Trailer weight

[sleepy2]

Just got back from weigh scale at recycle yard here and according to them my new to me trailer(Fibco from Quebec manufacturer) weighs 500lbs (was told only around 300lbs) but template on trailer says 400lbs.

Is this still not too much to take on camping trip to international? Seemed to pull with no problems from Guelph On.(65klm) to home OK but wondering about longer trips. Seems to me others have pulled around same weight with-out any problems ----Any opinions?????? Was really looking forward to NOT sleep so close to ground as in tenting.

[cecdoo]

Maybe they had their thumb on the scale:think:

 

Craig

[Midnight]

We have an Aluma MCT trailer that weighs 200 lbs empty according to the manufacturer. Once loaded I suspect we are towing around 350 lbs two up. I definitely know its back there. We have travelled some 100000 km with no issues. I suspect the bike would pull more BUT I am more concerned about being able to stop or make a quick maneuver. No close calls yet but I do my best to keep my distance and monitor those other folks around me.

Any chance the scale reading was incorrect for some reason? If the scale is right I suspect you would be towing around 650-700 lbs depending on how much gear you load up. Not sure how comfortable I would be with that. The other thing to watch out for is how much tongue weight you have as you don't want to overload the rear tire or jeopardize your control. Hopefully others will weigh in so to speak. Good luck and have a safe journey. JR

Edited July 9, 2015 by Midnight

[Flyinfool]

Was that 500lbs the empty trailer or fully loaded?

If that was before you add gear you may have a problem.

 

Check the max weight ratings for the hitch that you have on the bike.

 

The rules of thumb that I have always used are;

1. Tongue weight should be 10% of trailer weight.

2. Max tongue weight on a bike should be 40 lbs.*

3. Trailer gross weight not more than 50% of tow vehicle loaded weight.

 

These seem to be in conflict.

 

*The closer the ball is to the rear axle the more tongue weight you can carry.

The lower the ball, the less side force the trailer will have if it does sway.

 

If you have to little tongue weight, the trailer will sway.

The faster you go the more likely to get trailer sway.

You need to experiment to find out the limits of YOUR setup.

Exact numbers of what works for me or anyone else, may or may not work for you.

While Someone else's numbers may not be right for you, they may still be a good starting point.

 

 

While you can to some extent control your following distance, to help with your increased stopping distance. That does not prevent some jerk from pulling into that nice gap and then having to hit his brakes because he is to close to the care in front of him, or the one that stops at the stop sign and then pulls out right in front of you. At some point a panic stop will need to be made. Make sure you have tested your limits fully loaded.

My trailer is about 400lbs loaded, and I am not comfortable with the stopping distance. I have found all of the parts necessary to add electric brakes to my trailer.

 

You may be able to check your trailer weight with a bathroom scale. One wheel at a time, and a hunk of 2X lumber under the other wheel, then check tongue weight with the trailer tongue at the same angle it is at while hooked up to bike.

Edited July 10, 2015 by Flyinfool

[Midnight]

Great advice from "Flyinfool above. You are totally right about the cagers darting in and out. Fortunately we haven't been in a real jam yet.

I wish there were some brake system that could be put on these trailers that didn't add a pile of weight. A standard drum type system that is on most trailers is very heavy in itself. Not to mention the control unit you need. I would love to hear about any ideas for a system. I was at a bike show a couple of years ago and the Bushtec trailer rep was there. They had a camper system for a bike they were displaying. It weighed around 350 if I remember right. I mentioned to the rep that I wouldn't be comfy pulling something like that. Especially loaded. He indicated they were working on a braking system for their trailers. Haven't seen or heard of anything yet. JR

[Flyinfool]

The 7" drum brakes are not that terribly heavy. Since you are adding brakes the brakes can stop their own additional weight easily.

 

The controller that I plan to use will be mounted on the trailer tongue, with a wireless remote controller mounted on the bars. The trailer will have a standard 4 or 5 wire electrical hookup. I just have to make sure my brake light circuit can handle the amps of the brakes. Should be no problem since my trailer lighting is relay isolated. This way too, the trailer can still be attached to any bike with the same 4 or 5 wire connecter. Mine will be setup 4 wire just cuz thats what everything already is.

[XV1100SE]

...

The rules of thumb that I have always used are;

1. Tongue weight should be 10% of trailer weight.

2. Max tongue weight on a bike should be 40 lbs.*

3. Trailer gross weight not more than 50% of tow vehicle loaded weight.

 

...

 

Can I ask that you add one more thing...rear shock air pressure on the bike. Rider weight with and without passenger considerations.

 

On our trip to MD towing a "Time Out" trailer (base weight 325lbs according to mfr plus about 100 lbs for what we took)... I had the rear shock at 30 psi and the bike didn't feel good. The people I was with bumped it up to 50 psi and that made the difference.

[Zzyzx]

Flynfool is right about the ratio of trailer to bike weight restrictions and tongue weight limitations.

