ice89vr Posted February 4, 2015 #1 Posted February 4, 2015 So I just bought an 89 vr for 1100 that has a few issues. The first one I tackled was an e4 error. After following the steps to repair the solder joints in the controller and reinstalling I now have an e1 code and the compressor is running all the time. It sounds like it is pumping and releasing the air. There wouldn't happen to be any veteran vr owners in North western PA that would want to come help me get it ready for spring. I have beer lol.
Marcarl Posted February 4, 2015 #2 Posted February 4, 2015 I would hazard a guess that you need to re-solder again, you may not have done the good job you first figured you did. Try that first, and then make sure all the connectors at the back are clean and tight.
paysaw Posted February 4, 2015 #3 Posted February 4, 2015 What ever Carl said...You might have missed a connection.
Venturous Randy Posted February 4, 2015 #4 Posted February 4, 2015 Make sure when you solder something that you don't allow the solder to run into another circuit. That sounds to me like what has happened. RandyA
MiCarl Posted February 4, 2015 #5 Posted February 4, 2015 Make sure when you solder something that you don't allow the solder to run into another circuit. That sounds to me like what has happened. RandyA I have to concur. The pump shouldn't run unless you push buttons on the control - there is no external input to start it. The controller doesn't have any sort of memory. When it powers up it "assumes" the pressures are correct unless you do something to change them. The pump is vented when the controller isn't trying to inflate a shock. This is why you hear the air escaping. If the controller were trying to pressurize the system it would close the vent - the 2nd hint that you've shorted something.
ice89vr Posted February 4, 2015 Author #6 Posted February 4, 2015 Thanks for the replys, thought maybe that would be the case, since my soldering skills and tools aren't the greatest. Will try that today. Next problem is how do I tell what the general warning light is trying to warn me about?
Neil86 Posted February 4, 2015 #7 Posted February 4, 2015 Are you referring to the Computer Monitring System on the dash?
MiCarl Posted February 4, 2015 #8 Posted February 4, 2015 Next problem is how do I tell what the general warning light is trying to warn me about? You mean the red one? There should be an icon in the CMS (The 8 box display below the light) to indicate the reason. The top left icon is the side stand indicator. The side stand icon and light come on if the stand is down.
ice89vr Posted February 4, 2015 Author #9 Posted February 4, 2015 Yes the computer monitoring system. The only other light that is on is the battery light. I know the battery is weak.
Freebird Posted February 4, 2015 #10 Posted February 4, 2015 The battery may be weak but the light is actually sensing the electrolyte level. If it is low the light will be on. The other possibility is that somebody put a batter on it that has no hole for the probe. In that case, there is a fix involving a resistor. Details are posted in the Tech Library area.
ice89vr Posted February 5, 2015 Author #11 Posted February 5, 2015 Make sure when you solder something that you don't allow the solder to run into another circuit. That sounds to me like what has happened. RandyA Thanks for the advice, you were correct. After taking it apart and inspecting it there was one stray wisp of solder that crossed. Now the controller is functioning properly. Will the ride height change noticeably when I set it. The compressor runs and the psi changes but the bike doesn't move nor does there seem to be much bounce in the suspension.
MiCarl Posted February 5, 2015 #12 Posted February 5, 2015 The air isn't really to change the ride height, it changes the spring rate. Once you have enough spring and air to fully extend the shock it won't rise not matter how much air you put in. Mine does not have stock springs in the front. Whatever is in there (definitely not Progressive) is stiff enough that the forks are fully extended with no air pressure. I've never pressurized them at all. I suspect the rear has a progressive spring, mine seems to sit higher than a stock bike and there is a progressive sticker on the trailer hitch. Air will raise it a bit (maybe 1/4") up to about 40PSI, then it's maxed out. I can tell you that 2 up, heavy (over the bike capacity) I run it at about 55psi. For just me (240lbs) I run at about 40. Unless you're really large you probably won't notice sag from your weight. I doubt if mine settles an inch when I've got it set the way I like it. BTW, it should not bounce, the damping is to prevent that. The damping adjustment knob is above your left heel. 1 is least damping, 4 is most. You want to turn it up to where it's not bouncy.
syscrusher Posted February 5, 2015 #13 Posted February 5, 2015 The only thing I didn't see mentioned here is that it's been reported that the front shouldn't be overfilled so I try to keep my fork pressure down below 20 or so. I had a bunch of trouble getting fork seals in that sealed the air/oil and I don't want to risk it.
Marcarl Posted February 5, 2015 #14 Posted February 5, 2015 On my 85,, when I still had it, air in the front didn't make a difference in height after I installed the progressives, but it did stiffen them up. On the rear though, as I pumped air into the shock the back would rise, and then when my wife and I both got on the rear would settle down again. I had stock shock for rear gear.
KIC Posted February 5, 2015 #15 Posted February 5, 2015 Also, if the red light is flashing, that will occur if you are down on gas. It will eventually go to solid red.
videoarizona Posted February 5, 2015 #16 Posted February 5, 2015 I'm 220 pounds..and when riding one up...I leave the suspension on "auto" and "low" setting. Dampening is set on "2". Ride seems firm up front and just right in rear. BTW, my rear raises when I put the setting on "high". I read on this site that raising the suspension to the "high" setting raises the rear to help make putting the 800 pound bike on the center stand easier. It does....though it's still hard for me to do by myself. david
BlueSky Posted February 5, 2015 #17 Posted February 5, 2015 Isn't one reason for the air pressure to help prevent the shock oil from foaming on rough textured roads?
Prairiehammer Posted February 6, 2015 #18 Posted February 6, 2015 Isn't one reason for the air pressure to help prevent the shock oil from foaming on rough textured roads? The CLASS air is in a different bladder/section of the shock. The stock shock is an air assisted deCarbon shock absorber. deCarbon shocks are nitrogen charged, with the intent to prevent oil foaming. The CLASS air does not affect the oil or foaming.
ice89vr Posted February 7, 2015 Author #19 Posted February 7, 2015 Thanks again for all the help. Class system is working like a charm, rear is holding at 27 lbs after a few days of sub freezing temps. I am not sure what to make of the front. They look like they are slightly newer and have racetech stickers on them. As for the battery warning light I have been procrastinating because it looks like someone did a hack job on the wiring and I don't want to screw something up because it does currently run.
MiCarl Posted February 7, 2015 #20 Posted February 7, 2015 ... it looks like someone did a hack job on the wiring and I don't want to screw something up because it does currently run. If you don't take care of that at home someday you'll be taking care of it 100 miles from home. Most likely in the rain.
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