Dash IC board

[Patch]

Any thoughts on what is seen in the pics below?

 

I measured the coils they are all in at 0.1

 

I measured the resistors they are all just under 6K

 

Thank's

[Prairiehammer]

What are your symptoms?

It appears the Reed Switch (RS3) has a FUBARed coil. The coil when operated normally creates an electromagnetic field; that electromagnetic field opens or closes the reed switch. I think RS3 controls the tail light. IOW, it senses when the tailight bulb(s) are burned out and sends a signal to the CMS to warn you.

[Patch]

What are your symptoms?

It appears the Reed Switch (RS3) has a FUBARed coil. The coil when operated normally creates an electromagnetic field; that electromagnetic field opens or closes the reed switch. I think RS3 controls the tail light. IOW, it senses when the tailight bulb(s) are burned out and sends a signal to the CMS to warn you.

 

Right on man! I was going through the bike yesterday and found my tail was out, fuse blown!

I could use a clearer wiring diagram than the ones I have!

 

Thank's so much man I'm hunting down a short;) Well at least I know where to start

 

Patch

[Prairiehammer]

I could use a clearer wiring diagram than the ones I have!

 

Apparently you haven't downloaded @dingy very clear schematics. Here:http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42358-1st-Gen-Wiring-Schematics-1983-1993

I downloaded, saved to my computer and then printed the schematics on a wide format printer. The resulting 13" x 19" color prints were then laminated.

 

Hmm, I should sell them on the Classifieds here...

[Patch]

Thank's again Kevin, I looked last night on the forum, searched for -repair manual, came up empty! Now I have a good PDF manual but the schematics are shaded,

I'm on way over to download.

 

I think I read the fuse as 14.7 so 5A high, hope that'll be the end of it???

 

After reading your reply to my OP I ran out like a mutt chasing a ball, LOL went to get a new fuse box, going to remove the extra back lighting and splices I've found around the tail and clean things up.

 

 

[Prairiehammer]

Patch, did you download this schematic? http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/90-93%20Yamaha%20Venture%20DA%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf

 

On the reed switch, you can desolder the coil and reed switch and solder in a jumper to replace the reed switch.

 

Regarding the fuse block replacement: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?66650-Upgraded-and-updated-Fuse-block%28s%29

 

[Patch]

Mr. Pairiehammer, Boy was I pleased to see your post this morning!

Yes I uploaded the 86-93 last night; man was I frustrated trying to find ---how you knew that Reed was for the tail! Where man- is it shown? Fork!

 

Was thinking about removing the Reed and either cleaning it and dipping it ,or just making a new one; but if you think a jumper will do the trick, easy enough!

 

I just took a look at your fuse box, I used the same one 4 years back, on my 11000F, it does have a solid bus which made a deference for our coil issues we were having! However the casing cracked so I replaced it this year with another that saves you from testing fusing, as circuit will light red when one blows.

 

The one I picked up last night is not single bus type, I thought I'd stick to the existing format, but using the small ATC 's, it's large enough for me to get everything into one box.

This box won't fit over the battery -so I started to fab up a small stainless bracket last night. The ground bock is a good idea and I should incorporate that into the bracket!

Pairiehammer posted

"It appears the Reed Switch (RS3) has a FUBARed coil. The coil when operated normally creates an electromagnetic field; that electromagnetic field opens or closes the reed switch. I think RS3 controls the tail light. IOW, it senses when the tailight bulb(s) are burned out and sends a signal to the CMS to warn you."

 

Now, please, why do you know this???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

 

Patch

[Patch]

Was working last night hoping to get the fuse box finished, I worked till just after 10 completing the wiring, then I closed the lights and locked up.

We have some guest spending time with us and one said, the shop window is open??????

It didn't look bad at first kind of thought we were lucky, all I saw missing was my shop laptop, there goes the manuals and notes and photos of the older projects, but as far as I could see no tools missing although every door and drawer had been left open?

Funny cartoonish thing is, while taking the laptop he must of tripped in the dark and kicked over a lt of oil, from that we could see every where he went, over to each bike the Venture had quite a bit of tools/meters.... stuff, took nothing? Mind you he wouldn't be able to exit a door he had to use the small window.

I figured he/they will be back? So went out and built some grills installed, then came our tool truck........... bummer guys they took anything that looked new and there was plenty to take, last year was a retooling year for our 2 crews!

 

They left behind on one of the tool boxes in the van a flashlight with head band and an old slotted driver I found in front of the tire, like from the 50s hard clear yellow with a green top, anyways the crime tech that was sent over, dusted, took pics of the foot prints, and smiled when we pointed the flashlight out to him! Well I received good service from our police force, see what comes of it.

 

Get this the bleeping bleeper walked and climber over my plastics for one of the old bikes, he used the 2 side trunks to climb out, that's House Of Color blue marble......

 

So I'm on hold for a bit, be safe, talk soon

Patch

[Great White]

Gawd I hate thieves.

 

One of the most cowardly lowest form of life on the planet.

