Dano's Starter Clutch

[dna9656]

On start up I got the "rocks in the valve cover" sound so I asked around and learned that I needed a starter clutch. I subsequently learned I needed Dano's starter clutch as it was a tremendous upgrade over Mother Yamaha's starter clutch and it wouldn't wear out too soon! So I got one (long story short) and I started the install today. I read all I could find on the job here, read the FSM and proceeded.

Clean the covers on the left side of the engine. Clean below as well.

You'll want to take off the shifter linkage but only enough so the front side cover can be removed. Remove the rubber clutch cover.

Then the rear cover; I think it's a 6.5mm Allen head wrench you'll need to take loose the socket head bolts holding it in place.

Next is the 2 screws that hold the round (2 1/4"?) crank shaft bolt cover on to the main (largest) side cover.

Now remove the the forward most cover, use the same 6.5mm Allen wrench to do this.

You'll need to take loose the (magnets?) from the lower side of the forward cover, remove the plug holding the wires for them and then the magnets(?).

Now there are 2 screws holding the stator in place; remover them and the you might need to gently bump the stator with a mallet to knock it loose.

Remove the stator; Put it in a safe place. Now what you see is the starter clutch, there is a big (19mm) bolt there. The starter clutch has a hexagon cast into it so you can hold the clutch assembly while you turn the crank shaft bolt. That hex is approx. 32mm, I used a pry bar against the frame (aft of the driver's foot peg) to hold the adjustable wrench that I put on the hex....turned the ratchet on the crank shaft bolt and it didn't take a lot of effort like I thought it would.

Remove the bolt and the long pin that's inside it.

Install harmonic balancer puller, use 3 M8 1.25 thread and 90mm long grade 10.5 (or what ever is the metric hardest bolt) and washers (same grade) and tighten the 3 bolts. Now tighten the puller a bit then whack the puller bolt with the BFH a few times and tighten again, whack with the BFH again; (here's where mine came off) if it doesn't come off leave tension on the puller and attack the old gasket on the covers and the engine. Don't gouge the metal. Use a (VERY CAREFULLY) razor blade and holder to remove he gasket material completely. Now clean the covers, use compressed air and a rag to catch the debris and the oil out of the deep places, dry the cover(s) then chase the threaded holes where the Allen head bolts came from, blow the screw holes out with compressed air and clean up the engine and job site. Wire wheel the hardware (screws) as necessary. After the clutch is off clean behind it, inspect all the gears and their mounting holes for condition, inspect the covers too. Install is the reverse with variations.... I hope you paid attention to what screws went where while you were taking it apart!

Edited September 27, 2015 by dna9656

[Flyinfool]

I added a few notes in red to your procedure

 

On start up I got the "rocks in the valve cover" sound so I asked around and learned that I needed a starter clutch. I subsequently learned I needed Dano's starter clutch as it was a tremendous upgrade over Mother Yamaha's starter clutch and it wouldn't wear out too soon! So I got one (long story short) and I started the install today. I read all I could find on the job here, read the FSM and proceeded.

Clean the covers on the left side of the engine. Clean below as well.

You'll want to take off the shifter linkage but only enough so the front side cover can be removed. Remove the rubber clutch cover.

Then the rear cover; I think it's a 6.5mm Allen head wrench you'll need to take loose the socket head bolts holding it in place.

Next is the 2 screws that hold the round (2 1/4"?) crank shaft bolt cover on to the main (largest) side cover. This step is not necessary.

Now remove the the forward most cover, use the same 6.5mm Allen wrench to do this.

You'll need to take loose the (magnets?) from the lower side of the forward cover, remove the plug holding the wires for them and them the magnets(?). I think you are referring to the pick up coils, there is no need to remove the coils from the cover.

Now there are 2 screws holding the stator in place; remover them and the you might need to gently bump the stator with a mallet to knock it loose.

Remove the stator; Put it in a safe place. Again no need to remove the stator. Now what you see is the starter clutch, there is a big (19mm) bolt there. The starter clutch has a hexagon cast into it so you can hold the clutch assembly while you turn the crank shaft bolt. That hex is approx. 32mm, I used a 1 - 1/4 inch Combination wrench, it was long enough to hit something solid to keep it from turning. I used a pry bar against the frame (aft of the driver's foot peg) to hold the adjustable wrench that I put on the hex....turned the ratchet on the crank shaft bolt and it didn't take a lot of effort like I thought it would.

Remove the bolt and the long pin that's inside it.

