Get her up on the stand.

Ozlander · September 17, 2015

I found this at http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/venture%20tips.html

Some may find it useful.

Some of these are original, most are "gleaned" from others a cut-paste reminders... thanks to all

Install, a Gell Cell, or Dry Cell battery. THEY PUT OUT HIGHER CRANKING AMPS. (I recommend the Odyssey PC-680)

Reproduction ID stickers

Stickers - BDesigns http://www.bdesigns.ca Note vendor is VERY strict about anything that might contain a VIN.... You will need to provide detail info.

86 drive shaft U joint

We can still get them from Yamaha, for a mirror 335.00 plus when ever it gets here, but this included a yoke, so I had phoned around to some of the shops that work on drive shafts etc, and came across one who was very close, had the correct spider, but the bearing caps where wrong, and the fellow said he had got it in years ago for the Yamaha quad runners, after a few more shops, I had to go into the local Yamaha dealer in town here, and was about to order in the u joint and yoke, had he had jotted down all the parts numbers for the order, when I had asked what he had for the quad runners, well low and behold there it was, he had the spider, needle bearings and clips that all matched my bike part numbers. so instead of buying one for 335.00 it had cost me 130.00. so I hope the correct people read this and move the following info to the right location on here,

circlip--part # yam93440-20088-00 13d5

bearing 2hr #yam93399-99926-00 13a6

00spider #yam2hr-46187-00 13f3

Low Voltage

check across the batter with a accurate voltmeter to verify if the problem is in the charging system OR in the other wiring on the bike. Run the engine at about 3000 RPM, and the voltage at the battery should be 14.5V plus or minus .5V. It goes down at higher temperature, so if it's in the 80's or 90's, you may only get to 14.1 or so. If it's low, (remove the left body panel (side cover) and about half way up the vertical frame section behind the motor, you will find a plug that has 3 white (with a blue? stripe) wires....this is the connector between the alternator stator and the voltage regulator. Inspect this for burned wiring. If you find a lead that's been overheated, you can cut the plug out, and connect the wiring directly by twisting one stator lead and one regulator lead together, and then soldering them and taping them. If the plug and wiring looks OK, you can disconnect the plug, and then take the stator half and measure the AC voltage (at idle) between the 3 pairs (A&B, A&C, and B&C). It should be equal, and if one pair is obviously lower, you have a bad stator. The service manual has resistance checks for the stator as well as the rectifier section. The main fault is the low quality male-female blade connectors they chose, considering this alternator can pump 30 amps at peak (10 per winding) so with any corrosion of the connection, they heat up and melt something... so rather than splice around the connector, I just replaced them with a heavier type.

Another charging problem was caused by the main fuse link in the smaller red wire that attaches to the battery having it's link come loose. This link is in a plastic case and it's just to the left of the battery. Open it up and make sure these screws are snug. Unless you are pushing the START button the starter and solenoid are completely out of the picture. Unless the battery is charged, the bike will crank slow. Cleaning the ground connection at the right front corner of the motor is good as well as the connections at the solenoid.

Alternator Wattage

Fuel Pump .7amps = 8.4 watts

Stator 14.5 v = 30amp at 4-5000 rpm =420 watts, but only 20 amps at 2k rpm = 240 watts

"Rectifier" (not regulator) =26amp =312 watts so 30amp stator is not the limit. (p.32 of pdf manual)

Main fuse is 40 amp, 10 more than stator!

Brake caliper seals

The left front caliper is ~32mm, but the right front and the rear caliper are both ~34mm. I think this information is important for everyone that needs to rebuild the calipers:

1KT-W0047-00-00 (replaced by 1KT-25803-00) are the seals for the rear and front right.

1NL-W0047-00-00 are the seals for the front left.

This makes sense to me, as the front right and rear calipers are the main calipers for foot and front brake, but the left caliper is the slave for foot brake, so the pistons are smaller. This also means M8 marked pistons for rear and front right calipers and M7 pistons for front left caliper.

Another thing, about the number of seals in each kit if somebody knows also: the 1KT-25803-00 kit contains the seals for two pistons, so you need 2 kits for each caliper. The 1NL-W0047-00 contains also the seals for only two pistons? These things are not very clear on sites like partshark.com.

Rough idle !

The Venture is temperamental about her plugs. At the onset of the plug starting to break down, while you can feel the engine stumbling, you can't always see a problem when you pull the plugs. The lumpy idle is a characteristic of the Jason mod. The Mod should help give you a little more power and throttle response and sometimes better mileage at the expense of a slightly lumpy idle. Sometimes a problem could be with the sparkplugs even though they look OK. Its happened to me a number of times. You might want to try switching to NGK DPR8EV-9 or NGK DPR8EX-9.

These are fine wire electrode either gold tip (first no. I mentioned) or platinum tip (second no.) Early in the life of the Venture, if a customer complained about rough running, Yamaha informed dealers to substitute these plugs for the stock DPR8EA-9. Here's a quote from 9-1984. "Some Ventures have developed a low speed misfire, usually in higher gears and when accelerating from low speed. There are several things that can cause this. Improper synchronization, improper air/fuel mixture, air leaks between intake manifold and head, dirty plugs, or plug wire leakage are some of the trouble spots." A later tip from 11-84, refers to the use of the fine wire tip sparkplugs. I've used the NGK DPR8EV-9 in my '83, and they completely eliminate any misfire, and they last twice as long as the standard plugs. Also, it's hard to tell when your spark plug wires are breaking down. It's a cheap fix that can make a big difference. And if your air cleaner is dirty it can screw up your air/fuel ratio.

Replace the plug caps with the NGK 5k ohm caps and new plug wires. NGK plug caps are (style no.)XD05F Stock No.8072. The plug caps have a prong inside like a sheet metal screw, they just screw into the end of the plug wire. Just unscrew the old caps and screw in the new ones.

Long lasting Spark Plugs! Denso X24EPR-U9 or (newer) IX24B NGK DPR8EA-9 (normal) NGK DPR8EIX-9 (Iridium) Same as Champion RA6HC

Disconnect the fuel tank line prior to the fuel pump, run the carbs dry, then fill the carbs with Seafoam, Berrymans or Yamaha carb cleaner (comes in pint cans) until it tries to start. Let it sit 30 mins to couple of hours. Replace the filter while you are down there (behind left passenger peg assy.). when you get everything hooked up give it a try. some recommend draining the bowls at this point, I just rehook and go with fresh gas.

The plugs often can cause rough running and when you pull them they look fine. You can't tell by looking at them, so first thing to do is replace the plugs. Cleaning the carb slides with a spray cleaner is a good idea, as John Legare said above. Do the easiest fix first. If this doesn't get all 4 slides moving about the same, you might have a vacuum leak in the carb slide diaphragm. After you remove the side panels, you'll see that each carb has a sort of round plate on it facing out, with 4 screws in each plate. Originally, one of these screws was a security screw that looked like an allen head screw with a dimple in the middle. Since yours is an '85, the security screws have probably been removed long ago, but just thought I'd mention it. under that round plate is the slide diaphragm, a rubber membrane that is attached to the slide in the middle. I've had the plastic collar that holds the diaphragm to the slide come off. You can put it back on and use some gas resistant silicone sealant to keep it in place. But what usually happens is the diaphragms develop pinholes in them from age. You can try sealing these pinholes with gas resistant silicone sealer (a thin coat, don't gob it on) but that is just a temporary fix. replacing the slide/diaphragm assembly can be expensive if you do all 4 like I finally did, but it makes a world of difference on how your Venture runs. They all need it eventually. I think if you look in the boneyard ads on this sight you can find some, or do a search for "carb slides", we've talked a lot about them in the past. $40 - $50 bucks a slide, much more through a Youmaha dealer, like over $100. By the way, there is a long coil spring under each round plate, so don't let the plate fly out after you remove the last screw. Hold the plate in place when you remove the last screw, the ease it off slowly.

