NewbeeMC9 Posted January 6, 2016 #76 Posted January 6, 2016 Did you see the clutch stuff in the tech forum? Seems like I saw something about a mod that takes a wire off and you could add a couple disc and plates, but I cant find it again. May have been on the vmax board when i linked to something else. ss-Heck gettin old...
LukeMacPU Posted January 6, 2016 Author #77 Posted January 6, 2016 Haven't found a write up, but there's a Skydoc kit that included it My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!,
Flyinfool Posted January 6, 2016 #78 Posted January 6, 2016 I have the Skydoc kit and all slipping is gone, even while pulling a heavy trailer and making a group of Hardleys look bad.
LukeMacPU Posted January 6, 2016 Author #79 Posted January 6, 2016 Where does the "full plate" go from the Skydoc_17 kit? Do you replace plate 7 or 9 in this diagram?
Flyinfool Posted January 6, 2016 #80 Posted January 6, 2016 The one new plate would replace 4, 5, 6, and 7.
LukeMacPU Posted January 6, 2016 Author #81 Posted January 6, 2016 I guess I'll have to pull it apart and take a look. It's not clicking for me just looking at the parts diagram. Need to check my friction plates for wear while I'm in there. Just swapped springs when I had it apart before.
Flyinfool Posted January 6, 2016 #82 Posted January 6, 2016 The friction plat #7 that is in there now has a larger ID than the other plates. #4 , 5, and 6 are in that larger ID. The #7 plate because of the bigger ID has a friction band that is half the width of the other plates, the new plate will be identical to all of the other plates this will give you 50% more grip at that location which seems to make all the difference in the world. Once you install this new plate and heavy spring you will notice slightly more pull need to pull in the clutch from the heavier spring not bad, just more than there was. The other thing that you will notice is that the friction zone will be narrower and the clutch will not engage until just before the lever is all of the way out. This is just how it work out.
Flyinfool Posted January 6, 2016 #83 Posted January 6, 2016 The friction plat #7 that is in there now has a larger ID than the other plates. #4 , 5, and 6 are in that larger ID. The #7 plate because of the bigger ID has a friction band that is half the width of the other plates, the new plate will be identical to all of the other plates this will give you 50% more grip at that location which seems to make all the difference in the world. Once you install this new plate and heavy spring you will notice slightly more pull need to pull in the clutch from the heavier spring not bad, just more than there was. The other thing that you will notice is that the friction zone will be narrower and the clutch will not engage until just before the lever is all of the way out. This is just how it work out. For checking your friction discs for wear. A new disk is 3mm (.118 inch) thick, the wear limit is 2.8mm (.110 thick). That aint much. only 0.1mm (.004 inch) of material on each side between new and worn out. I would not replace the disks unless they are worn more than 50%, 2.9mm (.114 inch).
LukeMacPU Posted January 6, 2016 Author #84 Posted January 6, 2016 (edited) Gotcha! That makes sense. I wonder why they made it that way...? Maybe just building in more gradual clutch engagement? That would make sense over pure power transmission on a touring bike I suppose. My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!, Edited January 6, 2016 by LukeMacPU
LukeMacPU Posted January 15, 2016 Author #85 Posted January 15, 2016 (edited) Ok, please help a dumb guy out! I've experienced some clutch slippage when the engine is pulling hard so I installed new clutch springs. The '83 has 6 coil springs, not the spring plate like later models. I did check my friction plates and they're still measuring 3.0mm with my calipers. Don't have a micrometer handy to check more closely. Still had slippage so I tried something else I've heard about on here. Pulled my clutch cover off and then took out the discs/friction plates all the way to the back so I could replace the 1/2 friction plate and rings at the back with a full one. All went well and I put things back together last night. Thought I was good to go and I'd try it this morning on my way to work. Now my clutch lever won't pull at all. Stuck all the way out... Have to assume I did something stupid. Any suggestions? Could it be as simple as I didn't get the pressure plate lined up correctly on the clutch boss? Didn't have time to do anything this morning before work, but I'll pull the cover off a lunch and take a quick look. Edited January 15, 2016 by LukeMacPU
Flyinfool Posted January 15, 2016 #86 Posted January 15, 2016 Did you replace the old springs with new stock springs, or go with a heavier after market spring? Did you put the wire retainer back in on the new full plate? You should NOT have the wire retainer in there with the full plate. Next guess would be that something is not lined up correctly on the pressure plate. What oil are you running? Many or most automotive oils have friction modifiers and will cause the clutch to slip.
LukeMacPU Posted January 15, 2016 Author #87 Posted January 15, 2016 (edited) Yes, replaced stock springs with stiffer after-market springs. Things worked fine after that swap, just still slipped under heavy acceleration. I did not re-install the retainer wire when I reassembled with the full plate, didn't seem necessary. Oil I'm running is Rotella T with JASO-MA certification. I've used this in the past in other bikes with no issues, but maybe not good for this particular bike? I've reviewed the service manual, and I failed to line up the marks on the pressure plate and clutch boss so I'm going to check that ASAP. Killing me to be at the office instead of getting after it immediately! Edited January 15, 2016 by LukeMacPU
LukeMacPU Posted January 15, 2016 Author #88 Posted January 15, 2016 Pulled the pressure plate off at lunch and reassembled with the marks lined up. Lever still didn't move. I left the clutch cover off and tried a few times and whatever was catching wiggled loose. Clutch pull is freed up and moves like it should. Buttoned things up and rode to work. Roads are wet so I didn't get to apply tons of throttle, but one strong roll-on in 4th didn't slip at all and it had been slipping before. Must have put something in a slight bind when I put the plates back in last night. Good to go for now. Should be -1 to 14 degrees F this weekend so I probably won't be doing much riding immediately!
NewbeeMC9 Posted January 27, 2016 #89 Posted January 27, 2016 cimmer posted the link in this thread thanks cimmer http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?115643-Replacing-clutch-what-parts-to-order I knew I had seen it somewhere.
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