LED wiring issues

[baylensman]

Try moving the resister. first don't let it share a ground with the lamps socket as your diagram shows. Second don't have it so close. mine is under the seat and the ground lug goes to a screw on the frame. you only need two resistors one for left and one for right not 4 you don't need front and rear just left and right, the resister is just there to trigger the flasher, as a last resort try with the resistor removed altogether some of the newer LED bulbs are resistance matched (check the packaging)

[dna9656]

Just gotta ask, with all the bulb swapping. You have not by accident stuck a 1156 bulb in a 1157 socket. If so this could cause your cross voltage issue

An 1156 won't go into ta 1157 socket but GOOD THOUGHT!!!! the lugs on the side of a 1157 are offset from each other, an 1156 are parallel and in the same plane.

[dna9656]

Try moving the resister. first don't let it share a ground with the lamps socket as your diagram shows. Second don't have it so close. mine is under the seat and the ground lug goes to a screw on the frame. you only need two resistors one for left and one for right not 4 you don't need front and rear just left and right, the resister is just there to trigger the flasher, as a last resort try with the resistor removed altogether some of the newer LED bulbs are resistance matched (check the packaging)

 

The package doesn't mention that the LEDs have their own resistor, the package does mention that you may need "equalizers" I'm sure this is a reference to a load resistor. Ground is ground is ground. Where its grounded is less important than HOW (clean and tight) it's grounded so long as the ground is sound... hey that rhymes! Thanks for your input!!!

Edited April 24, 2015 by dna9656

[dna9656]

The LEDs I bought are amber...and your right Buyer beware on Ebay when purchasing LEDs! I bought a second pair at the auto parts store the brand name is jamstrait or JamStrait

[Flyinfool]

The LEDs that have the built in resistor are usually labeled for CAN Buss. CAN Buss monitors the amps to the bulb to be able to detect a burned out bulb. So they just build a resistor into the bulb so that the LED will draw the same current as the incandescent to fool the computer. This also totally negates and power savings from the driving light side.

[baylensman]

Ground is ground is ground. Where its grounded is less important than HOW (clean and tight) it's grounded so long as the ground id sound... hey that rhymes! Thanks for your input!!!

 

wiring cars bike and trailers since the 70's. I've seen weirder issues with electrical system! ( Mid 90's fords had to run a jumper ground wire to the front spindle, to quiet radio static) try running a seperate ground to the sockets. If it fixes the issue move the resistor.

[dna9656]

Ground is ground is ground. Where its grounded is less important than HOW (clean and tight) it's grounded so long as the ground is sound... hey that rhymes! Thanks for your input!!!

 

wiring cars bike and trailers since the 70's. I've seen weirder issues with electrical system! ( Mid 90's fords had to run a jumper ground wire to the front spindle, to quiet radio static) try running a separate ground to the sockets. If it fixes the issue move the resistor.

 

Well I know ground is ground is ground except when it isn't....

Edited April 24, 2015 by dna9656

[jasonm.]

I am getting in on this late. But my 30+ years in electronics tells me. Your RESISTOR is in the wrong place. The resistor is to give extra Load for proper timing of the flasher. Loads are to placed in "series". For turn signals > Cut the groung wire and simply put it stright in "series" there and not connected to any + wire. Connecting to any + and - gives you an Almost short circuit. If you need stop "error" tail light symbol from popping up. Put a load resistor on the brake lights hot or ground only IN SERIES to prevent . Electricity > It's magic....

Edited January 19, 2015 by jasonm.

[Flyinfool]

I am getting in on this late. But my 30+ years in electronics tells me. Your RESISTOR is in the wrong place. The resistor is to give extra Load for proper timing of the flasher. Loads are to placed in "series". For turn signals > Cut the groung wire and simply put it stright in "series" there and not connected to any + wire. Connecting to any + and - gives you an Almost short circuit. If you need stop "error" tail light symbol from popping up. Put a load resistor on the brake lights hot or ground only IN SERIES to prevent . Electricity > It's magic....

 

Not in this case.

The resistor is there to increase the amp draw on the circuit, putting a resistor in series with the bulb will only make the bulb dimmer and reduce the amp draw. You need the amp draw to make the flasher circuit work correctly.

 

The problem in this case is with the running lights, the resistor, if it is in the right place, should have no bearing on the running light circuit.

 

Doug

You mentioned earlier that you also bought LEDs for the brake light.

Does the brake / running light in the back work correctly with the LEDs in it?

Did you try putting a bulb from the brake light into the front turn signal just for testing purposes?

[dna9656]

Not in this case.

The resistor is there to increase the amp draw on the circuit, putting a resistor in series with the bulb will only make the bulb dimmer and reduce the amp draw. You need the amp draw to make the flasher circuit work correctly.

 

The problem in this case is with the running lights, the resistor, if it is in the right place, should have no bearing on the running light circuit.

 

Doug

You mentioned earlier that you also bought LEDs for the brake light.

Does the brake / running light in the back work correctly with the LEDs in it?

Did you try putting a bulb from the brake light into the front turn signal just for testing purposes?

 

I mentioned that I did change out the LED Tail/brake light. It does the same freaky thing the others do. It works back there in the tail light just like it's supposed to though.

[dna9656]

Ok, sorry mis-understood issue just running lights side of 1157 led bulbs

 

All I can think of is maybe a mis-alignment of the contacts on the bottom of the bulbs with the contacts in the sockets. Are all the LED bulbs you have from the same manufacturer? Have you electrically tested both contacts on the bulb actually light?

