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Posted

have a beautiful 2005 RSMV. Only have put 200 out of 45xxx on her. now fuse or something is gone, No turn signal, horn, brake lights, speedometer. odometer readout, but she is running fine. I checked left side fuse for signals and what I think is b/u main fuse behind that. All seemed ok but still have not found the problem. Can anyone help?? Wanted to ride the next two days to out of town doctors.

Tried to load picture and failed?

 

Also no indicator lights work on dash.

Posted

The fuse for the lights is behind the left side panel. It is a 15 amp fuse. Try replacing it with new fuse, that one may be bad but hard to see. I don't know if the speedo is on the same circuit, but I now the light are for sure. Had that fuse blow while working on trailer lights last week.

Posted

Under the right leg fairing is, Cruise control, Carb Heat, Aux DC connector fuse (I think they mean the one under the seat) Aux Jack (fairing) audio system.

Under the left side cover is, Top left back up fuse (odometer and clock) Rad Fan, Headlight, Signals, Ignition

PG 8-33 owners manual

Posted

Well I went back and rechecked the fuses, you were right the signal fuse was shot..looked different this time.All is well. I'm gonna love this bike.Still have Roadstar Silverado 2000, but I may like this better. mmmmmm power. Can you point me to a thread where operating mph in each gear is discussed. Thanks for the help.

Posted

Watch the main fuse for corrosion. Down where its at I guess it collects a lot of crap and moisture. Then it corrodes the fuse. Sometimes they will look OK but resistance gets high.

Posted
Well I went back and rechecked the fuses, you were right the signal fuse was shot..looked different this time.All is well. I'm gonna love this bike.Still have Roadstar Silverado 2000, but I may like this better. mmmmmm power. Can you point me to a thread where operating mph in each gear is discussed. Thanks for the help.

 

Glad you got it fixed.

As for speeds in gears, Hold the throttle wide open and don't shift till you feel the rev limiter. Thats the power band. You will not hurt the engine doing this, but you will hurt the feelings of most Harleys that are watching you dissappear........

Posted

When does the rev limiter cut in-rpm's. What speeds would I be at when shifting at limit in different gears?Where are those power bands, and do I get better mileage trying to operate within them??

Posted

I concur with Bob. I shift when I feel the revs are getting up there. It's a "feeling". I try for the same revs as the `1st Gen I have. Usually that equates to around 4K.

I do stay in 4th for anything under 60mph. She is comfortable at that range and gets better mpg's than if I shifted to 5th at that speed. 5th truly is an overdrive...as is 4th!

 

BUT...the only real way for you to figure this out for yourself is to do what Flyin said...wind it out in gear and pay attention to engine vibrations and sounds as you go. When you hit the limiter...shift. You'll know when...it's like the bike throws out an anchor! Do it a few times to get the feel of your bike. Be advised...hitting the rev limiter in 4th will put you way over any speed limit in the US....so be warned. Heck...I can break the freeway speed limit down here (75) in 3rd! I would hit the limiter in only first three gears just to keep out of jail....!!

 

BTW...when the higher rpms get excessive...that's a good indication it's time to balance the carbs. Normally, you can hardly feel the engine running these V4's are that smooth...

 

Enjoy!

david

Posted

True dat. I have no idea how fast you would be going if you hit the limiters in 4th gear. I have had mine 80+ in 4th a few times, and not hitting the limit.

 

As with you, generally in 4th unless I will be cruising over 65 or so, and no hills. Many bike rides that I ride in here in Alabama on the curvy, hilly roads, I am in 3rd for most of the ride. I do travel interstate every day going to/from work, and run in 5th then, and she will set up on 80 to 85 mph, purring like a kitten.

Posted

As for speeds in gears, Hold the throttle wide open and don't shift till you feel the rev limiter. Thats the power band. You will not hurt the engine doing this, but you will hurt the feelings of most Harleys that are watching you dissappear........

 

He's got a Roadstar too, I'm guessing he's already hurt some HD feelings, I know I did when I had mine. :cool10:

Posted

Well, that was high hopes. My fuse blowing is back. The swich fuse will blow whenever I pull on the front brake or push on the rear brake pedal' After trying to clear my mind and studying the simplified electric plan...it seems to me that my problem might be a short in the yellow wire to the rear brake. Am I making any sense. This runs from the brake switch relay to the rear light/ brake light. Or I know nothing about relays, could this be shorted? I think the relay is in the left front cowling?? Can I test this by pulling the yellow wire or am I totally wet. any help appreciated. Also is opening that wire at the relay likely to stop fuse blowing and let everything except the brake light work.

Posted

the very first thing to do is eliminate any extra added brake lights that were added aftermarket.

then check results.

mind you I am not saying to get rid of them, lord knows we need extra lites! but failures in the electrical system of this bike are normaly created by additions.

Posted (edited)

You are correct, the yellow line is the brake line. Blue is running lights. Look behind the licence plate holders, there are all of the wires there for turn, brake, and running lights...

 

While you are in there remove the bulb for the brake light and see if it still blows fuses. If you ohm the yellow line, with bulbs in you will see a low value ohms but not a direct (zero ohms) short. With the bulb removed the ohms should be very high, like infinity.

 

The most obvious place to look for a short is the brake light socket area...

Edited by bongobobny
Posted (edited)

BUMP

 

Well, that was high hopes. My fuse blowing is back. The swich fuse will blow whenever I pull on the front brake or push on the rear brake pedal' After trying to clear my mind and studying the simplified electric plan...it seems to me that my problem might be a short in the yellow wire to the rear brake. Am I making any sense. This runs from the brake switch relay to the rear light/ brake light. Or I know nothing about relays, could this be shorted? I think the relay is in the left front cowling?? Can I test this by pulling the yellow wire or am I totally wet. any help appreciated. Also is opening that wire at the relay likely to stop fuse blowing and let everything except the brake light work.

Edited by STRONGSLTN
to see better
Posted

more than happy to help ya out pal, but not knowing if you did or did not rule out previous suggestions will stall your " bumps"

Posted

I didn't know where the brake relay switch was to run the check? lower

left cowling or where? Whatever, I dropped it off at the dealer just now. Thanks for trying to help.

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