cimmer Posted September 19, 2015 #101 Posted September 19, 2015 I seem to have the latest but then I got mine in earlier this spring from Gary. Rick F.
KISA Posted September 21, 2015 #102 Posted September 21, 2015 I received ignition charts from Gary. An old problem - all charts are calculated on use of TPS... Lonestarmedic - established your chart. I passed 30 km. For some reason the average temperature of the engine, on 15-20 C increased. I will do a bit of traveling 2-3 more days, I will replace a chart and I will look at temperature. I, however, again established COP.
lonestarmedic Posted September 21, 2015 Author #103 Posted September 21, 2015 Kisa- My chart is fairly agressive. It is possible that you are experiencing a detonation problem depending on the octane of your fuel. Try dropping the curve down a bit. My curve has more advance in the part throttle area. I have another chart that I developed that is less aggressive. When I have a chance I will load several different versions and check the temperature.
lonestarmedic Posted September 21, 2015 Author #104 Posted September 21, 2015 And a 20 degree centigrade increase is a 70 degree farenheit increase. Now if the thermostat opens at 200 F. then you are saying the engine is operating at 270 F. The cooling fan turns on at 230 F. I would think the engine was severely overheating at the temperature you are indicating.
KISA Posted September 21, 2015 #105 Posted September 21, 2015 Tempiratrura didn't reach a red zone. On the street was + 10C. Usually on the country route temperature of the engine kept on a minimum, and now kept in the middle of a scale. Probably, I have a non-standard sensor of the fan - it works a little higher than a half of all scale.
lonestarmedic Posted September 21, 2015 Author #106 Posted September 21, 2015 Kisa- Other than temperature how is the throttle response? My temperature seems to be in the middle of the gauge. We were two up and riding fairly agressively. We averaged 33 miles per gallon.
KISA Posted September 22, 2015 #107 Posted September 22, 2015 Bad-11 km/litre, 9 litre/100 km, 25.9 miles per gallon. Oh, it is my chart! Lonestarmedic - On your chart I didn't refuel yet. I confirm the increased temperature. It seems that the overestimated corners on small and average turns. Tomorrow I will replace a chart. I will try a new insertion of Ignitech.
lonestarmedic Posted September 22, 2015 Author #108 Posted September 22, 2015 Kisa- 11km/litre is not very good for one up and no passenger. Unless you are riding very fast and aggressively. Then you can see that kind of mileage. As to the heat, I did check some of my past records on the bike and I do see that it has a small increase in temperature. I will not be changing my chart for a week or so. This chart is working well for me. I want to check the mileage without a passenger.
KISA Posted September 23, 2015 #109 Posted September 23, 2015 I went with the passenger. Our lump is 230 kg. Speed of 120-170 km/h. Normal expense?
KISA Posted September 23, 2015 #110 Posted September 23, 2015 My main task - to connect IAP with the chart of ignition made for TPS. Pressure from 101 to 75 kPas aren't necessary to us. Here example. I don't understand actions of Ignitech. It turns out, they put on the TPS motorcycle and do an ignition chart?
lonestarmedic Posted September 23, 2015 Author #111 Posted September 23, 2015 Whether IAP or TPS is chosen the action is the same when using a vacuum sensor. It is reading voltage. And that voltage in a given rpm is assigned an advance value. You set the advance value on the TAB section.
lonestarmedic Posted September 23, 2015 Author #112 Posted September 23, 2015 I ran a second tank down and got 34.8 mpg running 2 up at 65 to 70 mph. Checked temperaturw gauge tonight. Ambient temperature of 85 F. At 65 on highway needle is below horizontal by about 3 needle widths. Looks to be about right. Had to flog the bike hard to get it above that halfway area.
lonestarmedic Posted September 23, 2015 Author #113 Posted September 23, 2015 I went with the passenger. Our lump is 230 kg. Speed of 120-170 km/h. Normal expense? Ok, you are pushing an 860 pound bike with 560 lbs of passenger amd rider. Speed is between 80 and 100 miles per hour. That is a lot of weight and running pretty fast to ask for great fuel mileage. I would say 26 mpg as stated earlier is not that far off.
KISA Posted September 23, 2015 #114 Posted September 23, 2015 Lonestarmedic - 65 miles/hour - the most economy mode. There it is possible to reach 36 miles on gallon. Boring speed) I set TAB. But I am not confident in the minimum and maximum pressure. My motor on single turns shows 75 kPas. In an ideal pressure has to be 33 kPas (-2 atmospheric pressure). Something not so with carburetors?
frankd Posted September 23, 2015 #115 Posted September 23, 2015 JB, Did your bike get better mileage with the original TCI? 34.8 @ 65-70mph seems a bit low. My 89 would get about 41-43MPG under the same conditions, but I have set the floats and leaned out the mid-range on my carbs. Before I fixed the carbs it'd probably have gotten 38-40MPG. Maybe you need a little more vacuum advance? Your engine temperature sounds about normal. Frank
lonestarmedic Posted September 23, 2015 Author #116 Posted September 23, 2015 frankd- I cannot get 41-43 mpg 2 up with 450 lbs of people. Right now due to playing with the Ignitech I am set rich pn the needles. I have a regular plastic washer AND a metal washer below the e-clip. Rich setting as I play with the advance curves. Avoiding detonation damage and lean/hot condition. Will be setting back leaner soon. With regular TCI running one up at 70mph I got 43mpg with the needles leaned out.
