rickardracing Posted January 19, 2015 #1 Posted January 19, 2015 I was wondering if I should upgrade my stock stator in my 07 RSV. I am running the stock accessories, but I also run a gps and satellite radio. Now I am adding Gerbing heated gloves and jacket liner into the mix. Any thoughts or suggestions?
cowpuc Posted January 19, 2015 #2 Posted January 19, 2015 Dont seem like the gps or radio would draw that much extra but the when ya start talking heated clothing,,, might not be a bad idea to upgrade to a higher output stator if they make one!! Higher draw on a lower output stator is hard on the whole system...
Flyinfool Posted January 19, 2015 #3 Posted January 19, 2015 My thoughs....... As Puc mentioned, the radio and GPS are nothing in the grand scheme of things, anything that heats or cools is where the big power demands are. I bought a HO stator and RR for my bike, but then after redoing all of the lighting to LED and HID that lowered the power demands enough that the HO stuff is not needed, yet. If you are going to upgrade the stator to an HO you will also need to upgrade the RR to an HO to realize the full benefit. Just from reading posts over the years, it seems that the HO stator and RR do not live near as long as the OEM parts. Not because of quality issues, just because there is only so much cooling for the windings available so it will run hotter. Hot is bad for life. In the world of energy, you never get anything for free there is always some trade off somewhere. In this case you are getting more power traded for more heat.
ragtop69gs Posted January 19, 2015 #5 Posted January 19, 2015 Randy, I have been using Gerbing gloves and jacket, so far no problems. I have the pants too but have only used them once for a short time just to try them out. I don't run the passing lamps if using the heated gear.
RedRider Posted January 19, 2015 #6 Posted January 19, 2015 Randy, I run heated jacket and gloves, 2 GPSs, radio/XM, charge the phone, all at once. However, I have replaced my headlight and running lights with HID which pull less than the incandescent OEM bulbs. Install a voltage meter for peace of mind. You will likely find running OEM headlamps and running lights along with the heated gear turned all the way up (assume you have a HeatTroller for adjustment), will outstrip your stator at idle. While at full speed, you will be OK. Not sure an upgraded stator will improve the idle issue anyway. Like I mentioned, install a simple volt meter to monitor while you are riding in the cold. RR
cowpuc Posted January 20, 2015 #7 Posted January 20, 2015 Randy, I run heated jacket and gloves, 2 GPSs, radio/XM, charge the phone, all at once. However, I have replaced my headlight and running lights with HID which pull less than the incandescent OEM bulbs. Install a voltage meter for peace of mind. You will likely find running OEM headlamps and running lights along with the heated gear turned all the way up (assume you have a HeatTroller for adjustment), will outstrip your stator at idle. While at full speed, you will be OK. Not sure an upgraded stator will improve the idle issue anyway. Like I mentioned, install a simple volt meter to monitor while you are riding in the cold. RR Not an engineer of any sort but wouldnt an amp meter work better for checking load?
slowrollwv Posted January 20, 2015 #8 Posted January 20, 2015 I don't have the satilight radio but I do run the GPS and heated jacket and gloves. If you are out on the road with the heat on high you wont have any problems but when in town you should turn down the heat setting to low and you should not have a problem. I have been doing it that way on my 03 for about 7 years, no problems yet.
rickardracing Posted January 20, 2015 Author #9 Posted January 20, 2015 Thanks guys. Not sure what I am going to do just yet. I have been thinking about HID lights. I may do this and see what happens. I already have a voltmeter on the bike, but Cowpuc brought up a good point about the amp meter. May have to squeeeeeeeze anoth guage on the dash!
MikeWa Posted January 20, 2015 #10 Posted January 20, 2015 Not an engineer of any sort but wouldnt an amp meter work better for checking load? An amp meter would be more accurate in determining load but is much harder to wire in. At least until somebody comes up with a good inductive unit. Mike
Chaharly Posted January 20, 2015 #11 Posted January 20, 2015 I've read alot of people putting a cut off switch for the carb heaters. From what i remember reading they draw alot of current and are really only for emission's purposes(?).
RedRider Posted January 20, 2015 #12 Posted January 20, 2015 Not an engineer of any sort but wouldnt an amp meter work better for checking load? Puc, technically yes. But since you don't really know how much current is being put out at any given RPM, it will not provide the real information you need. An amp meter is the proverbial 'instructions to build a watch' when you really just need to know what time it is. A voltage meter will provide constant status of the charging system. If the voltage is going down, you are drawing more power than the bike is producing. If it is steady at 14.3V (or full green, or whatever full voltage is on your meter), you are good to go. You know the important information as the battery/system voltage is the measure of a healthy electrical system. RR (am an engineer)
CaptainJoe Posted January 20, 2015 #13 Posted January 20, 2015 (edited) From what I've read you need a voltmeter and a tach. The tach will allow you to keep within a certain RPM range. The higher the RPM's the more output from the stator. If your in a town/city and doing a lot of stops you might have to turn your heat controls down.(low RPM's) I'm going to disconnect/unplug my carb heaters and gain an additional 60 watts.(15 watts per carb)as they're not used below 68deg anyway... will plug reconnect in the Spring. I got this and chart from another site: "The RSV is equipped with 4 electric carb heaters, one in each carb. These heaters draw 15 watts of power each, for a total of 60 watts. They are operated by a thermostatic switch located behind the right side cover. The thermostat is calibrated to turn the heaters on at 68�F and off at 78�F. The purpose of the carb heaters is to eliminate the possibility of carb icing and to ensure proper performance under certain weather conditions. Due to the limited charging system output of the bike, some riders have disconnected the heaters to be able to use that 60 watts of power for other accessories such as heated clothing and gloves or additional lighting. After many miles of running with the heaters disconnected, they have reported no drivability or performance problems. Although it is theoretically possible for carb icing to occur, it is believed to be very unlikely due to the number of miles travelled in all weather conditions by those who have done this mod. For those reluctant to totally disable this system, it is possible to connect a switch inline at the thermostat wiring so that the system could be reactivated with the flip of a switch." Need to find minimum volts required and optimum volts to maintain battery... some meter show this... Max output for a stock Second Gen stator is: 14V 30A @ 5000RPM Edited January 20, 2015 by CaptainJoe
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