Barrycuda Posted March 9, 2015 #1 Posted March 9, 2015 I am asking for some brainstorming, ideas and things to consider regarding this latest dilemma. As some of you know, last year my brother bought my 03 RSV and he even rode it to the IR. Because he is lives in NYC, the bike, which used to be held in my garage is now in storage close by. I go over periodically and start up both his bikes, take me out for a spin, etc. I bought a house w a 2 car garage vs. previously renting w a 3 car garage, hence to storage. Without a battery tender, I go and start the bikes like I mentioned. This winter has had some really cold( florida standards, not national) followed by unusually warmer. The battery has not been charged or keeping charge, so I jump start it with antigravity battery tender. Kicks right over always. Except 2-3 weeks ago, it blew a fuse or two. Nothing would work, no lights, horn, fuel pump clicking , nada. Today, I went to check it out. I replaced 3 fuses. The main one and 2 others. Connect the anti gravity, a bit of fuel gurgle from sitting and whoom... Starts right up and stays running. Not misfiring, no up and down rpm, she's running quite nice. heres the issue... I put her all back together and take her around about 1-1.5 miles. Shifts fine, no stalling, power etc. once I shut her down and try to restart, absolutely nothing, just as if fuses blown. I attach the charger and kicks over instantly. I shut her down and try to start...dead as a door nail. Since I do not have the bike with me and there's no electricity to keep her charging right now, what are some suggestions on what might be the cause? I'm not as suave as some of you electrical gurus and wrenchers but will do what I can. Could it be just a dead battery, a RR, a stator? Please guide and advice in Sesame Street terms so I can try to get to the bottom of it. Once started today she stays running. Immediately after turning off, nothing when trying to start. No lights horn, etc. thank you in advance for any and all suggestions.
Brake Pad Posted March 9, 2015 #2 Posted March 9, 2015 Flashlight and compact mirror is the items you will need to go in the garage but the mirror underneath the bike and see if any of the wiring to the regulator rectifier are brown or burnt, also check the battery connections to make sure they're on tight, you didn't by chance turned off the kill switch right before you try to to start the bike
slowrollwv Posted March 9, 2015 #3 Posted March 9, 2015 Sounds like the battery is toast and it is starting off the jumper.
Barrycuda Posted March 9, 2015 Author #4 Posted March 9, 2015 Flashlight and compact mirror is the items you will need to go in the garage but the mirror underneath the bike and see if any of the wiring to the regulator rectifier are brown or burnt, also check the battery connections to make sure they're on tight, you didn't by chance turned off the kill switch right before you try to to start the bike Big Mike, I realized that and double triple checked the kill switch. It's not that. I will check the RR. slowroll, you might be right. I'm gathering intel. Thanks bud!!
gr8hwfan Posted March 9, 2015 #5 Posted March 9, 2015 I would have to agree with slowroll the battery is toast and just starting off of jumper.Just my .
Oldodge Posted March 9, 2015 #6 Posted March 9, 2015 Another vote for battery failure. I would pull it and have it tested.
KIC Posted March 9, 2015 #7 Posted March 9, 2015 I asked Big Bird and Ernie, they agree on the battery. Bert and the Cookie Monster say that the problem is that it's a 2nd Gen and the only solution is to replace it with a 1st Gen.
Flyinfool Posted March 9, 2015 #8 Posted March 9, 2015 Start by pulling the battery, take it home and charge it fully. Then take the battery in for load testing.
