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Posted (edited)

Ive only owned the bike for about 3 weeks.You could tell it was ridden, but probably not properly maintained.The kid I got it from was riding it on tires so bald its a wonder they didnt blow out.It handled like a brick when I rode it home.I replaced tires immediately.According to my clymers my bike crreping, wanting to move forward when stopped with the clutch lever is pulled in is called creeping.It says most likely warped clutch plates.I had a hard time gettinghome today.I could only get into 4th and 5th with some hard pushing on the shifter.And downshifting all the way to firs was hard to do.I got home, found the master cylinder almost dry.With no history of the bike I changed the oil and filter.It did much better after this.Still some pretty difficult shifts at certain speeds,nothing constant.I have a friend that could help me replace the clutch, but if i have to remove the engine and replace some bearings or shafts or gears on the transmission no way can I do that.It doesnt slip.I can get up to 100 mph and it never revs up and not accelerate.Input appreciated.It has 87,000 miles on it.

 

I dont know how to go up and fix my title on this thread.Replace,not ace.

Edited by cruiserlover
Posted

Most likely you have some air in the clutch hydraulics. First bleed the clutch system and make sure all the old brake fluid is out. You might find that the end of the master cylinder will retain some air. To get this out, partially fill the reservoir with brake fluid, turn the handle bars all the way to the right so that the reservoir is the top-most part of the system. Then as you tap the connector at the end of the reservoir, slightly, lightly work the handle. No need to move it all the way, just enough for bubbles to come up. Make sure you cover the bike below to catch any drips, brake fluid does a number on paint.

Posted

Yea if the fluid for the brakes and clutch look like coke colored it needs changed all the way around. These bikes use DOT 4 spec fluid also so be careful what you get. Speed bleeders are a good investment if you plan on keeping the bike. Makes the job a hole lot simpler.

Posted

yep its coke colored.I will drain and fill.I know it can take forever to get air out though.I dread it.Yes, I do intend keeping the bike.Good source for one of those bleeders?

Posted

For speed bleeders the thread is 8mm x 1.25. You should find them at most auto parts stores.

 

The clutch replacement is fairly easy and no the motor does not have to be removed. There is an excellent write up in the library here on site...

Posted

My clymers shows removing the very large nut, then the basket,etc.Why cant you just remove the nut, stack on the new plates, then put the nut back on.There is a plunger, steel ball, a metal spring that one end goes into a hole,etc.Is all that necessary? I know how to immobilize the basket to get the nut off.

Posted (edited)
My clymers shows removing the very large nut, then the basket,etc.Why cant you just remove the nut, stack on the new plates, then put the nut back on.There is a plunger, steel ball, a metal spring that one end goes into a hole,etc.Is all that necessary? I know how to immobilize the basket to get the nut off.

 

You do not have to remove the nut or the clutch basket to change out the friction plates. Remove the six bolts that hold the spring against the pressure plate, remove the pressure plate and slide the friction and steels out from within the basket. Note the orientation of the plates in relation to the dots or notches on the basket.

Did you read the write up here on the site in the Tech Section, as Bongo suggested? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?10518-Clutch-Upgrade

Edited by Prairiehammer
Posted

I dont know how to go up and fix my title on this thread.Replace,not ace.

 

Ckick the edit button on the first post and go to the advance section, that should give you the option to edit the title.

Posted

make sure and clean out the reservoir of all the crud. I just hooked a hose up had glass jar with fluid in it. run fluid through till it comes out clean then bleed it. don't be surprised when friction spot moves on lever. hope the piston isn't sticking

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