Gas Tank Issues

[Gypsygirl]

 

Here are pics of my 1989 gas tank and what I found when I removed it.

This bike has been sitting since 2004 and the owner thought he had removed all of the gas from the tank when he stopped using it. Not the case. There was almost a half of a gallon left in the tank. First pic is the sending unit. It is toast. Second pic is the coating that is flaking off of the inside of the gas tank. Third pic the tank. Outside is in good shape. Fourth pic is the inside of the tank. Huge blisters from the old coating.

I know about the product that will coat the inside when you get it cleaned. My question is, what would be the best method to address the inside of this tank?

Thank you very much for your help.

[Prairiehammer]

I suspect the gooey, crinkly stuff in the tank is the residue remaining after the gasoline evaporated, ie, "varnish".

I would start with the safest solvent first. Perhaps undiluted SeaFoam? Or a bucket of 'dip' or 'soak' type carburetor cleaner, ie, Berrymans. Some mechanical agitation with chains, nuts, bolts, etc and shaking and tumbling will probably be in order as well.

Never tried this, but perhaps a steam cleaner would work? Or a high pressure hot water washer with a caustic detergent?

Or consider getting a better condition tank on eBay.

[venturesome]

Some radiator shops will "boil them out" for you.

[MasterGuns]

If it were me facing this issue, I'd just pick up a used good replacement tank off eBay and save myself a lot of grief trying to clean up that mess. You may even find a good clean replacement that comes with the sending unit. Good luck.

[van avery]

Just got done doing a tank on an 84 VARIGO. Last tag on the bike was dated 1995.

Used the Kreem system. Called out to wash out with warm soapy water with rocks or nuts and bolts to break up the gunk. (Lots of time shaking tank) I used nuts and bolts so I could pull them out with magnet. I messed up and used one SS bolts but did get it out with long needle nose pliers.

Then use their part A that was a slight acid that would clean up the rust and etch the inside of the tank leave in overnite if tank in bad condition and then rinse completely. This removed a bunch of rust and hardened gas. Rinsed this about 7 to 8 times to get cleaned up. When I rinsed this out I got a bunch more rust and hardened gas out in chunks.

Then use part B to neutralize. This helps dry out the interior of the tank . Then use the kreem and keep rolling the tank around to try to completely coat the inside of the tank. waited about 6 hours and poured the rest of the kreem in and tried to get abetter coating. Waited several days before I put gas in the beast today and or course I cleaned the carbs and she lives again. The system cost about $60 at the local bike shop.

I also used a hydroblaster before I cleaned with soapy water.

Time consuming job but seems to have worked well. Used Duct tape to seal the openings during the process.

Good luck

[Snaggletooth]

OK,my take on the tank. The tank itself is probably savable. The sending unit, well go for the obvious. Saving the tank can be expensive and complex or affordable and simple depending on the sealer used and the method to prep it.

 

First choice, and the old school method, considering the pics provided would be find a shop that would actually split the tank and blast the inside to restore a fresh raw metal surface then re-weld the tank and reseal it. Expensive, yes. But a reasonable option for a tank that is rare or hard to find but with your bike that's not the problem. Plenty of them available.

 

Second choice, and a more realistic one is the suggested treatment to remove the old varnish and crud. I'd take to a car wash and power wash it as best you can first to blow out as much as possible before even treating it with a gas cleaner. Then a couple handfuls for BB's, small nuts and bolts or other such metal objects to break down rust with a good "shake & bake" workout. Repeat as needed for best results. Then another power wash to clean it out again and a rinse with alcohol or similar drying agent.

 

Then it's time to decide on the sealer to use. Over years I've used several types with mixed results. The one I'm most satisfied with was a product from Caswells. It's an 2 part epoxy that has given me the most durable and best seal results on all the different tanks I've done. The Caswell sealer can be used even on tanks that still have surface rust, rust damage along the seams or thin spots. It's thick and fills in the damage and creates a smooth surface. The epoxy bonds as well with the remaining surface rust and well as the raw metal surface. The results are like the inside of a Thermos bottle. It's been about 4 years since I did my '84 tank and more than pleased with the product. Even better, not a trace of rust has shown up in the filter.

 

Of course, the option of buying a used tank with a sending unit, which you will need anyway is a fair solution. But cleaning the "new" used tank and re-sealing it before install is a good preventive measure for the future. A step I wouldn't skip myself.

 

So just some options to consider. Best of luck.

[Gypsygirl]

Thanks for all the help guys. I will call the radiator shop tomorrow and get it boiled out first, then go with the Kreem system.

I should be able to find a sending unit on ebay.