With the air filter out, fire it up and "blip" the throttle a few times. Crack it and let off. Do this while using a bright flashlight to watch all 4 slides. If all 4 are NOT dancing around and don't respond fairly equally you need to pull off the carb covers and inspect the slide / diaphragm assembly. Hold each up to a bright light and look for tears, perforations and pin holes. Inspect the plastic slide for hairline cracks. If you find any... replace the slide / diaphragm assembly. Make sure the needle isn't scored and is clean. The vent hole in the cover needs to be open (shot of carb clean will work). Make sure you sync the carbs.

Check / replace the plugs. Also check the plug wires... unscrew the ends from the wire and see if it's green and corroded. You can nip off a little to get to good wire. Same with the coil end of the plug wires.

I used a set of Autozone lifetime plug wires for a 1993 Suzuki Swift 4 cyl. Use the plug boot that comes with the new wires, and cut the other end off to the correct length. Reuse the coil caps and O-Ring. Use a dab of silicon O-ring lube. The coils have a knurled plastic cap with a hole in the center. The wire goes through the hole in the cap, through an O-ring and pushes into the coil "tower". When you snug down the cap, it compresses the O-ring and that holds / seals the wire in. No "metal thing"... just cut the wire off square and push it in. I think there's a pointed contact in the coil that shoves into the end of the wire. By the way.. the original wires are still available from the dealer if you wanted to go that route.

Actually the mixtures screws can affect not only idle, but low speed up to about 2000 rpm.

NOTE: A rich problem gets worse as the engine heats up. If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm drops below the set idle speed, then rises up to the set idle speed, the low speed mixture screws are probably set too rich: try 1/2 turn in, to lean the idle mixture.

NOTE: A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up. If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up" before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm, the mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm!

Always Sync the carbs

Hook up the 4 tube vacuum gauge and adjust the left for balance (1-2) then over on the right, adjust the #3-#4 with the rear adjust screw and finally balance the left to right sides with the right side front adjust...

Most running is at less than 1/4 throttle.. where the idle jet screw owns the road. the book says to use a 2-gas analyzer in the exhaust...In the old school, before emission and gas analysers were invented, we used to hook a tach up and adjust the carb air screws to get the highest, steadiest reading we could achieve. Or the other way we would sometimes do it, and this should work on our motorcycles, is use the vacuum gauge or mercury tube, which is what I prefer, hooked up to each individual carb,one at a time, and adjust that one carb's air screw to the highest steadiest reading that can be achieved on the tubes scale. I haven't tried that just yet, but I will. I'll just bet cha that the motor will start, idle, and run so much nicer. Once you've done that, you can resync the carbs for the final touch. Dave Budrewicz E-mail Address: vze2hzk5@netscape.net

Pilot circuit (zero to 1/8 throttle)-

The mixture is lean if:

the bike surges while holding a steady throttle at about 4000 rpm in second gear.

there is excessive back-firing on closed-throttle overrun.

the throttle is lightly 'blipped' and the idle speed 'hangs up' before dropping to the set idle speed (set the idle to 1000 rpm to start).

Correction: turn the pilot screws OUT 1/2 turn or so. If the pilot screws end up turned out very much more than three and one half turns total (stock is about 2 1/2 turns), you should use larger pilot jets.

The mixture is rich if:

the plugs are excessively soot-ed up or fouled.

the throttle is lightly 'blipped' and the idle speed drops below the set idle speed before rising up to the set speed.

Correction: turn pilot screws IN 1/2 turn.

Running rough?... I think, first, check the air filter, be sure that it is clean.

Next, the carb mixtures. Common pre set is 2 1/2 turns out from gentle bottom (don't push too hard to find bottom, it is a needle valve and you DON'T want to damage the needle or the seat in the carb body). Should be between 1 1/2 turns and 3 1/2 turns on each carb. I tune my carbs with a digital tach, turn each idle mixture screw for peak rpm and then go back through again, then I turn each one OUT 1/16 turn to set it 'slightly rich'... the healthy side to be on.

It could be float level too high, but seems like it wouldn't be all the way around. It could be a too cool sparkplug (Yamaha recommends an "8" range plug, that is what I run). I'd say check the air cleaner and mixture, and see what happens. And a LOT of troubles have been found to be air leaks at the rubber connection of the lower carb manifold or age cracks on the sync blocking nipples below each carb. The

lower half of the lower rubber carb manifolds have a metal insert for mount integrity and a lot of our bikes develop cracks near the bottom on the outside... this is almost always cosmetic and NOT a leak source, if it's a bother, use some black RTV and smear it in the crack and wipe off excess.

Compression Checks!

Compression specifications in repair manuals assume an engine in "as built" condition, meaning no carbon deposits or wear and tear. The manual also assumes a cold engine with no spark plugs installed and no intake restriction (throttles wide open).

Wide open throttle and slow crankshaft speed allows for almost 100% volumetric efficiency. The cylinders have time to get a full charge of air at atmospheric pressure.

No other sparkplugs installed means you don't have the starter-motor getting slowed down by the mechanical resistance of the other 3 cylinders making compression.

Second; let's discover the source of the compression variance. Anything more than a 10% variation is cause for further investigation.

Loss of cylinder pressure during a compression test can be attributed to 5 possible sources;

1. A bent rod. Least likely, as you have not mentioned a significant vibration while running. A bent rod would move the piston down in the bore. It would have the same up-down travel but not rise to maximum hieght in the cylinder, effectively reducing the compression ratio of that cylinder.

2. A tight or burned exhaust valve. Possible but not probable, as you have not mentioned a "chuffing" from the left exhaust while running. Also, you have said that the right-side exhaust is hotter than the left. If the problem were the exhaust valve, then still-burning exhaust would be sneaking past the valve on the power stroke, elevating the temperature of the exhaust on the left side of the bike and would almost certainly cause a "chuffing" or intermittant "pftt pftt" type noise from the exhuast.

3. Worn rings. Also possible, and more probable than the exhaust valve. But again, you haven't mentioned blue smoke (indicating burning oil) when started cold, nor large quanities of liquid oil pooled in the air filter housing. If the rings or cylinder wall were significantly worn then the cylinder pressure would be pushing down into the crankcase. With a sealed vent system, that pressure would all be venting through the breather hose into the filter housing, carrying with it oil vapors, which would condense into liquid oil in the housing.

4. Flat cam lobe. Possible and as probable as rings. A flat lobe doesn't allow the valve to open as far or as long, resulting in "short changing" the affected cylinder of a full charge of air. Insufficient air charge means there's not enough molecules of air to pack into the same space as the rest of the cylinders equalling a lower peak pressure. You haven't metioned a sharp, repetative metallic "ticking" while the engine is running that increases frequency with rpm.

5. Tight or burned intake valve. Possible and highly probable. You've reported the smell of raw gas when starting and, if I remember correctly, one of your carb slides was melted. Was it the slide for #2? If the valve were tight or burned, as the piston were on it's up-stroke it would tend to push the air/fuel charge back out of the cylinder (raw gas odor when starting and if it were still burning when it happened, a melted slide). Then there would be considerably less fuel to burn in that cylinder. Less fuel equals less heat, QED; colder exhaust on the left side of the bike.

My recommendation would be to do a "wet" compression test on that cylinder to rule out a ring problem. Put 5 (five) cc's of motor oil down the spark plug hole. Spin the motor over for a few revolutions to distribute it, then check the compression again. If there is a significant increase in pressure (like up to 210-ish psi) you have a ring problem. The oil acts as a temporary sealant on worn rings and compression will return to normal for a few strokes. If there isn't a significant increase in pressure, it's probably valves.

If it's what I suspect, try adjusting them first. When you do, adjust #2 intake a little on the loose side (.001" - .002" looser than specs). If the valve isn't really burned and is just tight, there will almost definitely be some carbon deposits on the sealing surface of the valve and seat. Adjusting it a little loose will allow for those carbon deposits coming off and give you close to the right clearance when they're gone. Ride it for a few 100 miles, then recheck compression. If all is well... great! If not... it's valve job time.

Just like on the carb problem... Try the easiest stuff first.

Get her up on the stand ! Don't fight the bike. Increase the suspension height FIRST!

