jasonm. Posted April 12, 2015 Posted April 12, 2015 I see other posts for the front wheel bearings. I have done it on this bike '87 Royale and other Yamahas MANY years ago but having a brain fart doing it again. The diagram shows a meter clutch(aka speedo drive) and the clutch retainer. I had reused my seal last time because I faintly remember it seemed to just come out when driving the bearing out. Is that retainer a C-clip of some kind stopping me from getting the bearing out ? Or is it simply a washer? I know to use a heat gun to heat the wheel to get the bearing smoothly in. But this removal has me messed up. Thus the above it due to bad memory.
jasonm. Posted April 12, 2015 Author Posted April 12, 2015 (edited) Update- I simply took the speedo drive thingy. with the seal. BUT I CANNOT drive the bearings out this time. Yes I pushed the spacer to the side. But not getting a good hit on the bearing. I know not to hit the spacer from up high. Just hitting bearing... UHG!. Using a hard steel rod approx. 1/2" diameter. SEE UPDATE BELOW Edited April 12, 2015 by jasonm.
jasonm. Posted April 12, 2015 Author Posted April 12, 2015 (edited) FYI--- .... must remove the RIGHT side bearing 1st. Because the center spacer has this. = There is an umbrella washer("spacer flange") on the LEFT side of the center spacer(speedo side). This washer is to keep the spacer from just flopping around when the tire is removed. Thus the right works best for 1st removal. Got them removed. Will heat with heat gun for new install.. Edited April 12, 2015 by jasonm.
dna9656 Posted April 15, 2015 Posted April 15, 2015 (edited) I tried to do my front bearings, couldn't find anything much in the manual about left or right first; got LOTS of help from Marcarl! Great GUY!!! I whacked it a few times and didn't move a thing. To preserve the peace here at home I followed the wife's advice and took it to the man. When I tried the rear bearings the needle bearing was SO FROZEN (corroded) to the wheel I COULD not get it out, I thinned the outer cage, heated it up, no joy. Lucky I got spare wheels...to that to the man too. $20.00 to install, I took the wheel to the shop. Worth every nickle. You might make a contribution to 1st. Gen tech library....The phot below shows what greeted me in the rear wheel, note that 43 or 4 balls in the bearing are not there...the rust, the lack of grease. I'm half ashamed to post the pic; I'm not one to let things like checking the lube out on a vehicle I buy slip on by (arg arg arg) but I sure missed the boat on this one. <!--url{0}-->[/img]</p><p> </p><p> Here <a href=http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/th_IMG_0416.jpg' alt='th_IMG_0416.jpg'> Edited April 16, 2015 by dna9656
jasonm. Posted April 15, 2015 Author Posted April 15, 2015 yes, I'd like to but cannot figure out where it is...? I'll keep looking. YES, the right bearing is the trick, push to spacer over with your stout steel rod and carefully hit while it is forced down applying pressure to the outside. Piece of cake as they say. And always use a heat gun on the wheel to make assembly smoother.
Chaplain Dusty Posted April 19, 2015 Posted April 19, 2015 If you are still having trouble, go to Autozone. I took the wheel and they placed it on the counter. I helped them hold the tire as they used their blind hole bearing puller and popped it right out. No charge! Great folks! :bagpipes-emoticon:Chaplain Dusty:backinmyday:
jasonm. Posted April 20, 2015 Author Posted April 20, 2015 "blind hole" puller...never seen one. Might be something to gently pull it out rather than whack it out. I have seen slide hammer pullers.The trick is the spacer getting shifted to the side. The steel rod just needs to be angled and force used to push the spacer over at the bearing , aka...tilting or cocking it
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