Engine turning over too slow to start?

[Squeeze]

Three Wires are the Stator. The 5 Wire Connector is the one you're looking for. But don't ask me about which Colours you need to check. I have nothing here to look up the Wireing Diagram or the Troubleshooting in the Shop Manual. Maybe later, when i'm home, or another Guy has the Information at Hand right now.

 

The Setting is inside the Ohm Ranges, greek Omega, or the inside lower middle to lower left Scales on your Device. 200 Ohm is the Range you may need. If the Value exceeds your Ranges try to go on turn to left to 2K Ohm. One Wire into the 'Com' Port and the other into the Port above(V, Ohm,mA).

 

btw ... you did check the Fuses for outgoing Voltage ? The Fuse Panels tend to go south by Age, even when Fuse itself appears to check fine, there is no Voltage on the Outport.

[woz111]

I've tried the spark with the side stand up and down, no spark. I've also tried the tester on the 5 wires that come from the left crank case, only one wire has any output that registers on my tester? I would have thought that it should show something? the crank sensor should give some pulse out that would show when turning the engine over? Do you think the crank sensor's gone?

[GeorgeS]

Usually the problem at this plug, is simply its dirty or corroded, and thus some of the wires might have a High Resistance Connection, Thru the plug.

 

Just open it, and clean with Alcohol, or Electrical Connector cleaner ( Radio Shack has some ) Blow out with compressed air.

 

All five of these wires run, From, the pick Up Coils, and go to the 6 Pin Plug of the TCI.

 

Also, With Bike on center stand, side stand UP, Shift in Neutral, Run Stop in Run, and Ignition ON. Pull the 8 Pin plug from the TCI, and make sure there is 12 Volts, DC on ALL 4 of the Center Pins ( two center of the top row, and two of the lower row )

 

IF not, check the " 15 Amp " Ing fuse for 12 volts on both sides.

 

Read resistance across the fuse, make contact where the wires are soldered onto the fuse holders. You might have a bad fuse holder, this is a common problem.

 

See page 7-25 for wireing circuit, for 12 volts to each of the 4 Ing coils.

 

Also, see where 12v on the R/Y wire comes from the Run-Stop SW to the TCI.

 

Also, see page 7-11 for a Block Diagram of all the Circuits that make up the Starting Circuit. Read all the Text on page 7-11 . There is a lot involved.

 

 

Another check to do:

 

SEE: page 7-25 wireing diagram.

 

--- Pull the 8 pin plug from TCI

---- Remove the Pos Cable from the Battery

--- Now take 4 resistance readings --- From --

the loose end of Bat Cable, ----too, ---- each of the following on the

8 pin plug. the " O ", " Gy " , "Y " and " W " wires

 

The correct amount of resistance you should read on each of these 4 wires to the loose end of Bat cable ( With Ignition SW in the ON Pos ) Should be 3.8 to about 4.5 ohms.

 

This amount of resistance is the DC resistance of the Primary Winding of each of the Ing Coils.

 

Any extra ( higher ) is bad, this higher resistance will lower the 12 volts avialable to the Ing Coil. Causing Low Spark voltage to the plugs.

 

If you find extra resistance, use CRC Brand 2-26 electrical contact cleaner on the following parts, and blow out with compressed air. The Ing Switch, the

" Run Stop" Switch, Also, see page 8-41 and see that there are Plugs enroute to the Ignition SW, and the Run Stop Sw. Be sure to find these, and clean with 2-26 also.

[woz111]

I followed Mike's advice and took pin D out of the 6 pin connector on the TCI box and lo and behold, it's now sparking. I've not started her up yet as the battery's gone flat after two days of spinning her over. As soon as it's fully charged I'll try and start her, fingers crossed she'll fire up, choke on fully and full throttle? She's not been started for a few years.

[Gearhead]

So? Did it run?

 

Jeremy

[woz111]

Hi Jeremy.

Unfortunately not yet, I'm still waiting for the boost sensor to arrive

, I've tried starting it a few times and it does misfire and cough, but that's it. I'm assured that by fitting the boost(pressure)sensor it should then fire, as the TCI unit needs this sensor, it gets a voltage reeding from it. As soon as I get the sensor I'll let you know mate, thanks for asking.