Possible Wireing Improvement

[GeorgeS]

I just found this on a V-Max WebSight:

 

I have not checked my bike yet ( 89 ) to see if this minor fix applies to Ventures, as well as the V-Max.

 

Its the Red wire from output of the Voltage Regulator going to the Main Fuse holder then to the Battery Positive Terminal.

 

The Information claims this connecting point is just " Crimped" and should be Soldered. Why, because there is a 1 volt voltage drop across the crimp connection. At least thats what is Claimed. I can't confirm it yet.

 

Check this web address, http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/main.html

 

On left of page click on v max tech + Info:

 

Then Scroll down to and find, " Crimp" connection fix.

 

It gives Schematic information, and some good photographs as to

how to do the " fix " The Fuse holder looks same as on 1st Gens.

 

 

I will check mine tomorrow, or as time presents itself, being that I am now Retired, Time is in fairly short Supply. And its January and its Cold in the Garage, and I just got home with a 6 pack !!

[BuddyRich]

I don't know George. in order to get a 1 volt drop you would need at least 1 ohm of resistance. Which I really doubt is happening between a crimped joint as compared to a solder joint. If that was the case, then you would get a 1 volt drop across any of the "push together" connectors also as they are just a touch type connection too.

[GeorgeS]

I'm not pushing this guys advice, I just stumbled on it.

 

However, With Corrosion, an old bike sitting out in the weather, well, maby.

 

I just pulled my spare E-Bay Wireing harness out of the cabinet, and checked the joint the guy pointed out.

 

It was Clean copper, Crimped, Not Soldered, and measured Zero Ohms.

 

It is located exactly 6 inches from the Master Fuse Holder.

 

Anyway, next time I have it opened up I'm going to solder it.

 

However if sombody buys an Old bike thats been sitting out in the Weather several years, It might be worth checking.

 

There are 5 Wires Crimped together at this Joint, 3 smaller ones.

[saddlebum]

if the joint has any corrosion or the copperhas aged it wont solder properly anyway i would cut the crimp out and rejoin the wires then solder it. then seal it with heatshrink tubing

[GeorgeS]

--- Thats what " Soldering Flux " is for.

 

---- Two types, " Rosin Type flux, or Rosin Core Solder " Is used for

all electrical wireing, and radio electronic repairs.

 

---- Acid Flux, or Acid core Solder is used for plumbing soldering.

 

If you find corroded copper electrical wireing, Apply Rosin soldering Flux, and High Heat. This process will Chemicaly Clean the copper wire. It will then take solder.

 

Remember, Acid core solder is for Plumbing !!!

 

--------------Rosin core solder is for Electrical Connections ---

 

NEVER USE ACID CORE SOLDER ON ANY TYPE OF ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS

 

Any soldered electrical connection, can be repaired.

[V7Goose]

In actuality, a proper crimp connection is BETTER than solder. The key here is "proper," and in good condition. As previously noted, any corrosion or looseness is a problem. Crimp connections can become loose over time, where soldered connections do not.

 

The reason a good crimp connection is better is that direct metal to metal contact has less resistance than the solder between the two pieces of metal. This difference in resistance is minuscule, and it makes little difference in real life, but it is there nonetheless. When putting together a proper solder joint, the best method is to ensure a good crimp or physical connection between the two metal pieces first, then use the solder to ensure the original crimp never moves

 

My main point here is that this recommended "fix" to the factory setup is meaningless unless the specific bike has developed a problem and actually needs to be fixed. It never hurts to reinforce a crimp joint with solder, but I wouldn't rush out to do it unless this particular connection has been shown over time to be a week point in these models. Good luck,

Goose

[GeorgeS]

I agree completly:

 

The v-Max site I found the info on, was simply stateing that some folks have found this Connection Corroded. Probably on a bike that has been parked out in the weather for some number of years.

 

As their are 5 wires connected to this Crimp Joint, ( I confirmed this by checking my Spare Wireing Harness ) and its is easy to check it out, its worth takeing a look at.

 

Especially for anyone who has purchaced an Old 1 ST gen that may have been parked out in the weather for a long period.

 

Frankly, I don't trust Crimped electrical Joints.

 

I never use splice's on motorcycles, I always solder and use Shrink Tubeing .

 

One more thing about this Particular Crimped Connection. Its located right next to the Battery. I'm thinking Battery Acid, maby the guy who posted the info on the V-Max site, got a bike that battery Acid had gotten onto this particular connection. All it has for protection, is a round of black tape.

 

Whatever, Anyway its something to do during the Ice Storm back East !!!

[saddlebum]

[/Q

--- Thats what " Soldering Flux " is for.

 

---- Two types, " Rosin Type flux, or Rosin Core Solder " Is used for

all electrical wireing, and radio electronic repairs.

 

---- Acid Flux, or Acid core Solder is used for plumbing soldering.

 

Any soldered electrical connection, can be repaired.

UOTE]

 

[quoteIn actuality, a proper crimp connection is BETTER than solder. The key here is "proper," and in good condition. As previously noted, any corrosion or looseness is a problem. Crimp connections can become loose over time, where soldered connections do not.

]

 

 

If the cable is turned dark even flux won't help solder to stick. if you use acid core (ment for plumbing) the solder will stick but in time the acid flux itself will eat at the wiring. I too prefer a good mechanical crimp over soldering. I have seen situations were the cable has gotten warm enough to melt the solder and the jiont has let go. Some of the equipment I work on will draw 1000 amps while cranking. When making a crimp use a proper qaulity crimp tool, don't just gimble the terminal. An added touch i like to use because a lot of my wiring sees wet salty environments is too coat the wire and terminal with dielectric grease before assembly, this helps seal the connection t, then I cover with high qaulity heat shrink tubing (the type with hot melt sealer in it).