1986 Venture Royale - Just Got It Running - I Have Some Questions

[ResilientMonkey]

Hey folks! It's been a bit since I posted here - busy working on the bike plus house plus the tractor - the usual stuff life throws at you!

 

So, as the thread is titled, I just got my 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale running! YAY!

 

Observations:

• THE POWER!
  
• THE POWER!
  
• THE POWER!
  
• The heat! Damn, I need those side covers or something!
  
• Did I mention the power?
  

 

I have questions though:

• Is it supposed to bottom out so easily? Coming out of my driveway or any kind of dip and the center stand hits. A: It's my driveway, I watched closely and the grade it's at is a bit much.
  
• Is it normal to only be able to touch your tippy-toes? With the above issue combined with this I don't think I can lower it! A: Not lowering it, getting used to it.
  
• Anyone know where I can get the panels that go in the side covers? Or can I just make some sort of panel in there to block the heat? A: Gonna make some of my own.
  
• Is it common to get the windshield cut down? Or do they make a shorter one? I need more wind. A: Will look into shortening it.
  

 

There are some things I have to fix also:

• Let go of throttle and it does not return by itself - something is binding. A: Ordered 2 new cables, just need to install.
  
• Rear tire does not hold air. A: Ride-On took care of it.
  
• Right turn signal was not working so I took apart the switch - lots of parts missing and broken. A: Ordered switch off Ebay, just gotta clean that one up and install.
  
• When I turn on the high beam, the light does not get brighter and all the illumination lights go out. A: Fixed by getting rid of old fuse box.
  
• I need to adjust the handlebars, looks like there are lots of adjustments that can be done . A: Adjusted outward one notch - I love it now!
  
• First real pothole I hit - by pothole I mean section of road that looks like it was bombed - I lost all the instruments! Also the illumination went out on the dash. Time to troubleshoot! A: Again, fixed by bypassing old fuse box.
  

 

I already ordered another left switch assembly. Any tips/advice on the rest would be great!

Edited July 31, 2015 by ResilientMonkey
Updates

[lonestarmedic]

Theottle- possibly as simple as gummed up lube under the right grip. Found it on mine when I bought it. Slid throttle tube off and cleaned inside and cleaned bar end.

 

Rear tire pretty easy. Hole in tire or valve stem problem.

 

Right switch sounds like root of electrical.

 

Losing dash lights sounds like the original fuse panel is bad. The clips lose tension over the years and actually break. Replace with an ATC fuse block.

 

Bottoming out sounds strange, especially one up. Check air suspension. Use soapy water on all hoses. Check the solenoid valves on compressor.

 

To remove throttle tube on right you may need to loosen the cable adjustments. One near throttle and maybe even the one at carbs. Good time to adjust anyway.

 

Good luck.

[ResilientMonkey]

Throttle- possibly as simple as gummed up lube under the right grip. Found it on mine when I bought it. Slid throttle tube off and cleaned inside and cleaned bar end.

Already did that, it's the between the throttle and the cruise junction. The cables are either sticking or kinked or pinched or something.

 

Rear tire pretty easy. Hole in tire or valve stem problem.

Guy who put tire on said the rim is rough. I may have to put a tube in it.

 

Right (do you mean left) switch sounds like root of electrical.

Yeah, it might be - bunch of little parts broken or missing.

 

Losing dash lights sounds like the original fuse panel is bad. The clips lose tension over the years and actually break. Replace with an ATC fuse block.

Already bought it, just need to install it!

 

Bottoming out sounds strange, especially one up. Check air suspension. Use soapy water on all hoses. Check the solenoid valves on compressor.

Something I just thought of, maybe the spring on the stand is weak and it's dropping easily? I will check the rest.

 

To remove throttle tube on right you may need to loosen the cable adjustments. One near throttle and maybe even the one at carbs. Good time to adjust anyway.

True enough, thanks!

 

Good luck.

Thanks again!

[lonestarmedic]

Pull cables and either flush and clean or replace them. I was pleasantly surprised the cables are not that expensive. I replaced a couple last week.

 

Stand spring could be weak. Also if not stock mufflers the stand is known to hang a bit lower with Jardine or Mac mufflers. I have Mac and had to do a bit of adjusting on the stand stop on the muffler. Also check spring around rear shock.

[ResilientMonkey]

Pull cables and either flush and clean or replace them. I was pleasantly surprised the cables are not that expensive. I replaced a couple last week.