garyS-NJ Posted September 28, 2015 #117 Posted September 28, 2015 so the Dingy Can is only for idle?? My Idle isn't like a swiss watch but what does the idle do with and without the can? And how does smoothing out map voltages affect the engine performance?? (Just smooths a lope out of the idle or a problem with idle rpm's wandering??). And as far as setting up a dingy can, might it be best to run four restrictors into the 5 way coupler, or one restrictor between couple and can or one between can and the map??? If only one restrictor does it then I can use my single OEM restrictor. Big picture those is I'm chasing a problem with throttle response. the bike with the ignetech is now very sluggish to rev up and also revs back down very slow/ GaryS- as delivered the Ignitech works just fine. I am in search of the most I can get out of it for my bike, my riding style, and my situations. MAP off port 2 is fine. I just noticed that it pulses a bit at idle. Trying to smooth it out. The dwell setting on mine is different because I no longer have spark plug wires. Base advance changes once again for my bike. The original is fine. MAP voltage adjustments because every bike is slightly different. Original range is fine. Bottom line, this is a universal TCI that can be programmed to duplicate the Venture/Vmax TCI. And as such it can be programmed to an individual bike. Other choices out there to replace a faulty TCI include: 1-a used TCI from another bike. 2- sending the bike to a junkyard. Yamaha does not make the original anymore.
garyS-NJ Posted September 28, 2015 #118 Posted September 28, 2015 I'm just rereading all of this to digest and noticed you wrote that the longer canister created too much lag in opening throttle response because the MAP is not getting the change in vacuum pressure quickly enough.. Well I have no canister. I'm just running the hose you supplied with the map and connecting to my port 2 vacume restrictor.. My throttle is very slow to opening throttle and also slow to closing the throttle (the rpms stay high when I shift gears). could I have a bad TCI or map sensor..?? Or is my OEM restrictor too restrictive?? I'm just getting ready to make a dingy can but reading here it does something for the idle as a compromise to throttle response.. I initially started out with a longer canister, through several tries, I settled on as short of a canister as I could get with 1 1/4" PVC. What I saw from TP graph was that the longer canister induced a lag in response to throttle opening. This is due to larger canister takes longer to reach an equilibrium in relation to PSI changes. The short can provided a helpful buffer, while not inducing to much lag. Just my experience. Picture of first try and last one attached. Gary
lonestarmedic Posted September 28, 2015 Author #119 Posted September 28, 2015 My vacuum reservoir evened out the pulsations of the MAP sensor. It did not help my throttle response up or down. It is keeping the advance steadier at idle. And has reduced RPM fluctuations at idle. I could see the TCI adding advance at an idle due to the pulses.
lonestarmedic Posted September 28, 2015 Author #120 Posted September 28, 2015 Your problem seems different than mine. The lag in throttle response might be more carburetor related.
garyS-NJ Posted September 28, 2015 #121 Posted September 28, 2015 I don't think carbs because I went through the diaphrams and had the carbs off and split into two and cleaned the jets and jet blocks. I'm pretty sure it's the ignition as I recall when I changed from points to an electronic ignition on my cb750F that bike had a different characteristic.. It started easier and lost some throttle response. I'm wondering if the map sensor from gary is working right or if I just need to tweek the ignition curves. It' Is slow to rev up and slow to idle back down (rpms stay high while changing gears. I checked the throttle linkage ok (cable pull it open and shuts completely. Also the change in choke has me scratching my head. I can't warm the bike on the normal choke detents. Just needs a lot less choke. I see I can't adjust the choke cable either.. I'm going to try to get the software today (read the CD at the library and load onto a stick).Also wondering if OEM idle advance is 5 degree BTDC then why start the igneteck at 10 degrees (maybe that's why it races with the choke when I'm warming). I'm also wondering if the dwell setting has something to do with it.. What does the dwell auto setting do and does anyone know the stock dwell?? I really need to ride someone's stock venture to calibrate my butt. Perhaps I'm used to whacking the throttle on my open intake/exhaust XJ550 and CB750 and the venture is just more docile..?
bkuhr Posted September 28, 2015 #122 Posted September 28, 2015 I don't think carbs because I went through the diaphrams and had the carbs off and split into two and cleaned the jets and jet blocks. I'm pretty sure it's the ignition as I recall when I changed from points to an electronic ignition on my cb750F that bike had a different characteristic.. It started easier and lost some throttle response. I'm wondering if the map sensor from gary is working right or if I just need to tweek the ignition curves. It' Is slow to rev up and slow to idle back down (rpms stay high while changing gears. I checked the throttle linkage ok (cable pull it open and shuts completely. Also the change in choke has me scratching my head. I can't warm the bike on the normal choke detents. Just needs a lot less choke. I see I can't adjust the choke cable either.. I'm going to try to get the software today (read the CD at the library and load onto a stick).Also wondering if OEM idle advance is 5 degree BTDC then why start the igneteck at 10 degrees (maybe that's why it races with the choke when I'm warming). I'm also wondering if the dwell setting has something to do with it.. What does the dwell auto setting do and does anyone know the stock dwell?? I really need to ride someone's stock venture to calibrate my butt. Perhaps I'm used to whacking the throttle on my open intake/exhaust XJ550 and CB750 and the venture is just more docile..? Sounds to me like your snyc may be a little off. Pull the air filter and look closely at the butterflies. Push the diaphragm slides with finger to see the butterflies. Are they equally and almost completely closed, and open equally together. If not you may need sync adjustments, and a lagging carb could be the cause for hung rpm.
cimmer Posted September 29, 2015 #124 Posted September 29, 2015 I was wondering if you had synced your carbs since installing the Ignitech box. I found I needed to do that after installing the Ignitech and that seemed to help a bit with throttle response for me. Check yours and see if that helps. Rick F.
garyS-NJ Posted September 29, 2015 #125 Posted September 29, 2015 Thanks rick. No I never synced them. Tried three places for vacuum restrictions yesterday so I can run 4 gauges on it.
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