HID Quit

[djh3]

Noticed yesterday when I pulled in front of a store that the headlight was not on. I checked the switch for my HID and it was on.

So now have faring apart and looking at grounds etc. All OHM out ok. When the switch is flipped the light makes a light bluish what looks like attempt to start but goe out. So it has power and looks like it wants to start, but dont.

Sooo how do I know if its a bulb or the XXXXX,00000 volt out put ballast. I tried to get the wife to hold onto the wires for the bulb while I turned it on, but she wouldn't help me. Seriously though I think on the ballast it says something like 23,000v. Dont know if my volt meter would work or not.

I dont want to buy a $35 bulb only to find out the ballast is done. If the ballast is done its almost as cheap to replace the whole works I think.

Thanks gus for any info. Guess I will have to find the halogen to go back in to ride until I get some answers.

[djh3]

OK folks. Pulled the light out and tried to turn it on and nothing. Not even a glimmer. Center of bulb is black. Looks like the old time flash bulbs for a camera, al-a Kodak brownie. My best guess bulb fried. Looks like I can find one for about $12-15 on e-bay.

[RedRider]

I suggest putting a 10 second delay relay on the HID. When you turn on the key, the light turns on. Hit the starter, and the voltage feeding the igniter goes to the threshold of acceptable. Sometimes below. This turns the HID light off and then immediately restarts it. Not good for the longevity of the bulb. In the more expensive HID units, this isn't as much of a problem. The inexpensive units from China (sold by Canadian Customized Cruisers and others) will have this difficulty.

 

FYI - I have a cheap CCC HID. It has lasted several years and many 10s of thousands of miles with the 10 second delay relay. The bulb would last about 1/2 a year before installing the time delay. As an alternative, install a manual on/off switch for the headlight. Just make sure it is off when you start the bike.

 

RR

[djh3]

I have a custom designed (I think Flyinfool helped me out) on off switch with warning light. So its been on a switch since installed. I found a pair of bulbs for decent price and went ahead and ordered it.

[Flyinfool]

You could try calling one of the HID suppliers to see what the correct method of determining if it is the bulb, ballast or both that are bad.

 

I can see the possibility of a bad bulb taking out the ballast, or a bad ballast taking out the bulb.

[djh3]

Yea me did think of that. The ballast being weak and not firing the bulb all the way. Good thing I didn't use my volt meter. I finally saw where it says 600v max. That would have for sure let the magic smoke out. Looks like if it is the ballast a couple bucks will buy me a new one.

[RedRider]

I have a custom designed (I think Flyinfool helped me out)

 

We have identified your problem.

 

RR

[Flyinfool]

We have identified your problem.

 

RR

 

DOH!!!!

 

[djh3]

NAH dont think its the issue. It passed the 60/60/60 rule.

[Motiv]

Where can one get one of these time delay relays?

I will be installing one of these hid units soon.

[Flyinfool]

Where can one get one of these time delay relays?

I will be installing one of these hid units soon.

 

http://retro-solutions.net/product-info.php?HID_Time_Delay_Relay-pid602.html

[djh3]

Well they certainly have came down from the last time I looked at them.

[BratmanXj]

Shoot, I've been looking at the "voltage-delay" relays that don't fire the headlight until you rev up the engine and hit 13.5v, but those are more than double the price. I guess it's time delay then.

[Motiv]

I was thinking about wiring the HID relay from the oil pressure switch signal, in theory the lights go on after you have oil pressue and not when you are cranking. Will this work?

[Flyinfool]

I thought that it is not an oil pressure switch but an oil level switch.

 

This is why under very hard acceleration the oil light can come on as the oil sloshes to the rear of the oil pan.

 

I would hate for the headlight to go out under hard acceleration at night.

 

There was a thread where there was a lot of discussion of possibilities and what would or would not work and why.

[djh3]

Well replacement bulb showed up 4 days early. Bad part is its wrong bulb in box. The one that showed up is a single beam and also has connectors and such for like a 9004 bulb. So its a conversion replacement. Seller has been contacted so waiting an answer.

[Motiv]

I thought that it is not an oil pressure switch but an oil level switch.

 

This is why under very hard acceleration the oil light can come on as the oil sloshes to the rear of the oil pan.

 

I would hate for the headlight to go out under hard acceleration at night.

 

There was a thread where there was a lot of discussion of possibilities and what would or would not work and why.

One would think there needs to be a pressure switch too cause you can have full oil an still loose pressure from a faulty pump.

So does anyone think triggering the HID light relay from the oil pressure signal is a good idea, in theory the engine should be running when the light turns on.

[Flyinfool]

I have my HID triggered by the brake light.

It is pretty hard to get very far without touching one of the brakes. it is set up so that once on it stays on till the ignition is turned off.

I had looked into options of triggering off the side stand switch, charging voltage, a separate manual switch, the neutral light, even spark detection, and of course a simple 10 second delay relay. For me the brake light was the easiest and most reliable choice.

[djh3]

Well this experience is by far the worse I have had on e-bay, and its not even a Chinese seller. I emailed the seller 3 times and never got a response. So I contacted E-bay thru the "return" section. I hate to be a @#@# about it but they got my money, I have wrong part and would like to work something out.

[Flyinfool]

If they do not answer you leave bad feedback, with the new setup that really gets their attention. If you paid thru Pay Pal, start a claim. It will at least freeze the money so they can not get to it. When you take money out of their pocket it gives them more incentive to work it out. Pay Pal almost always sides with the buyer.

[djh3]

I filed a return or some such thing thru e-bay. I am looking in PP and do not see any place to file a "claim". E-bay says I should have a return label by 4/24/15. shoot I have been sitting here waiting on parts so long, I put the OEM bulb back in. I would have put the 80/100w Wagner back in but I'll be danged if I can find it now.

[Flyinfool]

Claims are filed in the Pay Pal "Resolution Center"

[djh3]

Got a message back from seller. They have had several mis filled orders. As such they say they will be refunding. But that means I have to go looking for bulbs again.

So just for my information, if I get a hi/low that is not a bi-xenon it will be the long skinny tube and a halogen bulb somehow attached?. Got to thinking, I know the HID dont like modulators. But if the HI beam is a halogen why couldnt you use a modulator on the HI beam.

[RedRider]

The H4 "dual" beam HID is actually a single bulb with a small actuator in the back. The actuator moves the bulb to change the focal length for high beams. Don't use it with a modulator.

 

RR

[Flyinfool]

There are HIDs that do have the attached Halogen.

Yes the modulator would work on the HI beam part of that type bulb. If you try to modulate the HID half of the bulb you will burn it out quick.

 

But then the question is. IF you go with the type of bulb with the halogen for the HI beam, do you really want to lose at least half of your light when you do switch to HI beam at night. Was the whole purpose of putting in an HID to get more light on the road? When you switch to HI beam is it not because you want maximum light on the road? So your HI beam will output 1/3 to 1/2 of the light that your LOW beam does?. :confused24:

 

I would / did go with the Bi-xenon for maximum light in all conditions. I have been considering putting a modulator on my driving lights.