CLASS Problems and Where T Buy Dessicant

[Vonwolf]

Sorry Duplicate post and I can't delete it

Edited August 8, 2015 by Vonwolf
Duplicate Post

[Droneh8tr]

How much do you need? I have some left over from when I did mine that I could send you... Just pay for shipping of course.

[Vonwolf]

How much do you need? I have some left over from when I did mine that I could send you... Just pay for shipping of course.

 

Thanks' I dumped all of it on the floor and they were all pink anyway so I need to replace it all, I'm not really sure how much it takes. I would be grateful for what you can spare. I'll PM you my address so you give me a shipping cost

[dna9656]

Wal Mart has "dryease" or something like that. It was in a blue and white tub in Sporting Goods. It's used to keep campers dry...Scoop up what spilled on the floor, get it all together and measure it in a measuring cup, then you'll know how much you need.

[Prairiehammer]

Yamaha specifies 60 grams (2.11 ounces) of desiccant.

The Yamaha part number is 31M-22945-00-00. Retails for $106 if available.

There is 31M-22945-00-00 available here on eBay for $26. http://www.ebay.com/itm/N-O-S-YAMAHA-P-N-31M-22945-00-00-AIR-DRYER-DESICANT-XVZ1300-XVZ-1200-/360728941233?hash=item53fd1ed2b1&vxp=mtr

However, most any desiccant will work, as long as the silica gel particles are not too fine.

Saturated silica gel (pink color) can be dried and reused by placing into a low oven until the desiccant is dry (blue in color).

[Marcarl]

You can dry it out in the microwave, just takes a couple of 2 minute sessions.

[Great White]

I just heat mine in the oven until it's dry. When it's cool, I just dump it back in the dryer housing and reassemble.

 

It's almost limitlessly reusable stuff....

[Vonwolf]

Thanks for all the information, I had no idea it could be reused. I was actually quite surprised when it dumped all over my workbench and floor, other than seeing rice in salt shakers and some of those little paper bags you see sometimes I've never had to mess with the stuff so it was unexpected on my part. I straightened that little wire "C" clip trying to pull it out and the compressor will not cooperate with me so it looks like I'll be learning all about this thing, like it or not.

[dna9656]

Hook the compressor up to a battery, does it run? if it does your problem lies elsewhere unless you got a blown cylinder seal or some thing...run continuity tests on all your wires but remember just because a wire passes voltage doesn't mean it'll pass amperage....strange huh? Check for green crud in your wires, THAT"S what causes wire to carry voltage but NOT amperage...The older the harness the more likely corrosion has made it's way into your wires....

[Vonwolf]

Hook the compressor up to a battery, does it run? if it does your problem lies elsewhere unless you got a blown cylinder seal or some thing...run continuity tests on all your wires but remember just because a wire passes voltage doesn't mean it'll pass amperage....strange huh? Check for green crud in your wires, THAT"S what causes wire to carry voltage but NOT amperage...The older the harness the more likely corrosion has made it's way into your wires....

 

That’s what I don't understand if I just hook 12v to the red/black wires from the compressor it will work fine, there is suction at the intake and it blows air. Hooked up to the bike and it doesn't pump air anymore, it runs, the solenoids engage, but no air and a small amount of air blows out the intake hose, not a lot of air it just kind of expels air when it should be sucking it in and after a few seconds I get an E2 error code. The contacts are clean and seem to be working, well as clean as a 30-year-old connection can

[Marcarl]

There are 2 electrical connections for the unit. Hook only the pump connection together, red and black wire to see if it runs,, maybe not, maybe you'll get an error.

The air lines run from the pump to the desiccant container then to the valves. Check to make sure the desiccant is clear and no blockage in the hose. Take the valves apart, clean them and make sure the seats are in good shape. A bit of corrosion on the seats will produce your problem. Careful when you pull the valves apart, small springs tend to head south quickly and then hide out of sight.

[Prairiehammer]

Before you disassemble the solenoid valves, check the reed valve at the inlet to the valve body. The reed valve acts as a check valve, air travels only in one direction through it. If debris is caught in the reed valve, it will not perform as a check valve. Most common cause of reed valve failure is a particle of desiccant caught in it.

 

Insure that the solenoid valves are actually opening and closing fully.

 

Make sure the intake (suction) air filter is clean and free flowing.

 

Finally, the Teflon piston ring may be worn out. The compressor will seem to function when freely running, but the back pressure when installed in the bike causes blowby past the piston.

Edited August 10, 2015 by Prairiehammer

[Vonwolf]

Thanks; it looks like I have to tear it apart a little further, the blow by seems like a possibility and the valves seem to create instant back pressure so they have to come apart as well. Springs and small parts always seem to launch to parts unknown on me so the advice is appreciated

[Vonwolf]

I finally got around to microwaving what pink BB's I could save and they did turn Blue, it was really cool! I had them in a coffee mug, waived them for about 90 seconds, burned the hell out of my hand when I grabbed the mug, but I had blue BB's in there, it doesn't take much to keep me entertained. Thanks for the advice

[Vonwolf]

I want to thank Droneh8tr for the Desiccant it worked out great, just the right amount I needed.

