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Posted

If you add a piece of steel screening to the "underside" of your repair project it also provides much more needed strength. Cut a piece of steel, (not plastic) screen that overlaps the break at least one inch on each side and ends. Mix up a two part ABS plastic epoxy (found at Lowes/ Home Depot) and apply a generous amount (to underside of repair) along the crack and out ward at least an inch on both sides & ends of the crack/ break. Working fast, while the two apart epoxy /mixture is still in its pliable state, align the piece of screen "centered" over the crack overlaying it one inch on both sides/ends of the crack and push the screen down into the plastic epoxy mixture. Use a tongue depressor (or like), and smooth the ABS epoxy over the screen as the epoxy squeezes out threw the screen. Once the epoxy is set up, I always mix and apply another "overcoat" which provides more strength and allows me to smoothe the repair out even more so and eliminates excessive sanding. The top/outside of the repair can be sanded and painted to match surrounding as was before the break occurred.

Posted

Interesting information - thanks for posting it. But in reality, many ABS repairs are MUCH more simple.

 

This has been discussed in numerous threads here over the years, so I won't go into too much detail, but if the break is a clean break and no pieces are missing, simply using an ABS solvent, such as a plumbing pipe solvent, will chemically weld the pieces back together and make a repair that is 100% as strong as the original plastic. In many cases, this is even possible with such precision and minimal damage to the original surface that you may not even feel the need for paint repair.

Goose

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