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Posted

I have a new to me 06 RSV. I have been riding it since late April early May. I have been noticing now that the warmer weather is here that I still need to pull the choke out just a hair for it to idle properly until it warms up. I can ride for hours, then if it sits for a few hours, I still need to choke it just a hair for a few minutes. I have ran Seafoam thru the tank a couple times the past month. I have not checked the plugs yet. Could this be a Spark Plug issue? Is this normal for these bikes? I previously owned a 98 Vulcan Classic and I never had to do this once the warmer weather came.

Thank you for any and all help.

Adam

Posted

I have the same year and need to use choke on cold starts all the time. Once running though, do not need it for the rest of the ride when stopping for gas or other supplies. No worries!:Laugh:

Posted

the carbs are set very lean from factory to meet the epa regulations in some states. there is nothing wrong with your bike, it just tells us that nobody has made any modifications to your carbs.

Posted

I have 3 RSV's and once they are started in the AM they are good for the day even after sitting for a couple of hours....no choke. However each one has it little quirks... or personality. When setting a choke on one of my 1stGens they are all over the place with different 'choke tricks'.... still personalities... I wouldn't worry about your RSV, she's just a little cold blooded...

Posted

My 06 was the same when I had it and this 00 I have now WAS like that until I had enough and changed the pilot jets from the stock #15 to #17 .5. What a difference, not cold blooded and starts much better, plus much, much better throttle response. You can turn open the mixture screws and it will improve some but the next size pilot jets really made a huge difference on my bike.

Posted

Mine (2009)was cold blooded like the rest when it was new, but several years ago while at MD at Freebird's, V7Goose adjusted the carbs and it hasn't needed choking anymore unless the temperature drops into the 50's. Sometimes folks try to make these bikes idle too low (700-800 rpms) when they are suppose to idle around 1000 rpms. Some want the bike to lope like a Harley and it just wasn't designed to do that.

Posted

In my opinion, the problem you describe is NOT normal - but that could simply be a difference in how you chose to word it vs. what I would see if I could test the bike.

 

Your pilot jets are probably partially clogged. Test this by first setting idle at 1000 RPM, then slowly turning each pilot screw in to see if RPM drops. No speed drop means no fuel through pilot for that carb. If the speed falls off, then gently seat the screw and back out until RPM quits increasing. If you do not have a tach, try just setting the screws to 4 turns out - good starting point. Do each carb in turn, and if any of them do not show a reduction in RPM when you trun them in, you have a problem with either the carb or ignition.

 

Goose

Posted

Awesome! Thanks so much everyone. I rode 250 miles yesterday for Laconia Bike week and I used a little choke first thing in the morning, then I didn't need it anymore. That's pretty typical. It was always just that first start up. But the night temps here are still dropping to the 50's

Posted
In my opinion, the problem you describe is NOT normal - but that could simply be a difference in how you chose to word it vs. what I would see if I could test the bike.

 

Your pilot jets are probably partially clogged. Test this by first setting idle at 1000 RPM, then slowly turning each pilot screw in to see if RPM drops. No speed drop means no fuel through pilot for that carb. If the speed falls off, then gently seat the screw and back out until RPM quits increasing. If you do not have a tach, try just setting the screws to 4 turns out - good starting point. Do each carb in turn, and if any of them do not show a reduction in RPM when you trun them in, you have a problem with either the carb or ignition.

 

Goose

 

How do you get to the pilot screw? Are these not factory sealed? Checked the manual and no pilot screw is shown?!

Posted
How do you get to the pilot screw? Are these not factory sealed? Checked the manual and no pilot screw is shown?!

 

They are covered by brass cones - easy to pop the covers off with a long common screwdriver - just place the screwdriver at the base of the cone and twist a bit. For this method to work well, the screwdriver bit should be in good shape with flat end and sharp edges - a worn one doesn't grab into the brass.

Goose

Posted

Thanks ! I shall definitely pop those next time I pull the carbs. I have had problems with clogged pilot jets twice in the last year, I think it's a combination of lack of use and ethanol . I agree with you that the OP probably has a plugged jet and nothing but physically cleaning it will fix the problem.

Posted

If jets are only partially plugged so that they still let a bit of fuel through, then Seafoam will do a very good job of cleaning them in a tank or two of gas. But if no gas is able to get through the jet at all, then nothing will clean it short of removing the jet and soaking it in a bit of carb cleaner. This is because the jets in a carb do not sit submerged in gas, so the only time they can get cleaned is when the engine is running and fuel is being pulled through them.

Goose

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