1983 venture starts w/choke wont idle past 20 secs.

[kinsmd69]

Ok, also need to bleed the clutch. At least now, it starts right up, and will stay idling

at 1100 after 60 secs. I adjusted the 1 and 2 carbs by ear, so it sounded better and

idles higher. Will read other posts on clutch bleeding. Any ideas on adjust the carbs

to sync them w/o gauges. I'm just an accountant, no mechanic, but try and do what I

can.

[kinsmd69]

Ok, so how does one check each carb to tell if it is running lean or rich?

 

Then, how do you try and sync the carbs without a vacuum tool? I have none.

 

Thanks.

My bike is a 83 1200. Got very lucky and is in good condtion. Also, have a 84 to start bringing back to life. PO was going to part out and junk.

[bongobobny]

1. There s NO way to sync the carbs by ear!!

 

2. The richness is set using either a CO analyzer on each exhaust (most accurate) or using a color tune spark plug.

[kinsmd69]

Ok thanks.

[Prairiehammer]

Ok, so how does one check each carb to tell if it is running lean or rich?

 

Then, how do you try and sync the carbs without a vacuum tool? I have none.

 

Thanks.

My bike is a 83 1200. Got very lucky and is in good condtion. Also, have a 84 to start bringing back to life. PO was going to part out and junk.

 

I'll make a deal with you, Marty. Become a supporting member here and I will synchronize your carbs for free.

Just ride the bike over here.

[syscrusher]

Also, any hints on putting c clip back on shifter rod lever? Pics coming tonight!!!!

 

A pair of Channellock pliers has a larger jaw that sort of has an "overbite" on the lower jaw.

Use this overbite to squeeze the 'C' clip onto the shaft for the shifter rod.

[Prairiehammer]

Top two lights on left, on control panel, are on.

 

Here is a graphic of the CMS and it's icons.

[jasonm.]

you say idle for 20 seconds with or without the choke continually on. FYI- these need the choke on to start usually when cold and sometimes need that choke on for minutes. But that varies by how much choke you pull the lever. Mine rarely needs more than 1/2 choke on a cold 1st start of the morning. And after 1 minute it's off. As I have found full choke is TOO RICH in warmer temps and it will run ruff after 1st start and could die if all the other settings are also on the rich side. AKA- float settings, mixture screws.... My floats were bad till replaced and this caused a rich issue. Now all is "normal". Still only need 1/2 choke on cold mornings but using full choke does not cause major problems like before...aka--idle death

[kinsmd69]

A pair of Channellock pliers has a larger jaw that sort of has an "overbite" on the lower jaw.

Use this overbite to squeeze the 'C' clip onto the shaft for the shifter rod.

Thanks, syscrusher. I quit for the night, and tried it the next day, and it went right on ! I didn't have the

shifter rod pulled out far enough.

[kinsmd69]

I'll make a deal with you, Marty. Become a supporting member here and I will synchronize your carbs for free.

Just ride the bike over here.

 

That sounds like a good deal. Only, not sure if bike will make it. I cant believe your only 25 miles away. Can you also set the carbs for running rich or lean?

It starts right up, and warms up and idles at 900 . Though, there still is missing. I put sea foam in gas and filled tank to help

clean them out more. Can't believe how well S.F. worked by putting in drain hoses. Also, now all cylinders are getting warm.

Now that cylinder 4 has warmed up, I will attempt to get that plug out. Plus, front shocks are bottoming out, so must need air.

I found a vacuum guage, but only one line. Can I attempt to synch carbs with just one line hooked to #2 , #1 , then #3 , #4 , individually?

[oldgoat]

prairriehammer how far are you away from lasalle?

 

if you wanted to I would be happy to pick you up and go up there to Princeton. and give you what little help I can on you setting his carbs for him.

 

I don't have the tool or recall how to sync any more so I could just supervise LOL

 

but on the condition he joins us for that low but good help cost of $12 to joing up with us.

[Prairiehammer]

Can I attempt to synch carbs with just one line hooked to #2 , #1 , then #3 , #4 , individually?

 

While it CAN be done, it is pretty difficult. Every time you adjust one, then that throws off the others. Back and forth, four times each or more. Four carbs. Back and forth, etc.

It is possible, I suppose, but you might spend an hour or more only to discover that the synch is still off.

 

Check your voicemail.

[Prairiehammer]

prairriehammer how far are you away from lasalle?

 

James, I can see the Peru and LaSalle water towers from my place. LOL

Ten minutes or so.

I have a vehicle and COULD go to Princeton, but I figure if I ask Marty to bring the bike here, then it will be an incentive to get it on the road. You are welcome to motor over to my place and help supervise, though.

[oldgoat]

just thought I would drive you up there bud but understand what your saying.

and heck yeah I would be happy to stop by and learn from you if he can get the bike to you.

