Pegasus1300 Posted October 12, 2015 #26 Posted October 12, 2015 Be sure that you mic the crank to make sure there is no flat spot from bending the rod.
VerntureVet Posted October 12, 2015 #27 Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) A few things (besides a book) that I find are a MUST when digging into any project this deep when cables, wires, and lots of bolts are involved. Masking tap A Black Perm. Marker (or 6 if you loose them like me) A set of paint marker in a range of colors Zip Ties Zip lock bags Brown Paper Bags A Digital Camera When taking things off you stash the nuts and bolts in zip lock/brown bags and zip tie them to what they came off of when possible. When taking off things that can't be ties to where they came off put them in a bag and label them with a # or color place them on the bike near the location you took them off and snap a pic. Even pointing @ locations when possible. Mask both ends of hoses and the spot they came off and #/label them and take a picture. Set all your parts in a safe spat in order low to high when possible. Let me tell you even if your label on the engine side comes off having a #ed bag or colored tag and a picture to look @ has saved my hours of pain and suffering. The Yamaha parts break down is fairly good even if the do not draw multiple bolts in the same location. I try to # with a color code and match the parts break down as I take things off. It feels like you are taking more time doing this but it can pay off when you are putting things back together a month or 2 from now when you run into the old MAN I never thought I would forget where that came off. I asked someone here what Jets the put in there carbs and even they admitted they never thought they would forget what size they put in but sure enough it slipped his mind after 2 years. P.S. wrot ethis on the tablet and auto correct/complete really mad me sound like an idiot but you get the point to much trouble to go back and correct it all for grammar. Edited October 21, 2015 by VerntureVet
jjven68 Posted October 14, 2015 Author #28 Posted October 14, 2015 Great advise and tips guys... Thank you very much. Keep them coming. I'll keep you all updated
jjven68 Posted November 29, 2015 Author #29 Posted November 29, 2015 (edited) Hey guys, hope everyone had a fantastic and plentiful Happy Thanksgiving. Mine as always full of great food and family. Well I finally got to it and the news is not very good. The sleeve has a 3/4 in long crack right at the bottom, which I am assuming it was caused by the piston when it got hit by the crankshaft and broke a couple of pieces from the piston's skirt. Now, by measuring the length of the stroke, I can see that the crack seems to be way below from the bottom of piston. The sleeve comes out from the cylinder head about 5/8 of an in. That makes me wonder if this crack can be ignore since it seems to never be reached by the cylinder rings. So here is the question: Can that crack be ignore? If NO, all I need is to replace the rod, piston and necesary gaskets and I am back in the game. If YES, then the sleeve needs to be replace which I really don't know if that is possible. If not possible, then I'll need to replace the cylinder head which at around $800 is not really fun. I am having a friend bike mechanic coming over next week to give me his diagnostic. I am very interested in knowing your advise and opinion. I believe this forum's wisdom is worth in gold. And here are the pictures... Let me know if this link works. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B924ErRZj2jHdEZFLXppaVVIVVU&usp=sharing Edited November 29, 2015 by jjven68
Condor Posted November 29, 2015 #30 Posted November 29, 2015 If it's cracked and you're in that deep you might as well fix it. One way is to pick up a used motor from a salver and take what you need. It may be ugly on the outside, but generally they're clean on the inside. Just make sure there's not a 'hunnerd million miles on it. My 2¢
jjven68 Posted November 29, 2015 Author #31 Posted November 29, 2015 Definitely a good option @Condor. The scary part is that some times is hard to find out the miles on it. And the fat that this bike is only 4000 miles makes it even harder. I have been looking for a stripped engine since all I need is the cylinder head. So far nada...
Condor Posted November 29, 2015 #32 Posted November 29, 2015 Have you checked with Dingy?? He always has engine parts laying around. Make sure the bore is OK. With the broken skirts it might have some damage. PS I like your engine stand... :-)
jjven68 Posted December 1, 2015 Author #33 Posted December 1, 2015 @Condor, definitely contemplating that idea. I'll definitely want to do it right cause I feel like keeping this bike for a while. The stand was easier to make than I thought and is definitely helpful. I little high for me but nothing that a one step stool can't fix...lol.
Yammer Dan Posted December 3, 2015 #35 Posted December 3, 2015 Crazy idea. If you welded up the crack and then ground it down to make sure nothing hit the weld?? This would keep crack from going further?? I need sleep. I've tried some crazy things. If the crack was clear of everything as you describe I would think just keeping it from cracking further??? OK OK I'm going back to my corner now.
