Clutch Upgrade using Skydoc_17 Kit

[Du-Rron]

Been cold lately and I am a panty-waist wuss and don’t like to ride if it is less than 45 so I decided to upgrade the clutch using the @skydoc_17 kit that contains a .070” diaphragm spring, a gasket, and a full friction disk.

 

I ordered the kit on 3-7-15 and it arrived here on 3-11-15 whereupon I dumped the new friction disk in T6 oil to soak till I could get around to working on the bike. Thank you very much @skydoc_17 for the prompt service. I installed the kit on Friday night 3-13-15 with 5952 miles on the bike. I did not have any slipping clutch problems with the factory clutch, but, I expect in the future to be pulling a trailer and I am certainly not losing any weight myself any time soon. Just wanted to head off any problems before they started.

 

I unthreaded the factory wire on the half disk so, maybe, it can be reused in the future. I removed the factory half-friction disk, the factory Belleville washer, the factory flat washer, and the factory .060” diaphragm spring and replaced them with the components in the @skydoc_17 kit that contained; a new full friction disk, and a .070” diaphragm spring. While the basket was empty, I rotated the Clutch Boss containing the “dot” for the pressure plate to align with the “dot-dot” on the primary drive just for convenience during reassembly. Friction plates went in “hole-hole” up and pressure plate went on “dot” up. I was just lucky the primary was already in this position when I opened the cover.

 

OH, NOW I UNDERSTAND:

With the factory setup, the clutch lever would feather the clutch at about half-way pull. This is because from the factory the clutch pak was a “variable depth” setup in that once the pressure plate started to lift off the clutch pak, the Belleville washer would push the last steel disk a few thousands of an inch towards the pressure plate, maintaining semi-clutch-engagement, until the steel disk either reached full travel of the Belleville washer or the steel disk hit the wire. Once that travel was reached, …then… full disengagement started to occur, which allowed feathering the clutch at about the halfway point in lever travel, and gave about 3/4” of lever travel in the feathering range.

 

With the @skydoc_17 kit that replaces the half-friction disk, the flat washer, and the Belleville washer with a full friction disk the clutch pak is no longer “variable depth” and the clutch lever only has a feathering range of about ¼” and full engagement is achieved with the lever approaching the very end …say the last ¾”… of its travel in its normal position away from the handlebar. The clutch lever travel took a little getting used to. It was like I was riding somebody else’s bike. I did not notice much, if any, greater lever pull in strength needed to pull the lever in, versus the factory setup. In other words, the strength needed to pull the lever in, seemed the same as when I was using the factory diaphragm spring.

 

During my test ride, I was abusive with the clutch. Many times at 80MPH I would tap the lever to feather the clutch, or hold it partially disengaged for a one-count (which really built up some revs since I was already doing about 4K rpms) and the clutch always resumed its grab as soon as I let go of the lever. I also scared myself by dumping the clutch in 1st from a slow roll, with a good handful of throttle, and I swear the front end came off the ground.

 

I recommend the @skydoc_17 Clutch Upgrade Kit to anybody that wants a stronger, more bullet proof clutch. It should prove especially effective when the bike is fully loaded (2up with luggage) and pulling a trailer.

 

Mileage

 

Work Started

 

Empty Basket with "Dot-Dot" on primary in UP position and "Dot" on clutch boss in UP position

 

Old Parts Saved For Possible Reuse.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Du-Rron,

Thanks for the kind words about the Clutch Spring Kit I offer in the Classifieds. It looks like you did a first rate install on that clutch. Also that's quite a handsome Venture you have there. I am sure you will have NO issues pulling a trailer this summer.

That was an excellent explanation of the Dot, Dot Dot, alignment of the Pressure Plate and Clutch basket. Some members miss that critical element during the install.

Thanks for letting me help you with this project, Du-Rron.

Earl

[Du-Rron]

Hey Du-Rron,

Thanks for the kind words about the Clutch Spring Kit I offer in the Classifieds. It looks like you did a first rate install on that clutch. Also that's quite a handsome Venture you have there. I am sure you will have NO issues pulling a trailer this summer.

That was an excellent explanation of the Dot, Dot Dot, alignment of the Pressure Plate and Clutch basket. Some members miss that critical element during the install.

Thanks for letting me help you with this project, Du-Rron.

Earl

 

Thank you for thinking up the kit, good pricing, good customer service, good instructions, and fast shipping. I got this from you quicker than I have ever received anything from my dealer. I like my dealer, however like so many of them they do not stock any parts anymore. I went in the other day to have some air added to my tires, they said, "We will have to order that." (Drumroll-ta dum)

[fourbrrl]

Where can I buy this upgraded spring kit ?

 

[RDawson]

@skydoc_17 is the guy, look in member vendors. 

[Squidley]

On 5/13/2021 at 6:39 PM, fourbrrl said:

Where can I buy this upgraded spring kit ?

 

 

[fourbrrl]

just acquired this beautiful bike with 17k miles. I've got the maintanance all caught up with tire (new) all fluids, securing harnesess so no chance of rub thru shorts, etc. The Barnett pressure plate solved my clutch issue ! I had NO IDEA they went to a wave plate type of apply spring ! The Barnett replacement is the clutch pressure plate style I always remembered and dealt with. NOW I get to chase a fuel smell ( non cal emissions). It appears that "Joe Bob" modified the exhaust ( 4 open pipes with turn outs) and "re jetted" the carbs "to match", and it is entirely too fat on fuel ( 68 miles on a full tank to fuel light tripping with fuel slosh ) !!  I became a Mikuni expert restoring my 1980 Kawasaki 1000 LTD. These carbs look to be built like the Kehien carbs like early hondas used. Never had issues with Kehiens unless "tuned"...LOL