Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

What are you guys using for oil in these V4 machines? I want to get mine all changed so I know it's been done. Is synthetic what is recommended? Regular weight oil? What kind of spark plugs? Pardon my asking but as stated before, I am new to the V4 side of things.

Thanks all!

Posted

Welcome.. It would help if you told us the year of your bike.. 1st Gen or 2nd Gen.. I had a first gen and used rotella motor oil the whole time I had it and it was great. BUT on the 2nd gen that same oil caused a whine that I could not take.. so I've been experimenting with oil to get something that works for me and now I'm using Castrol 20/50 non synthetic and seems to work well for me.. I tried synthetic as well but I like to change my oil frequently so the expense is not necessary in my opinion..

Posted

Crap! I was thinking I posted in my original thread.

2004 Midnight Royal Star Venture. 22,000 miles. Previous owner said he used Amsoil. I personally think the motor kinda whines, as you stated. Runs great though.

 

Sent from my SM-N900R4 using Tapatalk

Posted

For my 89 VR, I use the Rotella 15w-40 diesel grade oil as it has no friction modifiers in it. With a wet clutch you dont want those do you need to be very careful when using automotive oils and they use the modifiers in them to reduce the friction. Not sure what you are riding, but your pictures looks to be a 2nd Gen and you should be able to use the Rotella in a dino or synthetic version as they have both.

Good Luck

Rick F.

Posted

I use the Rotella. Weather in syn or dino. Both are good oils. A galon of the dino will run you about 20 bucks and the syn 22 @ wally world.

Posted

I have been using Valvoline 10W-40 motorcycle oil.

But after the events of this spring and the last week, I am rethinking that choice.

 

The Valvoline does not leave much of a protective film on engine parts.

I had my valve cover off for 3 days with the bike in the shed, it did not rain during this time. Last night when I went to put the valve cover back on I noticed that all of the cam lobes showed slight surface rust. The engine was still hot from running when I took the valve cover off. The oil film was not able to protect the cam from atmospheric moisture for 3 days. That aint very good.

 

I figure that if there is not enough film to protect against simple humidity, then there is nothing left to lubricate the cam at startup either.

 

I am not sure what my new choice will be yet. I have till Saturday to decide......

Posted

I have been using the Rotella T-6 for three years no with no issues and the gallon jug is about perfect for an oil/filter change.

Posted

Venture and FJ: yamalube.

 

My diesel truck: Rotella T-6

 

Wife's minivan (and pretty much all my gassers before oit): Mobile 1 synthetic.

 

Personally, I prefer to use a product that I know was designed for the application.

 

I prefer yamalube in my Yamaha's beciase I found they shifted a little better with it in the cases.

 

My interceptor gets hp4. It's still got the original "chocolate cams" from 1985 in it and runnin fine.

 

That's not to say others won't work as long as you understand you may (or may not) be leaving something on the table in the process.

 

Price is pretty moot in my experience, especially when talking 3-4 liters. Usually the price difference is only 5-10 bucks between "special" oil and "regular" oil on a change. If I can't afford that, I'm in big trouble anyways....

 

But, at the end of the day, it's your choice what you use.

 

:)

Posted

My cars - Mobil 1

My Road Glide - Mobil 1

My boat - Mobil 1

My Waverunners - Mobil 1

Ventures that I have owned - Mobil 1

My lawnmower - Mobil 1

 

I use the motorcycle specific Mobil 1 in bikes.

Posted
My cars - Mobil 1

My Road Glide - Mobil 1

My boat - Mobil 1

My Waverunners - Mobil 1

Ventures that I have owned - Mobil 1

My lawnmower - Mobil 1

 

I use the motorcycle specific Mobil 1 in bikes.

 

 

 

Just because you started them off wrong don't mean they have to stay that way.....:innocent-emoticon::Avatars_Gee_George::mugshot:

Posted

Oil threads are always fun!! Puc is the expert with the miles he puts on his $700+ bikes, anything handy including Walmart oil. If it meets the SAE spec the engine will like it. Maybe not the clutch or gearbox.

Posted

You would like to think there would be an oil film on the cams wouldnt you. But actually with the covers on I dont think you have that issue as it "sealed" so to speak. But I think I get what your saying. If it didnt have a coating for a couple days, what the heck happens on a start up after those same amount of days.

Posted

I don't know, you do get condensation inside of an engine. There is a lot of moisture in blow by and all ringed engines have blow by. When the engine cools, that moisture is going to condense somewhere, and since the engine is basically sealed that condensate will sit there until the next time the engine is warmed up.

 

I would think that the condensate would form on the parts of the engine that get cool the fastest, like the inside of the valve covers. but that moisture is still there.

 

All I know is that the oil I have been using could not protect bare metal for 2 days while indoors.

None of the major brands mention anything about rust protection on their websites.

 

I think I am going to give Castrol a try. When I had the race car the engine was often left open for days at a time and nothing ever rusted. That engine got nothing but Castrol (They were a sponsor on the car). That engine never had an oil related problem and was pumping out 658 HP (dynoed) from a small block Chevy at 8,000 rpm all summer long on a 1/3 mile oval.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...