Need Help synchronizing my Carburetors

[Flyinfool]

Those valves you have are pretty coarse for the adjustment you need.

The restrictions have just a large pin hole. Those ball valves do not really adjust that small.

You may do better with the aquarium valves since they are more like a needle valve and will give a much finer adjustment.

 

Or you could make some restrictions using a piece of brass tubing, about an inch long, fill it with solder, drill a small hole thru the solder plug. Start real small and if the gauge response is to slow open it up a few thousandths at a time till you like how it works.

[Vonwolf]

I tried a 1/8' restrictor with no luck the gauges just kept bouncing so I tried the large valves and as flyinfool pointed out they were a tad bit aggressive, it was basically they were on or off, very little middle ground. I think they got me close, but I still had many undesirable noises, backfire, popping and all so it's off to the pet store maybe they might have something that work

[BlueSky]

Could you use the one gauge that doesn't fluctuate with a manifold and 4 valves to allow you to switch from one carb to the next?

[Brenner]

Let me ask something maybe no one has thought of yet. Vonwolf's guage set requires an inline restrictor as everyone recommends so is it not possible for him to use the restrictor he has going to the boost sensor just for the set up (sync)purposes? Yes it sucks swapping it out from line to line or maybe use it in a gang valve as mentioned earlier? The boost valve is not active during idle (sync) rpm range. Just a thought as it serves the same purpose for the boost valve does it not? Any who just a thought and it gave me the idea of using the spare inline restrictor I have for a guage I might install on my bike in the near future. Good luck.

[Vonwolf]

The restrictors I'm using are 1/8" they're about the smallest I could find and they did very little to stop the bouncing, I'm going to try a valve from a fish tank supply store hopefully they'll have valves that are smaller and easier to tune

[Prairiehammer]

The restrictors I'm using are 1/8" they're about the smallest I could find and they did very little to stop the bouncing, I'm going to try a valve from a fish tank supply store hopefully they'll have valves that are smaller and easier to tune

 

http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=81

 

BTW: to zero each gauge, remove the dial cover and tweek the exposed screw on the dial.

 

http://goldwingdocs.com/images/HowTo/CarbSync/CarbSync02.jpg

[Vonwolf]

I finally found some valves like Prairiehammer posted, I'm in a small town that apparently is not big on aquariums as it took me a long time to find them. I'm glad I did they calmed my needles right down and I was able to sync the carbs well enough to have the bike run pretty good, I'm still getting some backfire through the exhaust when I let up on the gas, but it runs good for how thrashed this bike has been. The motor wasn't pulling very much vacuum probably about half what it should, I couldn't find any vacuum leaks so I'm not really sure what the problem is

[Flyinfool]

The actual vacuum number does not matter that much, it is that they are all the same that is most important. Your idle speed will have a big impact on the actual vacuum number.