 

Stand spring could be weak. Also if not stock mufflers the stand is known to hang a bit lower with Jardine or Mac mufflers. I have Mac and had to do a bit of adjusting on the stand stop on the muffler. Also check spring around rear shock.

 

I'll check prices on the cables, thanks!

 

And yes, the mufflers are stock. I just took a look at the bike (it's in the parking lot at my work) and the stand is up quite high. I'll play with it on my lunch break and see how strong the spring is.

[lonestarmedic]

Try Stadium Yamaha in Irving Texas. Good prices.

[paysaw]

Sounds like you have a bad fuse panel.Check your spring for your center stands as well.Also check the frame by the shock tower to see if there is not a crack and pushing frame parts down.It should not happen in that year but you never know.The hi beams are either the CMU, the relay for the low beam over ride.I have a spare CMU if you need one.If the rear tire does not hold air, it is time for a new one. If you see cupping or scalloping for sure it is done .The tire could be old and hard as rock.Not a safe situation to ride on especially in wet weather.It is like driving on a hockey puck.If the throttle is not returning check your grip.Make sure it in not binding. If free buy a new cable set to be safe.Check the coupler for the overdrive cables are not binding or there are frayed cables in that combining cable system unit.

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[ResilientMonkey]

Update! Went out to the bike at lunch, center stand spring appears fine. Also, bike would not start. Tried to make sure it was in neutral and found that the dash would turn on and off as I messed with the shift lever.

 

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[ResilientMonkey]

Sounds like you have a bad fuse panel.Check your spring for your center stands as well.Also check the frame by the shock tower to see if there is not a crack and pushing frame parts down.It should not happen in that year but you never know.The hi beams are either the CMU, the relay for the low beam over ride.I have a spare CMU if you need one.If the rear tire does not hold air, it is time for a new one. If you see cupping or scalloping for sure it is done .The tire could be old and hard as rock.Not a safe situation to ride on especially in wet weather.It is like driving on a hockey puck.If the throttle is not returning check your grip.Make sure it in not binding. If free buy a new cable set to be safe.Check the coupler for the overdrive cables are not binding or there are frayed cables in that combining cable system unit.

\

I will check those things as well. Note that the tire is brand new as is the stem, rim is what is leaking.

 

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[ResilientMonkey]

Oh hey, another quick question for you folks. What size is the PCV hose to the bottom of the airbox? I want to put a filter on the end of it instead of going nuts trying to connect it back to the airbox.

[lonestarmedic]

I think it is just about a metric 3/4" Might be 15mm.

 

Not sure how dash connects with shift lever. Only thing I am aware of is the gear position indicator. Think you have a lot of questionable wiring connections. And with a 30 year old bike, not unusual. I was pre-emptive on mime and found every ground and cleaned it up.

 

Oh, check the main fuse in the black holder that has a clear cover. I seem to remember corrosion on mine. The fuse there is an exposed metal link between 2 screws. There may be spares in a slot below the installed link. I replaced mine with a 40 amp MAX style fuse/

[Condor]

There's two things that were said and they seem to counter each other. #1 the bottoming out, and #2 the 'tippy toe' issue. On the tip toe. These 1stGens do sit higher than other bikes and shorter folks do have problems keeping it upright at stop lights. The only way that I'm aware of to get it a little lower is to modify the seat.. Also since it does sit high there should be plenty of room between the road and the side stand. Bottoming out may be caused by weak fork springs or the seals leak and the forks are low on fork oil. And.... if someone has been in the forks and not replaced the pre-load springs it will bottom out easily. Cure?? Pick up some Progressive Springs and install, and take some of the padding out of the saddle.

[ResilientMonkey]

I think it is just about a metric 3/4" Might be 15mm.

 

Not sure how dash connects with shift lever. Only thing I am aware of is the gear position indicator. Think you have a lot of questionable wiring connections. And with a 30 year old bike, not unusual. I was pre-emptive on mime and found every ground and cleaned it up.

 

Oh, check the main fuse in the black holder that has a clear cover. I seem to remember corrosion on mine. The fuse there is an exposed metal link between 2 screws. There may be spares in a slot below the installed link. I replaced mine with a 40 amp MAX style fuse/

 

Thanks for the tips! I went through the fuse box (well, what was left of it) and bypassed it completely. The wiring there was all messed up as well! Once I sorted the wiring out the electrical stuff now works great!

