LukeMacPU Posted October 21, 2015 Author #26 Posted October 21, 2015 (edited) Working on it... Looks like someone has messed with it already. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/21/aef131015ad0a17c500bffb3bc95af8c.jpg My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!, Edited October 22, 2015 by LukeMacPU
videoarizona Posted October 23, 2015 #27 Posted October 23, 2015 (edited) Yep. Probably wouldn't hurt to go over them yourself. That way you know for sure... Suggestion: Check the rest of the joints for grins and giggles. Searching: Yea...I used to have troubles there. But getting better at finding different words to use in the search. Been here a year (CORRECTION: 2 YEARS!!)...and getting to understand this forum's systems. Kinda cool actually. Glad you are coming along...and do keep us updated with pics, ideas and questions. Keeps the rest of us on our toes!! Edited October 23, 2015 by videoarizona math problem...
LukeMacPU Posted October 24, 2015 Author #28 Posted October 24, 2015 Soldered and reinstalled CLASS. Still getting intermittent E1. Goes away if I touch the back of the wires in the harness plugged into the board socket. I'm going to double-check the solders and see if I can get the wires out of that harness to check connectors on the ends. Seems to be a bad connection there somewhere. My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!,
Patmac6075 Posted October 25, 2015 #29 Posted October 25, 2015 I just figured I'd throw in my 2 cents... #1. If you've gone through all the trouble of draining the fuel from the tank, don't forget to replace the filter...pretty easy. Also, it's really easy to drain the carb bowls, no use throwing that varnished up old goop into your cylinders. #2. If you're going to go to all the trouble of removing your starter, you might want to go ahead and just replace it....I know the cost will be prohibitive, but those things are pretty difficult to get to. Not a tough job, but you need to take off a lot of stuff to get to it. The 4 brush starter IS that much better. #3. And I know you'll get get some different opinions on this one, but when I recommissioned mine I went ahead and made sure my valve clearances were is spec before I did any work trying to fire it up. When you don't know the history of your bike, it's a good idea to get this out of the way. Again, not a particularly difficult job....but very labor intensive, and once it's done, you won't need to worry about it it also makes syncing your carbs much easier. Good luck and keep asking question, there are plenty of people who've walked the path you're on and quite a few really knowledgeable friendly people more than eager to help guide you.
LukeMacPU Posted October 26, 2015 Author #30 Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) I appreciate the advice. If this had been my bike and I knew it ran well and I was only dealing with a starter issue, I'd definitely spring for a new 4-brush. At this point, I want to at least get the thing running/riding before I sink much money in it. I'm ok with having to pull it apart again to make the upgrade later if all goes well. I'll work on getting those carbs drained and I'll also track down where the fuel filter is and swap/clean that. In other news... My bike appears to have a manual switch to turn on the cooling fan? Why would somebody do that? Having spent some time on dual-sport bikes, I'm familiar with guys wiring these up for on/off-road bikes so you can keep the fan running in tight woods conditions, but I wouldn't have thought that was necessary on a big road bike like this. Is that mod common? Edited October 26, 2015 by LukeMacPU
Flyinfool Posted October 26, 2015 #31 Posted October 26, 2015 The manual switch is common only in cases where the thermostatic switch has failed, or the owner is freaked out by the temp gauge normal reading of just barely under the red. The fan does cycle on and off as required, running it all the time will just wear it out quicker, and abuse an already weak electrical system, and give you a better chance of over heating if you forget to turn it on when needed.
flyday58 Posted October 27, 2015 #32 Posted October 27, 2015 Keep after it Luke. I resurrected an '83 that had sat under a leaky shed in southern Miss for about 5 years. Lots of cancer that needed to be gutted (read: brakes and reservoirs), but the first time I hit the throttle after getting all the problems sorted (read: replaced TCI with one that hadn't been submerged) It damn near threw me off the back, seriously. I wasn't ready. Great, great bikes once you dial 'em in, and this is the site to do that. Watch out for guys from Muskegon though...
LukeMacPU Posted October 27, 2015 Author #33 Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) Well another setback this evening. I pulled the starter, cleaned it out, replaced the brushes. Bench tested using jumper cables, positive on the post, negative on the outer case. It'll barely move even with no load. Turning it manually, it feels like it drags/catches on something inside. So where do I find a nice 4 brush replacement? 1985-2000 V-max starters work for my '83 Venture? Are they 4 brush? My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!, Edited October 27, 2015 by LukeMacPU
bongobobny Posted October 27, 2015 #34 Posted October 27, 2015 Any 2nd gen RSV '99 - '12 will work, and a lot cheaper than VMAX parts. Expect to pay around $60 for a good used one...