If the trailer weighs more than 400lbs empty you are already right near the max limits for safety.

 

Once you load anything into the trailer, and it doesn't take much to add another 150lbs , it is going to be too heavy for safely towing and it will be much more difficult when slowing and stopping.

 

Stopping is a big factor to always think about when towing. If you have to stop fast that extra 400 or 500lbs behind you will continue to push the bike and it easily takes 20 to 25% more stopping distance to stop when towing.

 

The rule of thumb of 10% tongue to overall trailer weight rule is right and it may not seem like the difference between 40 or 50lbs is a lot to worry about compared to when you have a rider behind you but you have to take into consideration the weight and length you are towing. Add a passenger along with a trailer and you have even more weight and distribution to consider.

 

Not having enough tongue weight is very dangerous! This can cause the trailer to start whipping around and can make you lose control.

 

The trailer has to be properly loaded and balanced and cannot be over loaded, the tongue weight ratio has to be right, and you have to change the way you ride when towing by allowing more space for stopping, cornering, turning into driveways, etc.

 

Like XV100SE also stated, air pressure in the shock will need to be adjusted to get a good ride but you also have to check and recheck the shock and your tire pressure daily and make sure to never let them get below MFG spec's.

 

I suggest taking the trailer to another certified scale to get a real picture of its true empty weight then go from there but whatever you decide to do please...Ride Safe!.

[Flyinfool]

Can I ask that you add one more thing...rear shock air pressure on the bike. Rider weight with and without passenger considerations.

 

On our trip to MD towing a "Time Out" trailer (base weight 325lbs according to mfr plus about 100 lbs for what we took)... I had the rear shock at 30 psi and the bike didn't feel good. The people I was with bumped it up to 50 psi and that made the difference.

 

While that is great info for a 2nd gen Venture the setup for my 1st gen are different. The rules of thumb that I posted were for all bikes towing regardless of make or model.

[sleepy2]

just got back from another scale and they were 40lbs heavier than previous scale so now I will have to think a little more. Might have end up taking old trailer and tent it but would really like to use new trailer. Will see.

[rbig1]

Can I ask that you add one more thing...rear shock air pressure on the bike. Rider weight with and without passenger considerations.

 

On our trip to MD towing a "Time Out" trailer (base weight 325lbs according to mfr plus about 100 lbs for what we took)... I had the rear shock at 30 psi and the bike didn't feel good. The people I was with bumped it up to 50 psi and that made the difference.

 

well when I pulled mine out there put 42psi in rear shock, driver 350lb, 22psi in tires on trailer. Followed two rockets over there never knew trailer was behind me. And that was the first time I ever pulled a trailer. Never weighed trailer but had it full.

[Great White]

Trailer brakes would be easy enough.

 

simple electric drums and and inertial controller would do it.

 

controller could be mounted on the trailer or, if you're "crafty" enough, put it on the bike and you can have access to the manual brake function. That's great for settling a trailered load down when it gets a little "bouncy".

 

[tufftom4]

I would like to chime in here When I got hit on my way home from Vogel I was pulling a trailer and I had a first gen mk2 with linked brakes DE LINK THEM when I stomped on the back brake before she hit me my front tire locked up because of the weight I think if they were delinked it would have been less painful, why they linked them is beyond me I know they said it was for inexperienced drivers but it cost me a lot.

[Prairiehammer]

I would like to chime in here When I got hit on my way home from Vogel I was pulling a trailer and I had a first gen mk2 with linked brakes DE LINK THEM when I stomped on the back brake before she hit me my front tire locked up because of the weight I think if they were delinked it would have been less painful, why they linked them is beyond me I know they said it was for inexperienced drivers but it cost me a lot.

 

The front wheel locked up on my 1990 when I attempted to avoid the car that abruptly swerved into my space back in 2013. I performed a countersteer to the left as I braked moderately. The front wheel locked and we did a violent low side to the left at 65 mph. The trailer pushed the rear to the right simultaneously.

I had 30 pounds tongue weight and was fully loaded and two up. I had the rear shock maxed out and the front on "high". The front end still seemed light. The trailer grossed at 325#.

The bike had never, ever locked the front wheel prior. On that ill fated New England Tour, I actually managed to lose front wheel traction twice. Once in the rain, while negotiating a 30 mph sweeper, I felt both the front and rear slide sideways simultaneously. The second time was the aforementioned evasive maneuver.

I think the trailer was the reason for both instances.

[Yammer Dan]

My experience with 2nd Gen brakes was sure interesting. I still haven't figured out what happened. The rear was sliding which doesn't scare me that much. Hang on and ride it out. Which I did very well as the skid marks show. What happened?? I don't know and can't remember. That from getting a thump on the head hard enough to cause bleeding on the brain again I guess. The bike according to Adrain stood up on the front wheel and threw me into the air above it. Did I at the last see that I was not going to stop and grab a handfull of front?? I don't know.