Some (many) Maintanance questions

[Motiv]

I would like to say thanks in advance for your help and apologize if these are repeat inquiries (I did search).

 

To give some history I purchased a 99 RSV that now has 37,000 miles on it late in the summer of 2014, the bike appears to have been well taken care of and shows very well for it's age. The PO has never done or checked the valve clearances but claims he was up on all the fluids using Yamaha products. The bike runs very well.

 

I want to place a parts order and don't want to leave anything out. So far on the list are:

carb bowl gaskets

swing arm seals

valve cover gaskets

crush gaskets for oil pan and rear diff and exhaust.

fork seals (not leaking, preventative?)

 

Questions:

1. Since I'll be in the carbs to check float levels should I replace the diaphragms too or all the rubber bits?

2. Do the head bearings have seals? Doesn't look like it in the parts list.

3. Do they make a shim kit for the valves or do you need a measurement first?

4. What do you folks recommend for the fork oil weight manual says 5 but will 10 help with dive?

5. Should I change the output shaft seal since the swing arm is out and shifter shaft seal or don't mess with them if not leaking?

6. Should I use Yamaha's coolant or will the orange dex cool that I use in all of my vehicles?

http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q654/Pauljewl/20150208_175243_zpsipk4kggl.jpg

Regards, Motiv

[djh3]

I changed my fork oil to 10w. Seems to help on the ride, and front dive. I would say if they are not leaking why change? Valves you kind of need to know whats in it. Sure you can buy a "kit" but youll end up with a bunch you dont need. Measure what you got and only order what you need. Chances are you will only need a couple. Depending on your skills it may take you longer to disassemble and drain radiator than to actually check the valves.

Same goes for rear drive, change the fluid in the diff. If seals arent leaking should be good to go. If brake/clutch fluid is brownish it probably could use a change and flush.

Crush washers on oil pan?? You talking about the one for the drain plug? Some change them regularly. I changed mine once since I have got it. It had 7500 miles and now has 35k. Check the date codes on your tires to make sure they are like not more than 3 yr old I think is the recomended.

[MiCarl]

Wow! Lots of questions.

1. Since I'll be in the carbs to check float levels should I replace the diaphragms too or all the rubber bits?

You don't open the carbs to check float levels. You check the fuel level. I would not open them unless I found the levels off. If I opened them I'd throw new bowl seals in to be safe, but wouldn't willy-nilly replace stuff on a bike that new.

 

2. Do the head bearings have seals? Doesn't look like it in the parts list.

Not 100%sure on the RSV, but typically there is a dust seal on the lower bearing. If you're going in I'd put in a new set and pack them with a high impact grease rather than the lithium soap grease Yamaha specifies.

 

3. Do they make a shim kit for the valves or do you need a measurement first?

There is not a shim kit sold retail - it would be a very pricey thing due to all the possible combinations it would need. I do believe there is some sort of kit floating around the membership but it won't necessarily have everything you might need.

 

4. What do you folks recommend for the fork oil weight manual says 5 but will 10 help with dive?

Going up in weight increases damping, not spring rate. It'll make the ride harsh but not do a lot for dive. Consider progressive fork springs.

 

5. Should I change the output shaft seal since the swing arm is out and shifter shaft seal or don't mess with them if not leaking?

This motorcycle is practically brand new. I wouldn't touch them.

 

6. Should I use Yamaha's coolant or will the orange dex cool that I use in all of my vehicles?

You want to use a silicate free coolant, not sure if DEX-COOL meets that. Any motorcycle specific coolant will be silicate free. If you get Yamaha brand you pay a premium for the tuning fork label on the bottle.

[Du-Rron]

Don't use DeXCool. Use a green coolant. I used Hyundai Long Life Antifreeze. Comes in a concentrate and is $22.00 at my Hyundai dealer.

 

Crush washers

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/second-generation-venture-tech-talk/95817-crush-washers.html

[Freebird]

carb bowl gaskets

 

You may not need them but it sure wouldn't hurt.

 

swing arm seals

 

Why? Are they leaking?

 

valve cover gaskets

 

Yep.

 

crush gaskets for oil pan and rear diff and exhaust.

 

Like already mentioned. Some feel that they must be changed every time. I never changed them and never had a leak.

