May buy one need advice

[volmann]

Not sure what gen it is...1986

 

 

Going to see in a bit, but gun shy just got burnt on an old goldwing

 

Anyway it has 17k miles on it everything works...says it runs good but needs half choke to idle. and says it sounds like it needs a spark plug has slight slight miss...but not while doing 55...he did say it sat for 7 months and had bad gas smell. but its runs better everytime he rides it...said he has NOT put Seafoam in it

 

he asking 1200.00

Edited July 11, 2015 by volmann

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

great deal...... Seafoam in the fuel...... ride it like you stole it and it likely will it will clear it up

[Great White]

That would be, what they call on this forum,a Gen 1 MKII.

 

Decent price if as described.

 

figure on a carb pull and clean/rebuild if it won't idle without half choke.

 

bad spark plug caps are another culprit for bad running.

 

believe it or not, the big Yamaha v4 will actually seem like it's running half decently on 3 cylinders. If it misses at idle and needs half choke, guaranteed you have a dead (or weak) hole at speed. It's just masked by the other three.

 

Good news is carbs, plug caps or spark plugs usually cleans it up. If not, you're chasing corrosion in the wiring harness plugs somewhere (not hard to do, only a couple in the spark circuit) or the TCI needs work/replacement.

 

thats all relatively cheap stuff except the TCI. $100-200 will get you a used one, $300-400 will get you an aftermarket replacement one.

 

the brief description you've given here leads me to believe either carbs/plugs/caps are the problem

Edited July 12, 2015 by Great White

[MiCarl]

Sounds like a decent deal. If all the plastic is in good shape it's worth that for the parts.

 

Plan on cleaning and adjusting carbs, new brake fluid and a set of tires. Figure $1000 if you have it done.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Ed,

Welcome to the forum! I copied this post from the First Gen. Tech Section. You can view the entire Tech section by using this link:

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?13-First-Gen-Tech-Library-READ-ONLY!

 

 

Things I would Check!

 

Hey KIC,

Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum, you're home brother! The 1989 VR is the last year of the "Old Style" TCI in 1990, Yamaha went to the "improved version". This should not be a problem, plenty of them out there! (1984 to 1989 all fit)

Check all three brake rotors for "bluing", which means that they have been overheated from a dragging Caliper. The left front and rear Rotor are not available from Yamaha any more, and were spendy when they were. This bike is also the last year that came with the "Two Brush" starter motor. 1990 to 1993 had the "4 brush starter". Run the bike for a while, shut it off, and try to restart it. If the starter drags, you will need to address this issue once you have purchased it. I have seen these bikes get 300,000 miles with proper care, so at 65,000 miles I would have a good close look at the front fork seals, (thin, black oil ring above the lower aluminum fork tube) be sure to check BOTH tubes! Also steering head bearings will start to be an issue at this mileage point, check them closely. Check the coolant overflow bottle which is located under the "door" above the CB Radio on the upper right side of the fairing. If the bottle is empty, then you have a "weeper" coolant system. Have a close look at the "fish eye" glass in the front Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders, if the fluid is not clear like water, (cola colored) then this service you speak of that was done 2K ago, is BS! Since you can't see into the rear Master Cylinder, I would "draw" a sample of the brake fluid from the rear reservoir and check the color. (looking for clear color here) Remove the false tank cover and remove the fuse box lid, if any fuses are missing, or are "jumpered" with wire, then this is a major issue, but can be repaired. Remove the air box cover and check the air box for engine oil in the bottom of the box, and bugs and dirt in the air filter folds. Put the bike on the center stand and roll both tires, listening for dragging calipers and dry bearings. Sit down behind the rear of the bike, and hold on to the chrome side bag guard, and place your right foot on the rear tire. (bike in 1st gear helps) Push side ways on the tire firmly, you are looking for the tire and swing arm to move sideways, meaning the swing arm bushings and or bearings are shot!

If this bike has spent most of it's life in AZ., then it has seen some pretty high coolant temps. Look under the water pump, at the weep hole, (right side of bike, in front of and below the foot brake) for signs of anti-freeze staining or leakage. While you are there, look at the front of the water pump where the "Elbow" exits the water pump and turns left to the Thermostat Housing, MAKE SURE that the engine crash bar has not cut a gash in this plastic elbow! If there is a gash on the plastic elbow, then most likely, this bike has been down on the right side at some point. Check right side fairing corner for cracking.

With the bike on the center stand, start the bike and let it run until the electric fan comes on. If the temp gage gets close to the red area with no fan turn on, (fan should come on at 3/4 on temp gage+/- a bit) then this bike has been ridden HOT in stop and go traffic.

While on the right side of the bike, look below the water pump for the "oil level sight glass". With the bike not running, the oil level must be half way up the sight glass. If the oil level is too high and there is no oil level line, then don't return to the dealer that did the 2K service. If the sight glass is so "foggy" that you can't see the oil level at all, this is a sign that the oil changes have been neglected.

Everything mentioned here can be corrected. The point of this inspection is to see if the current owner is being honest with you about the condition of the bike. If everything checks out OK, with NO broken plastic, then this is a $3500.00 bike. If you can't see the oil level, it has at least one blued rotor, the water pump elbow has a gash in it, and the right side fairing has damage at the corner, and the coolant overflow bottle is dry, then this is an $800.00 bike, and will be a $2700.00 bike when you repair everything.

Because the owner wants to sell this motorcycle, he/she will say "anything" to make the sale. Print this sheet off, check everything mentioned, deduct for the issues found, and if he is still firm on the price once you have proved that the 2K service is BS. Then WALK AWAY! In my honest opinion, paying $800.00 for an 89'VR and putting $1700.00 into it to cherry it out is a "fun winter project"! Paying $3500.00 for the same bike and putting $1700.00 into it just to get it to stop and go properly is getting RIPPED OFF!

My thoughts, for what they are worth.

Again, welcome to the VR.ORG forum KIC, you've got some "homework" to do my friend.

Earl

 

This post was written about a different bike, but the checks would be the same for the bike you are looking at. Deduct for the items you find fault with, and as good as the price he is asking for would be even sweeter if you end up paying $800 to $900 for this same bike. YOU WILL be putting some money into this motorcycle to make it rideable.

If you have questions after the purchase, join the forum, and all of the members here will be happy to help you get your "new to you" scoot up and running properly.

Earl