Clutch slipping

[Guest kober]

On the way back from the Havasu Biker Rodeo I was following an 18 wheeler at about 75MPH. When I decided to pass him, I moved to the left lane, turned the throttle all the way and heard the RPMs go up but the bike didn't speed up until I let off the throttle a bit and then twisted a bit slower. To me that means my clutch was slipping. That the was the first time that has ever happend. Is it time for a new clutch or what?

The bike is an 06 with about 28,000 miles.

[Condor]

On the way back from the Havasu Biker Rodeo I was following an 18 wheeler at about 75MPH. When I decided to pass him, I moved to the left lane, turned the throttle all the way and heard the RPMs go up but the bike didn't speed up until I let off the throttle a bit and then twisted a bit slower. To me that means my clutch was slipping. That the was the first time that has ever happend. Is it time for a new clutch or what?

The bike is an 06 with about 28,000 miles.

 

Three things come to mind. #1 friction inhanced oil at your last change. #2 need to bleed the brakes ,and make sure the reserve isn't over full. #3 clutch job new friction discs and springs.

[Guest kober]

Changed the oil. Used Mobil 1 100% synthetic for wet clutches. Pricey but seems to have worked. Additionally and unexpectedly, my RSTD no longer whines as loudly as it did before. That all by itself is worth the extra bucks!

[Squeeze]

I have had too many negative Experience and Comments on synthetic Oil regarding the Clutch slipping, even if it's M/C Oil and in use by a Lot of Members here with decent Reviews. I won't comment that further and open this Can of Worms again.

 

Maybe it's time to replaced the Clutch Springs. May be early but ...

 

 

If you ride like this for a while, prepare to change the Steel Plates also if the Time comes to replace the Friction Plates. The Steel Plates will be blue and Junk. So, either stay away from the Throttle or do something now.

[Squidley]

Kurt,

Sounds like the clutch is slipping and the mileage isn't uncommon for that to happen. I had the same thing happen on my '99 at about 30K. What I recommend is going here to PCW racing

http://www.pcwracing.net/catalog.htm

Get the heavy duty clutch spring kit and your problem will go away. I have done 4 of the upgrades on G2's and for the price you can't beat it. The process is less than an hour if your mechanically inclined and 2 if your not. You dont have to drain the oil out of it, just set it on the sidestand and pull the cover off the opposite side and swap it out.

[Knothaid]

Clutch slipping is not uncommon even at this mileagae. Some folks have even reported it much earlier. I doubt you will ever have to replace the friction plates, they just don't seem to wear in a wet clutch. I keep the bike in gear all the time even when stopped and there was no wear on mine at 47k. But the pressure plate is not the best design and perhaps one of the weaker areas on an otherwise fine machine. You can pick up a Barnett conversion (SR2) and a gasket and install it yourself with the bike on the sidestand. This is 98% certain to cure clutch slipping if it is mechanical. The Barnett uses a 6 spring unit versus Mama Yammies 2 spring unit. When done, you can feel a little more pressure on the clutch lever, but not too much. Well woth the ~$140 for the Barnett and the gasket IMO.

 

IIRC, there is a tutorial on this site to do the changeover.

 

HTH

Knot

[craigatcsi]

This is an old post, but I am now running into a similar problem at 20K on my 07 Venture.

I have always run Mobile 1 from Walmart and never noticed a problem. - Is there a Mobile 1 specific for Motorcycles? - Could this be my problem?

If so, where do I find Mobile 1 for bikes?

If it IS the clutch spring thing, shouldn't it be covered by warranty?

craigr

[SilvrT]

This is an old post, but I am now running into a similar problem at 20K on my 07 Venture.

 

I have always run Mobile 1 from Walmart and never noticed a problem. - Is there a Mobile 1 specific for Motorcycles? - Could this be my problem?

 

If so, where do I find Mobile 1 for bikes?

 

If it IS the clutch spring thing, shouldn't it be covered by warranty?

 

craigr

 

I hesitate to say it coz someone will probably state the opposite but IMHO, unless something is boken, worn clutch plates are "normal wear and tear" which means they'd "probably" not be covered under warranty. Then again, it's always worth a try.

 

My own experience with synthetic is, if you put it into an older bike with lots of miles that hasn't been using synthetic and you might have clutch issues (slippage).

 

Walmart sells Mobile 1 synthetic motorcycle oil ... that's what I used.

