Kiwiroyale Posted October 22, 2015 #1 Posted October 22, 2015 G'day, I am about to install a Ricks stator in my '83, I have noted that an "oiler" is/was available to correct the stator overheating problem in my model. Do I need this? Is it still available? Steve
Great White Posted October 22, 2015 #2 Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) I bought one off eBay earlier this year for 10 bucks. here's a snap from the auction: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/WkcAAOxydB1SeDOL/$T2eC16RHJHEFFm!!1QU!BSeDOLQPzQ~~60_57.JPG Here's the auction, but unfortunately they're all out: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/360783776444?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I paid less than the auction asking price because they accepted an offer I made. I think Yamaha still has them, but you're probably going to pay more than 15 bucks. If your bike doesn't have it, I would install it. Heat kills anything electrical. Either right away or over time. Yamaha came out with the kit to retrofit earlier bikes and it was detailed in a tech bulletin. It was incorporated in later model from the factory and that's pretty much all the proof you need to say you need it. Edit: HOLD THE PHONE! Here's one for 10 bucks on ebay and if you jump on it you can get one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Stater-Coil-Oil-Cooling-Kit-90891-30014-NOS-/231661818159?hash=item35f01ed12f:g:v~kAAOSw3ydV19bN&vxp=mtr Says they have 6 left when I checked. Can't go wrong for 10 bucks.... Edited October 22, 2015 by Great White
cowpuc Posted October 23, 2015 #3 Posted October 23, 2015 The bolt GW is showing you replaces the bolt in the end of the crank, simple in and out with an impact. The new bolt has an oil orfice in the end of it that sprays oil out. The little round plate is a splash plate that tosses the spray coming out of the crank against the stator.. Also as GW mentioned,, you need to do this.. Speaking about Stator issues,, another thing you could do to assist in your scoot becoming a healthy high miler is remove the left plastic side cover (covers engine top end), find the Stator output terminal that contains the 3 white wires coming from the stator - it will be attached to the small frame down tube. Remove the terminal and hard wire the stator wires in - pull wires from terminal, strip back for soldering, slide a 3 inch piece of shrink tube over all three wires and a 2 inch piece of shrink tube over each individual wire, butt join and solder wires together, cover each with shrink tube and shrink it, slide the 3 inch up and shrink it.. Trust me,, you will be glad you did!!!
Kiwiroyale Posted October 23, 2015 Author #4 Posted October 23, 2015 (edited) G'day and THANKYOU GW & Cowpuc!!! Done and dusted!!!! my oiler should arrive here in a couple of weeks, hope fully around the same time as Earl (skydoc_17) gets my gaskets to me ( no pressure mate haha). Cowpuc, I will re read your post and carry that out, but alas it is 1100pm here on Friday night and my whisky has just started to "cloud" the eyes... I am very grateful for your help, VR generally, can't wait to ride this beautiful machine. Kind Regards Steve Edited October 23, 2015 by Kiwiroyale
Ozlander Posted October 30, 2015 #5 Posted October 30, 2015 Remove the terminal and hard wire the stator wires in - pull wires from terminal, strip back for soldering, slide a 3 inch piece of shrink tube over all three wires and a 2 inch piece of shrink tube over each individual wire, butt join and solder wires together, cover each with shrink tube and shrink it, slide the 3 inch up and shrink it.. Trust me,, you will be glad you did!!! I'm glad I didn't do that when I had to replace the stator on the road last summer.
Great White Posted October 30, 2015 #6 Posted October 30, 2015 I'm glad I didn't do that when I had to replace the stator on the road last summer. Yep, the issue isn't the connection, the issue is that corrosion gets into the non weather tight plug and that corrosion raises the resistance in the connection. The result is heat and a melted plug. I've soldered the connection together before (My vf750F is soldered right now) and I've repaired the connector before. When I repair them, I prefer to use a 3 pin weather tight metri-pack connector, rated 30 or 40 amps.
Ozlander Posted October 30, 2015 #7 Posted October 30, 2015 I agree about the corrosion. That's why all the connector pin and sockets on the bike are coated with de-electric grease. I've never had a melted connector on any of my bikes. The weather tight connectors would have been a better solution for Yamaha, but I don't recall them being available in '83.
Great White Posted October 30, 2015 #8 Posted October 30, 2015 I agree about the corrosion. That's why all the connector pin and sockets on the bike are coated with de-electric grease. I've never had a melted connector on any of my bikes. The weather tight connectors would have been a better solution for Yamaha, but I don't recall them being available in '83. Not sure. They sure weren't economical to use back then. They were primarily developed to maintain sensor reliability in connections when FI started to become prevalent. I'm slowly converting over all my connectors on my bikes to the weather-pak style. Some of the larger ganged plugs are hard to come by though and expensive when you do find them...
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