Big Bike Parts rear lens installed in OEM reflector base.

[camos]

I decided to move this topic to its own thread. The quotes below are the pertinent parts of what was discussed before the original thread went sideways.

 

So to re-cap, getting the reflective lens off the base was a struggle but not as bad as it could have been if lens were to to re-installed. The BigBikeParts replacement lenses fit the OEM reflector base perfectly... almost. The divider on the base between the rear lens and the turn signal lenses don't line up with the BB parts joint. This is not a practical issue though.

 

Today I installed the LED strips in the rear reflector area but only managed to wire the running light circuit but the brake circuit was tested.

 

5 strips fit in the space available.

 

LED running lights lit up.

 

LED brake lights lit up.

 

Under normal running conditions the two light strips will always be on and when the brakes are applied the other 3 strips will light up as well. With the lens in place the individual LED's are not separately noticeable.

 

The lens cover needs to be trimmed on each end to make room for the LED's and connectors. The plastic is quite brittle but carving it off with a knife works well. Probably better than using a saw or file.

 

 

This is an example of the connector used to attach the wiring to the LED strip. The LED strip fits into a slot on either side of the connector and the contacts slide under two spring clips then the cover clips closed. I mention this because I did not initially notice the side slots and messed up the contact points. The copper strip is very thin so it does not take much to tear it. Since I'm talking about gotchas, rather than using the connectors it is possible to solder wires to the LED strips but there seems to be some possible issues when doing it that way. I did not do any soldering but did read about other folks having trouble with that method. Heads up no matter which method is used.

 

 

This is a pic with the rear brakes taken in my carport so it's shady and the lights blast out. The next pic is taken in bright sunlight and the lens lights are on although they may not appear to be. It's a function of the pic since they are quite noticeable when seen in real life.

 

 

The LED's are available on eBay: Red LED's and Yellow LED's. (note, the ad says amber but they are yellow) I was not happy about that. A better choice for the turn signals might be an amber LED bulb or even an incandescent one. The yellow works but does not match the saddlebag signal lights.

The connectors can be purchased on amazon.ca and also on amazon.com

 

The lenses were attached using clear silicon.

 

 

I'm pretty sure what I am remembering was the posts you made after doing this mod. Is the weld in the slot between the reflector lens and the sides of the base or at the bottom of the lens?

 

As you might have guessed from the above I'm not so much concerned with getting the base off the trunk but rather with getting the lens out of the base. I have a perfect reflector on a less than perfect spare trunk bottom that I think is probably repairable.

Then there is the reflector that is currently on the 89 that a PO drilled 8 holes to mount 4 trailer lights.

 

This is the one I want to use to replace the reflector lens with the BB lenses. So the destroyed reflector lens needs to come off without damaging the base. With that in mind it would be really helpful to know just how the reflector lens is attached to the base so I don't total it.

Have I mention lately that I'm pretty good at breaking things?

 

Thanks for bearing with me so far.

 

Here is how the edge is assembled.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]101500[/ATTACH]

The lens is Chemically welded (permanently glued) at the point where the two meet. I had to put the small screw driver in the slot in between the lens and the base.

 

In your case since you are trying to save the base and not the lens, the base is a much softer plastic and the lens is a very hard brittle plastic, so the lens will break long before the base will break. Once you get it apart it will be fairly floppy. When you are ready to glue it back together, I mounted the base to the trunk to hold its shape and then glued the lens to the base.

 

So the lens could be attached either or both on the bottom and on the lower side where the ledge is.

 

My plan "A" is to try removing the lens with the base still mounted on the trunk. Plan "B" will be developed if that doesn't work.

 

Thanks for the schematic, that should give me enough to go on.

 

The ledge is very small and just for locating at assembly in reality the lens is glued on both the bottom and that tiny bit of side.

 

Removed the reflector lens today with debatable success. That lens was not coming off in just one piece...no way...no how. Used an Exacto knife to cut and pry in the slot. For the most part it worked well but there were 3 or 4 places that would not separate. After an hour and a half of fussing with it I ended up breaking it out of the base, which didn't matter in the least because the lens was not worth save to begin with. Getting the few bits left behind still took a serious effort with a chisel which is my reason for saying "no way...no how". For those who have successfully removed the reflector lens without serious damage, I say you were lucky. Conversely, of course, I may have just been unlucky.

 

So, cleared out the reflector bits and test fit the BB lenses. They fit OK enough for me to be happy and somewhat relieved. There were still a few bumps of glue so cleaned them out and it fit quite a bit better. Decided to take off the little ledge at the bottom of the base and now it fits... PERFECT ....

 

Love it when my guesses turn out to be correct.

 

 

Now need to decide the best method of attaching the BB lenses. They need to be removable for servicing the LEDs that are to be mounted to the base. I'm thinking black RTV in the top and bottom joints. There is no way to make these lenses watertight because the joints between the rear lens and the turn signal lenses are essentially open.

 

One other thing, I'd like to remove the Venture Royale logo from the reflector and, as per someone's suggestion, mount it on the trunk. What is the best way to get it off without damage?

