lonestarmedic Posted July 28, 2015 Share #1 Posted July 28, 2015 I decided to try one that could be bought through Amazon on Prime. That way I could have a hassle free return. I ran into a unit from a place called OPT-7. A lot of claims about reliability, waterproof, bright, and working correctly. It came in and I pulled the headlight and followed the directions. It went in as described. I tucked the little driver module up in the wiring harness and hit the switch. All I can say is WOW!!!!! The beam is bright white and focused really well. No dark spots and it has a nice vertical cutoff. Spread is fantastic. Lights up the road edge much better. I set the vertical where I thought it should be by measuring against my garage wall. Bike with tire touching wall I marked beam top cutoff. Backed up 30 feet and put the cutoff edge 2 inches below the first mark. Waited until dark and went to field test. I took a major 2 lane state route and passed about 15-20 oncoming cars with no one flashing me. Low beam out there about 2-3 times brighter. Went to a straight deserted level road and checked hi beam. It kicked out there and really did its job. about twice the distance out from the edge of the low beam. I could not be happier. Then I kicked on my Rigid LED driving lights in addition. This bike lights up the night like the sun. And the LEDs are super efficient. Yes, the LED headlight tripped the CMU and threw a headlamp out indication. But, it did NOT trip the Reserve Lighting Unit!! They claim Can-Bus compatible. But I did not expect it to be fully compatible with a 30 year old system. So, I have removed the Reserve Lighting unit, jumpered the CMU system and all is good. This unit is about $55-$60.00. My opinion is very worth the trouble. I put another post up showing the rear of the CMU on my 1986. And there are write ups on jumpering the RLU. But, if anyone want my version just ask. JB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bert2006 Posted July 28, 2015 Share #2 Posted July 28, 2015 Any pictures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted July 28, 2015 Share #3 Posted July 28, 2015 Info on exactly what you bought? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankd Posted July 28, 2015 Share #4 Posted July 28, 2015 Also let us know if it causes and RFI (radio frequency interference). Assuming your radios work, please tune in a weak FM station with the key in ACC, and then turn the key to ON and see what happens. Then tune the CB to CH 19 and do the same test. You can turn the key back and forth to turn the headlight on and off to tell if there is any difference. I had the Cycle Gear LED on my 89 and when I moved to Tennessee I really noticed how the interference kept me from hearing the weaker stations. I put a stock headlight bulb back in for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted July 28, 2015 Share #5 Posted July 28, 2015 (edited) JB, Since LED's are coming into their own, might I suggest you continue your post with install info and pics as well as RFI interference tests and current draw of your unit. I, for one, would like an LED headlight...but am waiting to hear more about the coverage and issues before I jump min. Thanks! david Well...just a few posts down the road I run across your post on the mods you did with pictures. Thanks! Do have one question: Went to web site...the motorcycle bulb unit doesn't say anything about hi/low beam??? Edited July 28, 2015 by videoarizona update Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestarmedic Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share #6 Posted July 28, 2015 (edited) To answer a few questions, the 9003/H4 unit I put in does have a hi/low beam that works well. I did not notice any interference from high frequency but I will check. Currently I run Pandora on my phone mounted to the right handlebar. It goes into the stock system. The LED unit seems to draw about 3.5 amps. Not sure as I checked it with my inductive clamp on meter. At any rate it is very low draw. Website says it is a 40 watt unit. It is from Opt-7. Listed under their motorcycle selection. You can also find it on Amazon. I did not do an install on it because it is straight forward. The bulb removes from the base for easy of installation. The fan unit on the rear blocks the mounting clip from swinging down. 1) Of course access headlight. Remove upper chrome trim, the colored bezel and take out two large Phillips at the top of the headlight module. 2) Remove old bulb, wrap in something and save. 3) Set aside the rubber dust cover to be stored away or trimmed for install around the headlight. Fan unit sticks out back and cannot be covered. 4) Plug the little regulator/driver module into the stock connector. It is the size of about 4 SD card stacked' 5) I put it up in the harness behind and to the left of the headlight (direction of travel) To the right is the horizontal aiming adjuster. 6) DO NOT mount anything behind the bucket. There is plenty of clearance for the new unit, but nothing else. Any stock wires are ok. 7) Remove LED headlight from mounting ring. Not orientation as to what faces into the headlight. 