybe they got their act together again. I hope so. The taxpayers invested what 25 billion in GM that we didn't and wont' get back.

 

The 97 thru 03 F150s are probably as reliable as any trucks ever sold. I bought a new 2000. In 105k miles, it only needed one axle seal. And now have a used 2002. No plug issues at all.

 

It was not a free bail out it was a loan that GM repaid early the news made it sound like free money but was not and it had many stipulations that included government employees being hired to make sure the money was spent under the loans agreement that would have been a total loss of GM to the government if they followed the directions of the Gov to run the business. GM paid the loan back early and got rid of the government employees.

[BlueSky]

It was not a free bail out it was a loan that GM repaid early the news made it sound like free money but was not and it had many stipulations that included government employees being hired to make sure the money was spent under the loans agreement that would have been a total loss of GM to the government if they followed the directions of the Gov to run the business. GM paid the loan back early and got rid of the government employees.

 

Yes, the loan was paid back. However, the taxpayers lost a lot on the stock which was bought when the bailout occurred. According to this article, I was incorrect about the amount. It was $11.3 Billion the taxpayers will never recover.

 

http://www.reuters.com/article/us-autos-gm-treasury-idUSBREA3T0MR20140430#HcpDHosOYraTTYOk.97

 

I'm glad GM was saved. But, I'm still poed at GM management for running the company into the ground.

[djh3]

Well this should add some fodder. Just read on Yahoo news the GM is going to start selling some sort of Chinese built SUV here in the states. REALLY Our guberment bailed them out, now they are going to sell some totally foreign car here under the premise of being "American" car company?

[XV1100SE]

Businesses have no allegiance to North American workers. Look at Michigan....and look at Mexico. How many companies shut down in America and moved production jobs (well paid) to Mexico. The Government says unemployment numbers are down...but what used to be high paid workers are now working for minimum wage or gave up.

 

Sorry... this isn't a political complaint...just the way it is.

[billmac]

not a bailout just a loan like an FHA or GI loan. They paid interest on the loan.

[BlueSky]

not a bailout just a loan like an FHA or GI loan. They paid interest on the loan.

 

Buying stock in a company at much, much higher prices than market prices at the time in order to save the company is a bailout. Like I said before, I'm glad GM was saved. But it did cost the taxpayers $11.3 Billion to do so.

 

The Government saved Chrysler back in the 80's when Lee Iaococca took over and I think that was a good thing. The taxpayers didn't lose any money on that one.

 

GM building SUVs in China and importing them is about the same as Ford building the Focus in Mexico and selling it here.

[djh3]

Some of the "unemployment" numbers being down is skewed to say the least. Numbers are provided from the unemployment agency/department or whatever of the states. Once benefits run out or someone just quits "reporting in" at said department they just write them off thinking they are working. Truth is the folks just gave up. A few years back my wife was in this situation. Eventually you get fed up with applying for a job that should pay 10-12 bucks an hour and all they want to pay is minimum wage, but you have to have a associates degree to get that.

 

But back to the plugs. Really they designed the head goofy. You cant use a standard plug in it, so your stuck with this made to fail plug. Probably they dont use any kind of anti-seize on them on assembly. With the longer service intervals, even on "regular" type plugs this presents problems. As virtually everything has aluminum heads now, and all spark plugs are steel. So dissimilar metals will corrode and more or less weld themselves together. Some A-S will help with that.

I had to do the plugs on our 02 Durango 4.7 I had one plug that had made itself one with the head. I started to take it out and all the ceramic came out, but the "nut part and threads" were still in head. Hmm now what Bat Man? So I had to find an E-Z out that I could get to work. Once it came out the threads were not great. So then I had to use a thread chaser to clean that mess up. One of them 40 min jobs that took all day.

Edited December 7, 2015 by djh3