Don't fight the bike. Stand on the left side of the bike facing forward. Make sure the bike is upright. (for myself, I turn the front wheel slightly to the right). Grasp the saddle grab bar with your right hand and stamp on the pivot arm with your right foot. Apply a strong, steady downward pressure with your right leg and rock the bike lightly rearward.

Remember... don't try to lift the bike. Let the pivot action of the center stand do the work.

With a little practice this will become one smooth motion and the bike will lift with very little effort.

Here is the trick. Push the center stand down with your right foot and get it towards the heel of your foot while you face slightly forward. Grab the passenger grab rail with your right hand. Steady the handlebars with your left hand on the left grip and then stand up on the center stand ear with most of your weight while pulling BACK and slightly UP on the passenger grab rail. Unless you are muscle bound like an NFL player you can't begin to lift a Venture one handed. This was the center stand acts like a pry bar and they go up very easy! I can get mine on the center stand with nary a grunt. To prove my point pull your Venture front wheel first up to a wall with the front tire just touching. Put it up on the center stand and you will see about a 5 inch gap between the tire and the wall when you have it up. The bike seat will only be raised about 2 inches.

On my '83, I use this method: left hand on left grip, right hand on the saddlebag crash bar, right foot on centerstand...... roll the bike backward while lifting up on the crash bar, and step on the centerstand with some authority. it'll pop right up. Use all that inertia to your advantage! Using this method, it doesn't take any more muscle than my GT380.

Of course, i weigh in at around 250, so I have a little advantage. :-)

Also, I found out that by grabbing the rail you can drag the back end around to slip it into those tight spots in a moving van! No... really! (grunt grunt heave)

Lifting up a "downed" Venture

I am going to tell you how to do this assuming the bike is down on its left side.

First, hit the kill switch!

Next, turn off the gas if necessary.

Make sure the bike is in gear if you can get to it. If the bike is not in gear and you cannot get it in gear the technique becomes more difficult butt can still be done.

Standing with your butt toward the seat, stoop down and with your right hand take the left grip.

When you grab the grip, pull it until it is as close to the tank as possible. With your left hand find something sturdy to grab hold of under the seat. The closer your left hand is to your body the better.

You place your butt mid way on the edge of the seat. This is CRUCIAL.

The placement of your butt too high or too low on the seat will not give you the leverage angle. You are pushing the bike with your butt and upper legs. You will have to pull up with your arms a bit butt mostly you will be pushing the bike up with your legs.

You must have good traction under your feet or your feet will slip. If there is gravel under your feet sweep it away with your boots until you get dirt. Same for grass. Be careful not to push the bike over the other side ;-)

Once you have the bike up, carefully put the side stand down and lower the bike to it.

If you can't get to the side stand with the heel of your boot, turn carefully and grab both grips then put the bike on side or center stand.

The process is the same if the bike is on it's right side. Editor's note: But your hands are reversed, of course. Your LEFT HAND is on the RIGHT GRIP and your RIGHT HAND grabs UNDER THE SEAT. It is easier to get it into gear. Remember to put the side stand out first so that you can ease the bike onto it once it is upright.

If you feel like there is no way this bike is going up like this, then move the position of your butt. If that doesn't work try changing the flex of your knees. I try not to flex my knees too much to begin with. Be careful. Often when you get the angle just right the bike goes up like it's made of paper. Adrenaline tends to push the bike over the other side ;-)

That is all. It is so simple. Just seems difficult until you actually do it.

Use Synthetic Oil!

Amsoil 10W-40 for motorcycles

Mobil 1 TriSyn automotive 15W-50

Fuel Filters

NAPA 3007 Napa 3011

Wix 33011

Purolator F100 24

Oil Filters

STP # SMO-02

Napa # 4933

WIX # 24933 4+

Fram # CH6002

Oil Change

1-the oil filter is on the front of the engine, just under a black frame cross-brace. It is in a housing w/a 12mm bolt I think DUH! in the middle of it.

Make DAMN sure you look at the way the filter cartridge goes into the can, and do not lose the THIN FLAT WASHER (#5) that everyone else loses. You will see it sticking to the end of the filter itself when you take it apart. Nothing hard about it, just pay attention to the way it comes apart so as to put it back the same way.

2-the oil drain plug is obviously underneath in the oil pan. It is 19mm I think DUH! w/a phillips head screw in the middle of it. Don't worry about that screw w/regards to oil changes. Hey there's a drain at the secondary drive case too. It's the allen bolt at six o'clock by the left drivers footrest. It has a copper washer on it. If you put in four quarts and don't drain this area. You'll have overfilled by 8 ounces.

3-on the right side of the motor (referenced as if setting on bike) is a black plastic cover held in place by 2 screws. Behind this plastic plate is the oil filler hole..

4-the oil level site glass is located on the lower right hand side of the engine kinda down askew right of the water pump.

Bike should be up on center stand on a good solid level surface and allowed to set there for a while to obtain an accurate oil level reading. Level should be maintained between the 2 marks.

Capacity is right at 1/2 a gnats eyelash under 4 quarts w/an oil and filter change. I would suggest when refilling, add 3 quarts, run it to circulate oil thru system. Shut down the motor and allow time for the level to settle out, then gradually add enough oil to bring it just up to the full mark. Don't overfill. All this is to be done w/bike up on center stand.

Copper exhaust couplers

I went to a lumber store and got a piping sleeve that joins 2 pipes together, try to find one that doesn't have a ring around the inside to separate the 2 pipes but get one that only has dimples in the middle. I have used both but the dimpled ones are easier to work with as you have to grind off the ring or dimples.

Then buy a short piece of 1 1/2" OD copper pipe, cut it to the same length as the sleeve connector, slip it inside and there you are.

I made mine a few months ago and they work just great with no leaks.

Finding Parts

I was looking at parts for my '93 on Partsfish last weekend.

Tip: Instead of Partsfish, Youmaha.com now has all the fiche with better quality and view controls, and the associated items list has the part numbers (this site also has late model shop manual search tools, but the 1st generation bikes are too old). Then, if needed, you go to PartsFish to get their price, which is/may be discounted, and place the order. Youmaha's site is the primary one I use to look up parts. But I have found that partsfish and bike bandits do not reference the parts correctly and you need to verify both sites to make sure you get the right part. ie item 54 on youmaha's site may be for the assembly which includes 4 or 5 pieces but on partsfish item 54 may be listed incorrectly as only one of the components and they have item 51 as the assembly.

But the good news is that Yamaha said that they will be adding the older bikes to the site as well. They do not have an estimated date.

Replacement Hose #3 from lower radiator to plastic cover on thermostat housing

Yamaha part #26H-12578-00-00 = AutoZone part #A71651 (need to trim just a little off each end) or Advanced Auto part#A71651

Replacement Radio Switches

Get 'em from Mouser Electronics; http://www.mouser.com $.26 each

Mouser p/n 688-SKHHAM, manufacturer p/n SKHHAMA010 6.0x6.0x5.0mm

Replacement radiator caps and thermostat

a STant number for rad caps -- listed at 11227. NAPA# BK 7032443 in 13lbs

But a thermostat is proving a little harder. In the same tech pages, it listed a NAPA superstat #541080, and also a AutoZone 471-180 or 160.

Grease that rearend !

http://www.magma.ca/~macmarms/rpr_ds.htm

I finally bit the bullet and put grease fittings in the rear suspension on my 83. I have had the bike about 8 years and about 5 years ago took all of the rear suspension apart and greased it. Since then there have been periods of time that it would start squeaking and I would just get under it as best I could and spray WD40 around the hinge points. It would help some, but not for very long. I had another suspension assembly that connects to the rear shock so I compared it to the one on the bike, noting where the best place for the zert fittings to be placed. I then took it apart, removing the bolts and shafts. I drilled the holes using a 7/32nd drill (after a smaller pilot hole) and tapped it for the fittings. I was concerned that the fitting would extend far enough in to the housing to hit the shaft, but in all cases, there was enough room. With the bike on the center stand, I put a 2X4 under the rear tire. I then removed the mufflers, and all the bolts to the assembly. The only bolt that I had a problem is the front one as it hits the exhaust coming out of the collector. With some gentle prying, I was able to get it out. I was missing some of the spacers and rubber seals on the unit that I put the fittings in so when I removed my old one, I laid then side by side and transferred them over after wiping them off. Before putting the front bolt in, I ground off one of the 6 points on the bolt head and it slid in easy and an 18mm socket still worked fine. The reason I put the 2X4 under the rear tire was to lift up slightly on the tire to be able to remove and replace the bolts at the rear of the assembly, as they are under load from the shock. Just be careful that you do not lift enough on the 2X4 to cause the bike to move forward off the center stand.

