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Posted

Will be hard wiring my new GPS tomorrow and am wondering if the frame for the cassette deck in the fairing would be a good grounding point. Its on a 2nd gen.

Posted

On my bike I added power and ground terminal blocks. The ground block goes direct to the battery negative. The power block is half direct to battery and half switched to only come on with the key.

 

Your bike is now 10 years old and still aging, there are so many posts of electrical issues that end up being ground issues. If it is grounding to a steel frame it will eventually rust and compromise the ground. The higher the amps, the faster it dies.

Posted
On my bike I added power and ground terminal blocks. The ground block goes direct to the battery negative. The power block is half direct to battery and half switched to only come on with the key.

 

Your bike is now 10 years old and still aging, there are so many posts of electrical issues that end up being ground issues. If it is grounding to a steel frame it will eventually rust and compromise the ground. The higher the amps, the faster it dies.

Can you give details on your power block? Where did you tap into for your block, simply a wire for a light? Is the power block switched on by a relay, so everything on that block runs through the relay?

Thanks, Dan

Posted

For my power block, the always hot block is fed direct from the battery thru a 40 Amp MAXI fuse. Each accessory still gets its own fuse from there.

The switched side is fed direct from the battery thru a 30 Amp fuse and a relay. The control side of the relay can be connected to any convenient circuit that comes on and off with the switch. Each accessory still gets its own fuse from there.

This way none of your added accessories are pulling power thru the bikes electrical system other than the charging system. Saves wear and tear on the weak ignition switch.

Posted

Understand, that is what I was thinking, and planning to do. Timely post. I may have room under the seat for this. It will be switched, I want nothing hot all of the time, unless it's a power port, and that would be wired separately. This block, I'm planning to add leds, other small things. I already have a horn and relay, may rewire it through the block and keep it clean.

Dan

Posted (edited)

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/second-generation-venture-tech-talk/85214-kuryakin-3-switch-install.html

 

Am accomplishing something similar. A while back I installed a 3 switch unit on top of my front brake master cylinder. It is wired directly to the battery throught a relay and protected by a 30 amp fuse. Throught that unit I currently run 2 sets of aux lights. Each fused appropriately from the switch. This leaves me with a free switch that I will use for the GPS.

 

Above is a thread I had put up when I installed the 3 switch unit

Edited by Bert2006
Posted
Can you give details on your power block? Where did you tap into for your block, simply a wire for a light? Is the power block switched on by a relay, so everything on that block runs through the relay?

Thanks, Dan

 

I too, incorporated a ground block when I redid the fuse block on the 1990. I connected my ground block (actually a terminal strip with all the screws jumpered together) directly to the negative post of the battery. This allowed for multiple devices to be grounded to the negative post without a bunch of wires attached to the negative post.

I also incorporated an accessory fuse block to relieve the ACC circuit and ignition switch of any accessory loads. The only load on the ACC circuit (and thus on the ignition switch) is the load imposed by the 30 amp relay actuating coil. All the accessories are fused through the new accessory fuse block and the accessory fuse block is fed via a 10 gauge wire from the positive post of the battery via the 30 amp relay.

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