chag67 Posted June 28, 2015 #1 Posted June 28, 2015 My 2007 RSV wouldn't start this morning. It turns over. With the choke out, it starts but rather sluggish. If I try and give it any throttle, it immediately stalls. I'm thinking bad gas. I was only ¼ gallon into a new tank and it has sat for 3 days since fillip. Battery is fine. Any thoughts? Am I on the right track? I was thinking of draining the tank and refilling with better gas.
Kirby Posted June 28, 2015 #2 Posted June 28, 2015 Try draining the carb float bowls first to see if you have water in your gas. Then you may have to drain the tank. If no water or other contaminants in the float bowls, you may have to pull carbs and clean out the main jets. Good luck!
Bert2006 Posted June 28, 2015 #4 Posted June 28, 2015 Maybe fuel pump not working. Agree, same thing mine did when pump went last year. Remove you left side cover under the seat and then gently tap the pump with ignition on. If it starts clicking then points are gone and will need replacing or you need to replace pump. If it is clicking but pump gets overly hot then its gone. Search on the site using fuel pump as key words and you will get lots of info.
chag67 Posted June 28, 2015 Author #5 Posted June 28, 2015 I'm pretty sure it's the pump now. It's pretty hot. I searched the site and found a thread about using a fuel pump for an airplane. I would rather use the original Yamaha. I'm not that mechanically inclined. How difficult is it? I've tried searching the Internet on how to but it looks pretty simple. I've changed my plugs before so I'm not a complete idiot. And what does OEM stand for?
chag67 Posted June 28, 2015 Author #7 Posted June 28, 2015 I just found the thread by Peter Behm. It has pictures. Woohoo. It looks really easy. Gonna buy the fuel pump this week and probably a fuel filter too.
Bert2006 Posted June 29, 2015 #8 Posted June 29, 2015 Make sure you get an OEM pump or one that has a check valve so that fuel does not get into the cylinders if the system stays pressurized. That can lead to hydro lock and destroy the engine. I beleive that the OEM pump simply allows the pressurized fuel to flow back as opposed to potentially seeping past the carbs and into the cylinders. Also, keep the old pump if its bad points and replace them and keep it as a backup as these tend to fail often. Good idea to change the fuel filter as it is easy to get to with pump removed. I will replace mine every 2 years or 20,000 km from now on
MikeWa Posted June 29, 2015 #9 Posted June 29, 2015 Last time that happened to me it was because I failed to turn the petcock on. Hey it happens. I'm old so it's ok. Mike
XV1100SE Posted June 29, 2015 #10 Posted June 29, 2015 By any chance...when was the last time you changed the fuel filter?
chag67 Posted June 29, 2015 Author #11 Posted June 29, 2015 I haven't. I'm gonna change the fuel pump and filter together.
Raider58 Posted June 29, 2015 #12 Posted June 29, 2015 I just replied to another post regarding a fuel pump. Really don't waste your time fixing the old ones, join the twenty first century and Install an electronic fuel pump. Mine crapped out on me last year and I bought a Facet fuel pump from Aircraft Spruce for $50 bucks you have to buy fittings they will fit application. Here are the specs. These pumps measure less than 3" in any direction and weigh only 18 oz. Fuel is supplied as soon as the ignition is turned on so the engine will start faster at colder temps. Built-in pressure relief prevents flooding and assures fast re-starts on hottest days. The all-steel plated case is water tight. Mounts with two bolts. For best results, mount the pump close to the fuel tank and below the liquid level. The tank is self-priming to 12" to 36" Lift min dry. Standard 12 V models require only 1 amp at max. delivery. Many models are available, but these are the ones recommended by Rutan Aircraft Factory, Stoddard Hamilton and many other aircraft designers. All of the pumps shown feature the all nylon valve and plunger as specified by Rutan Aircraft in the Canard Pusher newsletter. Fuel Compatibility: All models of the Facet® CUBE® Fuel Pumps are compatible with gasoline, diesel, biodiesel, blended alcohol fuels and fuel additives. Solid State Reliability: Proven on thousands of original equipment applications. No electrical contacts. No bearings or diaphragms to wear out or fatigue. Lasts four to five times longer than many other electric fuel pumps. Easy to Install: Two-bolt installation plus the small size makes installation easy. For best results, mount the pump close to the fluid or fuel tank and below the liquid level. Eliminates Vapor Lock: When properly installed on most vehicles a constant, smooth, dependable supply of fuel under pressure is assured in the hottest weather or in high altitudes. I'm telling you there isn't a better fuel pump out there that fits out application. Mine has worked great for over a year now.
Flyinfool Posted July 1, 2015 #15 Posted July 1, 2015 The Yamaha dealership wants $333. WOW Does that include lube oil filter carb rebuild and new tires mounted and balanced?
Midnight Posted July 1, 2015 #17 Posted July 1, 2015 Couple of places to try, I have dealt with both of them and things worked out O/K. Good luck. JR http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/50045f5bf8700209bc794dd2/fuel-tank http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/50045f5bf8700209bc794dd2/fuel-tank
Flyinfool Posted July 1, 2015 #18 Posted July 1, 2015 Probably cant get a new OEM one for much less. But the Mr Gasket is a LOT less. Or you can get a good used OEM and slap new contacts in it and be good to go.
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