8) Drop tabbed mounting ring into headlamp bucket. It is indexed and fits only one way. 9) LED unit is also indexed to the mount plate. Push in and turn to lock. 10) Plug pigtail into the little driver and that is it. Guide bucket back in place and pay attention to wires etc. 11) Turn on and check results. If you are like my 1986 the hi/low will work just fine. But the CMU will have a warning light for headlight out. I chose to remove the Reserve Lighting Unit and alter the Computer Monitor Unit. The unit is a cool idea but can mess with modern LED and HID headlights. I will take a picture I guess tonight. Did not think folks wanted a picture of glaring headlights. I left the rubber dust cover off for now. But think I will trim it to fit around the base of the new LED unit. Not tight to interfere, but enough to provide a bit of coverage. In the other thread for the alteration of the CMU, Prairiehammer added pictures for me with the various components labeled. Do NOT be staring at it close up when you turn it on!! The light is almost pure white. Maybe a touch of blue. I think it is in the 6000K range. If this bulb continues to perform well, I cannot see going back to a standard bulb. We are Heading to Houston early Saturday morning. And I have a Garmin Virb camcorder mounter facing forward. Guess that is a setup for a film clip of LED in action. Anything else, just ask. J.B. Edited July 28, 2015 by lonestarmedic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cimmer Posted July 29, 2015 Share #7 Posted July 29, 2015 (edited) Is this the unit you purchased? http://www.amazon.com/OPT7-Motorcycle-Headlight-Arc-Glass%2599-Clear/dp/B00WVJR0D8/ref=sr_1_1?&ie=UTF8&qid=1438133431&sr=8-1&keywords=OPT-7+motorcycle Thanks Rick F. Edited July 29, 2015 by cimmer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestarmedic Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share #8 Posted July 29, 2015 Yes that is the headlight I installed. A bit of work. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestarmedic Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share #9 Posted July 29, 2015 But the work was worth it in my opinion. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geobob Posted July 30, 2015 Share #10 Posted July 30, 2015 I really want to do this mod. I have a thing about poor headlight performance. J I am having trouble on the opt7 web site finding the product. Pictures would great. This sounds like a must do modification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geobob Posted July 30, 2015 Share #11 Posted July 30, 2015 I am seeing only one optionunder that part number and it is the 35w Slim HID kit. It is only $21.95. They have others but not under that part number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestarmedic Posted July 30, 2015 Author Share #12 Posted July 30, 2015 Look under Motorcycle LED. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestarmedic Posted July 30, 2015 Author Share #13 Posted July 30, 2015 The Amazon link goes correctly to the correct light bulb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geobob Posted July 31, 2015 Share #14 Posted July 31, 2015 Thanks I see which one you installed. I am looking forward to this work. Not just a repair but an actual improvement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestarmedic Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share #15 Posted August 2, 2015 (edited) LED headlight results: 1) The OPT-7 unit does NOT seem to emit any RF on my bike. I use an aux. input through the 1st Gen cassette player modification. I am sending my phone through and streaming Pandora radio or MP3s. I do have a stereo ground isolator between the phone and the input. I had to put this in for the normal ground problems not the LED. 2) I do know the problem with the LED emitting a hum in a stereo. My first Rigid LED driving lights had it badly. And Rigid did a recall on the lights and replaced the driver circuit. When I got the lights back, the hum/static was gon. 3) You can hear the little cooling fan on the LED when you turn on the ignition just before you start the bike. I actually now listen for it. 4) I uploaded a video clip onto my Facebook page. I am am public. Joseph Slye. My cousin is Joe Slye. I am the one in Floresville, Texas. (joseph.slye.7 on FB) 5) I am thoroughly amazed at the quality of the light and its performance. I have chopped out the reserve lighting unit permanently and modified the harness. It will still work for a standard bulb should I need it. I did retain a headlight indicator out signal. TURN ON BIKE. IF AREA AHEAD OF YOU IS DARK, A BEAM IS OUT! Seriously. I have the headlight on my walk around every morning anyway. Here are some pictures of the headlight on our dark rural road. Pictures were snapped in motion using my Garmin Virb action cam. It does video and will take still at the same time. Inside dark garage out to driveway. Out on road. Should be low beam. I believe high beam High beam and Rigid LED driving lights Edited August 2, 2015 by lonestarmedic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geobob Posted August 2, 2015 Share #16 Posted August 2, 2015 Ok what is the reserve lighting unit. Is this what has my warning light on saying I have a light out or headlight out but I really dont. I tried doing a search but nothing came up. And will this LED light fit in where the old one did. And did the headlight cover fit back on. For the money its worth just ordering it and trying to figure out how to install it but i am curious and a bit confused. Strange i seem to be that way most of time these days LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted August 3, 2015 Share #17 Posted August 3, 2015 The RLU (Reserve Lighting Unit) is a module under the dash, about the size of a pack of cigarets. The job of the RLU is to monitor the headlight. IF the head light burn out while riding it automatically switches to the other beam so that it does not get suddenly dark. If you have the low beam on and it burns out it will switch to HI beam. OR if you have Hi beam on it will