I disassembled the valve body and blew it out with compressed air, all the solenoids are working,but it seems like it takes a lot of pressure to get air trough the valve body itself let alone get pressure enough to inflate the shocks, is this pressure-demand normal at the valve body?The compressor runs good and it looks good on the inside not too worn out, but when I put it all back together and install it in the bike it's the same old problems. It builds a little more pressure only around 5 Lbs to the rear and that's it, after a bit I get E2 error. I have to guess the compressor piston just can't build up pressure and times out. I doubt there are parts to rebuild the piston and I don't like the idea of buying a 30 plus year old part and expect much more out of it, but I doubt there are other options available.

 

 

Edited August 18, 2015 by Vonwolf
Dumb question, I Looked it up in service manual

[Prairiehammer]

Try this:

CLASS System Compressor Ring Repair

I was having problems with the CLASS air compressor on my '88 Royale. From 0 psi, it would pump the rear shock to about 52 psi before giving an error E3, “compressor on too long”. Repeating the attempt to increase pressure resulted in about a 1 psi increase before stopping with an E2 error, “air pressure not increasing”.

 

It appeared that the compressor was running, but could not produce enough pressure to satisfy the CLASS computer's diagnostics. When a reciprocating piston engine loses compression it may be caused by a blown head gasket, leaking valves, worn piston rings or internal damage. Disassembly of the CLASS compressor was in order to determine the apparent lack of compression.

 

Removing the assembly was pretty easy. There are three electrical connectors to remove, one to the compressor motor, one to the bleed valve and one to the manifold assembly. Remove the banjo fittings for the front and rear air lines. (Caution: reduce the pressure to 7 PSI before doing this). Then the whole compressor/valve/drier assembly lifts out off the studs that the cover attaches to.

 

Next, remove the air line from the compressor to the drier. Disconnect the fitting at the valve, then loosen the clamp for the drier and remove the air line fitting on the drier that goes to the compressor. With the air line now disconnected, remove the compressor from its mounting bracket.

 

Now, one can fit a wrench to remove the air line. Clamp the compressor in a vice, with the compressor head facing up. Remove four head bolts/screws and remove the head. Two thin pieces of metal form a reed valve at the intake port. Remove them. The body of the compressor contains a sintered metal insert that acts as a cylinder. The cylinder head seals to that insert via an O-ring.

 

Re-orient the compressor in the vice so that the motor is straight up. There are six screws facing upwards. The middle two secure the motor to the body and do not need to be removed. I removed the outer four screws and separated the compressor case. The motor side has a simple gear reduction from the motor with a small crank pin sticking out. The piston and rod will be lying in the bottom half of the case. I pulled the cylinder/piston assembly from the head and pulled the piston from the cylinder. After washing everything in solvent, I could see no damage. The piston has a single Teflon looking piston ring on it. The piston ring didn't seem to stick out much from the skirt. I was confident that Yamaha did not sell a replacement. I wondered how I could make the ring thicker. Some oil rings on automotive engines are multi-piece. They have a wavy steel spring that fits in the groove, and then the oil ring sits on top of that wavy spring. The spring presses against the oil rings forcing them outward. So, I took a piece of paper and cut a string 1 7/8" long (the circumference of the piston ring groove) by 1/8", the width of the ring) and placed it in the groove and then put the ring on top of it. I slid the piston back into the cylinder. It was too tight. I measured the thickness of the paper as .005".

 

I went on a hunt and found some thin tissue paper. It measured just a touch over .001". I cut a strip from this tissue paper. I put the piston in the cylinder and felt a little bit of resistance, not too much. I lubricated the piston with a very light coat of Vaseline and replaced the piston in the cylinder and reinstalled the cylinder in the compressor housing. I smeared molybdenum grease on the crank pin and a thin coat of RTV on the mating surfaces on the compressor housing and reassembled the compressor, making sure that the crank pin went into the piston rod.

 

I cleaned the reed valve inserts as well as the head. I installed the reed valve inserts in the recess at the top of the cylinder, observing that the alignment notch was properly oriented. I cleaned the head and put a thin coat of Vaseline on the intake port and on the O-ring. I couldn't readily figure out how to clean the exhaust port. There is a bolt on the top of the head that presses on a spring that closes the exhaust port. I removed the bolt and the spring, but the valve stayed in. I put the head back on and tightened the screws. I reassembled everything and installed the assembly on the bike. I flipped the ignition to the “accessory” position and depressed the “H” (high) button. The digital readout indicated that the compressor pumped up to 70 psi and shut off; as designed. I bled the pressure down to 43 psi. Again, commanding high pressure, the compressor pumped back up to 70 psi indicated with no errors.

 

Since I have aftermarket Progressive® springs in the front forks and like the handling with no air pressure in the forks, I left the front air line disconnected. I capped that air line by placing two rubber washers, one on each side of the banjo fitting, and bolting them together with a 1/4" bolt and two steel washers. That will keep any dirt or moisture out of the air lines. On the valve side, I bought an M8x1.0 bolt and cut it short, probably 15-20mm and screwed that into the valve body, seating it against the o-ring. I saved the banjo bolt in the event I wished to return the CLASS function.

 

The whole operation took less than an hour and didn't require any special tools, other than a micrometer to measure the paper ring spacer.

 

Larry Piekarski

Edited August 18, 2015 by Prairiehammer

[Vonwolf]

Thanks, Kevin I'll definitely give this a shot I'm sure any 30-year-old pump is going to have the same problem to some degree no matter how well treated. I shot about 110 lbs of air from my shop compressor straight into the rear shock and as I suspected it didn't inflate at all. I've felt the rear shock had a problem since I bought the bike it just never ran well enough for it to be an issue, now it appears I can't ignore it anymore it