This does not take long to do and the hardest part may be to remove the mufflers, if they have not been off in a long time.

I believe most grease fittings are 1/4-28 NF so that is an easy tap to find at a hardware store if you do not have one or cannot borrow one from a machinist friend as I did. This was really an easy fix and it was real nice to put the grease gun on it and be able to grease it. I just wish I had done this a long time ago as it sure did seem to make the bike ride better.

Other Grease Points

Other than the splines where the wheel comes off of the shaft drive and the swing arm fittings are there any other points that need to be taken care of?

Yes. On the spline side of your wheel, you will see a collar sticking out of that grease seal. Pull the collar out and you will see a needle type bearing pressed into the hub of the wheel which that collar rides on. Liberally pack that bearing with axle grease. Then slide that collar back into place. Pay attention as to how it comes out of there so you put it back in the same way. The tapered side of that collar faces the outboard side of the hub. The seal rides on that tapered part of that collar. That little tip applies to ALL the ventures,83-04. More a problem on the '83-'85, but still a good area to grease is the drive shaft splines in the u-joint up by the engine. There is a grease fitting on the bell housing, but it doesn't actually get any grease anywhere near where it's needed...

It's also highly likely that the drive pins in the wheel hub are dry. There's a big circlip that holds the splined drive hub to the wheel (you'll have to wipe off the dirty grease to find it). Pop that circlip and the splined part of the wheel pulls straight out, there are five pins that ride in rubber isolation bushings in the wheel, grease those pins, the bushings they ride in and the hub itself too.

Check that suspension pressure

Most leak as they just sit for a while. Have at least 40psi in that rear tire if you are running Dunlops K491s and probably about 36 psi in

the front tire....

Generally the suspension should NOT have to be re-adjusted each time you ride but given the sheer age of the

bike, that can't be guaranteed anymore because of seals/o-rings/etc dry rotting and leaking, etc, over time..

Riding two up definitely requires fork and shock pressures on the higher side of the equation...

Test that TCI.

1. With The Engine Off, Key Off, The Small Plug On The Left Houses The Pickup Coil Wiring. The Orange wire On The left Of The Plug is The Coil Commons Or Center Taps. You Can Place The Black Lead Of Your Ohm Meter On Either this terminal or ground And Measure The Pickup Coil Resistance On The Other Four Leads Should Be Around 115 Ohms Or So On Each Terminal. If All Four Of The Pickup Coil Measurements Are Good You Have Just Verified The TCI Inputs Are Not Shorted, the Wiring Harness And Quick Disconnect Plug Is Good, And The Pickup Coils O.k.

2. The Right Side Plug Has TCI Outputs To The Coil Packs. Take Your Ohm Meter And Check Placing The Black Lead On The Red/White wire This Is The Switch Ignition B+ Input. And Measure The Coil Pack Resistance To Each Of The Output Wires I Believe They Are White, Orange, Gray, And Yellow. Each Should Measure About 3 Ohms Or So. You Have Just Verified The Outputs Are Not Open Or Shorted, The Coil Pack Wiring ,Quick Disconnect Plugs And Primary Coils Are Good.

3. Now With The Engine Running And The Volt Meter On Volts Selection Place The Black Lead On The Red White B+ Wire And Look At Each One Of The Output Wires The White, Orange, Yellow And Gray Wires. You Should See About 1.5 Volts At Idle. What You Are Measuring Here Is The Average Voltage Difference Between The Red/White Power Source And The Outputs As They Momentarily Fire To Ground Producing The Excitement For The Coil Pack To Operate. if You Rev Up The Engine The Voltage Will Swing Higher Just Like A Tach As The Firing Pulses To Ground Are Happening More Frequently. If You Have 0 Volts On One Or More Of Your Outputs Then Those Internal TCI Circuits Are Not Working. The Digital Voltmeter Cannot Track Fast Enough To See The Firing Pulse But The Average Voltage Measured Means It Is Happening.

4. There Are More Things To Verify Coil Pack Output Resistance About 13 K Ohms To Ground, plug Wires, Side Stand Sensors, .TCI Ground And Such But This Should Help.

The 83 is unique, requiring the 26H-82305-10-00 (26H series)

The 84-89 all use the 41R-82305-11-00 (41R series)

The 90-93's transition to the CDI 3JJ-82305-11-00 (3JJ series)

Earlier 41R units had 8 fragile, blue and gray glass power diodes protecting the output amplifier transistor...

when the diodes failed, it took out that output circuit, scratch one plug firing. An easy fix on good units, change them to 1N4001 types.

Got a battery drain?

"How much IOD (ignition off draw) does the bike have"? If I remember right the maximum should be no more than 20 milliamps... most run around 5 to 10 milliamps for the clock and the radio station preset memory... if you have an 85 or later and see a higher draw, check the switch on the courtesy light in the trunk, these can go bad a drain a battery quick, I disconnect the Johnson plug (bullet) at the switch and only hook it up when desired (problem prevention).

Plastic fairing repair.

A good way to stop a crack from "running" is to drill a small hole just beyond each end of the crack. When the crack reaches the drillout, the stress is released over the area and it stops. "Devcon Plastic Weld" is an excellent product (thanks Jason M!) for doing a permanent repair on the crack and drillouts. The material that makes up the fairing is actually ABS plastic, and having anything repeatedly banging (stressing) against it at a concentrated point will cause a crack. A better alternative is a plastic welder. You need an air compressor. Just a word of caution, we own a plastic welder and went to school on how to use it , they work great but you must use an ABS rod that is pure, the ones from China are not pure. The weld is very strong and will hold, you can sand it smooth and it is almost invisible to see, you of course weld on the back side of your work. Can fill holes and do a decent job on your work. Went to school in Orlando, Fl. They sell the welder also, found ours at an estate sale, picked two up for 45.00. The welder is a Seelye Porta-welder made by Seelye Plastics Inc. If you go http://www.seelye.com I think you can find

out info, not sure on this part and am one winging it so hard to work at computer. Found the correct site for the welder:http://www.seelyeinc.com finally found the tape that was given to at the factory. The office is in Ocoee,Fl.,which is outside Orlando,Fl. on the west side. the technique is called "Trermoplastic Welding" for good rods...

http://www.urethanesupply.com

http://www.automotive-tools-supply.com/40002_A.html

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=4006970&storeId=6970&langId=-1&productId=384313

http://www.urethanesupply.com/6055.html

Now that I've looked at several different brands and models, my question is: Airless or with the air control? Seems to me that one uses the air to blow the heat on the plastic to melt it and the airless ones you actually apply the iron directly to the plastic to melt it. Also the ones that use air, I'm guessing that, nothing touches the plastic except the plastic welding rods, no hot iron tips or metal touches the plastic. Which one would to better? According to what I've read, the hot air ones you just melt a bead of plastic on the crack. The airless ones, you use the iron to melt a V grove over the crack and then fill the V groove with plastic. Having some metal welding experience this is typically how two flat pieces are welded (steel) by grinding a V groove and filling the groove with the welding rod so the part can be grinded smooth and you don't see the weld afterwards. If you just welded a bead over the crack, you can't sand the weld flat with the piece because you'd sand the entire weld bead off.

Surface prep is the key with most every repair...

I've used scrap ABS and a soldering gun with a flat tip to melt the crack together on small repairs with pretty good success, but at the Oshkosh Airshow several years ago I bought a product that (I believe) is simply SuperGlue and fiberglass cloth and baking soda. In their demo, They cleaned about an inch on both sides of the crack, laid down the fiberglass tape, sprinkled on the baking soda, then flooded the area with thin SuperGlue. The baking soda "fires" off the SuperGlue with lots of heat for bonding. Modelers use baking soda / super glue to fill in wide cracks between joints. Its sandable, but very hard.