 

fork seals (not leaking, preventative?)

 

I wouldn't touch them. I don't think I've seen any needing changed on a second gen yet.

 

Questions:

1. Since I'll be in the carbs to check float levels should I replace the diaphragms too or all the rubber bits?

 

I would certainly remove the bowls to check the floats. I don't think I've ever seen any on a second gen that were set correctly from the factory. Pulling the bowls is the most accurate way to check and set them. I seriously doubt that the diaphragms or any rubber bits need changing.

 

2. Do the head bearings have seals? Doesn't look like it in the parts list.

 

They do not have seals. Most are underdressed from the factory. I heard a Yamaha service manage say that there was no reason to grease them because most of them are worn out and need replacing my 50,000 miles anyway. I think that was a dumb statement. The reason they need replacing by 50,000 miles is because they are usually not greased adequately.

 

3. Do they make a shim kit for the valves or do you need a measurement first?

 

I agree with MiCarl. Find out if you need any first and then just get what you need.

 

4. What do you folks recommend for the fork oil weight manual says 5 but will 10 help with dive?

 

I think that 10 weight is a good choice. I think that is what I used after i installed the Sonic Springs. I do NOT recommend the Progressive Springs for the second gen. Unless they have changed, the ones they sell for the Second Gen are the same ones that they make for the older Royal Stars which are a higher bike. Sonic Springs makes one specifically for the RSV and it is a stiffer rate than the Progressives. Fantastic spring.

 

5. Should I change the output shaft seal since the swing arm is out and shifter shaft seal or don't mess with them if not leaking?

 

Don't mess with them.

 

6. Should I use Yamaha's coolant or will the orange dex cool that I use in all of my vehicles?

 

As already said, any non-silica antifreeze will work. Many now are non-silica because a lot of cars require that also. Just look on the bottle. I think that the last time I changed it i used a Honda brand pre-mix that I got at the local auto parts store.

[yamagrl]

...just saying... is that pizza on top of those pizza boxes?

 

 

I would like to say thanks in advance for your help and apologize if these are repeat inquiries (I did search).

 

To give some history I purchased a 99 RSV that now has 37,000 miles on it late in the summer of 2014, the bike appears to have been well taken care of and shows very well for it's age. The PO has never done or checked the valve clearances but claims he was up on all the fluids using Yamaha products. The bike runs very well.

 

I want to place a parts order and don't want to leave anything out. So far on the list are:

carb bowl gaskets

swing arm seals

valve cover gaskets

crush gaskets for oil pan and rear diff and exhaust.

fork seals (not leaking, preventative?)

 

Questions:

1. Since I'll be in the carbs to check float levels should I replace the diaphragms too or all the rubber bits?

2. Do the head bearings have seals? Doesn't look like it in the parts list.

3. Do they make a shim kit for the valves or do you need a measurement first?

4. What do you folks recommend for the fork oil weight manual says 5 but will 10 help with dive?

5. Should I change the output shaft seal since the swing arm is out and shifter shaft seal or don't mess with them if not leaking?

6. Should I use Yamaha's coolant or will the orange dex cool that I use in all of my vehicles?

http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q654/Pauljewl/20150208_175243_zpsipk4kggl.jpg

Regards, Motiv

[MiCarl]

I heard a Yamaha service manage say that there was no reason to grease them because most of them are worn out and need replacing my 50,000 miles anyway. I think that was a dumb statement. The reason they need replacing by 50,000 miles is because they are usually not greased adequately.

I recommend not lubing head bearings too. Here is why:

 

The labor involved to replace is the same as to lube them. In the scheme of things the bearings themselves are cheap. In school they taught us to replace when we lube for that reason - the incremental cost for new is small.

 

For that reason I recommend to my customers they not lube, and just replace when there is a problem. Same with swing arm bearings.

 

I haven't looked at the RSV service manual, but Yamaha typically recommends lithium soap based grease (general purpose) for head bearings. This type of grease will flow. That is fine in something like a wheel bearing that spins and redistributes it around. The problem on the steering head is they don't spin and the grease eventually works out of contact area - the exact same issue with drive shaft splines. That's why I use the moly grease (high impact) in steering bearings - it tends to stay put and you don't have to always be re-lubing them.