 

I think it's possible too but I have used 3 different LEDs in this socket and they all don't perform as they should. I even added solder to the terminals on the bottom of the LED to make it larger, no joy.

[Flyinfool]

OK review time (cuz I am to lazy to reread the whole thread and figure it out.)

This what I all remember from above.

Correct me where I am making a false assumption.

 

1. You have tried several different LED bulbs in the front turn socket and they all work for turn signal but not running light.

 

2. You have tried the front amber LED bulbs in the known good tail light socket and they work.

 

3. You have tried the stock incandescent bulb and it still does still work for both running and turn.

 

4. The turn signal part of the LED bulb is working correctly.

 

5. There is no light from the LED bulb when in running light mode.

 

6. You have used pieces of wire and tested each of the LED bulbs direct to the battery and they do work.

 

7. You have tested the 2 pins in the socket with a voltmeter and they do have power.

 

8. You have tested the ground of the socket with an ohm meter and it is a good ground.

 

9. You have tried running a temporary wire from the base of the bulb direct to the battery Negative.

[Flyinfool]

Can you give us a link to the ebay bulbs that you bought?

 

Can you post pics of the base of the LED bulbs you have?

 

Did you check to see if the pins are correct on the bulb base?

 

Edited January 19, 2015 by Flyinfool

[dna9656]

Can you give us a link to the ebay bulbs that you bought?

 

Can you post pics of the base of the LED bulbs you have?

 

Did you check to see if the pins are correct on the bulb base?

 

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96460[/ATTACH]

 

I will try this weekend, wouldn't a 1157 based light be made to a ASE standard?

[Flyinfool]

Does China know or care what ASE is?

[Neil86]

I think the reason the LEDs act the way they do is both circuits share the LED (dual intensity) versus dual filament incandescent.

This youtube video explains the issue, where the running light side backfeeds supposedly to the signal flasher.

 

I don't see how the circuit can backfeed through the turn signal switch on a Venture and reach the flasher unit, but it illustrates the backfeed effect on the running light.

Edited January 23, 2015 by Neil86

[Flyinfool]

IF that vid is the case for your bulbs, then all you have to do is add a diode in the flasher wire so that it can not ground through the flasher.

I am guessing that my expensive LED bulbs have the extra diode built in.

[Neil86]

I question it getting back through signal switch to flasher but can see it backfeeding through other bulbs.

 

I would guess the dual intensity use resistance on the run side to dim the intensity....probably the better LED that use separate rows for turn vs running are a better design.

[dna9656]

Does China know or care what ASE is?

 

I get what you're saying Jeff; seems to me if they want to sell their product(s) here meeting standards would be important; LEDs aren't the only automotive lighting products made there that are used in the West, LOTS of incandescent bulbs are made there as well; but yet again they aren't subject to the vagaies LEDs seems to be.

[dna9656]

Well Niel I think you have found EXACTLY what's happening! So when ordering your LEDs you need to call and ask if they will work on older vehicles OR ask if they have a internal diode. I'm betting on the outfits that are more (or) FULLY professional in their product knowlegde for these folks will KNOW what's going on. It seems Jeff paid the big bucks and go the LEDs that work on our bikes. So Jeff what's that site again?

 

[Flyinfool]

Here is the thread from doing my LEDs

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77042

Edited January 30, 2015 by Flyinfool

[dna9656]

Well I talked to superbrightlights.com. tech department. I sent them the youtube shown above that DEMONSTRATES the issue rather well; at least it's clear to me. The Chat guy said "The video didn't help at all" so I knew I was talking to a guy that looks stuff up on the web site and not a tech guy) and they were of no help. They cannot tell you if their bulbs will work correctly OR work like the ones I bought (that work wrong) on E-Bay one set the other I bought at O'Reilly's Auto Parts Store. So take it for what it's worth. My incandescent bulbs work and that tells me there's something different in the LEDS you guys (that haven't had problems) buy VS. the ones I bought. A seemingly premier outfit (judging by the prices there) like superbrightlights.com has no idea how their LEDs are made VS. the competition strikes me as a little weird. Seems to me that presenting yourself as they do you would have the market by the _alls because your product is technically better and you can explain why, therefore justifying the exorbitant prices, then have customers that are educated and don't mind spending the $$$ for something that WORKS; and tell all their friends about it. By the way I sent them an E-mail 2 or 3 days ago (they promise a reply in one or so business days) and have not rec'd a reply. Another bad sign of they really are just sales people and not tech oriented.

So I guess there is no more point in pursuing converting my front running/blinker lights to LEDs, however having LEDs in the rear running light and blinkers seem to work.

Edited January 30, 2015 by dna9656

[videoarizona]

Here is the thread from doing my LEDs

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/watering-hole/77042-lights.html

 

 

Thread didn't work for me......?

[baylensman]

like an earlier post, I had to read then reread, take notes and pull up multiple copies and I'm still not sure.

 

First, did you at one point convert one end of the bike to LED (i.e did the front not the back) and are now adding the other end?

Second, if you did convert in two stage which end was first?

 

If you did in fact convert one end prior you wont need the resistor at the other end also I have an alternate diagram of how to hook up the resistor

Edited January 30, 2015 by baylensman

[dna9656]

I converted the brake/running light first with 2 1157 RED LEDs and the only consequence was the warning indicator on the CMS. I had started on the left side (rider's point of view) by installing the 3 ohm 50 watt resistor right there by the socket. I got bad results, either the running light worked and the blinker didn't or the other way around. I put 1156's on the left side (rear Blinker) and it worked. I don't remember if it worked without the LED installed in front. It worked with the incandescent bulb in there as well.

Edited February 1, 2015 by dna9656