 

While it's true they are different versions, I'm counting on you being wrong about the interchangeability of the parts. Just sayin....

 

Without having removed the OEM reflector, I held the Big Bike lenses up to the reflector as close as possible and it sure looked like they would fit into the base.

I do have the complete BB trunk light on my 90 so no matter how it works out they will be used. Figured it was worth the gamble.

 

By spatula tool would you mean one that fits into a soldering iron?

 

From what I remember finding in posts on VR.org heat will work on the BB lenses but perhaps not so much on the OEM reflector. Certainly, I could be mis-remembering but I'm sure I've seen pix with little bits of reflector still stuck to the base. So it might just be a sharp thin knife could be the best method to remove it.

 

Anyway, before I dive in I will re-read all the threads on this project. That is a very daunting thought so I was hoping someone who had actually removed the reflector would chime in and save me hours and hours of frustrating searching and reading.

 

Clive,

 

The reflectors around the trunk were mounted by double sided tape. The double sided tape comes off easier with a little heat (think heat gun - not direct heat via soldering tool) and then gently prying off. I replaced my cracked reflector on my 1st Gen last year after reading about "how to"...here. It was a bear to get off...but did come off cleanly. I used a hair dryer and a stiff putty knife. Not daunting at all...just take your time.

 

Getting the reflector off of the trunk is the easy part. Mine was held on by double sided tape and 3 screws from the inside of the trunk. I used the sharp corner of a thin piece of sheet metal to get up between the reflector and the trunk to cut the tape.

 

It is separating the reflector from the backing that is hard to do.

I have never had the opportunity to play with a BB reflector, only OEM Yamaha. The reflector and base are chemically welded together. You have to work your way all around breaking that weld to separate them. I used a small 1/8 wide screwdriver to pry them apart bit by little bit.

I used hot glue the first time to reassemble, first time I rode in cold weather the reflector disappeared. Second time I used clear silicone to glue it back together. Has held fine for 4 years now.

 

I took reflector off my 86 with heat gun from the inside of the trunk. Like I heated the PVC of the trunk and slowly peeled the 2sided tape off. Slow and easy. There were no screws.

I purchased an OEM Yamaha reflector but there were none in Canada but one was located in California. This was 5 yrs back now.

 

I read that some units did have screws. I was going to mention that, but went out to check on mine and no screws. Interesting.

 

My 88 standard does have the 3 screws, be worth checking, you could do a lot of prying on that tape if it is still screwed down.

 

Use some stout (14-20#) nylon monofilament fishing line with a sawing action to cut through the double faced foam tape used to adhere the emblem to the reflector. "Goo-Gone", WD40 or similar to remove the residue from the separated parts.

 

I know I've got a roll of 30# perlon somewhere but couldn't find it. That is the lightest I have ever used but it would probably work well enough if I knew where it was.

 

Not having heard anything by this morning I waved my heat gun at the logo and it just about fell off by itself. Interestingly, it did not look like it was held on with double sided tape. There was some kind of black goop mystery adhesive in the crevices on the backside. Did not look like RTV either, as it was not rubbery.

 

Thanks for the input, there are so many good solutions, from the guys on this site, that are rattling around in my head that is is often difficult to remember which one solves what problem.

Edited March 10, 2016 by camos

[Great White]

I've got a link to another forum where a gent shows how to build a controller using a pwm circuit to run all the LEDs. You adjust intensity for running lights and they go full bright for stop. It also gives the option of having half you led segment flash as turn signals. Only a couple bucks in parts and some soldering.

 

im on my tablet right now, when I get back to my laptop I'll post the link.

[Freebird]

Would be very simple to do with a diode and a resistor. Many of us have done it with the aftermarket LED lightbars on the second gens.

[Great White]

here's the link: http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-technical-talk/187927-diy-led-tail-light-with-integrated-turn-signals-oem-housing-3.html

 

I believe it's on the 4th page he gives diagrams, CB print outs and parts lists.

 

It's also a modular type circuit, so you can add and subtract features as you go.

 

I prefer driving LED's with a PWM circuit as they run at the full voltage they are intended to run at. Maximizes their life and you still can have the "dimming" effect.

 

Makes it look OEM if done right.

 

I like doing things right.

 

Edited September 13, 2015 by Great White

[Freebird]

There can be more than one way to do things right. Simple is often better and more reliable. That is WAY overkill in my opinion. Of course you are just as free to have your own opinion.

[Great White]

Not really overkill at all.

 

a pwn controller, voltage regs, diodes and a couple resitors.

 

easy peasy.

 

And it drives the leds the way they are supposed to be driven to ensure max life.

 

[Flyinfool]

As for me personally. On most cars that use PWM to dim LEDs for driving lights, I can see the PWM frequency and the flashing hurts my eyes bad. I will do most anything to get in front of anything with PWM tail lights. Cadillac and Toyota are the worst ones.

 

Running a LED at reduced voltage does not shorten its life. PWM is used because it is more energy efficient than having a resistor generating heat.