 

Sadly, its a far too common event these days...

[Patch]

Yes sir, Mr. GW, bottom feeders, for sure!

 

I did slip in to the shop to hang my thoughts Sunday and yesterday night, the fuse box all wired in. I ended up putting it in the radio compartment, good fit!

 

I tested each circuit for draw, I did find 2 different items.

1st Prairiehammer is correct (again) there is a gremlin in the box and it was confusing at first while checking with a test light. Here's what I found:

ACC has power after switched off, but the complete picture is how much and whats the load?

From On to off we have Bat. voltage, after 3 minutes we fade slowly down to 6ish, if we short it, switch off, power gone 0 voltage

At switch on to off measuring load, 0 load at 12V and so on..

So I think it's a bleed in the ing switch, likely old lube slightly conductive, maybe contact dust partials??? It seems to be a harmless ghost for the moment at least.

 

Because there's no load, there is no real worry in my case, I stopped chasing it.

 

Next was to figure what/where the load or short was on the tail circuit that messed up the reed/sw, here's what I found:

6A sw/on, brake on 6.3A most of the marker lights inactive.

Twisting the large white connector, load would drop to 3 or 2.6A?

Separated the connector, load down to 2.3A , not obvious but there was some darkened pins, cleaned them move on to the next one beside it, found that one to be in poor condition, cleaned it, load steady a 5A.

I then removed all the blue spice taps, discounting years of patches, cleaned the remaining plugs and wires, repaired all the broken insulation.

Load down to 3.1 - 3.2 -not sure why but likely a ground path, when I light the brake it actually drops 0.1 A, "what ever"

 

Monitor working well now at least during testing. Better yet, my air system has no more EEEEEEEEEs. But I do have a question on that, please, why while on the center stand, does the valve open releasing the front shocks air in ACC, yet not the rear shock??? If I go straight to on doesn't.

 

Next up the throttle handle was knocked off the bike during the ..... I had the switch off for repair, anyhow the seat housing for the cables broke off, bummer.

 

I'll post pics tonight

 

Patch

[Patch]

Keven not sure how I missed those pics of the board with jumpers? Thanks for posting them, knowing the problem saved me considerable time!

 

Here are the pics of the fuse box, unfortunately the one that shows the view of a blow circuit lit up is 2.13 MB so it wont upload but you get the idea.

 

I wired the harness extensions as it was originally and kept the fuses separate as though there were two boxes. This way if I need to troubleshoot in the future should be easy.

[Prairiehammer]

I note that your starter relay (solenoid) is (oddly) mounted upside down. Make sure that there is no interference with the posts on underside of the solenoid or damage to the wiring to and from it.

Overall, it appears to have been potential for lots of shorts and bad connections, especially back there under the seat.

I take it you transferred all the circuits from the old primary fuse block and the circuits from the old secondary fuse block to the new fuse block? Did you also put the CLASS power circuit into the new fuse block? What about the main fuse? If you retain the old main fuse, open it up and insure that the fuse mounting screws are tight and corrosion free. Also make sure that the main fuse had not blown sometime in the past and the PO inserted some kind of jumper to replace the old blown fusible link.

[Patch]

I note that your starter relay (solenoid) is (oddly) mounted upside down. Make sure that there is no interference with the posts on underside of the solenoid or damage to the wiring to and from it.

Overall, it appears to have been potential for lots of shorts and bad connections, especially back there under the seat.

I take it you transferred all the circuits from the old primary fuse block and the circuits from the old secondary fuse block to the new fuse block? Did you also put the CLASS power circuit into the new fuse block? What about the main fuse? If you retain the old main fuse, open it up and insure that the fuse mounting screws are tight and corrosion free. Also make sure that the main fuse had not blown sometime in the past and the PO inserted some kind of jumper to replace the old blown fusible link.

 

I'm going to have to check the relay, I didn't know it had been tampered with?

 

I left the class fuse original, I did open and inspect it, looks like I was the first in there.

 

I only did a visual on the main, it's not what I am use to but now that you mention it I will open it and follow through.

 

I combined both boxes but kept the split- as though they are still two units! It makes for a bit more wiring but after going through the schematics you forwarded , seeing how the ing system supports amps by combining circuits..... I thought I wouldn't attempt to rethink it!

Why I changed it was because I noticed poor conduction at the fuse cradles and the old Boss fuses are hard to find on the road, when you need them most.

 

I trust in your experience with these bikes so I will fallow through with the recommendations. I know the PO outside of oil had all the work done at the dealer, including the rear lighting. The bike is in very good condition for her age and has just 72,000 klm or 44,738 miles and with not much city driving.

 

Thanks for the support and sorry I missed some of your post!

[Patch]

Thanks for pointing those out, the main truthfully would have caused me to flip if I'ed blown that on a trip!

I used a Suzi main.

The other is an inline ATM blade, which I'm out of 20s. 20A seems high for the wiring I thought while looking at it?

 

I'll have to get to the starter relay next time!

 

Patch