Progressive front fork springs

[blaine1]

is there a kit you can buy with the all the parts you need to install blaine for a 1987 venture royal

[Flyinfool]

When you buy the progressive springs the material for the spacer is included. You have to cut the spacer to length so that you can tune for your preference. the only other thing needed is new fork oil. You have to get the oil separate because they do not know which weight you will want or your brand preference.

[lonestarmedic]

Installing just springs is done from the top. Remove bars and bar mount. Use big allen wrench to unscrew top plugs. Curse because you did not drop pressure on front forks and got oil all over. Pull little phillips screws at bottom of forks and drain. Unscrew second top plug. Fish out springs and spacer tubes. Flush forks with something like kerosene. Drain out or shove shop rag in top around a air hose blow tip and pressurize slightly. Put in new springs, washers, and spacers. Fill with proper amount of fork oil. Install plugs. Realize new springs need serious compression to get plugs installed. Get big allen wrench socket on 1/2 inch drive. Stand on pegs up and over forks. Press down on ratchet, extension and socket. Make sure plugs are not cross threaded by turning plug counterclockwise until you feel a click as threads line up. Carefully screw in. Curse and pull apart because you forgot a washer. Line up and re-install. Get other side installed. Reassemble bars.

[BlueSky]

Needless to say I'm sure, but support the front of the bike first!!!

[blaine1]

is there a after market bracket to put on to to make it better more stable blaine

[Flyinfool]

Installing just springs is done from the top. Remove bars and bar mount. Use big allen wrench to unscrew top plugs. Curse because you did not drop pressure on front forks and got oil all over. Pull little phillips screws at bottom of forks and drain. Unscrew second top plug. Fish out springs and spacer tubes. Flush forks with something like kerosene. Drain out or shove shop rag in top around a air hose blow tip and pressurize slightly. Put in new springs, washers, and spacers. Fill with proper amount of fork oil. Install plugs. Realize new springs need serious compression to get plugs installed. Get big allen wrench socket on 1/2 inch drive. Stand on pegs up and over forks. Press down on ratchet, extension and socket. Make sure plugs are not cross threaded by turning plug counterclockwise until you feel a click as threads line up. Carefully screw in. Curse and pull apart because you forgot a washer. Line up and re-install. Get other side installed. Reassemble bars.

 

:sign yeah that:

Sounds like something I would do......:rotf:

[Flyinfool]

There is the @Condor brace or Super Brace to stabilize the front end. But it has nothing to do with the spring change.

[Max]

This thread by Freebird was great help first time I rebuilt mine.

A ton of good info via 'search' tool. Good luck.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?496-Fork-Seal-Replacement

 

[blaine1]

thanks a lot for info blaine

[Venturous Randy]

When I put Progressives in my 83, I did not use any spacers and it worked out perfect for me. I did not want to raise the front of the bike any and with no spacers it still raised it some. It's not that big of a deal to go back and add spacers and without spacers it may be just right for you.

Randy

[Condor]

Even as heavy as I am I cut the preload PVC's in half, and still used the CLASS. Worked great for me.... I bet if I had not shortened them the '83 would have rode like a brick??

[KISA]

Spring-Progressive Suspention. PVC-stock, oil 15W, ~400g*2, no pressure, no CLASS) Raider-120kg. All right)))

[jasonm.]

1st don't forget to loosen the top triple clamps...otherwise the caps can't come out. 2nd...400cc is too much oil. With this much oil...less air in the forks can be compressed due to the reason listed below, and you have unknowingly added a significant air-spring. These Progressive springs takes up MUCH more air space as because they wind down almost full length of the forks. Compared to the OEM "joke" springs. Thus less room for oil. Start out at 340cc. In each tube I have approx 340cc with one of the OEM washers on top of the spring and 3/4" pvc spacer . No air pressure needed, My stationary "sag" is ~ 2"....leaving 3+" for the big bumps. I found any sag less than 2" was just too stiff. I am 185#. This is 25 years with this bike and multiple adjustments to this set up. This works the best for me. Ideal oil is 12w if you can find it. I forgot who makes it.