[Brenner]

Just saw this post and thought I would mention what worked for me when I cleaned up my virago tank that had sat for 24 years (no kidding not exaggerating years sitting it was thick) with varnish in it. I was on a budget and bought a gallon size CLR bottle or rather the local hardware brand equivalent and used some small chains of various lengths. I let it sit over night after capping of the openings and did alot of shaking. I recovered and strained the product to see what came out. It worked GREAT and the inside finish was amazing and like new. I used my inspection camera to check it thoroughly through and was impressed. It cost me less than $20 and a an hours or so worth of work. Best money I spent. I did not need to coat the tank afterwards but once drained I immediately flushed with mineral spirits to prevent rusting. I just sold that bike last week and the tank was still like new inside. If I ever need to clean a tank again I will use this process first as I am a strong believer in this method. In fact I ended up using the used clr again in another tank on a 2 stroke trail bike before I disposed of it. It did both tanks before the color of it made me dispose of it. Try it you might be surprised and it won't damage your parts, but do use gloves and be prepared to shake it up with the small chains as they are what helps scrub the tank inside. Good Luck.

[dingy]

Here is a really good looking tank on ebay.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Yamaha-XVZ1200-XVZ-12-Venture-Y396-gas-fuel-petrol-tank-w-cap-and-rubber-/291327041211?hash=item43d471debb&vxp=mtr

 

About $85 including shipping.

 

Seller may have sender & petcock also.

 

Gary

[BlueSky]

CLR is advertised as being good for cleaning the calcium deposits out of your coffee maker. BUT, if you run it through your coffee maker, you better make sure you run water through the coffee maker MANY times before you use it to make coffee! Don't ask how I know!

[Brenner]

CLR is advertised as being good for cleaning the calcium deposits out of your coffee maker. BUT, if you run it through your coffee maker, you better make sure you run water through the coffee maker MANY times before you use it to make coffee! Don't ask how I know!

 

Lol.... I didn't try to taste anything from either tank afterwards so I really can't comment.... Thanks for sharing it gave me a good chuckle.

[Gypsygirl]

Thanks Brenner, great tip.

Called the radiator shop this morning and they want $100 to boil the tank. Before I do that I will try your method using the CLR.

I got a sending unit off ebay for $18.

[Gypsygirl]

 

Okay, I have the gas tank cleaned up and I am ready to Cream the tank.

I have a few questions. I have searched the library and the internet forum search but can not find instructions for the following.

1) How do I drill out the neck of my tank if that is in fact necessary, 1989 model, and

2)How do I prevent the Cream from clogging up this vent?

3) I need new fuel lines and would like to use OEM lines. Where do I order these?

Every where I have searched did not have them in stock.

Thank you for your replies.

I am very close to getting this beast fired up. I have removed the plugs and put sea foam in and let that soak.

Charged up my new battery and this thing turns over nice. Carb slide all are working. Hope all that I need is this tank hooked back up to get this thing to fire over and start.

Love this site!!!

[cowpuc]

Hey ya Gypsy,, wassup sister!!

Have a done a fair amount of tank restoration throughout my bike restoring years. Gotta make this short cause we are getting ready to pull out for a memorial ride for a friend who had his drinking cup bounce out of his cup holder years ago (why I use only styro foam cups to this very day) and cost him his life). Have tried many products, including Cream Coat (think its spelled Kreem Koat of something). Was very unhappy with the long term results of Cream Coat (the white stuff that is sold in kits for home use), invented my own stuff using a product called Seal All (yellow tube, no idea if its even available now) and had very good results with it. Then I found a commercial source thru my business for the product that commercial tank repair shops use, the product is call Red Kote (think that is spelled right, no time to check - should be close though if you wanna investigate it). This stuff is AMAZING!!

To reopen that vent line all you have to do is hit it the end of the vent with some air pressure after you coat the tank - thats easy! More to come,, gotta run!!

[djh3]

Allways had good luck with this stuff cleaning carb parts. +1 on the old nuts and bolts rattle around clean method. Will knock a lot of the stuff loose and get out. Then you need something to soften up the rest and get it mobile to get out of tank. As far as the vent not getting clogged. Find a wire that will fit in and push in the tube. When coating is done you can just pull it out.

[Karaboo]

"Okay, I have the gas tank cleaned up and I am ready to Cream the tank.

I have a few questions. I have searched the library and the internet forum search but can not find instructions for the following.

1) How do I drill out the neck of my tank if that is in fact necessary, 1989 model"

 

I don't think you will have to do any drilling on the neck. You may be referencing a mod done to 2nd gens.

[djh3]

Yea the second gens have "gas bubble" issues when filling to the tippy top. if I am on a trip and want to stuff every drop it has to bubble up a few times to get gas up around the lip of the cap area.

[Gypsygirl]

Thanks Karaboo. That's what I needed to know.

One other thing. Where do you get your OEM gas lines? I need the one from the pet cock to the fuel filter.

Every where I have checked they are out of stock.

Again this is for a 1989.