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Posted

PS. skydoc your PM bucket is full!

 

So I have the clutch upgrade from Earl with the full disc and upgraded spring. From reading other posts, some who have done this upgrade experienced a very different 'feel' to the clutch that they had to get used to. Mine did not feel much different, and now that I have ridden a few times, both single and two-up, I am noticing that I again have slippage when I accelerate hard.

Are there things I should be checking or adjusting?

Is stacking the springs do-able if I still have the old one? (and how is it done?)

Is the new gasket likely to be re-usable since it is still fairly fresh?

thanks!

Jim

Posted

The gasket should be saveable, especially if you greased one side before putting the cover on. Your friction zone should have moved to almost all the way out with the lever, if it's still slipping I'd have to ask, what oil are you running?

Posted
The gasket should be saveable, especially if you greased one side before putting the cover on. Your friction zone should have moved to almost all the way out with the lever, if it's still slipping I'd have to ask, what oil are you running?

 

I'm using Rotella T 15w-40 (fresh oil change at time of clutch upgrade....don't know what was in it before)

Posted

Also, the Skydoc kit primarily deals with a weak spring. If your friction discs are shot the new spring won't help much. Did you measure the friction discs?

Posted
Also, the Skydoc kit primarily deals with a weak spring. If your friction discs are shot the new spring won't help much. Did you measure the friction discs?

No I didn't know to do that. Bike has 24,000 miles, is it likely the discs are worn out?

Posted
No I didn't know to do that. Bike has 24,000 miles, is it likely the discs are worn out?

 

Not unless you REALLY ride the clutch often. Although, it is a good practice to measure both the frictions and the steels for thickness when you work on your clutch.

 

RR

Posted

24K miles normally will not wear out a clutch. Mine has 60K of mostly city driving and when I do hit the road I am pulling a trailer, both hard on a clutch.

 

If you clutch has been slipping for a while it is possible that you have worn it out from all of the slipping.

 

Measure the clutch disks, A new disc is 3.0mm (0.1181 in.) thick and the wear limit is 2.8mm (0.1102 in.) thick. Not a lot of material between new and worn out.

Posted

Yes you can double the springs. BUT you may end up with a left forearm like Popeye.

 

Double check while you are in there measuring, the new spring is a little thicker than the old one. Make sure you actually put in the new one.

 

When was the last time you flushed out the clutch fluid? Should be done every 2 years?

Posted

Since the oil question has been answered it might possibly be that there's still air in the lines, or the clutch reserve expansion hole is plugged up...... Maybe??

Posted
Since the oil question has been answered it might possibly be that there's still air in the lines, or the clutch reserve expansion hole is plugged up...... Maybe??

Please explain.

Posted
Yes you can double the springs. BUT you may end up with a left forearm like Popeye.

 

Double check while you are in there measuring, the new spring is a little thicker than the old one. Make sure you actually put in the new one.

 

When was the last time you flushed out the clutch fluid? Should be done every 2 years?

 

yes I was already planning to check the clutch spring and make sure that I didn't put in the old one… Pretty sure I didn't… Would you expect me to admit it here if I did? Lol

i've only had the bike since September… Don't Know when fluid was last changed so I will look at it

Posted

Fluid should be water clear. Better also check the brake fluid, it is most likely the same age as the clutch fluid.

 

Yes we would expect you to admit it if you put the old spring back in.

We wouldn't pick on you too much.........really........ honest.........:stickpoke:

Besides it would make this thread a good learning tool for others to not make the same mistake.

Posted

I took it apart and checked the spring. It was the heavier one, so that's not it.

I checked the thickness of all the friction discs and they ranged from 2.93 to 2.99 mm.

There are 8 discs total.

Order of installation is

first friction disc in against metal surface inside clutch, then metal plate, then second friction disc, metal plate, etc.....to final friction disc then the pressure plate, then the metal ring with the lip (spring housing), then the clutch spring, and the ring with the 6 bolts.

If I double the springs, just to try it out, I would think I should put the thinner spring in first to give the other spring a better chance to catch on the lip of the spring housing. (Does the 2nd spring need to catch on the lip?) Do I line up the tabs of the two clutch springs or do I stagger them?

Longer term, should I be thinking of ordering new friction plates or a heavier spring?

Any comments on this?

Posted
Longer term, should I be thinking of ordering new friction plates or a heavier spring?

Any comments on this?

 

I had tried Doc's spring kit and though it's good for the price, I didn't like where the friction was felt on the lever. I then opted for the Barnett heavy duty spring and never looked back. I had so badly burnt out my clutch plates earlier on with the OEM spring that I replaced them with the Barnett plates and they've been holding up super well since then. The Barnett system is more expensive but works well. It requires more pull on the lever than stock but you get used to it in no time.

Posted
Please explain.

 

You said that it's still slipping with 2 up etc. And now I see where you mentioned that you haven't bled the clutch yet. You need to do that first. Then if you still have problems it might be easier to diagnose the problem. You can mess with the mechanical side of the clutch, but the hydraulic side might be the problem. I'm going to PM you a write up on bleeding the clutch. Maybe it'll help.

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