There needs to be some kind of backing material like fiberglass tape or screen wire on these flat surfaces to hold them together... I doubt that glue alone will give a permanent repair.

OK , I'll step in here. I have had great success using fiberglass on my left side lower. Something came up and whacked the underside of the lower and took out a nice chunk. You can't see it so I tried fiberglass.

I was really surprised how good the adhesion was, and I used the glass from my model aircraft hobby which is very fine weave. I am totally happy with the repair. The crack went right up to the lower bolt and it has held together all season.

I am even thinking about reinforcing the other side as a preventive measure. Anybody who is concerned about the thin plastic can certainly beef up the pieces this way.

Cassette slipping?

Check the capstan for junk and check the belt. It is an 8c X 9.2 It was $3.45 . There are like 3 belts in there but this is the one that caused the slipping problem

Pulling the cassette deck

The amp needs pin6 and 7 shorted on the cassette cable to "listen" to the radio, if you just jerk the cassette, the amp will keep "listening" for cassette audio.

Slow Start?

Although many accuse the wiring, my early slow turn when cold and hesitancy when hot was due to a worn out solenoid... these are easy to jump across, just remember to put her in neutral as this step WILL turn the motor over!!

It's classic for the Venture to be temperamental about starting when very cold or when hot and recently shut down. Most of this is due to small wire diameter and only two brush starter. The V-Max uses 4 brushes and is a direct upgrade. You may find either upgrading to the VMax 4-brush starter or cleaning up your existing starter (and upgrading to the 4-gage cables) will solve your problem. When sitting on the bike it's located just to the left side of the battery. There's a short (about 6")length of cable connecting the plus side of the battery to the solenoid. The ground cable is 36 in. , the solenoid to starter is 32 in.

I saw 4gauge wire at Walmart this weekend in the battery dept., comes in different lengths. They have the wrong sized ends on them but they sell the right size ones right beside it. You'll have to cut, crimp & or solder them on. But they did not have the exact length but you can find a place to hide the loose wire. The eyes, that are used on the wire ends are called STA-CONS

Paint touchup?

http://www.color-rite.com/selmake.cfm

1984 Primary Color: Alluvial Gold Color-Rite #5305 No base

Secondary Color: Silky Gold Color-Rite #5310 Base 1200

Secondary Color: Romanesque Crimson 01W 5150 1760

1986 Primary Color: Urushi Black Color-Rite #5320 No base

Secondary Color: Marshall Gold Color-Rite #5683

Mix

84 Primary Alluvial Gold QT T/U PNT-83000-KO-EM PNT-83000-TO-EM

Secondary Silky Gold Qrt B/C Qrt C/C T/U PNT-84000-KO-EM PNT-83000-KO-AA PNT-83000-TO-AA

Carquest Paint Specialties mixed the Aurora Silver. Also had the correct pin striping.

1200

1983 black TK Sparkle crimson ( single color )

1983 red TK New Ruby Red/ Romanesque Crimson

1983 gold TDK Alluvial Gold/ Silky Gold

1984 gold DL/DK Alluvial Gold/ Silky Gold

1984 red L/KC2 Bright Cherry Red ( single color )

1984 blue L/KC2 Orion Silver / Aurora Silver

1984 red DL/DK New Ruby Red /Romanesque Crimson

1985 brown DN Glorius Maxi Brown / Marshall Gold

1300

1986 gold DS/DT - - like 1200 gold - -

1986 brown DS/DT Copper Brown/ Birch Brown

1986 brown DS/DT Elegant Brown/ Imperial Brown

1986 black DS/DT Urushi Black/ Marshall Gold

1987 blue T ? ( blue ) / Orion Silver

1987 grey T Aurora Silver/ ( ? )

1987 gold DS/DT Alluvial Gold/ Silky Gold

1987 brown DS/DT Copper Brown/ Birch Brown

1987 brown DS/DT Elegant Brown/ Imperial Brown

1987 black DS/DT Urushi Black/ Marshall Gold

1988 silver U Salt Lake Silver/ Anthony Gray

1988 white DU Creamy White/ Ceramic Ivory

1988 red DU Graceful Maroon Metallic/ Miaby Maroon

1989 red DW Graceful Maroon Metallic/ Miaby Maroon

1989 blue DW Dull Blue Cocktail 1 / Dark Grayish Blue Metallic

1990 red DA Velvet Maroon/ Graceful Maroon Metallic

1990 blue DA Dull Blue Cocktail 1 / Dark Grayish Blue Metallic

1991 red DB Velvet Maroon / Graceful Maroon Metallic

1991 black DB New Black Blue/ Bluish Black

1992 blue DD Star Blue Metallic/ Entice Blue Metallic

1993 blue DE - - like1992 - -

Exhaust Collector Connections

I took my exhaust collector off my 1st Gen ride and rewelded it as per instructions found on this site but the copper gaskets were no good so I ordered 2 new gaskets from the dealer at a cost of $31.00 CDN with $20.00 down. Two weeks later when I called to see where they were I found out that the dealer had declared bankruptcy. (Go figure) so then I decided to make my own. I went to a local plumber supply and bought a 1.5 inch ID copper pipe X 12 inches long. I cut 4 pieces 1 inch long and slit 2 of them so that they opened up. I then slid the cut one over the uncut piece and then soldered up the cut to the inside piece as shown in the pic. They ended up exactly the same dimensionally as a new one. Namely 1.5" ID X 1.75" OD X 1" long.

OK, I found a way to make these gaskets now.

I went to "The Building Box" here in Windsor and I got 2 sleeve connectors as shown in the picture. These work beautifully as there is NO soldering now required. The fit is perfect and once these are installed they shouldn't be coming out. The sleeves are perfect on the OD and ID and the length is also right on at one inch long. This is better than my 1st idea with the soldering. The one on the left has been put together while the one on the right is shown with the inner pipe just starting to be pushed in.

FWIW: I'll give you guys a little tip when putting those gaskets back in. Don't over tighten them and NEVER SIEZE the daylights out of them on both sides and they'll come apart pretty easy the next time you take 'em apart and without damaging 'em. I've done that to all my scooters and a bunch of others that I've worked on, and haven't had to replace one yet. The ones that I did replace were either put on there by someone else that didn't neversieze them or they had been on there since the beginning of time. LOL!! And incase you're wondering, they seal up just fine.

Chroming Plastic

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Our Mission

Offer an exclusive process for copper-nickel-chrome triple Electroplating of all types of Rigid Plastic including Fiberglass. WE HAVE ALSO BEEN DOING POT METAL RESTORATIONS SINCE 1976. COME ON IN AND TAKE A LOOK AT SOME SAMPLES OF OUR WORK AND MORE

Check for 2nd gear problems

The second gear was fixed by Yamaha in 1985 built after serial no. 0001413. This would be good information for anyone that is looking to buy a older venture. Also how to tell if there has been a stator replacement. The mechanic was told to use a prick punch on the left side transfer case next to the shifter. There is a circle cast in the case number where they did this. I believe the prick mark was placed just below the Serial Number to indicate overhauled 2nd gear issues but this was NOT standard.

I don't know if anyone has addressed this or not, but I am sure that many guys would like to know how much time they may have left or if they should buy an 83-85 Venture with the 2nd gear problem.

To check for thrust washer wear, you can easily remove the (left rear) transmission drive axle engine cover (just behind the stator cover and in front of the rear shock dampening adjuster). Measure the distance between the end of the axle and the thrust washer (I used the end of a sliding caliper gauge). My very worn thrust washer was about 3.2mm from the end of the shaft (second gear had been gone for about 15000km.

My new shaft has about 4.4mm with no apparent wear. I would imagine that if you are showing some wear on the washer and it will be visible when you look at the point where it is split (there are two halves making up one thrust washer), then you do not have too much time left. I would guess that it would start slipping out at about 3.8mm. There is not much overlap anyway and 1mm of wear will certainly cause it to slip.