LukeMacPU Posted October 27, 2015 Author #35 Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) Just ordered a V-max starter new for $80. Probably won't arrive until Monday, but from what I've read it should work well. As a side note: I took my old starter back apart a couple of times looking for anything I may have done wrong in cleaning it up and swapping in new brushes from a rebuild kit. I didn't intentionally change anything, but it felt like it spun more freely by hand after reassembling it. Bench tested it and the damn thing runs like a top now! I'm still going to install the new 4 brush unit when it gets here, but I may at least have a spare in the barn now. Edited October 27, 2015 by LukeMacPU
LukeMacPU Posted October 30, 2015 Author #36 Posted October 30, 2015 (edited) New starter is in and the bike fired up! Didn't run well, but it wasn't terrible. Only 3 of 4 slides move with throttle and rpm. Right rear doesn't even twitch. It isn't stuck, just doesn't move via vacuum. I guess the carbs come apart next and I need to get to work on the rear brakes and other stuff. Bike runs!!! Anyone know if the carb diaphragm source in Canada mentioned in this post from the Tech Read Only section is still good? I've sent them an e-mail, I guess I'll find out... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42124-Carb-Diaphragm-Source My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!, Edited October 30, 2015 by LukeMacPU
LukeMacPU Posted November 2, 2015 Author #37 Posted November 2, 2015 (edited) Carbs came off and got cleaned up. Pulled the diaphragms to inspect for holes because I had one slide not moving. Really didn't find any holes. The plastic part of the slide had slipped off of the metal part leaving a big gap where the diaphragm meets the slide between the two plastic washers. The diaphragm could move a lot without actually moving the slide/needle. When I put them all back on the bike it runs pretty decent. It'll idle at 1000 rpms, all slides move the same, and it revs pretty smoothly. Starts easily with choke cold and without when hot. I've got new fork springs and seals coming. Need to get my rear brakes squared away. Rebuild kit time. After I run some fresh fuel through it I'm going to sync the carbs. CLASS is still giving me fits. Need to get the wires out of the harness to see what up. Wiggling the wires makes it work intermittently. I've already soldered the board, so think I'm dealing with bad connection at the plug, not internal. What's the secret to removing the individual wires from the plug? I'm having trouble locating the spring-loaded deal that allows the metal connector to pull out without damaging it. Progress... My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack! Edited November 2, 2015 by LukeMacPU
LukeMacPU Posted November 7, 2015 Author #38 Posted November 7, 2015 (edited) Put new plugs in the bike and ran it for a bit after I removed the rear master cylinder (rebuild kit in transit). Started right up and idles well at 950ish rpms. I noticed I've got a small exhaust leak on the right rear cylinder where it joins the header pipe. How hard is that to fix? Looking at the parts diagrams maybe a gasket is all that I might need? Ordered two new ones so I can replace both of them back there. My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!, Edited November 7, 2015 by LukeMacPU
videoarizona Posted November 8, 2015 #39 Posted November 8, 2015 Sounds like your scoot is getting anxious to hit the road! Good work! Keep us informed...
LukeMacPU Posted November 12, 2015 Author #40 Posted November 12, 2015 Finally got some time and parts! Rebuilt the rear master cylinder and bled things out. Restored braking mostly. I need to replace the pads that got soaked in oil from a bad fork seal, but otherwise working as they should front and rear. Next was the fork seals and springs. Hit a wall on one fork seal. Couldn't for the life of me get the bolt out of the end of the fork to pull it apart! Tried an impact, plus big wrenches on the bolt and fork lower. Neither worked and I was afraid of stripping the head on that hex bolt so I stopped. That fork seal wasn't leaking noticeably anyway... Left it for now, put a new seal in the bad leaker and filled them with fresh oil. New springs made a huge difference. Bike doesn't bottom out at every bump now and the forks aren't compressed much just parked. Took it for my first test spin on pavement about ten minutes ago. Seems to ride really smooth for a bike that just came out of a barn! Ran it up to about 55 and all was good until the speedo went nuts squealing. I've heard of this problem and now I guess I'll be dissembling to lube it. Otherwise bike seems pretty good. Still have exhaust gaskets to replace on rear pipes and will need to sync carbs after I put some fresh gas and sea foam through things. Pretty pumped! Off to BMV for plates. My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!,
