Class 2 Error ?? Can't find information

[KIC]

Working on my son-in--law's 87 CLASS system. (1Rooster's old bike). His CLASS started having the E2 error. Could not find anything in any threads covering E2. Re soldered the board just in case. Anybody know what the E2 error means ? We have the pump kicking on but it does not seem to be pumping air. Disconnected the hose and can not feel any air even though the pump is pumping. Then the pump will stop and the E2 error shows. Color me confused.

 

Any ideas ?

[Prairiehammer]

Working on my son-in--law's 87 CLASS system. (1Rooster's old bike). His CLASS started having the E2 error. Could not find anything in any threads covering E2. Re soldered the board just in case. Anybody know what the E2 error means ? We have the pump kicking on but it does not seem to be pumping air. Disconnected the hose and can not feel any air even though the pump is pumping. Then the pump will stop and the E2 error shows. Color me confused.

 

Any ideas ?

 

[KIC]

Thanks Kevin, We are now just putting it back together. still no output. seems that the pump is trying to suck air in, but nothing coming out. checking the disiccdent canister to check it.

[KIC]

OK... so we took the same parts all apart several times. Cleaned and checked everything. Took the dryer canister apart. Cleaned and made sure everything "blew" through. Finally decided to focus on the compressor. It will suck air in, nothing out. ??? that was confusing, so we tried it again.. sucked air in, no discharge. Got a lighter and lit a flame in front of the discharge outlet, didn't flicker one little bit. Nothing ..nada..zero..zip...

 

How can it suck it in and not discharge any pressure at all ????

[afrometive]

I'm having a similar problem. I'm restoring a 87 venture royale 1200 and when i press the increase button with the unit on auto i hear the compressor click but the compressor won't activate. The compressor does work fine and have repaired e1 and e4 now i just get the e2. Same issue with it on manual, compressor clicks when i press the increase buttons but doesn't turn on. I think it has something to do with the blue and white wire that leads to the relay. Any Ideas would be helpful.

[paysaw]

There are two wires that run from the relay to the motor.when you engage the the control it engages the pump relay by connecting a ground to it. You might have a bad connector that connects to your clas unit.

[Prairiehammer]

Here is a write up about overhauling the CLASS compressor. The CLASS was exhibiting the "E2" error prior to overhaul.

 

CLASS System Compressor Ring Repair

I was having problems with the CLASS air compressor on my '88 Royale. From 0 psi, it would pump the rear shock to about 52 psi before giving an error E3, “compressor on too long”. Repeating the attempt to increase pressure resulted in about a 1 psi increase before stopping with an E2 error, “air pressure not increasing”.

 

 

It appeared that the compressor was running, but could not produce enough pressure to satisfy the CLASS computer's diagnostics. When a reciprocating piston engine loses compression it may be caused by a blown head gasket, leaking valves, worn piston rings or internal damage. Disassembly of the CLASS compressor was in order to determine the apparent lack of compression.

 

 

Removing the assembly was pretty easy. There are three electrical connectors to remove, one to the compressor motor, one to the bleed valve and one to the manifold assembly. Remove the banjo fittings for the front and rear air lines. (Caution: reduce the pressure to 7 PSI before doing this). Then the whole compressor/valve/drier assembly lifts out off the studs that the cover attaches to.

 

 

Next, remove the air line from the compressor to the drier. Disconnect the fitting at the valve, then loosen the clamp for the drier and remove the air line fitting on the drier that goes to the compressor. With the air line now disconnected, remove the compressor from its mounting bracket.

 

 

Now, one can fit a wrench to remove the air line. Clamp the compressor in a vice, with the compressor head facing up. Remove four head bolts/screws and remove the head. Two thin pieces of metal form a reed valve at the intake port. Remove them. The body of the compressor contains a sintered metal insert that acts as a cylinder. The cylinder head seals to that insert via an O-ring.

 

 

Re-orient the compressor in the vice so that the motor is straight up. There are six screws facing upwards. The middle two secure the motor to the body and do not need to be removed. I removed the outer four screws and separated the compressor case. The motor side has a simple gear reduction from the motor with a small crank pin sticking out. The piston and rod will be lying in the bottom half of the case. I pulled the cylinder/piston assembly from the head and pulled the piston from the cylinder. After washing everything in solvent, I could see no damage. The piston has a single Teflon looking piston ring on it. The piston ring didn't seem to stick out much from the skirt. I was confident that Yamaha did not sell a replacement. I wondered how I could make the ring thicker. Some oil rings on automotive engines are multi-piece. They have a wavy steel spring that fits in the groove, and then the oil ring sits on top of that wavy spring. The spring presses against the oil rings forcing them outward. So, I took a piece of paper and cut a string 1 7/8" long (the circumference of the piston ring groove) by 1/8", the width of the ring) and placed it in the groove and then put the ring on top of it. I slid the piston back into the cylinder. It was too tight. I measured the thickness of the paper as .005".