cowpuc Posted March 9, 2015 #10 Posted March 9, 2015 Battery or simply battery connections - maybe got a little corrusion happening under the terminals that attach to the battery. I am curious about the blown fuses in the first place - I suppose that could have happened from maybe hard amp pull from the starter with a low battery condition (never mind me Barry - just thinking out loud here.. Like already mentioned, pull the battery - when doing so always remove the negative cable first and when reinstalling the battery replace the negative last (remind me to show you my ring finger next time I see you to help explain why). When you get the battery home, unless its a gel battery, there should be a way to access the cells (even no maintenance batts can usually be opened) Open it up and check the acid levels - look inside each cell with a flashlight and make sure the acid is at least covering all the plates. Use distilled water to refill if necessary. Stick on a battery charger and see if it will take a charge.. Barry, there are some fairly simple ways to check the bikes charging system using an ohm meter. Rather than explaining it in text, I am attaching a short video. I know its a car system but our bikes are the same principle.. If you dont have an ohm meter, HF sells em really cheap - well under 10 bucks (I think a bought a couple last year for 2.50 with coupon - GREAT add on to the maintenance department on your bike). If I were there, you and I would head over to Felix's RSV, stop and grab a burger cause we are always hungry, pull the batt cover on his bike - get it running off the jumper box - quick check the stator/regulator output with an ohm meter as shown on the short video, find out that all is well with the charging system, remove the negative battery cable and check for corrosion, remove the positive cable and check for corrosion. Haul battery back to your place and pop the caps, check fluid levels, charge it, find out right away that the battery is shot cause it wont take charge . Go pick up Felix a new battery, full charge battery at your house, stop for another burger on way over to install battery, clean terminals and install battery and attach negative side last, cover back on and go riding!! Might take a complete tour of Florida including Key West to know for sure that all is well that crazy Cat's bike but,, by the time we got back we would be able to call him and tell him for sure his bike is ok!!
Flyinfool Posted March 10, 2015 #11 Posted March 10, 2015 Here is how to check the battery and charging system. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/general-tech-library-read-only-/81297-testing-battery-charging.html
Barrycuda Posted March 10, 2015 Author #12 Posted March 10, 2015 awesome tips and info. thanks everyone. back to the lab tomorrow for some good ole batter charging/testing...
MiCarl Posted March 10, 2015 #13 Posted March 10, 2015 My money is on the battery being toast too. There is a little bit of draw from the electronics and it will discharge the battery. A battery will be ruined by even a short period discharged. I would not start the bikes. Treat fuel, park them, pull batteries and take home to put on a tender until riding weather returns. Or at least disconnect the battery so the clock doesn't kill it.
djh3 Posted March 10, 2015 #14 Posted March 10, 2015 +1 or more on battery being toast. It will have to be fully charged before they can test it. Even then you can get it charged up and it hold a charge, but a broken plate inside will short out and its like a dead short and will not turn bike over. Any idea how old the battery is? The least expensive place I found was bohannon battery.com I think under 90 bucks shipped to the door. I would not order a new one until your ready to start ride season. Also if the battery is bad, and you start it off a jumper then run the bike and the battery will not store a charge will draw a very large current draw on the charging system. Which as you can probably guess from all the stator and rr write ups is not a good idea.
M61A1MECH Posted March 10, 2015 #15 Posted March 10, 2015 Barry, Battery is toast, take the volt meter I gave you with you and check the voltage on he battery like Flying Fool said.
Barrycuda Posted March 10, 2015 Author #16 Posted March 10, 2015 Barry, Battery is toast, take the volt meter I gave you with you and check the voltage on he battery like Flying Fool said. Yes sir, I'm on it. And good tip about waiting till riding season. Thanks. Steve K
djh3 Posted March 10, 2015 #17 Posted March 10, 2015 You will get the most out of your warranty that way. Also not good on batteries last I knew to sit once put in service.
jakester Posted March 10, 2015 #19 Posted March 10, 2015 Might just remove the battery cables and hook up the jumper direct to the cables off the battery. then start and run, shut down and try to re start. This will isolate the bikes battery as the problem area, then you can charge and load test. We used to disconnect the battery with the car running,... if it stayed running then we knew the charging system was operational, That is old school medhodology. Bill
djh3 Posted March 11, 2015 #21 Posted March 11, 2015 Jakester, you do that on newer cars with electronic brains and fi and you chance burning up the conmtrollers. I use to do this all the time. But some reading around and I found out it causes spikes in charge system and can kill the brains.
baylensman Posted March 11, 2015 #22 Posted March 11, 2015 Barry, sometimes we have a little too much time and tend to overthink. Its the battery Bro. As to blown fuses, did you get a big fat spark when you hooked up the jump box? Which did you connect last POS or NEG? That could've done it to the fuses. Like everyone else said pull it, fill it charge it then test it.
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