Ignitech ignition box is in and C.O.P. conversion done

[garyS-NJ]

Thanks lonestar. Gary also offered his cell. Getting a deka battery tomorrow and still need to get through brakes and a leaky clutch then a tad of cleanups ..electrical and fuel connections.

[dingy]

Thanks lonestar. Gary also offered his cell. Getting a deka battery tomorrow and still need to get through brakes and a leaky clutch then a tad of cleanups ..electrical and fuel connections.

 

Have you tried CD on another computer? I will send you another if you want.

 

Or, I can email you the program, data file that is in yours & the PDF's.

 

Gary

[Great White]

Have you tried CD on another computer? I will send you another if you want.

 

Or, I can email you the program, data file that is in yours & the PDF's.

 

Gary

I had a similar problem on my laptop.

 

Worked fine on my desktop though...

[lonestarmedic]

Did the same thing tonight. Put in a new Deka battery. No complaints though. The old one was almost 4 years old. Notices the voltage on the Ignitech program. All the Texas heat and the tons of starting while doing carbs and all the other stuff took its toll.

Thanks lonestar. Gary also offered his cell. Getting a deka battery tomorrow and still need to get through brakes and a leaky clutch then a tad of cleanups ..electrical and fuel connections.

Edited September 10, 2015 by lonestarmedic

[dingy]

I had a similar problem on my laptop.

 

Worked fine on my desktop though...

 

garyS - if you need a hand walking you through something my number is on my profile. Not sure on the CD. Should work. And we do get pretty technical and involved at times. Giving folks who like to tinker something adjustable is dangerous.

 

Sending both of you a replacement CD tomorrow.

 

I would like to see if this CD is readable in your laptop. I previously was using LightScribe CD's, which can have an image burnt on the non-data side. Haven't been burning image on lately, it takes about 20 minutes. I picked up some standard CD's tonight.

 

Gary

[lonestarmedic]

Gary is it possible you did not finalize a CD? If appendable it would take a Burner not a ROM to read it. And some can even be picky on which CD writer.

[Great White]

Gary is it possible you did not finalize a CD? If appendable it would take a Burner not a ROM to read it. And some can even be picky on which CD writer.

 

I would think if it wasn't finalized it wouldn't have worked on my desktop either.

 

I just pulled the info off the disc, then burnt it to a new one and it worked in my laptop just fine.

[lonestarmedic]

If desktop was a writer and laptop was a reader only it might make the difference.

[lonestarmedic]

Not to sure on the lightscribe. I have one and have used it seldom. I stick to standard media.

[dingy]

Same process I have used to make a lot of them.

 

Great Whites was made several years ago, may not have been a LightScribe, GaryS was just done recently though.

 

I don't initiate close on any of them. I select files to be burnt, send them & CD ejects automatically when burn done.

 

Gary

[lonestarmedic]

Using native windows program? I think it should close by default.

[cimmer]

My CD loaded ok to my laptop and desktop but then the CD wasnt a LightScripe CD either. I also made the change from short to auto for the dwell and that resolved my issue with the tach bounce when cruising after the engine warmed up.

Thanks for the heads up on that Lonestarmedic. I was looking at my wires and connectors as I made all new ones for the COPs.

Rick F.

[lonestarmedic]

Dang I love it when a plan comes together. I really like the Ignitech, and the COP conversion took out a lot of problem areas.

[lonestarmedic]

Been a couple weeks now and I have played with my mapping a bit. I am satisfied for now and intend to ride the bike and check mileage and performance. The C.O.P. conversion is really the way to go. I feel the plugs are firing at their optimum. My curve is pulling like a freight train. Maybe I can tweak it a bit yet. But the response from 2000 up to 8000 RPM is smooth. The bike feels very different. More willing to respond to throttle and quicker to run up speed and RPM. Is this the module itself? Or the combination? Or merely the fact that my original CDI was starting to fail? I do not know exactly.

 

My next step will be to put the thinner shims back under the diaphragm needles. These I got from SkyDoc17 years ago. Maybe going on 5 years. I had put the carburetors to stock in order to evaluate the ignition. With the thin shims I always got 43 MPG when one up and 37 MPG when 2 up. Right now my best tank has been 39 MPG one up with the stock setup. I know that I am currently running a bit rich in the cruising RPMs. I can see it on the plugs, smell it, and see it on the muffler tips.

 

I may even try switching to a set of those expensive Iridium plugs and see if those respond well with the C.O.P. setup. However, the stock plugs have been doing well. But I sure have clogged them up with all this tuning

 

I am attaching screen shots of my present programming so those interested can see the minor changes. I have also sent them by request to one gentleman who has been having some of the same problems that I encountered.

 

[KISA]

I can't understand - why by means of MAP sensor to emulate TPS? Whether it was simpler to balance MAP and standart sensor (IAP)?

I tested the chart of type2. Distance of 500 km, rider + passenger of =230 kg. To 2500 turns of power it isn't enough. Sweat-enough. The maximum speed - 180 km/h.

[lonestarmedic]

Kisa,

This motor has never been designed to run well at 2500 rpm. It is slow in the lower rpms. Even stock with a good module my motor did not work well until 3000 RPM.

 

Using a MAP sensor lets us factor in the load on the motor. Whether we call it TPS or IAP. The voltage is translated to a percent of advance. A TPS sensor is linear. Half throttle is 50%. But what gear at which RPM? And what is the torque load on the bike. The vacuum sensor helps by trying to interpret those factors.

[garyS-NJ]

I'd have to think the map would be better because when you wack the throttle open, the vacuum drops and at that point you don't want full advance (until the rpms spin up ). A tps would need a mass airflow sensor.

[Great White]

I'd have to think the map would be better because when you wack the throttle open, the vacuum drops and at that point you don't want full advance (until the rpms spin up ). A tps would need a mass airflow sensor.

Actually, most ign curves in the automotive world are a 3 d lookup table using rpm, MAP and %TPS. Very effective. At smooth and approriate power curves. They then chuck in a knock sensir to pull timing if knock is detected.

 

mass air flow sensors are used to tailor fuel injection to proper stoich. Ive never seen maf used in any ign lookup tables.

 

ideally, we would want baro (ie:map) and tps to trim out ign curves. But the ignitech is an either or propositon so its map or tps. I lean towards using map if the choice has to be made....

[garyS-NJ]

Good stuff great white. Thanks.

[garyS-NJ]

gary, your saved message count is full so I can't send you a message.

Have you tried CD on another computer? I will send you another if you want.

 

Or, I can email you the program, data file that is in yours & the PDF's.

 

Gary

[KISA]

http://ignitech.cz/zdroj/exe/tcip4_v88.exe

https://app.box.com/s/mtzjtlirkdynev2lbdj1 original

[dingy]

Kisa,

The TCIP4 software you linked is at least 3 years old.

 

PM me an email address and I will send you 140905a_tcip4A_v88, this is latest version I have, from February, 2015.

 

What is on Ignitech site for download is same as yours, 10.31.22. They do not update their stuff at all on line.

 

Gary

[KISA]

Dingy, and to Ignitech there is firmware (the steering microprogram)?

[lonestarmedic]

Hmm, looks like I need to get the above listed version. What i have is older.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk

[garyS-NJ]

And I have latest?