26H/41R "swappable"?

[Great White]

83-85 is single wire connection, 86-93 is two wire connection to fan relay.

 

Not thermostat itself, but a sensor in coolant junction block, bad description on my part.

 

 

 

Gary

 

Ah, no worries. I can buy that one new if needed.

 

Cheers

[Flyinfool]

Got a pic of one?

 

I haven't had one apart yet myself, but from the available pics on the net all I've seen is mostly through mount caps, diodes, resistors and transistors.

 

There does look to be two 40 pin "cards", but they look to pretty much just hold surface mount resistors and such.

 

Boards that sensitive to back voltage o would think should have " protection" diodes (like a 1N4003) . They blow if back voltage is induced, protecting components upstream. Pretty common in things like cb radios. Don't ask me how I know that.....

 

Those 40 pin cards contain an EPROM

 

A set of eight 1N400x is what we use to replace the stock diodes that will corrode and fall apart over time. they block the back EMF every time a plug fires. The stock ones are a ceramic ball that is half blue half white. Once they corrode enough to fall apart the back EMF hits the EPROM and fries it. The diodes do not fail electrically, they fail mechanically from corrosion. Many people have opened up the TCI and found liquid water in there. There are 2 holes in the case to let the water in, but it has a hard time finding its way back out.

Edited July 16, 2015 by Flyinfool

[Great White]

Those 40 pin cards contain an EPROM

 

A set of eight 1N400x is what we use to replace the stock diodes that will corrode and fall apart over time. they block the back EMF every time a plug fires. The stock ones are a ceramic ball that is half blue half white. Once they corrode enough to fall apart the back EMF hits the EPROM and fries it. The diodes do not fail electrically, they fail mechanically from corrosion. Many people have opened up the TCI and found liquid water in there. There are 2 holes in the case to let the water in, but it has a hard time finding its way back out.

I'll have a closer look this winter because all I can see on internet pics on those cards is surface mount caps and resistors.

 

Could just be lower res pics I'm looking at or the EPROM might be on the underside of the card. If it's on the underside, it must be surface mount as I don't see any through mounting to indicate its position.

 

EPROM is easy peasy. Used to work with that stuff when I was tuning obdI. I'll just have to dig out some hardware and software.

 

Well, some dusty corners of me brain too!

 

Edited July 16, 2015 by Great White

[dna9656]

Ther is truth in your statements, but I also rebuild electronics as one of my hobbies sooo....

 

Your fortunate that you have the skills to do Solid State. I tried tube stuff (Hammond Organs) and ended up buying another amp. I mean what's so hard about replacing ALL the resistors and caps? Well you can't walk away from it and come back 3 weeks later or at least I can't. I don't know programming or have the know how to get a copy of the software from a chip. After spending about $350.00 on the Ignitec, Coil Over Plug coils, and Misc. items I have no worries.

I use my bike daily to go to work so I can't have the bike down very long so the Ignitec was the best answer for me.

My soldering skills aren't what they used to be...I can't get 4 separate CLASS (air suspension controller) units to work (fixing busted solder joints) and I can't get 2 small wires soldered to the CB of my garage door opener to install a remote switch mounted on the handle bars. I'm afraid of screwing up the mod that turns off the warning lights that appear after installing LED tail,blinker and running lights.

I know nobody that can do this kin of work. I know guys at work that are supposed to know how but they never get the idea of what needs to be done regardless of explanation. So I gave that stuff up. I converted the CLASS to manual and wrote of the rest as beyond my abilities.