I was just willing to take you up there as this site and people here have helped me so much I thought I could pay it forward.

no cost to you for gas or nothing to take you up there. and who knows maybe a rootbeer? LOL

[kinsmd69]

The ride over is encouraging, but Ive got to get the other bugs out first; suspension, carbs cleaned out, ect. Plus, Ive never

drove a bike w/sidecar, so its going to be an experience. And I just tore my left rotator cuff, so not sure if can even ride it, or that

long even. Also, since been sitting for a year, shouldn't I wait until carbs get cleaned out better before syncing, and how long will it take? Don't wont to

take it for an out of town ride and have it break down, I couldn't get it on a trailer again!!!. I like and appreciate your offer to sync the carbs,

and will take you up on it. Besides, was going to join the site, anyway! Its actually running better, the more I start and get gas run thru it. I put sea foam

in the gas to help keep cleaning it. JasonM, thanks, and yes, now it comes off the choke after a few minutes.

[kinsmd69]

Well, started up fine today, with a little choke, then no check in 2 mins. Once warmed, tried to check the vacuum in each carb.

No. 1 carb , pulled the vacuum plug , got no change; therefore must be a vacuum leak somewhere, correct?

Pulled vacuum plug on 2, put back, then pulled VP on carb 3, both had at least a change in functioning, and went back to normal

when put VP back on each one. Tried no. 4 carb, and it popped and sputtered and almost died. Put vacuum gauge on each carb

and it bounced all over the place on each carb.

Got suspension aired up and holding.

[Patch]

Well, started up fine today, with a little choke, then no check in 2 mins. Once warmed, tried to check the vacuum in each carb.

No. 1 carb , pulled the vacuum plug , got no change; therefore must be a vacuum leak somewhere, correct?

Pulled vacuum plug on 2, put back, then pulled VP on carb 3, both had at least a change in functioning, and went back to normal

when put VP back on each one. Tried no. 4 carb, and it popped and sputtered and almost died. Put vacuum gauge on each carb

and it bounced all over the place on each carb.

Got suspension aired up and holding.

 

 

Read all the posts to your thread and must say, you have received some very good advice!

Something I do a lot of is abandoned bikes, -next to my ear a vacuum gauge is my favorite tool! The vacuum gauge you describe is designed for use with a "plenum chamber" that is why you are seeing a difficult to read "readings"!

You can not use this for syncing the carbs!

However you can use this to read fuel pump pressure!

Also if you spend the membership fee I will tell you the results of the vacuum gauge readings and how to come up with the two numbers nessary to move forward!

 

SG

[kinsmd69]

SG Thanks, I plan on sending in the membership fee. This bike is the first of three projects I got to do this summer. I have already learned a lot from this page.

And I can and will learn a lot more from this website. My heart has always been in working on bikes, its my mind and hands that I have trouble with !!! Some days

I just shouldn't pick up a tool! But all of those that have responded have been very helpful.

Now, I'm just starting the bike and running the gas through the carbs to help get them cleaned. I'm thinking of putting more sea foam in the carbs by means of

drain hose and letting them sit over night. If the weather holds up, I hope to polish it and clean all the chrome. All little things wrong are slowly loosening up and

working again.

[Patch]

"its my mind and hands that I have trouble with !!! "

Well, that's a crowded boat man;) time does that to fellow!

Picking up tools is a mind set, first, no point placing a tool in our hands till we first make a plan.

I should add this to my post, my Venture this time out rolled into our shop Monday noon, was on the road Friday morning with it.

I too tend to split my time between riding and fixing, sometimes I'm told by my son; "let's just ride Dad" he's right Kinsmd there comes a time to just wipe the tools and spin the wheels!

 

So adding more seafoam to the bowls, what's the plan, what are you looking for as a result?

Have you thought about doing a compression test?

I know you bled the clutch have you changed all the hydraulic fluids?

Have you checked the brakes for proper operation?

Have you checked the steering stem?

 

[kinsmd69]

S.G.

 

The plan is to get it running well, first. Having issues with no. 1 and no. 3 carb. Thought, a little more sea form overnight, might

help clean them out better. No. 1 has no change when I pull off vacuum plug; no. 3 cylinder heats up faster, and carb 3 pops after warmed up.

I bleed clutch to get it working. Brakes work also. Need to change all hydraulic fluids yet, since not sure how long sat, 1-2 yrs in heated garage.

Who / where does membership fees get sent?

[Patch]

S.G.

 

The plan is to get it running well, first. Having issues with no. 1 and no. 3 carb. Thought, a little more sea form overnight, might

help clean them out better. No. 1 has no change when I pull off vacuum plug; no. 3 cylinder heats up faster, and carb 3 pops after warmed up.

I bleed clutch to get it working. Brakes work also. Need to change all hydraulic fluids yet, since not sure how long sat, 1-2 yrs in heated garage.

