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Posted

Howdy everybody! Long time no see. Past few months have kept me so busy my head is still spinning. I've missed this place!

 

Well, my bike decided to get ornery with me again. Rear master cylinder went completely kaput. Tried bleeding some of the fluid out and replacing with fresh, tried pumping it to see if it'd build any pressure at all, nada. No braking from it whatsoever. Looks like I'll be ordering a rebuild kit for it this week. I haven't even looked at getting it off the bike yet. As I recall it didn't look fun. But, that's not my only issue. I'm about to start a scramble to get her back on the road before the summer ends, although I'll ride until it snows. Heck, last year I rode after it snowed. 20 degrees is kind of pushing it though.

 

Anyway, here's my other issue. Temp gauge has gone completely haywire! It either sits at zero or sweeps up and down and has a fit. Occasionally if I give the throttle a hard twist it will show in the normal range for idle operating temperature. I can only guess, since it started after a bit of a soggy ride, that it might be some corrosion on a connector or something. Obviously I can check the dash, but I'm not sure where to find the other end.

Posted

Always a chance of air in the system causing you grief on the rear master,, they can be kind pugnacious about bleeding.. Also, if you look at the feed line from the rear fluid resevoir to the actual master you will see a small plastic cup held in place with a small screw (going from memory here).. Might not be a bad idea to remove that cup and make sure that fluid can access the master.. You can find pics of what I am talking about here = http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?12536-Stranded-with-brakes-sticking-and-heating-up-Read-this

 

As far as the temp gauge.. If it were mine I would check anti freeze level first, then check the connection at the sending unit before I went forward with ripping er down to the gauge itself.. Take a peek at the picture below.. Notice the Blue wire that is in the upper right corner of the pic? The wire's crossing it coming up from the horn? Check that Blue wire where it attaches to the sending unit.. Also check the terminating of the other wire in the two wire harness with the blue one - I think its blue/green if mem serves me correctly.. Those two terminals have caused me a fair amount of problems like you describe..

By the way, they are located under the lower fairing on the right hand side as you are sitting on the bike..

Welcome back,, Hope this helps...

Puc

DSCN1095.JPG

Posted

Scrubbing the male connectors on the sending unit with a small brass brush (gotta LOVE those freebie brush kits at Harbor Freight) and itching the inside of the female connectors on the wires with a dental pic before giving em a little squeeze may also help.. Contact cleaner works ok too but Tweeks wires like to be scratched for some reason... :confused24:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Howdy everybody! Long time no see. Past few months have kept me so busy my head is still spinning. I've missed this place!

 

Well, my bike decided to get ornery with me again. Rear master cylinder went completely kaput. Tried bleeding some of the fluid out and replacing with fresh, tried pumping it to see if it'd build any pressure at all, nada. No braking from it whatsoever. Looks like I'll be ordering a rebuild kit for it this week. I haven't even looked at getting it off the bike yet. As I recall it didn't look fun. But, that's not my only issue. I'm about to start a scramble to get her back on the road before the summer ends, although I'll ride until it snows. Heck, last year I rode after it snowed. 20 degrees is kind of pushing it though.

 

.

 

Did you bleed the port near the steering head?

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