 

 

I went on a hunt and found some thin tissue paper. It measured just a touch over .001". I cut a strip from this tissue paper. I put the piston in the cylinder and felt a little bit of resistance, not too much. I lubricated the piston with a very light coat of Vaseline and replaced the piston in the cylinder and reinstalled the cylinder in the compressor housing. I smeared molybdenum grease on the crank pin and a thin coat of RTV on the mating surfaces on the compressor housing and reassembled the compressor, making sure that the crank pin went into the piston rod.

 

 

I cleaned the reed valve inserts as well as the head. I installed the reed valve inserts in the recess at the top of the cylinder, observing that the alignment notch was properly oriented. I cleaned the head and put a thin coat of Vaseline on the intake port and on the O-ring. I couldn't readily figure out how to clean the exhaust port. There is a bolt on the top of the head that presses on a spring that closes the exhaust port. I removed the bolt and the spring, but the valve stayed in. I put the head back on and tightened the screws. I reassembled everything and installed the assembly on the bike. I flipped the ignition to the “accessory” position and depressed the “H” (high) button. The digital readout indicated that the compressor pumped up to 70 psi and shut off; as designed. I bled the pressure down to 43 psi. Again, commanding high pressure, the compressor pumped back up to 70 psi indicated with no errors.

 

 

Since I have aftermarket Progressive® springs in the front forks and like the handling with no air pressure in the forks, I left the front air line disconnected. I capped that air line by placing two rubber washers, one on each side of the banjo fitting, and bolting them together with a 1/4" bolt and two steel washers. That will keep any dirt or moisture out of the air lines. On the valve side, I bought an M8x1.0 bolt and cut it short, probably 15-20mm and screwed that into the valve body, seating it against the o-ring. I saved the banjo bolt in the event I wished to return the CLASS function.

 

 

The whole operation took less than an hour and didn't require any special tools, other than a micrometer to measure the paper ring spacer.

Larry Piekarski

[Great White]

In my case, a po (The Pile bike) had lied to me, taken the compressor apart and lost one of the metal Reed valve inserts.

 

The compressor was exhibiting the same behaviour you are describing. It would pull air in, but there was no discharge. This was because after pulling the air in it could only half seal off the intake port on the compression stroke. The air was leaking back out the intake port, but slowly. If I stuck my finger over the intake hose/filter, it would suck the hose shut but still no real discharge air.

 

I got it working by making my own Reed valve insert to replace the missing one, but finally ended up buying another used compressor.

 

Not saying its your problem, but the symptoms a very similar....

[afrometive]

Thanks everyone, it's been helpful. I think something in the computer is bad. Can trip the compressor by using a light tester connected to a ground and then tested it at the connector, and at the soldered pin in the circuit board it self. System pumps up fine but but does seem to leak and won't trip on its own. Could it be a bad ground somewhere or do i need to try and find a new computer? or could it be that the reed is stuck somehow and the computer not getting a proper return signal?

[KIC]

Well, we are going to tear into it and see if the valve is good or if the tissue fix will work. I am perplexed how tissue can fix something like that, but it will be interesting. Thanks for the information. Will post an update when we figure it out. Worse case scenario is when I finish my DC TDY and finally get home, I send him one off of my parts bikes.

[Great White]

Well, we are going to tear into it and see if the valve is good or if the tissue fix will work. I am perplexed how tissue can fix something like that, but it will be interesting. Thanks for the information. Will post an update when we figure it out. Worse case scenario is when I finish my DC TDY and finally get home, I send him one off of my parts bikes.

 

From what I read, the tissue paper was only used as a clearance measuring tool. I didn't see a "fix"....

[KIC]

I'm kinda confused too. But until I can see what everything looks like apart, maybe it will make sense.

[Yammer Dan]

Hey just a thought but Mud Daubers plugged the intake line on mine. Wouldn't do anything. Found by luck.

[KIC]

Hey just a thought but Mud Daubers plugged the intake line on mine. Wouldn't do anything. Found by luck.

 

Thanks Dan. That was one of my first checks. We checked every line, the dryer canister, the solenoids, and finally found that it was sucking air already into the pump, but zero coming out. So, the focus is now between the intake and the outlet. I had to return to DC for work but hopefully my son-in--law will figure it out when he tears it apart. If not, I will bring one from my parts bikes when I return on 10/17/15.

[Prairiehammer]

The tissue paper was used as a shim under the Teflon ring. Made the ring fit the cylinder bore more tightly; compensated for a worn ring.

[Vonwolf]

I thought about using paper, but I thought it might break down quickly when exposed to all the moisture in the air around here so I made my "shims" out of strips I cut from sandwich bags. I know there's a real possibility the plastic will melt and I'll have the same problem, probably even messier. I let it run for a long time and nothing seemed to come apart yet. If it does I think I'll try Teflon tape, I thought of that after I had everything back together. I haven't had a chance to see if it builds more pressure yet, but the ring is tighter and it seems to be stronger, with the age of these compressors you'd probobly have to go through a few before you found one that didn't have the same problem.