Install harmonic balancer puller, use 3 M8 1.25 thread and 90mm long grade 10.5 (or what ever is the metric hardest bolt) and washers (same grade) and tighten the3 bolts. Now tighten the puller a bit then whack the puller bolt with a BFH a few times and tighten again, whack with BFH again (here's where mine came off) if it doesn't come off leave tension on the puller and attack the old gasket on the covers and the engine. Don't gouge the metal. Use a (VERY CAREFULLY) razor blade and holder to remove he gasket material completely. Now clean the covers, chase the threaded holes where the Allen head bolts came from, and clean up the engine and job site. Wire wheel the hardware as necessary. After the clutch is off clean behind it, inspect all the gears and their mounting holes for condition, inspect the covers too. Install is the reverse with variations.... I hope you paid attention to what screws went where while you were taking it apart.

 

When putting back together, Make sure that the shift linkage is still in the correct orientation, Gravity wants to flip it 180 degrees when you are not looking and will make it not work.

 

The bottom bolt on the middle gear cover has a copper crush washer, The crush washer must go back on that bottom location or you WILL have an oil leak. I always use a new washer just to avoid leaks.

 

Where the 3 stator wires go thru the rubber plug to get thru the side cover is a popular spot for oil leaks.

My method of sealing it is to use a lot a brake cleaner to remove all oil from the rubber and the wires. The wires have a cloth covering so it takes some work to get all of the oil out of the cloth. Then gently put about an inch of wire thru the rubber and clean all of the oil out of the cloth coating again. Now coat the cloth coating very well with black RTV and pull the wires bock to their original positions. This will pull the RTV into the rubber for a good seal that oil can not wick thru. coat all mating edges and around the wires of that rubber seal with black RTV while assembling.

[dna9656]

I added a few notes in red to your procedure

 

 

 

When putting back together, Make sure that the shift linkage is still in the correct orientation, Gravity wants to flip it 180 degrees when you are not looking and will make it not work.

 

The bottom bolt on the middle gear cover has a copper crush washer, The crush washer must go back on that bottom location or you WILL have an oil leak. I always use a new washer just to avoid leaks.

 

Where the 3 stator wires go thru the rubber plug to get thru the side cover is a popular spot for oil leaks.

My method of sealing it is to use a lot a brake cleaner to remove all oil from the rubber and the wires. The wires have a cloth covering so it takes some work to get all of the oil out of the cloth. Then gently put about an inch of wire thru the rubber and clean all of the oil out of the cloth coating again. Now coat the cloth coating very well with black RTV and pull the wires bock to their original positions. This will pull the RTV into the rubber for a good seal that oil can not wick thru. coat all mating edges and around the wires of that rubber seal with black RTV while assembling.

 

The reason I tool the stator out was to clean the old gasket off the cover. I tried cleaning it with a gasket scraper and a razor blade but it was gouging the gasket surface too much and it was really slow going. After removing the stator I went over to the bench and used the "scotch bright" type of gasket remover you put on a drill. They say it will not remove any metal but now that I had the cover on a table top (not hanging by wires on the bike) I could more effectively remove most of the gasket with a scraper THEN remove what little was left with the drill attachment. I don't have a 1 1/4 wrench I have a 1 1/8 though.

[Flyinfool]

Unless you already had cut out the stator connector and soldered the wires, you could have just unplugged it to take the cover to the bench.

[dna9656]

Well I guess I was ignorant of it's being PLUGGED in vs. hard wired. Live and learn...

[Flyinfool]

Now to figure out where that pesky washer goes.......

[dna9656]

Sadder and wiser:

 

Well it's all moot now. I lined up the starter reduction gears, All the teeth looked lined up. Tightened the bolt on the clutch and broke the boss (block) holding the final large gear. I read here on the forum where a this happened to a member and he got it welded, Well I got a 83 with 26k on the odometer, Guess I'll be moving parts over sooner than I thought.

 

I have the Ignitec, coil over plugs, PLUGS, the windshield, the seat and the 1985 trunk, the trunk rack, the 1300CC forks and brake upgrade (most parts on hand, need Sky docs conversion plumbing) the wiring for the heated seats the wheels (they have new tires and bearings) and the LEDs. Hand grips, and of course the starter clutch.

Not starting tonight. When I do I'm doing the started clutch first and taking pics at every step.

So BEFORE you install the starter clutch REMOVE the starter drive gears

The gold 83 is torn down pretty far, the basket(?) that holds the front fairing halves is off, well the bike is pretty well skeletal. Anyone can come over and lend a hand if they like.