Do I Need This?

[Torpedo]

I picked up an '89 today and, thanks to the information found on these boards, got it running (first time in four years, I'm told). I have a broken clutch switch. With the wires shorted, it fired right up. I rode it around the block with no ill effects so obviously I don't need a clutch switch to make the bike run.

 

My question is: What else can I ditch, bypass, or remove and have the bike still run?

 

For instance, when I remove the gauge cluster, will there be some mysterious safety lock-out system that will shut me down? My goal is to get down to the absolute bare essentials and still be able to ride the thing.

 

Wait, two questions. Is there anything on this bike that has any value or can components go straight into the recycle bin?

 

Thanks,

Brett

Edited January 25, 2015 by Torpedo
I'm an idiot

[BlueSky]

Now you are in the wrong forum. An 89 is a 1st gen. These bikes are getting so old and parts are getting hard to find. So, most anything you want to get rid of could be a treasure to one of us.

[Eck]

You are now in the CORRECT forum... I moved it for you so no need to repost it. I also deleted your other (duplicate) thread too.

 

I can not answer any of your questions for I know very little about the 1st gen bikes.

 

Eck

[Torpedo]

BlueSky, thanks, I'll post in Classified.

 

Eck, thanks for fixing my mistakes. I too know very little about the 1st gen bikes (like which gen they come from).

 

Brett

[syscrusher]

So now which parts were thinking about sending to me?

 

Could you post some photos of those unneeded parts so I can see if they might be anything that I need?

[Flyinfool]

The clutch switch is used to cancle the cruise control if you pull in the clutch, AND is part of a safety circuit that will not allow the bike to start in gear with the clutch engaged. You can live without the cruise. But if you ever accidentally bump the bike into gear (or if someone else did while it was parked) and hit the start button you will wish that the clutch switch was still working.

 

As for parts, Are you building a rat bike out of it? Progress pictures please?

As mentioned above. even parts that are not in perfect condition may have resale value to one of us that has been hunting for that part.

[Torpedo]

Syscrushr - I was going to send you the tires as I know from experience how tires wear from round to rectangular when riding the endless straights in the middle of the country but I see from your map you get to the twisty parts so instead I am sending the rear chrome/plastic piece, the RH mirror, and the front fender. Enjoy.

 

Flyinfool - I am building an apocacycle (yeah, that's a word). Here is the foundation:

 

Edited January 25, 2015 by Freebird

[Freebird]

I edited this post to remove the "for sale" part. Ads are not allowed in the forums.

[Flyinfool]

Cool

We still need progress Pics. We all love pics, especially of something different.

I've never seen an apocacycle in person.

[Torpedo]

I've never seen an apocacycle in person either but I've seen pictures and can grasp the gist.

 

Progress so far:

 

And spare parts:

 

The tip-over sensor messed me up for a minute until I discovered that, like the clutch lock-out switch, I can simply unplug it and throw it away. The only thing I removed that caused a not-run condition was some Hazard Lighting Module; plugged that back in and all's well.

 

How much wire is on this thing anyway? Removing the now-dead wires and then rerouting the 'good' wires is the next, tedious step. Anyway, pretty happy with the progress so far (it still runs).

[BlueSky]

I see a lot of money in the back of your truck! The side panels looked like they still had good vents. Those things are hard to find. All of the plastic is valuable stuff. Your bike is the same color as mine!!

[pofarm]

Torpedo, I sent you a pm.

[Torpedo]

Nearly every piece of plastic is damaged, the right side cover is missing. If someone were desperate, I could maybe repair whichever piece they need but it would still be needing paint.

 

You're welcome to any of the vents I do have.

[syscrusher]

If you're serious about sending me the front fender I can use it because the one I have is cracked where the mount is. I repaired it but it may not hold. If those parts are really annoying you I would also let you send me the fake gas tank cover. Let me know how much it would cost you to send that stuff to Omaha and I'll pay your shipping. Otherwise, as someone else said, you can also sell that stuff for good money but it's your choice. Just let me know.

 

I am not expert but there are wiring diagrams in the 1st gen Tech Library section. There is a module, I think in the gauge console, that the signals and a lot of the operating electricals are processed through. You will likely want to keep it or figure out a way to work around it.

 

The second photo of the bike certainly does look like it's been through an apocalypse. I couldn't see your engine covers very well but if they're too shiny you may want to swap some of yours for mine since mine already have that post-apocalyptic look. It could save you a lot of extra work. Just let me know.

[Torpedo]

If you're serious about sending me the front fender...

 

There is a module, I think in the gauge console, that the signals and a lot of the operating electricals are processed through. You will likely want to keep it or figure out a way to work around it.

 

I couldn't see your engine covers very well but if they're too shiny you may want to swap some of yours for mine since mine already have that post-apocalyptic look.

 

How did I miss the tank cover? My ESP needs a tune up. Good call on the fender, it is one of the least-worst pieces. PM sent.

 

I think I found the module of which you speak, marked 'HAZARD.' I want to thank you for that, exactly the information I was looking for when I started this thread.

 

As mentioned previously, I need for this to be a runner, at least through September. It doesn't have to run far, just fast. If you have an Essential part on your bike that is worn or damaged, I would be happy to inspect/measure/photograph my counter-part and, if you find it superior to yours, swap. For example, I understand rear brake rotors are hard to come by and since "brake" is the nemesis of "fast," I would gladly swap a fat, true rotor for a skinny, warped rotor. (Note: I have yet to measure the rotors, they may suck, this is just an example).