LukeMacPU Posted November 15, 2015 Author #41 Posted November 15, 2015 (edited) Synced the carbs today. Always amazed what a difference that can make! Really easy on the VR too. Much easier to start and smoother throttle response. I've ridden it three days in a row now. Squealing speedo has just about quit. Comfortably runs 70-75 with no issues. I think I'm going to enjoy this bike for sure. EDIT: Speedo noise seems to be temperature related. Hadn't heard it all weekend when it was warmer, but it was back this morning on my way to work. When we get a few days of cold/snow I'll pull the dash and lube that up. Quick question... Are these bikes a little cold blooded normally? Mine starts fairly easily now that I'm getting the choke routine down. Crank for a second at full choke, then slowly back the choke down and it'll fire somewhere below half-choke. I haven't been letting it warm up much at all, maybe 30 seconds before I take off. When I get out on the road (driveway is 1/2 mile of gravel) the engine seems to want to bog in 5th gear below 3K rpm. This goes away about the time the temp needle comes up to 1/3 of the way into the green. My bike has a small gap in the green about there. Thought maybe that was supposed to be the "normal" operating temp. Other than that I've got no complaints and I'm really enjoying the bike so far! Fairing is much better in cooler temps than the other bikes I've had before. My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!, Edited November 16, 2015 by LukeMacPU
LukeMacPU Posted November 23, 2015 Author #42 Posted November 23, 2015 Exhaust gaskets replaced and new speakers installed. Going to need a new battery for spring. The PO installed a new one, but it went dead and dry in storage and won't hold much of a charge now. Back to the speakers... Left one sounds blown even though it's new. Tried a different speaker and it sounds the same. Possible somethings gone goofy in the radio itself? Started a thread in audio and GPS for that, but haven't gotten any responses yet. My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!,
videoarizona Posted November 23, 2015 #43 Posted November 23, 2015 Hmmm...sounds like a normal warm up to me. Although I do let mine sit for a few minutes when cold then push off the choke and take off. One thing I don't do is throttle up under 3K rpm in 5th gear. Just to low rpm my opinion. I downshift.
KIC Posted November 23, 2015 #44 Posted November 23, 2015 I Don't use 5th unless I am driving over 75 on the freeway. I usually cruise around 4500 RPMs in any gear. 5th is rarely used on my 1989.
LukeMacPU Posted November 24, 2015 Author #45 Posted November 24, 2015 Good deal! I won't worry about that cold bloodedness then. Thanks for the feedback! My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!,
LukeMacPU Posted December 7, 2015 Author #46 Posted December 7, 2015 (edited) Rear air shock in CLASS just started working! I've had what I assume to be solenoid/valve issues with my rear shock in the CLASS since I got my bike. Re-soldered the board and all that, but didn't fix the issue. Pump comes on, but appears to only be pumping up the valve chamber or something as it only takes 3 seconds from 0-43 psi. It immediately dumps that air when the pump shuts off. Front works fine, rear not-so-much. I've been riding the bike for a bit (just me no luggage) with the rear shock deflated. On a whim, I figured I'd give it another try yesterday when I hopped on. Better lucky than good! The pump came on as usual, but it ran for maybe 20 seconds and the PSI slowly came up to 43. When I checked the front and came back to the rear it still read 43 (has been dropping back to 0 immediately). Looks like it actually worked too. Had to re-adjust my headlight this morning because the rear end was riding so much higher. Much stiffer ride back there too. May go back to low for unloaded commuting. I probably won't be lucky enough that it'll keep working, but it is for now! New battery installed tonight too. Hopefully, it'll fire off in the morning cold like it should. Edited December 8, 2015 by LukeMacPU
LukeMacPU Posted December 10, 2015 Author #47 Posted December 10, 2015 First longish ride done! A shade under 400 miles today on a work trip to WI. Bike did pretty well. I've not put in any hi speed miles on mine before. How strong is it supposed to pull in 5th from 70-80 mph? I had a few times today I couldn't increase my speed going up a small hill. That didn't seem normal. I'm going to check my air filter. Had a similar issue on another bike, but I'll check my compression if that fails. Any other thoughts? My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!,
Flyinfool Posted December 10, 2015 #48 Posted December 10, 2015 At 70-80 it should pull pretty good. Any hill on the interstate should not be a problem at that speed even in 5th. Are you sure you are not running on 3 cylinders. That is what you are describing for performance. These bikes run amazingly good on 3 cyls. There are some that rode for over a year on 3 without knowing it. What kind of gas mileage did you get, The biggest indicator of running on 3 is bad gas mileage. Do not be afraid of revs on these bikes. 4th is safe for the engine to well over 100, 3rd is safe to 95 to 105 depending on who you talk to.
LukeMacPU Posted December 10, 2015 Author #49 Posted December 10, 2015 Maybe it's 3 cylinders... I have noWhere near that kind of pull at high speed. Mpg was just over 41-43 for my fill ups. Just pulling spark plug wire at idle best way to check the cylinders? Dead one won't make a change right? My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!,
LukeMacPU Posted December 10, 2015 Author #50 Posted December 10, 2015 What's the common reason for 3 cylinders? Carbs all looked clean when pulled apart. My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!,
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