Flyinfool Posted December 3, 2015 #36 Posted December 3, 2015 Cracks are never good and will usually grow over time. Even if you were to try to weld it, you would still want to stop drill it before welding. With that said, I would not try to weld the sleeve. If the sleeve got hit hard enough to crack it, it is probably not round anymore either. The stress in the metal could be way beyond the visible crack. If that sleeve were to come apart at speed it could destroy the engine and lock the rear wheel.
Pegasus1300 Posted December 4, 2015 #37 Posted December 4, 2015 +1 on Condor's suggestion. One other thing to check,either mic or have someone mic the involved rod journal on the crank to make sure there is not a flat spot where the rod hit the crank.
jjven68 Posted December 7, 2015 Author #38 Posted December 7, 2015 I have asked two mechanics and they have told me pretty much the same thing. I still have one mech friend to check it out. So far it seems that a drill stop will solve it. I believe is small and low enough to not cause trouble. I have checked the plane bearings for the connecting rod and they show no damage, which is an indication that the crankshaft did not suffer. I'll let you know...Stay tune!
Condor Posted December 7, 2015 #39 Posted December 7, 2015 Another thing to consider is -if- the pistons are a balanced set, and depending on how big a chunk is missing, if might cause harmonic vibrations in the motor due to one piston not matching.... Maybe??
jjven68 Posted December 7, 2015 Author #40 Posted December 7, 2015 I am buying a new piston, but I am keeping the rings. The old piston is definitely useless. I believe in an engine with only 4000 mi the difference between the new one and the other 3 should be none, don't you think?
Condor Posted December 7, 2015 #41 Posted December 7, 2015 I am buying a new piston, but I am keeping the rings. The old piston is definitely useless. I believe in an engine with only 4000 mi the difference between the new one and the other 3 should be none, don't you think? I donno?? Maybe..maybe not... I don't even know if Yamaha used a balanced set when they built the motor in the plant?? I do know that when we built race engines back in another lifetime they ran stronger and smoother when the crank, rods and pistons were balanced.
jjven68 Posted January 11, 2016 Author #42 Posted January 11, 2016 Hello Everybody and Happy New Year!!! I hope everyone had a good Holiday Season. Mine, as crazy as always between friends and family. This year we had a very warm Christmas and New Year in St Petersburg and it was Awesome!!! Finally back to project... I have found someone that will re-sleeve the engine, so I am going to take advantage of it and have him putting the engine together. The deal is that I get all the parts and he puts it back together. Now, I am here about to order the parts but I am having a problem being able to figure out which Plane Bearing for the connecting Rod. I know I am supposed to match the crankshaft numbers to the rod number to pick the right one. Where do I find such information? I have been looking at service manual and I can't find it. Is there a cheat sheet anywhere? I am sure not many of you here have dealt with this since we know these engines are forever but may be someone have rebuild one engine here and there. Thanks!
Rick Butler Posted January 11, 2016 #43 Posted January 11, 2016 JJ, I've rebuilt a 93 completely and if I remember right the the size of the bearings is based upon some of the engine numbers. I have never looked in the 2nd gen manual to see what it says, but I'll take a look at it tonight. But in the end, you need to plastiguage each bearing anyway to get the right tolerence. Later, Rick Hello Everybody and Happy New Year!!! I hope everyone had a good Holiday Season. Mine, as crazy as always between friends and family. This year we had a very warm Christmas and New Year in St Petersburg and it was Awesome!!! Finally back to project... I have found someone that will re-sleeve the engine, so I am going to take advantage of it and have him putting the engine together. The deal is that I get all the parts and he puts it back together. Now, I am here about to order the parts but I am having a problem being able to figure out which Plane Bearing for the connecting Rod. I know I am supposed to match the crankshaft numbers to the rod number to pick the right one. Where do I find such information? I have been looking at service manual and I can't find it. Is there a cheat sheet anywhere? I am sure not many of you here have dealt with this since we know these engines are forever but may be someone have rebuild one engine here and there. Thanks!
Rick Butler Posted January 11, 2016 #44 Posted January 11, 2016 JJ, Do you have a shop manual for the RSV (LIT-11616-12-60)? If not Juggler has one that you can link to on his server and download: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1828-Download-the-Owners-and-Service-Manuals The Crankshaft bearing ares on 4-81 and the rod bearings are on 4-95 There are numbers stamped on the crank and the case where you subtract to get the difference which gives you a color of the bearing to order: http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d6c7f87002275461d642/crankshaft-piston Look at number 2 and 10 on the above fiche But even when you install them, you need to check the tolerances with plastiguage. Hope this helps, Rick
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