 

Remove the clutch discs/plates and inpect them. If they still look good, scuff them up with emery paper and stick 'em back in.

[RedRider]

The clutch is considered a wear item (like brakes and tires) and is not covered under warranty. The clutch spring often seems to be the culprit.

 

If you take it in, the dealer will change out the complete clutch for about $400. If you did it yourself, you will likely find the friction disks are all within spec. If you have run it for a while with it slipping, you may have blue'd the steels and they will need replaced. For the money, do it all yourself - it is really easy.

 

I have also had this problem. Will be going with a PCW kit this winter.

 

RR

[Floyd]

Kurt,

 

Sounds like the clutch is slipping and the mileage isn't uncommon for that to happen. I had the same thing happen on my '99 at about 30K. What I recommend is going here to PCW racing

 

http://www.pcwracing.net/catalog.htm

 

Get the heavy duty clutch spring kit and your problem will go away.

 

I went to the site as I also have clutch slippage (66K miles). However, I don't see any mention of clutch kits at pcwracing. Am i missing something?

[V7Goose]

I went to the site as I also have clutch slippage (66K miles). However, I don't see any mention of clutch kits at pcwracing. Am i missing something?

Unless they have recently changed, PCW Racing does not take internet orders. Most of the stuff they deal with is for the monstrously ugly cousin to the Royal Stars, but some of that stuff crosses over for us too! Best thing to do is just give 'em a call and tell them you want a clutch upgrade kit for your bike.

 

The upgrade kit consists of a heavier spring, a gasket, and a full-size friction plate that replaces the weenie half-plate and wave spring in the back of the stack. They will suggest you consider buying all new friction disks too, but IMHO there is absolutely no need for that. Your current friction disks will measure exactly as new when you check them, and the upgrade kit alone will cost you around $80 and completely solve your problem.

Goose

[craigatcsi]

To me, it just seems insane that a m/c clutch can wear out at 20k!!

I have NEVER replaced a clutch on any of my past M/Cs though this is my biggest and the only one I bought new.

If I HAVE to replace it I will, but I hate to spend the money if it isn't the real problem.

I did just have the bike in for its 16k service, (at 20k). I am going to take the bike back and ask them to check the clutch for air since they were supposed to change the fluid during that service.

craigr

[Squidley]

I went to the site as I also have clutch slippage (66K miles). However, I don't see any mention of clutch kits at pcwracing. Am i missing something?

 

 

Alex,

Just call PCW and talk with John Gayne and let him know that you wnat to purchase the upgrade clutch kit for your Venture, he'll send you everything you need.

[BradT]

Alex,

 

 

 

Just call PCW and talk with John Gayne and let him know that you wnat to purchase the upgrade clutch kit for your Venture, he'll send you everything you need.

 

Yup and he likes to explain what your getting so the phone call takes a little longer, than just ordering a part.

 

Its okay as he knows what he is talking about

 

Brad

[craigatcsi]

I just noticed something today. There are bubbles in the sight glass for the clutch.

This seems odd. Might they have done a poor job of flushing the fluid then bleeding the air out and THIS be causing the little slippage?

I don't remember ever seeing bubbles in there before, although since that is just a resevoir for the fluid and the bubbles are on the top, I don't see how they could be pushed into the line. - Am I thinking this right?

craigr

[Squidley]

I dont think the bubbles are a big deal in the sight glass, there are probably several different ways that they can accumulate there. It's possible that the job wasn't done properly, but you more than likely wouldn't have any clutch if this were the case. It's really not hard to bleed the clutch, buy a speed bleeder and do it yourself, then you know it's done right.

[Beau Geste]

I dont think the bubbles are a big deal in the sight glass, there are probably several different ways that they can accumulate there. It's possible that the job wasn't done properly, but you more than likely wouldn't have any clutch if this were the case. It's really not hard to bleed the clutch, buy a speed bleeder and do it yourself, then you know it's done right.

 

Related to anothe post I made intehforum recently: I've (just) started running some Mobil-1 5W-30 Extended Service oil in my '08 RSTD and it seems to have had a significant effect in reducing chirp/whine. Have been thinking about installing a Barnett SR-2 clutch spring upgrade to minimize the chance of any clutch slip from the slipperier-than-approved lube attitives that are used in this 'eco-friendly' synthetic.

How common is it that the clutch hydraulics will need to be bled after replacement of the diaphragm springs with the new spring plate? Should I just go ahead and buy a speed bleeder before I even crack the case?