Who / where does membership fees get sent?

 

Glad to hear you're ready to join up, old bikes need their forums, and forums need members! If you are having problems hit the contact admin link, you get a quick response there!

 

The information you provided regarding the vacuum is helpful, as is the fact that is cold. You will see it warm after running it for a while because of thermal transfer- and that is likely the only reason it warms at idle.

 

I think you mentioned earlier, you have checked each for spark?

 

Post 23

Oh, and all cylinders getting warm. Will re -start on choke immediately, 20 secs take off choke, and idles at 700 rpms. TO LOW! Start the bike and have a good screwdriver ready, within 1 minute of starting it turn the linkage screw to the right/tighten one turn (1 turn) JUST #1 carb! You should pick up RPM, Choke is off!

Now if you have seen RPM rise then we're on the right track, read the temp, shut the engine, wait 15/20 minutes, start again and check the temp on 1 & 2, I use the exhaust casting flange for this and always at the same place for a more accurate reading!

 

Let us know!

 

Don't panic here if your revs go a little wild, we are just trying to see if #1 pilot circuit is off or blocked!

 

Find smoke problem. Don't wont to over heat right rear cylinder. Have started 3 times and let run for a minute, until smoke starts, then shut off and cool again.

Top two lights on left, on control panel, are on. Looking them up now. Thanks all!!!! THIS IS WRONG, the bike needs to get to operating temp! For a couple of reasons, it hasn't been run for a long time, there is seafoam...............

 

PS. get a shop fan for working on the bike, aimed at the rad, keep it running except when reading exchaust temps

Edited May 7, 2015 by Patch

[kinsmd69]

Ok. Have all new plugs, all firing. no problems.

Cant find linkage screw, as mentioned above. Looked into manual, no" linkage screw to adjust," (all other jets and screws, none as linkage). Has a tear down view of carbs. Found pilot screw and jet.

No problems with panel lights, all off and everything running ok, except carbs.

Still cant ride bike, cause of shoulder.

[Patch]

Ok. Have all new plugs, all firing. no problems.

Cant find linkage screw, as mentioned above. Looked into manual, no" linkage screw to adjust," (all other jets and screws, none as linkage). Has a tear down view of carbs. Found pilot screw and jet.

No problems with panel lights, all off and everything running ok, except carbs.

Still cant ride bike, cause of shoulder.

 

kneeling down on the left side of the bike, looking at the carb caps, move the small black vacuum tube by pulling it forward and out of the way- cast your eye past the stainless U-shaped clip, just to the right of the cable hub, you see a slotted screw!

 

That is the screw you need to turn, 1 turn, then start the engine, let us know if there is a difference in the RPM and then the temp.

 

See the pictures below:

[kinsmd69]

ok, that screw at bottom of a plounger plate, it wouldn't screw in at all, so its all the way in. I screwed it back one full

turn and the idle picked up. Is there a set place it should be at, to start a good adjustment? The no. 1 carb has vacuum in

the plug, but there is no change/decrease in idle when I pull plug off. The no. 3 carb has straightened out, so 2,3,4 carbs all

have vacuum and lose approximately half idle when plug on intake cover is removed. Only no. 1 still has no change. Bike is

idling at 1000 good and strong, since 3 picked up. But no 1 cylinder is still slower at getting hot in top half, but does warm up.

Membership on its way.

[Patch]

Well outside of the choke I can't think of any other setting that should be set to a max?

 

For general knowledge I'll mention this, before syncing carbs it's important to do basics, like a tune-up checking for heat on the pipes to make sure each cylinder is firing. If we use vacuum to sync not knowing if a cylinder is firing we end up with what you describe.

 

I assume you turned the correct screw? What you described it pilot?

 

If it were me I would do the following: check compression to to get it out of the way and off the check list: then I would pull the carbs and open #1 remove the jet body/housing, (do not force it, if it doesn't lift off spray some penetrating oil and let it soak) remember to remove the large brass slotted screw first: when looking in there with a light, there is one passage you need to confirm is open, holding it flat side down, the small passage on the right, move your light to the corner away from you and to the right, look through the passage you should see light, not a lot of it but a pin hole., If it's blocked there it will likely also be blocked in the barrel.

Wash it out, a twist tie from a garbage bags will help,(remove the rapping to just have the wire for about 2") but only use it if you believe it is blocked. Wash the barrel as well, now spray carb clean into each ports where the jet body sits, you will need a fine air gun tube attached to the compressor 90ish lbs. Now carefully blow air though each passage and,,,, make sure it is traveling through not just blowing back at you! Do not blow air at a float.

 

You have of course by this time checked the float valve seat; so reassemble but this time do a bench sink, before re installing them.

 

The heating you speak of at #1 is thermal passage transfer not what we need, it needs to achieve 150- 160 within 3 or 4 minutes without choke.

Patch