I bought a second hand engine for my VR and it was reassuring to see no wear on the washer or drive axle. This is also a good way to know if you will need the drive axle or not before you tear it down. Once the drive axle starts wearing it is toast as it will chew up a new thrust washer.

Just thought I would pass on that thought since there is no reason to not know how your transmission is doing these days or what you may be buying into.

Bleed the brakes

The left front caliper is hooked to the REAR brake. There is a bleed screw up on the steering head for 86 and newer. Bleed this one first then go to the left front caliper and then the rear last. Use a Mity Vac to suck the fluid thru and have a second person monitor the reservoir to make sure you don't run dry. It is very small. It will take about a bottle of brake fluid to do this as there are yards of brake line to go thru.

A good (better) replacement are the blue star calipers of R1/R6 98- 2001 and I think R6 go a couple extra years past that.

Carb Diaphragms

I ordered quantity 4 of the diaphragms from the Hitching Post for $49 each. I had forgotten that I asked http://www.cycle-parts.com to find out how much they could get them for, and the price was 42.30!! Next time I look for OEM parts, and am not in a hurry, I'll check these guys. or...Give Sloan's a call @ 1-866-346-3201 (toll free). Ask for Manny in parts (extension 1064). (TIM @ 1035... $47.90/1984 $48.25/1986) Anyone there can help you, Manny is just exceptionally friendly and helpful.

Diaphragm Assemblies - Part #1FK-14940-09-00 Retail - $49.95

I paid - $47.65 I found that the Hitching Post in St. Paul (where I used to live) has them for 49 bucks.

Mid State Marina and Cycle 304-765-7325 ask for Chris and say "Skid" sent ya...

Front Spring Repair

Spring Replacement:

The front springs aren't too bad a job. You have to take the handle bars loose to get to the plugs in the top of the shocks. Pop out the plastic piece where the keys lay. Remove the screw and the plastic cover can be removed. There is a clinch bolt and some other bolts that have to be removed and the handle bars can be moved aside. Put the bike on the center stand and lift the front of the bike just enough to take the pressure off the front wheel and suspension. Next release all the air in the front suspension and then remove the little drain screws in the bottom of each fork to drain them. Then remove the plugs in the top of the forks. You need a 17 mm allen wrench for that. Once the plugs are removed work the forks up and down a bit to get out any excess, once the oil is drained, put the little drain screws back in. Because you won't be able to get every last drop of old oil out of the forks when you drain them, it is much better to follow the "fork oil height" method rather than trying to add a specific number of ounces:

1. Fully and gently compress forks with springs removed.

2. Add oil until level is 5.5 inches from the top of the tubes.

3. Gently compress/decompress the forks a few times to get the new oil worked in and the air worked out.

4. Fully and gently compress the forks one last time and add oil as necessary to bring the level to 5.5 inches below the top of the tubes.

5. Decompress the forks. Install the Progressive springs, they can go either way just make them match. The PVC spacer is typically 1 inch. You can cut this down to get a lower ride height. When you are ready to put it back together, the next trick is to install the plugs against the spring pressure. You have to be very careful that you do not cross thread the aluminum plugs. Do not force it if it gets tight too quick.

I just installed Progressive springs on my '86. I had the cap bolt, cap, spacer (metal tube with a piece of black plastic on one end), washer, and then the spring. The metal tube DOES NOT go back in, chuck it or it will haunt your garage forever.

Having said that, when I dropped the Progressive springs in, they fit just fine. Instead of using the cheesy PVC spacer that came with the new springs, I put the OEM washer--upside down--on top of the Progressive spring and then put the OEM metal cap on top of that. That gave me about 1" of preload. All said, the stuff stuck up above the opening of the tube about 1". I had to compress everything about 1" before the cap bolt could engage the threads. Everything looked normal to me. It was explained to me by Progressive's tech support that 1" of preload means with the fork fully extended, the top of the spring should be flush with the top of the fork tube. Insert a 1" spacer (I inverted the "cap" with o-ring which is aproximatly 1"). Preload does not include the 17mm allen 'plug' at the top of the fork tube.

For standard springs: You can now remove and replace the springs and put the new fork oil in thru those plug holes in the top of the forks. Lift the old ones out and put the new ones in. Just follow the instructions when ya get the new springs. PROGRESSIVE seems to be what everyone is using. Each fork holds 13.5 ounces of oil. Not that big of a job. Just don't cross thread those plugs when you're puttin 'em back in. The book says to put in 13.5 ounces. I use 10w fork oil. When you are ready to put it back together, the next trick is to install the plugs against the spring pressure. You have to be very careful that you do not cross thread the aluminum plugs. Do not force it if it gets tight too quick. Once you get it back together and add air, you may have a slight leak in the valve stem. I have found that on the standard Venture, if you still have the black plastic cap, they do not seal real good. You may need to put a cap on with an o-ring seal or change the valve stem seal.

LEDs for wedge mount

From superbrightleds.com... Amber bulbs that go in the rotorcover are WLED-A4 and are $1.59 each (4 LED narrow beam, amber). The red 9mm bayonet type bulbs are BA9s-R and are $.98 each. The bulbs I used in my upper light bar that are the blade type that I needed the light to come out sideways were WLED-R that are red, single LED, wide-inverted cone tip. These were $.87 each.

Brighter Brakes and turn signals

The stock bulb for the RSV is #1157. specs are 32/3 candlepower.

Bulb # 2357 has the same base, plugs right in.

Specs 40/3 candlepower.

Running light will be the same brightness, brake light will be 25% brighter.

If anyone is worried about the extra heat melting the lens...I've been using these bulbs in my '83, brake and turn signals, for about 8 years. I use the 2357LL (long life).

front bumper and trunk turn signal in amber

Quantity: 6 Product: WLED-5 Wide Angle LED bulb $ 2.79 (each) Options: Amber

Accessory running lights/wide angle/side view

Quantity: 18 Product: WLED-R Red LED bulb $ 0.89 (each) Options: Wide - Inverted Cone Tip

Front disc brake rotor cover for 84 and 86... in amber

Quantity: 8 Product: WLED-A4 Amber LED bulb $ 1.59 (each)

Trunk and reflector red lights

Quantity: 12 Product: WLED-5 Wide Angle LED bulb $ 2.79 (each) Options: Red

http://www.superbrightleds.com

---------- PRODUCT INFORMATION ----------

Qty | Product / Options | Price/ea |

================================================== ==========

5 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb | $ 2.59 | WLED-W4-90: Cool White Wide

1 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb | $ 1.59 | WLED-R4-32: Red Narrow

2 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb | $ 2.59 | WLED-G4-32: Green Narrow

1 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb | $ 2.59 | WLED-B4-90: Blue Wide

3 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb | $ 1.59 | WLED-A4-32: Amber Narrow

2 | 1156-x30: 30-LED BA15S bulb| $ 8.99 | 1156-A19-WV: 1156 Amber 100 Degree

2 | 1157-x3X1W: 3 x 1.3 Watt High Power LED BAY15D Bulb| $ 16.95 | 1157-A3X1W: Amber

2 | 1157-R19W6: Motorcycle Tail 19-LED 1157 Bulb| $ 12.99 |

2 | RL-650: Tail Light Load Resistor kit | $ 4.95 |

BigBikeParts Replacement Lens for 61-100 // cat_691-5204_product_68529.Yamaha_Venture_Brake_Light.htm // siteID=454&ItemID=1816

900100L center red $8.06 bulbs T2-3W 10-282

900100LL left amber $4.46

900100LR right amber $4.46

Running Light replacement lenses Drag Specialties

DS-28015 large red

DS-280153 large amber

DS-280168 small red

DS-280167 small amber

Loaner SWR meter

Ed 858-748-6742 cell-858-204-9601

Cable Linkage

Well guys, this is your lucky day. This very afternoon a friend and I replaced all four of his cables on his 87VR. The back outside cable going to the carb was broken. So we figured we'd do all four since we were going to have everything apart. The cables are first removed from the ROTOR or plastic piece where the four cables and cruise control cable come together on the left side of the machine. You need to remove the lowers on both sides and the left fairing half plus the pieces under it, to access the ROTOR as it's called in the shop manual. You remove the handle bar cables from the rotor first, then you can get them in and out of the handle bar throttle control. Then with the new cables installed in the handle bar control, you put them back into place in the rotor. Next, the carbs will have to be pulled in order to get the inner cables out and the new ones installed. But again, pull those two cable ends from the rotor first and then with the carb rack removed, which is not really that hard to do, slip the old cable ends out and the new cable ends into place. Put the carb rack back into place and connect the other ends of the cables to the rotor. When all is said and done, you'll have to sync the carbs since that assembly has now been disturbed.

