Rear shock.. hard to replace ?

[KIC]

So I have been dealing with a potential problem. I think my rear shock is going, or gone, out. Hard to tell since the CLASS system seems to still be working. My rear mud flap seem to slowly drag more than usual especially on speed bumps and today seemed to drag on regular turns.

 

I have a shock on the 87 that I could swap out with, but it looks like a major job getting to the top of the shock. Do I have to pull the gas tank ? what all is entailed ?

[Great White]

Its a biotch no matter how you go at it.

 

Getting access to the upper shock bolt is very difficult due to it being buried in the center of the bike. I was taking the rear frame off, so the tank wasn't in the way. If I had to try and get the top shock bolt with the bike together, I would probably go at it from the rear with the tire removed and the inner fender pulled. You may be able to get to it with just the plastic inner fender pulled. My bike is stripped apart right now so I can't confirm that.

 

I wish I could say the lower bolt was easier, but I can't. Unless your lower linkage bushings are a bit worn, the linkage will have a "death grip" on the shock. I also couldn't get the center bolt (goes through the shock) until I at least got the RH muffler loose enough to push it up a couple inches. The shock bolt won't clear the muffler when you pull it out. To long.You might be able to just pull the bolt back enough that it will clear the lower shock mount with the muffler in place.Again, my bike is stripped so I can't confirm that.

 

I'm pretty sure you won't be able to pull the shock out the top because of the fuel tank, so you'll likely have to drop the lower linkage. That's a pita also. The two bolts at the swingarm won't come out unless you pull both mufflers. Yamaha put the bolts in with the heads on the outside, and the bloody mufflers hang right in front of them. If you get these bolts out, the linkage will swing down out of the way enough that you should be able to pull the shock down and out.

 

The linkage bolt at the frame is usually just a dirty, greasy mess (and a pita). My bike is stripped and I still haven't felt the urge to mess with it....

 

It would be nice if pulling the lower shock bolt would allow the linkage to swing open and you could pull the shock out. But with the bolt out, my linkage wasn't moving for love or money. I haven't look too closely yet, but I suspect the bushing goes through both linkages on each side of the shock.

 

It's a job that can go half decently well if you're not pressured and you don't mind taking things off that are in the way of your access. But I wouldn't call it simple.

 

It could be a couple hours or (depending on how easily you get frustrated) a couple days.

Edited November 20, 2015 by Great White

[dna9656]

Everything Great White says is Gospel, Let me say that I would not do this job without a motorcycle lift.

The bike will need to be on the center stand of course, Once Ii have the bike on the HF lift I use a Venom frame jack to raise the bike up (to lower the center stand) then remove the frame jack. If I need the bike any higher I use (of course) the Venom frame jack again. Being a screw jack it's not likely to collapse but you can use a 2"X4" or 2"X6" under the center stand and remove the frame lift to get it out of your way.

I would also like to add that using the manual and taking pictures because the pictures/diagrams in the manual aren't as clear as I would like them to be. I have my computer version of the manual on a 40" screen, the photos are much more clear but the diagrams are still the same and still don't show the parts very well so that's why I recommend taking pictures.

Now if I could only follow my own advise!

Edited November 21, 2015 by dna9656

[KIC]

After a 300 mile ride today I do need to do this. Is there anyway to check a shock to be sure before tearing one out ? I am pretty sure the shock on my 87 is good but I hate to go through the hassle of removing it only to find out it has an issue .

[dna9656]

Well if it doesn't hold a certain amount of air at X psi for x time I'd say it's bad. But then you have to check the airlines and all the connections for leaks first; THEN if all that cks out you prob have a bad shock....

[KIC]

I just went through the CLASS last week and cleaned and tightened every fitting, cleaned the 3 solenoids checked the air dryer etc. seems to be working OK now. I did have, at times a leak sometimes it would hold air sometimes it didn't. Now it seems to hold it OK. I am now concerned about the shock since the bike seems to be sitting so much lower even with the CLASS aired up. My mud flap drags a lot more, and that is with 1 up. I am concerned with tearing the bike apart and putting the 87 shock in it if the 87 shock has an issue too since it has been sitting for awhile.

 

I am wondering how to test/check the 87 shock before I install it in the 89. The CLASS isn't working in the 87 since the bike has sadly become a parts bike over the last 1 1/2 years.

[dna9656]

Well the part number for the rear shock for the years '87 through '89 are the same so there won't be issues there. If your bike is dragging the mud flap I'd say SOMETHING is pretty broke!

If the parts bike stands up as tall as it should I'd go ahead and install the shock for it on your rider. I would follow all instructions to the letter given in the manual when installing the air lines. Before you button her up check for leaks in the entire CLASS using soapy water. Get a squirt bottle; like for condimentsand put as much water as you think you will need along with just enough dish soap to make some bubbles and charge up the CLASS and when the lines are pressurized squirt some of the soapy water on all the connections, seals, and hoses; don't forget the collars around the front forks. You may want to hold a rag beneath the areas where you work to catch the soapy water. Should you find any leaks you can take the next step(s)...

Edited November 29, 2015 by dna9656

[greg_in_london]

I wouldn't disagree with much that has been said. It's been a while since I had to touch my shock as I had a replacement made up and I've been making slow progress on sorting the exhaust, but.... If all goes well and the last owner greased nuts and bolts before replacing them it might not be too difficult.

 

The basic problem is that Yamaha designed it without straight access onto bolts. Having the wheel out and silencers off will give you more space to play with, but the killer for me first time the top bolt. I needed to attack it at an angle, but also needed a very tight fit with a socket, but once I had the nut off I couldn't shift the bolt. I finally bought a rotary action hammer drill with a round chisel attachment, made a locating sleeve and drove the swine out.

 

The bottom joint wasn't so bad for me, but then I had to make the mother of all spring compressors to change the spring - I don't recommend that unless you're happy being very cautious...

[KIC]

Well, I am planning on trying to pull the shock off of my 87 tomorrow afternoon if weather holds and I'm not too tired from all the food. VideoArizona offered to help me on Saturday work on the 89 so hopefully the two of us will get somewhere on it.

Edited November 25, 2015 by KIC

[videoarizona]

Just read this....

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?20476-Slow-air-leak-in-rear-shock-resolved&highlight=rear+shock+removal

 

Wondering out loud if this will seal your air leak in the shock???

 

david

[KIC]

Maybe on the air part, but I think my whole shock is bad. The bike is sitting low and there is no real bounce. I can air it up, but i just think the shock gave out.

[videoarizona]

The spring should still be good enough to give you bounce.....The air and dampening gives control. Wonder what's going on?

Maybe you are right...whole shock is shot. I'm surprised though...

[KIC]

I have never messed with the dampener. What do you have yours set at ?

[videoarizona]

#1 for solo, #2 with Pat on back. Add full luggage and I go to #3.