switch to low. When activated it will also turn on the white "Headlamp" indicator on the dash. The RLU does not light the red warning on the dash. If you changed to a lower power bulb you may need to jumper the reed switches that monitor for a burned out bulb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geobob Posted August 3, 2015 Share #18 Posted August 3, 2015 Thanks that is very interesting. I have owned this bike for over 23 years and still learning about it. I dont recall if the bulb is the right one or not. I do know that I learned my lesson on my CBX about installing a higher wattage bulb. It destroyed the reflective coating in there and now it does not light up much at all. So I guess it is possible that it is a lower wattage bulb. I will have to check it but really I want to chuck it and put in the LED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestarmedic Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share #19 Posted August 3, 2015 The RLU on my 1986 was forward of the instrument cluster. It sits on a steel tab using rubber sleeve as a mount. Yes the LED fits in the stock housing and there is just enough room behind the housing. Rubber dust boot will not go back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geobob Posted August 9, 2015 Share #20 Posted August 9, 2015 So ismit safe to say installation will include removing outer fairing. that is not a big deal, I was just thinking about other things that could be done at the same time like runing wires for the running/drivi g lights and a stereo power booster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geobob Posted August 9, 2015 Share #21 Posted August 9, 2015 What model of ridgid lights did you install. I looked at their website and saw som rather large square ones on a bike. Where didmyou mount your lightsI decided to try one that could be bought through Amazon on Prime. That way I could have a hassle free return. I ran into a unit from a place called OPT-7. A lot of claims about reliability, waterproof, bright, and working correctly. It came in and I pulled the headlight and followed the directions. It went in as described. I tucked the little driver module up in the wiring harness and hit the switch. All I can say is WOW!!!!! The beam is bright white and focused really well. No dark spots and it has a nice vertical cutoff. Spread is fantastic. Lights up the road edge much better. I set the vertical where I thought it should be by measuring against my garage wall. Bike with tire touching wall I marked beam top cutoff. Backed up 30 feet and put the cutoff edge 2 inches below the first mark. Waited until dark and went to field test. I took a major 2 lane state route and passed about 15-20 oncoming cars with no one flashing me. Low beam out there about 2-3 times brighter. Went to a straight deserted level road and checked hi beam. It kicked out there and really did its job. about twice the distance out from the edge of the low beam. I could not be happier. Then I kicked on my Rigid LED driving lights in addition. This bike lights up the night like the sun. And the LEDs are super efficient. Yes, the LED headlight tripped the CMU and threw a headlamp out indication. But, it did NOT trip the Reserve Lighting Unit!! They claim Can-Bus compatible. But I did not expect it to be fully compatible with a 30 year old system. So, I have removed the Reserve Lighting unit, jumpered the CMU system and all is good. This unit is about $55-$60.00. My opinion is very worth the trouble. I put another post up showing the rear of the CMU on my 1986. And there are write ups on jumpering the RLU. But, if anyone want my version just ask. JB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestarmedic Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share #22 Posted August 9, 2015 I have the D2 Dually Spot lights. Not cheap but lifetime guarantee. And they honored it. Had circuit boards that caused radio interference. They did a recall and fixed asap. If I remember they sent a call tag. I asked them to fix the plug leads. They installed a set of 14 inch so the comnector was behind the fairing edge. My mounts are a set of rare Ventureline mounts. Before that I had a set that Squidley used to sell. All of LED driving will have black surface, cooling fins, and a more industrial look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestarmedic Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share #23 Posted August 9, 2015 http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/09/f0506927d1e2ae0cd3cfb06e67ea5122.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/09/7e631263d24e6331f4d5b1aed7ab92be.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/09/65ccf919025edfdf632071d1fb493a35.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestarmedic Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share #24 Posted August 9, 2015 The horns are pointed forward using an L bracket made out of 1/4" steel. The original tabs on both these and the Squidley brackets attach at the horn mounting point. Squidley used the factory horn bracket with the locator tab. The Ventureline mounts remove the little horn bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geobob Posted August 10, 2015 Share #25 Posted August 10, 2015 Very interesting mounts. I have never seen those. I was tninking of just putting a mount on the engin gard where I have the highway boards like you have. Your not kidding about the price. $279 for the pair and then the mounting hardware for another $79. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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