 

On the LEDs under my kitchen cabinets for counter lighting I use a simple resistor to control brightness. These LEDs are now 10+ years old. Not one has burnt out, and they are on almost 24/7, they are turned down low with the potentiometer to act as a night light.

 

Yes it is way more complicated than it needs to be, But some of us enjoy playing with electronics which makes it worth the effort, Sometimes "just cuz I can" is the only reason needed to do something that is not the easy way.

Edited September 13, 2015 by Flyinfool
fat fingers

[Freebird]

Agreed. If you just like playing with electronics, there is certainly nothing wrong with that. The very simple diode and resistor method works great also though. The light bar cost about 17.00 back when I was doing them and the resistor and a couple of diodes was another 2 or 3 bucks so it was about $20.00 total. I don't know how long it would have lasted that way. Mine had been going for over 10 years when I sold the bike.

[Great White]

As for me personally. On most cars that use PWM to dim LEDs for driving lights, I can see the PWM frequency and the flashing hurts my eyes bad. I will do most anything to get in front of anything with PWM tail lights. Cadillac and Toyota are the worst ones.

 

Running a LED at reduced voltage does not shorten its life. PWM is used because it is more energy efficient than having a resistor generating heat.

 

On the LEDs under my kitchen cabinets for counter lighting I use a simple resistor to control brightness. These LEDs are now 10+ years old. Not one has burnt out, and they are on almost 24/7, they are turned down low with the potentiometer to act as a night light.

 

Yes it is way more complicated than it needs to be, But some of us enjoy playing with electronics which makes it worth the effort, Sometimes "just cuz I can" is the only reason needed to do something that is not the easy way.

 

There are led's that can be run resistive, but they are not common. The ones most guys get (mainly from china) are not resistive. If you run normal LED's near their voltage cut off limit they heat and die,

[camos]

Thanks for the suggestions on how to vary the output of the LED's but for me KISS rules and it cannot get any simpler than On/Off. The configuration used in the rear light bar is a natural KISS scenario with two rows on all the time and three rows that come on when the brakes are applied. No one will miss seeing the extra blaze of light when the brakes light it up.

 

Yesterday I found the turn signal and brake connectors under the seat. Never used them before and never really liked the idea but I'm going to use tap connectors to join the the wires from the light bar. It appears to be the easiest solution and I'm hoping that I won't regret it. Time will tell.....

[Karaboo]

I finally got around to replacing the brake light sockets i my Big Bike Parts trunk unit with two LED strips. I was going to replace the rest of the bulbs with LED bulbs, but I did not find any bulbs that worked right when they are sideways. I think it looks okay.

 

This was before the switch. Brakes are ON.

 

This is after the new lights. Brakes are ON.

[camos]

I finally got around to replacing the brake light sockets i my Big Bike Parts trunk unit with two LED strips. I think it looks okay.

I like it too.

I have one of those trunk bumpers but have been debating whether or not it was too gaudy. I think I will put it on.

[Prairiehammer]

I like it too.

I have one of those trunk bumpers but have been debating whether or not it was too gaudy. I think I will put it on.

 

One cautionary note about the Big Bike Parts Trunk Light and the "trunk bumper" (Tour Box Trim Rail): the Tour Box Trim Rail, if mounted as intended will not clear the Big Bike Parts trunk light. Karaboo had to relocate the Tour Box Trim Rail to clear the BBP trunk light, because the BBP trunk light is thicker and crashes into the VentureLine Tour Box Trim Rail ("trunk bumper"). So he has four extra holes in the sides of his trunk where the VentureLine Tour Box Trim Rail was originally mounted.

I have the VentureLine Tour Box Trim Rail already mounted to my trunk and had intended to add the BBP Trunk Light, but I am hesitant to remove and remount the Tour Box Trim Rail, leaving four holes in my trunk sides. There are five attachment points for the VentureLine Tour Box Trim Rail, two on each side and a fifth in the middle, at the rear. The supplied strap bracket for the middle rear mount is too short as supplied to place the Tour Box Trim Rail far enough rearward to clear the Big Bike Parts lighted reflector.

I have my Tour Box Trim Rail lights wired as brake lights, so the BBP lights may be redundant.

Just a heads up.

[camos]

One cautionary note about the Big Bike Parts Trunk Light and the "trunk bumper" (Tour Box Trim Rail): the Tour Box Trim Rail, if mounted as intended will not clear the Big Bike Parts trunk light.

Well that's good to know. The Tour Box Trim Rail I have is still mounted on a spare trunk so I can measure how much clearance it will need. Not saying it would be different but what I installed on the 89 is just the BB Parts lenses, not the complete light bar. My 90 has the complete BB Parts light bar which has a different base although I think the base probably has less to do with the depth than the lenses do.

 

Thanks for the heads-up Kevin, I'll definitely check the measurements before doing anything drastic.

[camos]

Just thought I would mention that I finally added the rest of the pix for the Big Bike Parts lens covers.