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Posted

After purchasing my Venture several years ago, I've installed the under-the-trunk light to increase the safety. It already had a brake light modulator so it would flash the brake light several times before it stayed on. Worked really well for several years and than one day all the lights stopped working during a local ride. Turned out the fuse was gone bad and I replaced it. That brought my lights back but my brake light was not working.

 

After researching, it turned out my brake modulator was dead. Took it out and connected the brake lights directly. Everything worked fine but no flashing, just like it came from the factory. So I've ordered a new modulator. While installing a new modulator (a cheap no-name one I found on Ebay), I've installed another brake light - a Harley Davidson license plate light. I've upgraded it with a LED bulbs to reduce the current. Connected everything and everything worked fine - they were all on and, when applying the brake, it would flash a few times and than stayed on.

 

Took it for a two day ride and after about a 100 miles noticed my lights are off. Stopped at the gas station, checked the fuses and sure enough, the fuse was bad. Replaced the fuse and the lights are back on. But the modulator is not flashing the brakes. Disconnected the modulator and everything's working fine (factory setting).

 

Two questions - a) Does anybody have any experience with a more expensive modulators ("Back-Off" or similar)? From a few posts I understood they should all work the same way but could it be that a "Back-Off" is made to handle more lights than others? The one I bought was under $10 and a "Back-Off" is over $60 - I don't mind spending it if I can expect it to handle more brake lights.... Any experience with it?

 

b) I've replaced the original 15 fuse with a 25 fuse - do I want to leave the 25 in, or is it smarter to go back to 15?

 

Thank you guys for your suggestions.

Posted

You do NOT want to have that 25A fuse in there at all. If something is pulling enough power to blow a 15 Amp fuse. Allowing 25 amps to flow thru wires sized for 15 Amps could start the wires on fire.

 

If all of the lights that are being flashed with the modulator are incandecent, it is really hard on the flasher circuit due to the inrush current every time the lights switch on. the more expensive modulator MAY have circuitry to control these surges and MIGHT last longer. I do not run a brake modulator yet so I can not recommend one.

Posted

Thank you. I will definitely go back to 15 Amp then - I don't want any fires, obviously. The bulbs are all LED's though. I thought that would help easing the job for the modulator but...

Posted

I to have a rear brake modulator. Basicly they are a "modified" turn signal flasher if my memory serves correct. during recent threads involving turn signals and LED and the flashers either require modification or you have to install some kind of load thing-a-ma-bob to make the flasher draw enough amps to flash like regular bulbs. SO I wonder if maybe this is part of the problem.

I do have LED brake, and under the trunk lights and it just so happens I checked the yesterday and they all work A OK.

Posted

I have the Back-off modulator and have had it for five or six years. I have it hooked to all my brake lights. Two on the saddlebags, the under the trunk and the brake light. Have not had a problem yet and hope I don't. :whistling:

Posted

I have a Custom Dynamics modulator that is 2-3 years old. Flashes the LED under trunk bar plus the OEM incandescent bulb with no problems

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