[ResilientMonkey]

There's two things that were said and they seem to counter each other. #1 the bottoming out, and #2 the 'tippy toe' issue. On the tip toe. These 1stGens do sit higher than other bikes and shorter folks do have problems keeping it upright at stop lights. The only way that I'm aware of to get it a little lower is to modify the seat.. Also since it does sit high there should be plenty of room between the road and the side stand. Bottoming out may be caused by weak fork springs or the seals leak and the forks are low on fork oil. And.... if someone has been in the forks and not replaced the pre-load springs it will bottom out easily. Cure?? Pick up some Progressive Springs and install, and take some of the padding out of the saddle.

 

I did replace the fork seals and refilled with fluid properly. However I left in the original springs - I just ordered a set of Progressive, we'll see how they do. I also found that while riding, I'll lose pressure in the CLASS system. If it sits overnight, the system holds pressure, but when I am riding it, the front and rear will go down to zero and I'll have to pump them up again.

[Flyinfool]

30 Year old stock springs and low air in the front is the ideal recipe for bottoming out the front. I found that lowering the air pressure in the back to near minimum and adding air to the front near maximum, did help my bottoming out, and helped with my feet on the ground.

[GeorgeS]

As to the front forks " bottoming out " . After you install the progressive springs, and Replace the fork oil, with a heavier Weight fork oil, you will find that you do not, even need any air pressure up front.

Also, the High Speed, handling on curvy roads, will be much Improved !!!

 

Also, if you install the Aftermarket, Fork Brace, this will IMPROVE, front end handling.

 

Of note: the stock Front End Set up on these bikes, was NOT, the best, actually it was Very Poor. I bought a new 89

model, back in 93. I did not like front end handling from the first day on the road. The Progressive springs, aftermarket fork brace,

and heavier fork oil, MUCH Improved the general Driving, and cornering ability of the bike !!! All these mods, Well Worth!! the money

and effort.

As far as your rear , new tire leaking, you better pull it off, and clean up the rim, or get another rim. They are not hard to find " Used "

 

As to installing a Tube, not a good idea. I highly Recommend the Dunlop, E-3 rear tire !!! Also, add a dose of " Ride - On " Sealer, It works

great !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

And-- if you have not done so, next time you pull the Rear, be sure to pull the drive shaft, and Hand Greese the Splines on the drive shaft.

[lonestarmedic]

Sounds like you have the electrical gremlins on the run!

 

As to losing air, sounds like dirt in the front seals. When the fork operates and moves the air is allowed to eacape. Before tearing down the forks, look up fork seal cleaners. Along the same lines as the old 35mm film film trick. Run the thin plastic between the seal and tube. Drag it all the way around and pull it up and out. Wipe off and repeat several times

Then roll forward and hit brakes a few times to compress, move, and reset the seals. Old dirt bike trick. Will not fix torn or worn out. Also when you pull up the dust boot clean it and the groove it sits in really well. Otherwise you shove a dirty boot back down and defeat the purpose. I think I bought about 6 of these gizmos for less than 10 bucks. Came in the mail in an envelope.

[lonestarmedic]

The rear is more difficult. I suspect you might almost have to remove shock to try the above. Usually not a grit problem there but a leak in the sustem. Easiest thing there would be a good used shock.

[lonestarmedic]

The tool I bought was from http://www.sealmate.net I know people make these out of all sorts of plastic, but I like the hook contour on these. I carry my spares in my owners manual.

[Condor]

If there are any hairlkine scratches on the fork tubes they will loose air when riding. Take a new microfiber towel and wipe the front tubes. Any scratches should be noticeable. On the rear it may be a leaking shock. Or.... break out the spritzer bottle with mild soapy water, and start spraying...

[philtrex]

Had same issue with rear tire added a dose of Slime and is holding air

[ResilientMonkey]

Looks like Ride-On has fixed the slow leak in the tire. Now it's just a VERY slow leak. About 1-2 lbs per week.

 

For the front suspension, I just got some Progressive fork springs. With any luck, I may not need to add air any more to the front

[theportunionkid]

Had bottom out issues after progressive front and rear. Discovered cntr stand spring weak. Took black 12ga solid copper house type wire (about 12 inches) tied it from stand out leg to passenger peg bottom with quick wrap of wire. problem solved! just a quick unwrap if I need to use center stand.

[Venturous Randy]

The best thing to do on the loose center stand is remove the spring and remove the long "C" shape bracket that connects to the spring. Then use a vice and hold the bracket so you can bend the bracket slightly to reduce the distance between the holes. Then, when you reinstall it the spring will be stretched and be much tighter.

Randy

[Doug royal86]

Fuse panel; I replaced mine with a panel from radio shack. There was a video or instruction on replacing the panel.. I was thinking someone on here made and sold panels at one time