[syscrusher]

1st don't forget to loosen the top triple clamps...otherwise the caps can't come out. 2nd...400cc is too much oil. With this much oil...less air in the forks can be compressed due to the reason listed below, and you have unknowingly added a significant air-spring.

I am 185#. This is 25 years with this bike and multiple adjustments to this set up. This works the best for me. Ideal oil is 12w if you can find it. I forgot who makes it.

 

 

I have had the caps out on my 1993 without loosening the top triple clamp many times, until I replaced tubes after my accident. If the clamps were loosened I wonder if it wouldn't require aligning the forks again to be sure it's all OK.

 

I used ATF in mine this last time because I was expecting I may have to redo and I didn't want to waste money on fork oil. I added 13.5 ounces as the Tech Library entry said. I also capped the anti-dives, which I suppose means I need even less oil. It does some pogo-ing on the crappy concrete with repeating surface imperfections. I wondered if my ATF was too light to provide rebound damping, but after reading your post I now wonder if I have too much oil and an "air spring" effect is causing the pogo-ing?

[jasonm.]

I have had the caps out on my 1993 without loosening the top triple clamp many times, until I replaced tubes after my accident. If the clamps were loosened I wonder if it wouldn't require aligning the forks again to be sure it's all OK.

 

I used ATF in mine this last time because I was expecting I may have to redo and I didn't want to waste money on fork oil. I added 13.5 ounces as the Tech Library entry said. I also capped the anti-dives, which I suppose means I need even less oil. It does some pogo-ing on the crappy concrete with repeating surface imperfections. I wondered if my ATF was too light to provide rebound damping, but after reading your post I now wonder if I have too much oil and an "air spring" effect is causing the pogo-ing?

 

The clamps I speak of CLAMP the fork tubes at the top. 4 bolts in all. 2 by each cap. They must be loosened a little. The the caps come out easily..no resistance with 17mm allen. Otherwise you could be be damaging the threads. Yes ATF varies by manufacturers. Ford ATF may be different than Toyota. No realignment needed if all is done on the center stand and you are NOT whacking it about. Also fork oil is about $10/qt. no sense in being cheap, as all fork oil turns to crap after about 5 years

Edited July 27, 2015 by jasonm.

[syscrusher]

The clamps I speak of CLAMP the fork tubes at the top. 4 bolts in all. 2 by each cap. They must be loosened a little. The the caps come out easily..no resistance with 17mm allen. Otherwise you could be be damaging the threads. Yes ATF varies by manufacturers. Ford ATF may be different than Toyota. No realignment needed if all is done on the center stand and you are NOT whacking it about. Also fork oil is about $10/qt. no sense in being cheap, as all fork oil turns to crap after about 5 years

 

I guess the tops of my fork tubes have always been flush with the top of the clamps in the triple tree. This is how I installed the new tubes as well because it gave me a reference for the position of the tubes. The caps were never affected by the clamps on my 1993, maybe it's a little different than other model years. Unless, it just occurred to me that you may be suggesting that the clamp actually squeezes the tubes enough to deform them and put pressure on the fork caps?

 

When I changed fork tubes getting the top clamps tightened was one of the most difficult parts of the job since there is very little room in the steering cutout for a rachet with an allen bit on it or to move a 'L' shaped allen wrench more than a tiny bit at a time, as I recall.

[jasonm.]

the design is always flush on top due to the air plumbing design. A clamp bolts prevents twisting and turning. Those clamp bolts are to be torqued 14 ft/lbs each to keep the forks stable and aligned. Loosening for the clamps and caps will not cause issue when doing this service. Yes getting a torque wrench in is a pain but doable with the forks all the way left or right and trim pieces removed. Do not ignore this. I have the factory manual and this bike 27 years...

[GaryZ]

I replaced the fork springs with Progressives on two ZX11 Ninjas and my '85 VR.

Progressive suggested this method for getting the right amount of oil;

 

With springs and hardware out of fork, drain all oil out of each fork

Collapse the fork all the way

Add oil of choice until it is no less than 5.5" from the top of the fork

Less oil (more than 5.5") will reduce damping

extend fork and install spring and hardware

Repeat on other fork

 

I used a small carpenter's square to measure the level.

[dna9656]

Seems sound to me but I have zero exp!