rtbwiz Posted June 25, 2015 #1 Posted June 25, 2015 Got a 1983 Venture and no spark to my rear 2 cylinders. my Headlight hi and lo beam switch does nothing but the light is on and the bulb is good and my computer is giving me low fuel and low oil I know better, and other lights lit up on the computer too that I know aren't valid.....I just wanna ride my bike...
dingy Posted June 25, 2015 #2 Posted June 25, 2015 Link below to replacement TCI might help firing problem. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=396&title=ignitech-ignition-control-module-for-1983-1993-venture-27s&cat=20 Gary
Flyinfool Posted June 25, 2015 #3 Posted June 25, 2015 I would start by checking all of the power and ground connections. Whenever you have multiple things malfunctioning that are on different circuits it is almost always a bad ground somewhere. Ground and main power are the only common things to all of those circuits.
dna9656 Posted June 25, 2015 #4 Posted June 25, 2015 (edited) Flyin' is right. Check all those plugs! Clean them up and get some die-electric grease (the stuff you see on the terminals of automotive lights bulbs) and fill the connectors with it by pressing (with your finger) it into the connector housing so it encapsulates the brass terminals in the housing. This way they are cut off from oxygen and can't oxidize. Don't buy it in those little envelopes you see at the auto parts counter, get a TUBE of it. To get the terminal out of the housing is a little tricky. There is (should be) a little tab, tang, (or barb) on the terminal that catches on part of the terminal housing. It locks the terminal in place so it can't back out ("back" being towards the wire the terminal is connected to); the way the housing is made prevents the terminal from coming out in a forward direction. If you look at the housing "front side" there will be a rectangle for each terminal, there will be a SMALLER rectangle on one LONG side of the rectangle. This is where the little tang, tab, or barb is located. It's actually a section of the terminal that's been cut and bent OUT from the main body of the terminal to catch on a groove molded into the housing. I use a hack saw blade I narrow on my grinder until I have a section of blade that will fit into this smaller rectangle. The tool you create has to be a long enough to pass through most of the housing's length but NOT all the way, you'll see why as you go along. Push the tool into the smaller rectangle and it should go past the aforementioned tang/tab/barb so the barb can't catch on the groove in there and a gentle tug on the wire connected to the terminal you're working on will pull it out. It make take several tries, it may not. After cleaning make sure the barb is bent OUT away from the terminal's body just a LITTLE BIT, you can do this by holding the terminal with some needle nose pliers and applying the edge of the hack saw tool you made, the barb's being bent out a little ways will ensure you'll feel/hear the barb snap into place when you re-insert the terminal into the housing. Carefully inspect the plastic housing so you will better understand what you're doing and all this will make a lot more sense. PS: make sure the barb will engage the groove in the terminal, if the wire pulls out too easily you need to flip it over, if it's aligned properly and still comes out of the block the barb isn't bend out far enough to catch and you'll have to bend it out a little more. Edited June 26, 2015 by dna9656
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