Chaharly Posted March 12, 2015 #1 Posted March 12, 2015 Well the fork seals are leaking pretty bad and it likes to bottom out pretty hard. The CLASS system fills up, but then in a short amount of time they will run out. I ordered a Dunlop 404 for the front, progressive springs and new fork seals. I plan to cut the spacers for the progressives down like they are described in the READ ONLY section. I know that they will be just fine without doing this, but I like having to use the CLASS. I always dreamed of owning one of these new, because of all the neat toys so I'd really like to continue using the CLASS system and continuing my illusion of riding a "new" 88 venture! I dont have the tool to install seals, but maybe @Freebird wouldn't mind renting his homemade one out? Any advice or things that I should do once I've installed the progressives would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance guys!!! I'll let you guys know how the installation goes and what I think of the ride afterward!!!
Freebird Posted March 12, 2015 #2 Posted March 12, 2015 I'm not sure what tool you are talking about. I may have it and if so, would certainly let you borrow it.
Marcarl Posted March 12, 2015 #3 Posted March 12, 2015 I think you'll find the CLASS to be redundant for the front, fact is you'll probably disconnect it so that there won't be any air in the front. The CLASS won't dump all the air, so there is always a bit left in the system, and for me that was too much, and I used 1\2 spacers. The homemade toll is a piece of ABS pipe, easily made. I think it's 1.5".
Chaharly Posted March 12, 2015 Author #4 Posted March 12, 2015 I think you'll find the CLASS to be redundant for the front, fact is you'll probably disconnect it so that there won't be any air in the front. The CLASS won't dump all the air, so there is always a bit left in the system, and for me that was too much, and I used 1\2 spacers. The homemade toll is a piece of ABS pipe, easily made. I think it's 1.5". Did you leave the anti dives hooked up?
Venturous Randy Posted March 12, 2015 #5 Posted March 12, 2015 When rebuilding forks, you may want to consider replacing the sleeves and that will help the seals last a lot longer. Randy
Chaharly Posted March 12, 2015 Author #6 Posted March 12, 2015 When rebuilding forks, you may want to consider replacing the sleeves and that will help the seals last a lot longer. Randy I'm not exactly sure what you mean by sleeves? Like the dust boots? Sorry I'm still learning!!!
BlueSky Posted March 12, 2015 #7 Posted March 12, 2015 If the tool you are talking about is the seal driver, when I replaced the seals on my Kawasaki, I carefully measured the diameter and bought a piece of plastic pipe from Home Depot for $3 and cut off a section. Worked perfectly. I haven't had the pleasure of replacing the fork seals on my Venture yet but if they are like the Kawa, I needed an impact wrench to remove the bolt in the bottom that screws into the inner cylinder. Since the cylinder will turn, the quick impact will spin it out. There is a special tool that holds the cylinder. Last time on the Kawa, I used a wooden broom handle to hold it enough to spin the bolt out.
Chaharly Posted March 12, 2015 Author #8 Posted March 12, 2015 If the tool you are talking about is the seal driver, when I replaced the seals on my Kawasaki, I carefully measured the diameter and bought a piece of plastic pipe from Home Depot for $3 and cut off a section. Worked perfectly. I haven't had the pleasure of replacing the fork seals on my Venture yet but if they are like the Kawa, I needed an impact wrench to remove the bolt in the bottom that screws into the inner cylinder. Since the cylinder will turn, the quick impact will spin it out. There is a special tool that holds the cylinder. Last time on the Kawa, I used a wooden broom handle to hold it enough to spin the bolt out. I remember that bolt on my TS400 was tough too. I think I just did the same thing you did and it worked out fine. After I replaced the seal it kept leaking because the inner fork tube was really, really pitted
BlueSky Posted March 12, 2015 #9 Posted March 12, 2015 The first time I replaced the fork seals in my Kawasaki, I used OE parts. They didn't last long. Maybe it had something to do with the way I handled them or installed them. Don't know. The second time I used "All Balls Racing" seals bought off ebay. They are advertised as lasting 3 times longer than OE seals in dynamic testing. Anyway, they were tighter fitting and are lasting longer. So, I recommend them.
Venturous Randy Posted March 13, 2015 #10 Posted March 13, 2015 When replacing fork seals, it is very important that you do not damage them when you are sliding the seal down the tube over the groove that holds the circular clip below the air tube connection. What I found that worked for me was simple scotch tape wrapped around the tube. That little groove has a very sharp edge. Inside the lower fork assemble, there are sleeves or guides that the upper tube moves up and down in. If the sleeves are worn out, it will allow the upper fork tube to wallow around some, affecting the handling and the seal life. Randy
MiCarl Posted March 13, 2015 #11 Posted March 13, 2015 It's the fork bushings Venturous Randy is talking about. They really should be replaced every time the fork is disassembled because disassembly is hard on them. Yamaha calls the upper one "METAL, SLIDE" and the lower "PISTON". I do not like All Balls seals, I find them excessively difficult to drive into place. I had one All Balls set where the dust seals would climb back off the fork and we eventually gave up and went with an OEM dust seal. I finally decided the All Balls seals are more trouble than they are worth and I will no longer install them for my customers. I typically use OEM or K&L Supply seals and require new bushings. The only one that ever leaked was on a badly pitted inner tube - which was not a surprise.
Chaharly Posted March 13, 2015 Author #12 Posted March 13, 2015 It's the fork bushings Venturous Randy is talking about. They really should be replaced every time the fork is disassembled because disassembly is hard on them. Yamaha calls the upper one "METAL, SLIDE" and the lower "PISTON". I do not like All Balls seals, I find them excessively difficult to drive into place. I had one All Balls set where the dust seals would climb back off the fork and we eventually gave up and went with an OEM dust seal. I finally decided the All Balls seals are more trouble than they are worth and I will no longer install them for my customers. I typically use OEM or K&L Supply seals and require new bushings. The only one that ever leaked was on a badly pitted inner tube - which was not a surprise. I dont mind letting it sit for a few days to get parts. Ill replace if they look bad, being jobless I'm kind of on a budget right now.
syscrusher Posted March 14, 2015 #13 Posted March 14, 2015 Just replace both bushings on both forks and forget about it. You won't be able to tell by looking at them. Replace the dust seals too. If you do the work and it turns out those other parts are worn you lose your time and your investment in the seals and fork oil. I did mine four times but finally got smart on the last time. Be smart sooner than I was. My seal replacing experiences: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81910 My nifty seal driver: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81110
Chaharly Posted March 14, 2015 Author #14 Posted March 14, 2015 Just replace both bushings on both forks and forget about it. You won't be able to tell by looking at them. Replace the dust seals too. If you do the work and it turns out those other parts are worn you lose your time and your investment in the seals and fork oil. I did mine four times but finally got smart on the last time. Be smart sooner than I was. My seal replacing experiences: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81910 My nifty seal driver: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81110 Where did you get your bushings?
Brenner Posted March 14, 2015 #15 Posted March 14, 2015 It's interesting to read the recommendations people make out here and the difference in what the factory service manuals read. I suppose lots of it has to do with skill set, abilities and prior experience. I always find it a good read.
syscrusher Posted March 15, 2015 #16 Posted March 15, 2015 Where did you get your bushings? Boats.net It'll add about $115 for two dust seals and two each of both kinds of bushings.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now