The rotor is marked 1,2,3,4 on the mounting holes where the cable ends attach in the rotor.1 and 2 are on the inside of the rotor and 3 and 4 are on the outside of the rotor. The replacement cables are also marked 1,2,3,4,signifing which hole they go into. It's pretty hard to make a mistake. Once you get into the job, you'll see what I mean. But pay ATTENTION to how the cables are wound on that rotor.

There are two places for cable slack or free play adjustment. One is located by the hand throttle itself on the handle bar, and the other is located on the outer cable going towards the outer carb. Again, you'll see what I mean when you get into the job. When everything is back together, the throttle MUST be FREE without any BINDING or HARSHNESS when the throttle is twisted and released. And it MUST RETURN freely. If it doesn't, then something is wrong. So pay attention to how it comes apart so you can put it back the same way. And don't forget to lube the moving parts to make them work easier.

Now for the twist!! The cruise control cable connects into the rotor assembly from the BOTTOM. On John's bike, that cable came in from the TOP. We got it apart ok, but had balls trying to get it back together. So we stopped and went into the shop manual to see if maybe I had make a mistake or missed something. Well guess what?? From the factory, that rotor assembly was installed upside down or backwards. The rotor itself was ok, as were the cables that were connected into it. It was the plastic case that it fits into and where the cables slide into that case at an angle, and then come to rest against special made stops before they attach to the rotor, that was backwards. I'm surprised the cruise worked at all. Now his machine has never had a cable replacement or adjustment until now. Hence, it's never been pulled apart by anyone until now. According to John, the bikes cruise control has always acted a little erratic since day one [he bought it with only 6000 miles on the clock] and was a little slow to return to idle once the throttle was released. We also noticed that the old back inner throttle control cable was kinked where it connected into the rotor. The new cable was starting to do the same thing after I put it in. So I started looking for the "WHY" Well, I found it and it doesn't do it anymore. It was that plastic piece that the rotor fits into that was installed backwards from the factory.

This is the second or third factory screw up that we've run into on his bike. And I've read others having problems with theirs. For example, the right front shock being assembled wrong from the factory which was just posted. We had that very same problem on John's bike.

So the point is, [and I know that Yamaha NEVER makes a MISTAKE from the factory] , PAY ATTENTION to how it comes apart and goes back together. Make DAM sure the throttle works FREELY, with no binding, sticking, or harshness in that throttle control. If something doesn't look right, feel right or doesn't want to go back together right, look in the book or ask someone that has done it before. You'll be glad you did. Dave!!!

New Brake Calipers Help Stopping

Calipers off a Yamaha R1 up to 2002 or 98-04 Yamaha R-6 will bolt right on the front and give you great stopping power. Best is to change the lines to braided steel.

You can get better prices on new or used FRONT rotors from the different models listed... the rear rotor is the odd ball.

Vmax All models 85-92

FJ1100 L/LC/N/NC 84-85

FJ1200 S/SC/T/TC 86-87

VMX 12 R/RC Vmax 03

XVZ 13 T/TC/U/UC 87-88

ZVZ 13 D Series Venture Royale 86-99

Burned out Computer Module chips?

If you burnt out the sensor like I did, is no big deal to change. The chip is a TD62504P I ordered 3 from local electronic shop. There are two on the computer board The battery sensor connects to pin 1 on one of the chips. That is the one to change. another tip is to install a chip socket on the board. If you blow it again

in is just a matter of prying out the chip and pressing in a new one.

Brake Disc Specs:

The 83-85 used ventilated rotors with internal slots, and the 8.5 mm new, 6.5 mm minimum Shighley mentions refers to them.

The 86-93 the rotors were externally slotted and rear was different than the fronts. Fronts 7.0 mm(0.28") new, 6.5 mm (0.26") minimum

Rear 5.0 mm (0.20")new, 4.5 mm (0.18") minimum

Fork seals:

The fork seals on your Venture are tender and if you get even a small neck in the fork tubes they will start leaking! So before you replace the seals be sure to check the tubes for nicks. If you do find nicks, feel them and if you can feel it so can the seal, with a small fine file VERY CAREFULLY smooth only the high spot of the nick.

Zerk fittings

This article appeared In September l988 Issue of Venture road on page 15 and In 1991 Yamaha installed grease fittings as standard equipment

There has been a lot of talk about installing zero fittings on the mono shock assembly and I have heard that at least one Priority Network dealer is doing just that. I decided to start with a set of arms off the wrecked '83 I have in the garage. Although this bike only had 14,000 miles on it, I could see some wear or pitting on all the metal surfaces and after some thought, I set off for the local auto parts store to purchase a 1/4-24 tap, a 7/32" drill, 2 long zerk fittings (11/16" overall) and 3 short ones (9/16" overall). The bill was $5.35 for the lot and as I drove home I could have kicked myself for waiting so long.

Procedure...

With the bike on the center stand, remove both mufflers and place a board under the rear tire to take the load off the assembly. Then remove the four bolts and the two bearings at the bottom of the mono shock. (Note: There are dust caps on each side of these bearings and they are not all the same, so make a note on where they came from). After you remove and clean both arms, you are ready to get started. I took my time with the first hole between the bushings marked "A", starting with a 1/16" drill, then a 7/32" drill and keeping the tap straight, I tapped the hole and installed one of the short zerks. The bushings marked "B" were not as simple because the '83 Venture has a metal bushing about .030" thick and I felt that the zerk was too long to go straight into the arm, so I used part of the weld to gain a little thickness but a thin washer would also have done the trick. Remember to drill the holes as close to the center as possible so the drill goes through the groove in the center of the bushings. (Note: 1984-87 Ventures have the thicker fiber bushing in the "B" position, so you only need to drill and tap through the one side of the bushing so that the zerk extends a little into the fiber to hold the bushing in place). The last two bushings marked "C" are drilled and tapped through the raised portion and then counter sink the holes with a clearance drill deep enough so the zerk extends into the fiber bashing. After you thoroughly clean the bearing surfaces, re-install the arms back in the bike

and use enough grease to insure an even coating. Wipe off the excess grease. Now each time you change oil, give each of

the fittings a little shot of grease for a smooth ride.

Fred Vogt, #01037

On later models the procedure is the same and on the "C" bushings you will notice a flat spot where it looks like a grease fitting could go.

Venture Rear Wheel Service You may ask, "Doesn't my dealer do that?" NOT UNLESS YOU TELL, HIM THAT YOU WANT IT DONE. This service should be completed every tire change or 10,000 miles (16,000k) or at least every two years; but in most cases it isn't done because we don't always have a dealer replace our tires and/or we don't tell him to do the work. So if you just bought the bike or you are not sure it has been done, it would be a good time to think about servicing the rear wheel of your Venture. The procedure is fairly simple to do on bikes without a trailer hitch and only a little harder if your bike has one. Remove the rear bags, right muffler, rear brake caliper and deflate the tire; then remove the rear wheel. If your Venture is a 1983, 84, or 85 you will need to remove the rear drive or differential and remove the drive shaft. Clean the drive shaft and coupling, then grease both ends before putting it back in (note: make sure that the shaft goes back into the u-joint. If you are not sure, remove the spring on the boot covering the u-joint and check it. Next clean the spline or gear on the rear drive and grease it with a good quality grease, personally I use a medium Moly based grease. Now find a couple of 2" x 4" and place the rear wheel spline side up on the boards. When you clean the hub and splines off you will see the spring clip or circlip that holds the hub in place; remove this clip and before you remove the hub mark the possession of the hub so you can replace it in the same holes it came from. Now clean the hub and inspect it for wear then apply grease to the inside of the hub and to the six posts that fit into the wheel. Check the o-ring on the wheel to be sure it is in place before you replace the hub and circlip. Check the bearings inside of the wheel and check the bearing movement; if they are rough or worn replace them. Now for the mono shock pivots place a jack under the rear drive to take the strain off of the mono shock then dissemble. Clean and grease all of the pivot points and reassemble (if you have a 90 - 93 or you have had grease fittings installed, just give them a squirt). Before you install the rear wheel take the axle and put it back through the swing arm into the final drive to check the alignment. If you find that it is in a bind you will have to change the wedge shim between the final drive and the swing arm. Check the oil level in the rear drive or replace the oil if it has been 10,000 miles since it was serviced and check the brake pads for wear. You can now reassemble your bike and have another year or two of trouble free riding.

