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Posted

I spent a good part of yesterday getting the boat ready for the summer. One thing I did was to move the battery selector switch out of the engine compartment to the top side. It was a real pain having to lift the floor to get to the switch because there are always coolers and other things that have to be moved to do so. It is now mounted top side so switching batteries will be very easy.

 

One of the batteries would not charge so had to be replaced. I bought a new battery and got it installed. Then when connecting the leads to the other battery, the "good" one, I noticed that it was cracked. The top vent covers were blown off and it was cracked about half way down on both ends. It was about half full of acid and you could actually see the plates. This was the battery that was working. It was late when I found that so will have to go pick up another battery today.

 

Now my dilemma. When I bought the first battery, I let the guy talk me into buying a dual purpose battery. It is supposed to be good for deep cycle and also for engine starting. Upon doing my research though, I learned that they are OK for smaller boats that just have one battery but not as good for deep cycle as a true deep cycle battery and not as good for starting as a starting battery. I would be better off with one of each. I don't want to remove it though and it's already installed and a pain to get to. So now I have to buy another battery and can't decided whether I would be better off to use the Dual Purpose as the starting battery or the deep cycle battery and then buy either a starting or deep cycle to go with it.

 

I can tell you that I HATE working in that engine compartment. You need to be a contorionist to do anything in there.

 

I just know that I'm ready to get this thing finished and docked. Taking up way to much of my time. Still have to pump out the wintered treated water tanks and etc. and fire the engine up from being winterized.

Posted

It's going to depend on how you plan to use the batteries.

 

A starting battery has lots of plates. All those plates let you get lots of amps but their close packing makes them susceptible to damage from a deep discharge (crystals build up on the plates and when they span the gap they damage the battery). A deep cycle battery has fewer plates, spaced farther apart. That lessens the likelihood of damage if deeply discharged.

 

If your primary use is a day on Lake Erie and having a 2nd battery so you don't get stranded then I'd go with more a starting battery or even another dual purpose. If you're going to be overnighting where you'll be running lights and things overnight without the engine running then a deep cycle is the way to go. Deep cycle is also the way to go for an electric trolling motor.

Posted

Yea, I understand the difference just not sure if the Dual Purpose would actually be best used now for a starting battery or deep cycle. It's a larger battery than what was in it so even though it's dual purpose, it should be fine being used primarily for starting. So, I think I'll buy a dedicated deep cycle for battery two.

Posted

It depends on how the boat is wired.

Is the starting battery wired to only provide power to critical running circuits and the other battery is wired for all of the stuff that can not leave you stranded?

Or are they wired in parallel with the manual switch to select one battery to use and when it gets run down you switch to the other one?

 

Since this new battery is bigger than the old, does this new battery that you bought have the rated CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) of the old one or that the boat needs for reliable starting?

Posted

This boat has two batteries and a selector switch to choose battery one, battery 2 or both. Both batteries are wired to start the motor and run the lights, refrigerator, etc. The ideal way to use it is to switch to the starting battery during times that you are starting and riding around and then switch to the deep cycle battery if you are sitting for long periods of time or overnight. I ended up just being a deep cycle battery. I will use it when overnighting or sitting for long periods and will use the dual purpose battery primarily for starting and running things when running around. No big deal. Two new batteries installed.

 

Fired the boat up for the first time this year. Started in about 10 seconds and sounds great.

 

Flushed the antifreeze out of the water holding talk. Opened the valves to the hot water heater to let it fill before turning it on and wouldn't you know it....hot water heater is now leaking. Not from the hoses, coming from underneath which only means that it is rusted out. Just FANTASTIC.

 

So....either do without the hot water or buy a new water heater. Have to pull it out because I'm not sure what size it is but looks like they run between $275 and $500.00. :mo money:

 

Break Out Another Thousand.

Posted

Got it out and it was all rusted out. Just ordered a new stainless steel one. Wasn't too bad. It's only a 6 gallon tank. A little different from an RV heater because it is a dual type. It has a heat exchanger that heats from the engine and also a 120v element for shore power. New SS one was $343.00. Could have been worse. Now just have to wait for it to get here and then back down into that engine compartment. :(

Posted (edited)

One set up we use on occasion is two Trojan T105 6vdc deep cycle batteries wired in series. That will give you 12vdc 450 AH. and a ton for house bank use. And there's plenty of amps to start an engine even if they are deep cycle. We run this set up with Diesels all the time. For a faster recovery charging we also will use a high amp alternator like a Baldor 130... Most marine engines come with 55amp. alternators, and rather than a 1-2-both switch we use a battery monitor. 450 amphrs is a lot of power.

Edited by Condor
Posted
One set up we use on occasion is two Trojan T105 6vdc deep cycle batteries wired in series. That will give you 12vdc 450 cca. and a ton for house bank use. And there's plenty of amps to start an engine even if they are deep cycle. We run this set up with Diesels all the time. For a faster recovery charging we also will use a high amp alternator like a Baldor 130... Most marine engines come with 55amp. alternators, and rather than a 1-2-both switch we use a battery monitor. 450 amphrs is a lot of power.

 

I should be OK. Both of these batteries have much more CCA and also amphrs than that. One is 650 CCA and the other is 800 CCA. The deep cycle battery is the 650 CCA but a LONG time on the amp hours. Don't remember now but it was very good.

Posted

What flavor are they?? I think I made a mistake by referring to the deep cycle Trojans as cca rather than 450 amp. hrs. There's a difference. I went back and corrected my post...

Posted

I don't remember the brand. Bought them just up the road at a small boat shop. I know that the deep cycle battery was something like 650 amp hours. I don't remember what the dual purpose battery was on amp hours but it was either 800 or 850 cca. Not a terrible price either. $109.95 each. Buying the 2 AWG cable to move the selector switch wasn't cheap though. :(

Posted
LOL....well...it will be docked at Lake Erie and I have fished off it but it's not a fishing boat.

 

Break Out Another Thousand.

 

After you get your batteries sorted out you will need to break out BOAT X 2 for a couple of downriggers and outriggers. :fishin:

Posted
Not a terrible price either. $109.95 each. Buying the 2 AWG cable to move the selector switch wasn't cheap though. :(

 

LOL... They'll get you every time..... We generally use #4 guage welding cable and roll our own. Cut it to the length needed and crimp on the ends.

However it does help a bit if you own a large crimper... :) Much cheaper than marine grade and just as good.

Now that I think about it, I bet Squid could have whipped you up a set??

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