Guest Dareman Posted March 30, 2008 #1 Posted March 30, 2008 Well I did it. I bought my 2006 RSMV in December. It turned 8,000 miles this week so I performed my first "Do it yourself" maintenance for the 8,000 mile service. 1. Oil Change 2. Oil Filter Change 3. Inspected hoses 4. Inspected Brakes 5. Changed out Spark Plugs (Anything I need to do after changing plugs?) The plugs were a bear to change out. I had to take the seat off, loosen the Gas Tank take of the "dressing on the cylinders so I could access the fron plugs. Is there anything else I need to do. I rather enjoyed doing this myself and saved almost $200.00 in labor costs had the dealership where I bought the bike would have charged me for labor alone Al Tomlinson Bisbee, AZ
flb_78 Posted March 30, 2008 #2 Posted March 30, 2008 good job, sounds like you got everything. Now here's the great part, the 200 bux you just saved on labor is now to be spent on the bike buying goodies!!!
Freebird Posted March 30, 2008 #4 Posted March 30, 2008 The only thing that I see missing is a carb sync. If it's never been done, it would be a good idea to check them.
Midrsv Posted March 30, 2008 #5 Posted March 30, 2008 How about changing the rear differential oil? DT
Guest Dareman Posted March 30, 2008 #6 Posted March 30, 2008 I was thinking the same thing......Slight problem. I do not have a carb sync kit. Any suggestions?
Freebird Posted March 30, 2008 #7 Posted March 30, 2008 Yep...show up at my house for maintenance day and we'll "git r done". OK...I realize that it may be a bit far for you. I'll bet there is a member somewhere close to you that has a Carbtune or mercury set though. If not, you should just buy one. It will pay for itself the first or second time you use it.
Guest Dareman Posted March 30, 2008 #8 Posted March 30, 2008 Bisbee is located in the far Southeastern Corner of AZ. I am right on the border with Old Mexico. I can see the border from my front porch. Major city (population over 50,000) is Tucson, AZ, about 100 miles away.
hig4s Posted March 30, 2008 #9 Posted March 30, 2008 How about changing the rear differential oil? DT +1, first couple times are real important..
Guest Dareman Posted March 30, 2008 #10 Posted March 30, 2008 OK Guy and Girls........ You convinced me. I searched this wonderful forum, found the Carbtune Website and just ordered one from the U.K. I could not find one here in the U.S. I found Freebird's posting on how to do a carb sync. Looks simple enough that even a Caveman can do it. (my apologies to all you Cavemen out there.) We shall see what we shall see.
Vance Posted March 31, 2008 #11 Posted March 31, 2008 I printed out Freebirds' pictures and instructions, and put them with my shop manual. Be advised that the shop manual has some of the illustrations wrong. Using Freebird's directions will help you get the job done.
Steve S Posted March 31, 2008 #12 Posted March 31, 2008 I did my first carb sinc according to the service manual. Boy did I screw up a good running bike. After that I went to the tech section and printed off Freebird's directions. After resyncing (is that a word?) using them my bike would scream. Of course I would too if I had 240 pounds on my back and someone twisted my tail. Thanks Don:thumbsup2: Now I need to go to NC and get a Colortune. Ride Safe
AZSpyder Posted March 31, 2008 #13 Posted March 31, 2008 Al Here close by Tucson I did my 8000 service this weekend too. Changing the plugs bugged me, they looked perfect! Haven't brought myself to toss the old ones out yet. Another thing is getting the bike in the air and checking wheel and steering bearings. My kickstand needed lube, the controls levers would have except I did that 1000 miles ago when the clutch lever started clicking. The rear gear oil change isn't scheduled for the 8000 but check the level. I still need to pull the covers over the trunk and side bag latches and put some white grease on the contact points, the trunk is sometimes hard to open and won't fix itself (I have been waiting). This is also a good time to go around checking that all the bolts are tight. I changed my tires at 7000 mile after a run in with a nail and switched both to Avons. I found the front pinch bolt was loose. I had never checked that one before. Maybe the dealer or factory left it a bit loose but I'm keeping an eye on that one. Jerry
Stratcat Posted March 31, 2008 #14 Posted March 31, 2008 Yep...show up at my house for maintenance day and we'll "git r done". OK...I realize that it may be a bit far for you. I'll bet there is a member somewhere close to you that has a Carbtune or mercury set though. If not, you should just buy one. It will pay for itself the first or second time you use it. I plan on it !!