Edited February 21, 2015 by MiCarl

[bongobobny]

Just a quick comment on the age of the bike, it IS 16 years old! Rubber parts can go bad. Time has come for all of us to start thinking about 2nd gens as old...

[RedRider]

If that picture is of your sled in current state of dress, you have the hard part taken care of to service the steering head bearings. Take them apart, inspect (likely just fine), regrease with Moly60, and set them per the manual. While you have it apart, replace the springs (again, you have the hard part done with removing the inner faring). If you are having a dealer/shop do the fork work, replace the seals (Yamaha OEM are best) as they will get damaged when disassembled. I bumped my fork oil up to 15W, but then, I do carry a bit of extra weight on mine - mostly on the driver's seat).

 

RR

[MiCarl]

This motorcycle is practically brand new. I wouldn't touch them.

 

When I posted I thought it said '09. My bad.

 

Still, the internal stuff should be just fine so long as you don't disassemble. At that age I'd definitely do float bowl o-rings if I opened the bowls.

[pofarm]

There is a retail shim kit available, but it is pricey and you will end up with a bunch of shims you don't need. The kit is made by Hot Cams. One of the shops here charges $15 each to buy outright or $7 each if he changes them and keeps the old shims. Best bet is to find out what you need and buy only those shims.

[Motiv]

I was thinking of replacing the output shaft seal since I will be right there lubing the splines. If it's not leaking I'll leave it alone.

 

The fork seals do not leak but I was going to pull them apart to polish the lower legs, they are very discolored. this would also be a good time to inspect all the parts.

 

The head bearing need tightening at least but there is no notchy feeling. My intention was to clean, inspect and re-lube the bearings with molly paste. I would replace them if there is evidence of wear, I do agree it is just as easy to drop new ones in but I always replace the bearings and races as a set therefore it gets more involved to remove and replace the races.

 

The swing arm is nice and tight side to side and free up and down, again just preventative lubing of swing arm bearings and suspension links. I think the seals for the swing arm may get damaged from the removal process. I will also be replacing a leaky shock. I assume the y-pipes need to be removed to remove the swing arm bolts?

 

I scored 4 intake boots from ebay for $25 so the cracked ones will have to go, since the carbs will be off Don suggested checking the floats, I have not looked up the procedure yet but I assumed the floats will have to be measured the bike is 16 years old and that ethanol is destructive.

You guys know the critters best so I have no idea how the rubber parts hold up. As mentioned the bike ran well, are there plugs of some sort that need to be removed to sync the carbs?

 

All fluids and filters will be replaced.

 

Here is the sketchy part, I bought a set of wheels off a 08 rsv mainly for the discs and I do need to replace my current tires, it was cheaper to buy the whole wheels they only have 1500 miles on them but the tires are from 2008, I am not an aggressive rider they hold air fine but the rubber is 7 years old. Opinions welcome.

 

No, those are boxes of tile I have not gotten around to lay in the basement, But now I want pizza though.

 

Thank you for all of your input!

Regards, Motiv

Edited February 22, 2015 by Motiv
misspelling

[vzuden]

I think the seals for the swing arm may get damaged from the removal process. I will also be replacing a leaky shock. I assume the y-pipes need to be removed to remove the swing arm bolts?

 

it's been a few years since a had one of these swing arms out to pack the bearings but I know I didnt need seals. I am pretty sure if wasn't necessary to remove the y-pipes

[MiCarl]

Yamaha does not provide a float height for you to measure. They provide a fuel level you check with a clear tube on the drain nipple. If the level is in spec there is no need to remove the float bowls.

[Freebird]

Yamaha absolutely provides a float height to measure. It is right in the service manual and not hard to do. Much better than the tube method in my opinion. This may not be true for the first gen but no doubt on the second gen.

[Freebird]

Here is a very good write up by V7Goose on setting the float levels. I've done this myself and it is not difficult.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/24246-set-float-levels-quicksilver.html

[djh3]

I would have to find the thred on DOT tire codes. But seems to me its like 3 maybe 4yrs on tires. And the Avons seem to have problems at the bead area off and on.

My thoughts on the steering head is if its not notchy they are more than likley ok. But being you got it where it is in teardown, the bearings are maybe what 10 to 14 bucks? Put some new ones in and lube them with good grease and youll never have an issue there to worry about.