Adhesives:

Yamabond 5 - Drying Liquid Gasket

YamaBond 4 Semi Drying Liquid Gasket - Discontinued By Yamaha, Replaced By Three Bond TB1194 Shown Below

Yamaha Quick Gasket - Discontinued By Yamaha. Order Three Bond TB1194.

YamaBond 1102 yellow, non-drying fluid sealant prevents leakage of water, oil, gas and chemicals. Use on flanges and screw sections.

Also I read that it is made for them by 3M.Apparently they also make it for other manufacturers like Honda (Hondabond #4), Suzuki (Sazukibond) and Ducati (Ducatibond).

Though I can't even find it listed on the net, I guess 3M also sells the same product under their own label but I don't know the name. It would probably be cheaper getting it this way.

If you can find it Threebond makes a sealant 1 step better called 1211

These are generically called Hylomar sealers.

Aluminum polish

I am a driver myself and i tried the jewelers rouge in liquid form pre mixed at the truck stops. I started with brushed aluminium tanks, and used the white mixed about 50/50 with the green. this should remove the oxidation. then i would finish off with the white. works pretty good. but now i make my own like one other post says use the bricks of white jewelers rouge, and mix it with mineral spirits. i mix it about 30/70 to 50/50 having more liquid is better. no buffer needed. Just wipe it on and let it dry then just wipe the powder off with a clean terry cloth. you can play around with the mix, but i have found that liquids with ammonia turns the aluminum brown in spots that aren't protected very well. All i do is polish my tanks about every 3-4 months and then use window cleaner or something similar with out ammonia to clean them every week. to polish 2 100 gallon tanks it only takes about 15-30 min depending on how clean they are when i start. the only purpose of the mineral spirits is to for a liquid, and faster drying time.

Serial number Designation

I've always been a bit confused as to how to figure out the model year from the 1stGens VIN number. I've read all about it, but it didn't make sense. For all those that are in the dark like me, here it is. The last 6 digits are the serial number. The 2 letters before them designate the year. Actually you could drop the 'A' and still be in the know....

DA= 83

EA= 84

FA= 85

GA= 86

HA= 87

I.... skipped. Looks too much like a one

JA= 88

KA= 89

LA= 90

MA= 91

NA= 92

O.... skipped. Looks too much like a zero

PA= 93

Carb jet info

Model Venture

XVZ12TK

XVZ12TDK

(has CLASS)

Venture Royale

XVZ12 L or DL

Venture Royale XVZ12 KC2 or DKC2

frame no. JYA26H00*xxxxxx JYA31M00*DAxxxxxx (L) JYA41R00*EAxxxxxx

(DL) JYA41V00*EAxxxxxx

(KC2)JYA47R00*DAxxxxxx

(DKC2) JYA47T00*DAxxxxxx

Yam carb ID 26H 00 26H 00 41R00

main jet #117.5 #117.5

main air jet #65 #65 #55

jet needle

needle jet

5GLZ37

X-6

5GLZ18-3

X-6

5FX59-1

Y-0

pilot air jet no.1 #80

no.2 #180

#80 #80

#180

pilot outlet 0.8

pilot jet #42.5 #42.5 #37.5

pilot outlet 0.8

bypass B.P.1 0.8

B.P.2 0.8

B.P.3 0.9

valve seat size 1.5

starter jet G.S.1 #45

G.S.2 #0.8

fuel level 14~0.5mm 16.5-17.5 mm 15.5-16.5 mm

Mikuni ref ? BDS34 BDS34 BDS34 BDS34

carb diameter ? ?? ?? ??

mileage ?? Do people with this model get good mpg ? Do people with this model get good mpg ? I get low 30's mpg (UK) with this model solo, 30 mpg (25mpgUS).

Do other people with this model get good mpg ?

Do people with this model get good mpg ?

other comment I don't know how many of these were made. Manual lists only one pilot air jet.

Changed float level.

Were the changes to make the cruise control work ? The manual gives the code number, but no further information - I have presumed the L/DL info applies.

I have no idea if we've been comparing like with like when talking about mileage/mpg figures. I also don't know how many later models there were -it took long enough to enter this lot (sorry about the big gap btw - I don't know why it is there nor how to remove it)

I understand that at some point the carb body diameter may have been changed, but whether they are interchangeable (ie the same carb rubbers fit) I also can't say.

I've just found the Alan's Performance site : it was Allen's Performance http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/ and I located the table below. Maybe they will be able to help after all - at least it has some 3 digit code numbers. Unless these are the codes they have not agreed to keep secret. I think TM and VM are their slide carb applications, not CV carb. The parts might be the same if we know the codes, though..

Series Part Number Size Application

110 VM13/21-size E-6 to F-6 VM16-353

145 VM15H1/17-size N-6 to O-6 VM17-8101 / VM18-144 / VM20-151

159 VM34/05-size N-0 to R-0 VM30-83 / VM32-193 / VM32-33 / VM34-168 / VM34-275 / VM36-4

166 VM34/17-size O-8 to R-8 VM38-9

175 VM30/46-size O-8 to Q-2 VM28-418

182 VM28/86-size O-2 to P-8 VM26-8637 / VM26-8639

224 VM44/10-size AA-0 to CC-5 VM40-4 / VM44-3

239 VM22/294-size N-2 to P-2 VM20-179 / VM20-273

249 VM22/313-size N-8 to P-8 VM24-473

295 VM13/151-size E-6 to F-0 VM13-83

325 VM14/233-size E-4 to E-8 VM14-8340

332 VM26/581-size N-4 to P-4 VM24-489 / VM26-606

389 785-24001-size O-0 to R-8 TM32-1 / TM34-2 / TM36-2 / TM38-85 / TM38-86

426 784-31002-size D-0 to E-2 VM20-327

454 784-21005-size O-0 to q-8 TM24-9

512 784-24008-size P-0 to Q-0 TM28-1

568 784-13002-size P-0 to P-8 / Y-0 to Z-2 RS / TM36-31 / TM40-6

622 784-232401-size N-4 to 0-6 TM27-8006 / TM30-8006

633 784-13005-size Q-0 to T-0 TM38-131 / TM38-157 / TMX38-1 / TMX38-5

640 784-24111-size P-2 to Q-2 TM33-12

680 785-40004-size O-8 to P-8 TMR/TDMR

681 784-31030-size D-0 to E-8 VM16-438

723 784-430000-size Y-4 to Y-8 TM42-6 / TM45-2 /TM48-2

This is getting even worse. My mate's not answering the phone so he's probably having a liquid lunch at the hostelry opposite his shop.

In the meantime I thought I'd look up the yamaha part numbers on the microfiches for the XVZ12TDK, the XVZ12L and the XVZ12DL (courtesy http://www.yamahaventureclub.co.uk )

I get:

model...........needle set........................... main nozzle (aka needle jet)

XVZ12TDK.... 26H-1490J-00-00 .................26H-14941-06-00

XVZ12L ........26H-1490J-00-00 .................26H-14941-06-00

XVZ12DL ......26H-1490J-00-00 .................26H-14941-06-00

Spin On Oil Filters for spin-on adapter

Oil Filter (Gold) FIL 1381

Product Line: NAPA Filters