 

I'll get some detail shots of covers, guards, and whatnot so you can determine if they are 'better' than yours.

 

Brett

Edited January 26, 2015 by Torpedo

[Torpedo]

Wait, two questions. Is there anything on this bike that has any value or can components go straight into the recycle bin?

 

When I said 'value,' I did not mean monetary. For instance, many of you have children. Some of you may 'value' your children but they have no monetary value. Like children, these parts hold no value for me, monetary or otherwise.

 

It is always sad when a motorcycle dies, even from old age of natural causes. This bike was registered for 21 years, racked-up over 100,000 miles (so fast, it spun the speedo needle right off the shaft at 100,457), shows no 'crash' damage, and was obviously loved. That it can now breathe new life into those bikes still carrying our banner on the open road is a blessing.

 

I am into this project for very little money even counting the $12 spent here. Remember, this thing did not run two days ago, hadn't run in at least four years; it was you guys who pointed me towards the clutch switch, it was you guys who got it running for me. Also, I have already recouped $0.11 (found a penny in the trunk and a dime on the engine cases). I'm not looking to 'sell' these parts; if you can use them, you can have them.

 

I would post a parts list in Pay It Forward but I am in no position to be paying shipping for y'all. I can't post in Classifieds because I have poor computer skills. Let's instead talk parts through PM and talk here instead about what else can be removed. For instance, those little doohickies at the bottom of the fork legs; can I remove them or will they leak fork oil? I'm thinkin' they would make cool housings for black-out running lights.

 

And just for the record, I do not believe the apocalypse is coming anytime soon.

 

Brett

Edited January 26, 2015 by Torpedo

[flyday58]

It's a messed-up world we live in when I can't hock my kids for what I've spent on them because they don't have any monetary value. Shucks.

:mo money:

[Flyinfool]

Those dohickys on the bottom of the forks are your electronic anti dive moduals. If you remove them the fork oil will come out at a very high velocity. There is a member on here, Skydoc_17 that sells a block off plate so that you can remove them, the block off plate can be drilled and tapped to use as a mounting point for some running lights.

[Torpedo]

Flyinfool - thank you for that, you saved me from making a huge mess.

 

I need to settle on a riding position before I move the electrics. I'm told to expect 2" to 4" of sand over hard-pack so I am leaning towards "upright." Any opinions?

 

[syscrusher]

I hope this works right. Here's a link to the 1st Gen Tech Library in case you had trouble finding it.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forum13/

 

This is the wiring diagram for your year:

http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/88-89%20Yamaha%20Venture%20DU%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20D.pdf

 

Service manual is here:

Venture Manuals

 

If you don't need any signals then you may not need the part I was talking about.

Unless it has been relocated to above the airbox then the igniter (TCI) part is on the left side above the front cylinder.

This must be retained and maybe replaced for your model year.

Here's a thread that links several other threads above relocating it and help you find which it is:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/first-generation-venture-tech-talk/89381-removing-tci-help-post868797.html#post868797

 

I found the last of those four to be the most revealing since there's photos in it.

[videoarizona]

Brett,

 

Riding position:

 

If you are riding cross-country...as in dirt, trails, Baja...etc., Suggest a position between the two pics. Look at enduro type bikes. You will need to be on your feet a lot, so you need to be able to shift gears and weight and steer while up on the pegs. Puc and others have ridden dirt far more than I have....so I bet they will chip in. But my best guess would be more upright than normal....but not as high as what you show in 2nd picture...

 

If you are riding Baja type stuff, I would re-think about dropping the anti-dive on the front forks. Even without the electric part working - they can still be adjusted and help...I think by keeping those and adding progressive springs, you may have the best of both worlds. But I'm not an expert by any means...just thinking out loud here.

 

Edited January 27, 2015 by videoarizona
add picture

[Torpedo]

UPDATE: I need to rebuild the carbs; just no getting around it.

 

1. Where is the cheapest place to buy rebuild kits?

2. Where is the cheapest place to buy slide diaphragms?

3. If I get just the rubber diaphragms off e-bay (as opposed to complete slide assemblies), how do I get the new rubbers on the old slides?

 

I need to order these parts ASAP. Thanks for your continued support.

 

Brett

[GaryZ]

On my '85 I have removed enough stuff to make a very noticeable difference compared to my '92;

- removed CB control panel and transceiver. I could pull out the wiring.

- removed the CLASS controller and pump. I mounted air gauges and air valves and use a small air pump to adjust suspension.

- removed the kickstand switch (a safety device)

 

All of the intercom mounts, controls and wiring could be removed.

Cruise control and wiring could be removed.

[GaryZ]

Flyinfool - thank you for that, you saved me from making a huge mess.

 

I need to settle on a riding position before I move the electrics. I'm told to expect 2" to 4" of sand over hard-pack so I am leaning towards "upright." Any opinions?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96703[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]96704[/ATTACH]

 

I have rode my ZX11 Ninja in sand and gravel. The low and narrow handle bars that are standard on sport bikes make this type of riding very difficult. Both of your pictures show somewhat narrow handle bars. I suggest wider bars for more leverage. I have 30" dirt bike bars on my ZX11 Adventure and they work really well. With your feet under your hips you will be able to lift your bottom easier when needed.

[Torpedo]

Here is the final word on handle bars:

 

I would would like to see the ZX-11 Adventure please.