Friction Zone

[captdrac]

Hey guys, I need your help and/or comment about getting more friction zone from my 07 RSV. I'm doing maintenance (valve adjust, fork oil change, and clutch replacement) & since I need new plates (I have the clutch spring upgrade) from 2 up +trailer pulling, I'm looking for a way to give me more friction zone. I use my cycle to practice and demo MSF slow skills demos & the zone on my cycle is at the very end and less than an inch. Would a Barnett clutch basket give me more friction zone? Are there any other adjustments or devices I can use? Any help is as always appreciated.

[djh3]

My thoughts are no. It will probably make it stiffer to pull. But engagement probably is what it is. The clutch is hyd I think the engagement zone is going to be where it is.

Hopefully someone else can help on this that has changed the clutch stuff can help out.

[Du-Rron]

If you have never done it, now is the time to rebuild the master and slave clutch cylinders and use nothing but DOT4 fluid, -from a brand new container- to refill. Rubber hydraulic hoses swell and contract just a little, during use, and more as they age. May want to consider replacing these with the factory clutch hose or upgrading to teflon steel braided hose.

[MiCarl]

Du-Rron: What you described is the way to correct the behavior capdrac is trying to create. A well functioning clutch will disengage in the first inch of lever travel.

 

Captdrac: I can think of some ways to move the friction zone closer to the bar and even widen it. Problem is, most of them could cause issues in normal riding. Couple thoughts for you though: 1) The skydoc kit will narrow the friction zone a bit. If you've done that you might consider putting the narrow friction disk back in. 2) You should be able to move the friction zone closer to the bar by reshaping the lever a bit (I'd get a spare lever for this).

[RedRider]

The only adjustment I have seen for the clutch friction zone has been with doing the Freebird mod. This is a mod where the inner 1/2 spring and 1/2 friction plate is replaced with a full friction plate. This mod makes the friction zone smaller and moves it out to the end of travel. The opposite of what you are looking for. If you have (or a previous owner has) done this modification, you should find some relief by reversing back to stock configuration.

 

The Barnett setup will not change the friction zone, however, it will be the best spring upgrade you can do. There are standard and heavy duty springs available for the Barnett. As long as you have a good 4mm ball end Allen wrench, they are easy to change. Standard for MSF class, HD for 2up+trailer trips. Put the bike on the sidestand, you don't even need to drain the oil. Might want to have an extra clutch cover gasket handy in case you rip one.

 

RR

[captdrac]

That also was my second choice. I think it'll become my first. When changing to braided steel hoses on my Honda Shadow, the brakes became more sensitive. I change both brake and clutch w/ dot 4 fluid every spring so changing the hose may be a good upgrade.

[captdrac]

Thank for the advice and help. The Barnett set up seem to be about tension over friction adjustment. I like the feel even during slow skills practice. Just looking for more zone. Back to 1/2 plate it is.

[Seaking]

I also teach the Advance Riders course and use my RSV to demo the various slow ride manouvers, so I know where you're coming from. I had burnt out my OEM clutch a couple of times doing demos and had to get towed home (nothing like sitting in 1st gear with the clutch out and nothing happening..

 

I had tried the 1/2 plate upgrade system many speak of here, but didn't like where it left the lever in the friction zone (and ended up wearing that one out too after a while..it's a great upgrade but not for my needs.)

 

I then did the full Barnet heavy duty clutch upgrade and its like night and day.. The friction is always where you left it, easy to re-engage.. Doing the slow ride manouver demos all day is easy now.. Yes, it's a heavier pull on the lever but if you're stong enough to toss this bike around from floor board to floor board at walking speed, you really don't notice it.. much..

 

To prolong its life, I change out and flush out the DOT4 on a frequent basis during the heavier training period. Every once in a while I'll also remove the steel plates and give them a cleaning to take the shine off.. After 6 years of doing these courses, I have yet to burn out the clutch or have to replace any of the plates on this Barnet system.

 

As far making adjustments for the lever itself, I don't think there is one.. The Barnet system leaves the friction zone closer to the grips than the 1/2 plate upgrade system did..

[MikeWa]

Since this is a hydraulic clutch there is really no way adjust the free travel. What you might try is measure the steels thickness. New and old ones as a mix and match. If you have some that are thicker than the others you might be able to take out some space. So out with a thin, in with a thicker to end up with less free travel. Just be careful or you could end up with a clutch that grabs. If this scares you then do not do it.

 

Good Luck

Mike

[MiCarl]

Changing the steels shouldn't affect free travel. By its nature a hydraulic clutch is self adjusting - which is why he can't easily change the lever position relative to the friction zone.