hig4s Posted March 31, 2008 #15 Posted March 31, 2008 Al Here close by Tucson I did my 8000 service this weekend too. Changing the plugs bugged me, they looked perfect! Haven't brought myself to toss the old ones out yet. Another thing is getting the bike in the air and checking wheel and steering bearings. My kickstand needed lube, the controls levers would have except I did that 1000 miles ago when the clutch lever started clicking. The rear gear oil change isn't scheduled for the 8000 but check the level. I still need to pull the covers over the trunk and side bag latches and put some white grease on the contact points, the trunk is sometimes hard to open and won't fix itself (I have been waiting). This is also a good time to go around checking that all the bolts are tight. I changed my tires at 7000 mile after a run in with a nail and switched both to Avons. I found the front pinch bolt was loose. I had never checked that one before. Maybe the dealer or factory left it a bit loose but I'm keeping an eye on that one. Jerry I realize they say change the rear end at 600 then check it until 16k, but it is only 1/5 of a quart and it is what puts all the power to the rear wheel. Mine had a fair amount of metal shaving on the magnet at 600, I changed it again at 8k and there were a few then too. When ever I change engine oil I take the time to change rear gear oil too. (I use synthetic and do extended engine oil changes.)
eagleeye Posted March 31, 2008 #16 Posted March 31, 2008 As you can tell, I haven't read the manual-- Plug change at 8,000mi?-----------That's rediculous. Can't imagine doing that. Steve
gibvel Posted March 31, 2008 #17 Posted March 31, 2008 OK Guy and Girls........ You convinced me. I searched this wonderful forum, found the Carbtune Website and just ordered one from the U.K. I could not find one here in the U.S. I found Freebird's posting on how to do a carb sync. Looks simple enough that even a Caveman can do it. (my apologies to all you Cavemen out there.) We shall see what we shall see. You might want to go to the hardware store and pick up about the longest Philips head screwdriver they have. You'll need it to get the sync. screw for #1. May want to take a tape measure and measure the distance to the screw from the right side of the bike so you can get the right size the first time. I got the wrong size the first time because I didn't think it was as far across as it is.
Eck Posted March 31, 2008 #18 Posted March 31, 2008 Recomend the following: Lube your clutch and throttle cables Change your gear lube Greasing drive shaft and rear hub splines Checking the bolts on the side of the rear fender that holds the chrome frame covers and center trunk rack because they tend to come loose and fall out. Lube all moving parts of your shifter Lube all moving parts of your brake peddle Lube all moving parts of your kickstand. Check your steering bearing loosness and adjust if nessisary Check the center trunk lid catch rod on the left side... make sure the screws didnt fall out yet.. they too come loose..and while your in there make sure the center trunk mounting screws are tight..do not over tighten them though.. Take off your right rear side bag and pop off the plastic cover on your brake caliper and vissually check the inside pad for wear...it wears out really fast compared to the outer pad. If its worn, you can swap them around..take the outer one and put it on the inside and the inside one on the outside,,to get more life out of them.. Check the mounting screws and nuts that hold the chrome pieces on the aft ends of your front and rear fenders for they come loose and fall out. Check the bottom side of your rear shock for oil seeping out from around the rubber boot. Using your fingernail pull up on the rubber boot just a little bit, and make sure oil doesnt come out. If it does, it's leaking and is under warrenty. This should keep you busy for a while......
flb_78 Posted March 31, 2008 #19 Posted March 31, 2008 Recomend the following:Lube your clutch and throttle cables I tried lubing my clutch cable, had to remove it to do so. It seems like there was plenty of oil in there to begin with, but I added some more. Removed the line off the slave cylinder to let the lube run all the way through. It just seems like it's such a pain in the butt to lube this line, it's takes forever to rebleed the clutch.
hig4s Posted March 31, 2008 #20 Posted March 31, 2008 I tried lubing my clutch cable, had to remove it to do so. It seems like there was plenty of oil in there to begin with, but I added some more. Removed the line off the slave cylinder to let the lube run all the way through. It just seems like it's such a pain in the butt to lube this line, it's takes forever to rebleed the clutch. :rotf::rotf:
Steve S Posted March 31, 2008 #21 Posted March 31, 2008 I tried lubing my clutch cable, had to remove it to do so. It seems like there was plenty of oil in there to begin with, but I added some more. Removed the line off the slave cylinder to let the lube run all the way through. It just seems like it's such a pain in the butt to lube this line, it's takes forever to rebleed the clutch. flb_78,, you AINT RIGHT man:rotf:
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